the Fashion Spot - Designers and Collections

Z Spoke (Zac Posen's Diffusion Line)

lucy92 — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:47:38 GMT

It�s Monday morning and Zac Posen is zipping around his TriBeCa studio, laid with a circular piece of Pepto-pink carpet (re-appropriated from his spring 2009 runway show), which exactly matches a color group from his latest collection, complete and neatly hung on four color-coded racks. No, it�s not pre-fall � that�s still on the drawing board in the back � but an entirely new endeavor: Z Spoke, a new lower-priced line launching exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue for spring.

�We did these white shirts, and that�s our bootleg pant,� says Posen, holding up a navy T-shirt. �Opening price point is what, $88?�

Actually, $78. And anyone familiar with Posen�s collection, defined largely by over-the-top eveningwear, might swear he was speaking in tongues. Then again, Z Spoke is a new vocabulary for Posen, and the keyword is sportswear. �I think it�s going to surprise people,� says Posen, who describes the 60-piece range, which is strong on separates such as knits, cotton shirting, blazers and pleated khaki shorts, as �minimalist and utilitarian.� Such adjectives don�t conjure his signature collection, built around red-carpet moments, which he launched at age 21 in 2001.

But Posen insists the lack of everyday clothes on his runways hasn�t been for lack of interest on his part or his retailers. �We�ve had so much pressure from press and retailers to build out our collection into this more American sportswear look in our top line,� he says. �To me, it�s more appropriate to build a whole brand and collection around this price point. Chic sportswear should be at this price point. Designer dresses and cocktail pieces should be at a more expensive price point.�

To that end, Z Spoke, much of which is produced in Asia, retails from $78 for a cotton T-shirt to $675 for a knit dress, while the Zac Posen collection ranges from $900 to $12,000, with custom pieces fetching upwards of $20,000. Z Spoke will launch in 17 Saks doors as well as saks.com and is scheduled for six deliveries per year.

While Posen says a rollout to other retailers is in the long-term plan, for the meantime, it�s all about Saks, which has carried his signature collection since 2004. �Zac has always wanted to do a line that would be Zac Posen but maybe talk to a different girl,� says Ron Frasch, Saks Inc.�s president and chief merchandising officer. �Over the course of the past year, we got together with Zac and Susan [Posen, company chairman and Zac�s mother] and began having conversations around how the world has changed and what some of the needs are that we had as a retailer. The moment was opportune.� Though Frasch declines to release sales projections, he says the forecast is �Significant. We�re looking at this as a significant launch, a significant business relationship and something we believe has significant long-term legs.�

Z Spoke comes at a time when the market has shifted and many of Posen�s fellow young designers � Doo-Ri Chung, Thakoon Panichgul and Richard Chai among them � have recently launched lower-priced collections. Whereas Chung and Chai positioned their secondary lines in the contemporary market, Posen�s new line will sit on Saks� fourth floor, the former bridge department now rebranded as Wear, alongside Tory Burch, Elie Tahari, M Missoni and Ralph Lauren Blue Label. �It�s also about seeing where the opportunity in the market is and seeing where we can grow and build,� says Posen of the collection�s in-store location.

As for the overall aesthetic of Z Spoke, �It�s not Zac-for-less, it�s not the little sister collection at all,� says Posen. �The dresses � that�s something I can do with my eyes closed. This is about a new identity.� His inspiration board is full of downtown imagery such as beaten-up Nike Dunks and a shot of Robert De Niro as Travis Bickle. A palette of neutrals with ample pops of kelly green, pink and red gives the clothes a retro vibe, or an �urban hipster quality� as Posen puts it, adding he could see these styles on a Lower East Side girl.

To wit, while Hollywood has driven much of his designer business, Posen stresses that Z Spoke is not a celebrity brand, but one more attuned to the street. That said, he�s not looking to add to the glut of tough T-shirts and distressed jeans. �There�s a lot of that on the market,� says Posen. �I treat a T-shirt as a T-shirt should be treated. With a lot of love.�

wwd.com

The Galaxy Dress (BEAUTIFUL)

THfan26 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:11:50 GMT

:heart:

Apparently it was designed by the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago fo its "Fast Forward: Inventing the Future" exhibit.

WWD Top 10 Collections: Spring 2010

GivenchyHomme — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 02:27:22 GMT

Alberta Ferretti- Alberta Ferretti went modern Edwardian with a collection that married romance and sophistication.

Balenciaga- Nicolas Ghesquiere returned to his adventurous roots, flaunting rock ’n’ roll bravado and edgy futurism.

Chanel- Karl Lagerfeld celebrated country life with wit, style and the chicest clogs ever to stomp rural grounds.

Donna Karan- Donna Karan spun urbane chic and artsy emotion into a mesmerizing collection.

Jason Wu- Jason Wu leaped forward with a polished lineup inspired by Tim Burton and artist Tara Donovan.

Marc Jacobs :sick: - It was Pierrot meets G.I. Joe meets geisha girl in Marc Jacobs’ audacious collection, full of frills, froth and fantas

Missoni :heart: - Angela Missoni channeled her house’s signature knits into a breathtaking haute-hippie affair.

Oscar De La Renta- Oscar de la Renta went elegant and eclectic with riffs on safari, the Seventies and Goya-era Spain.

Stella McCartney- Floral frocks and sleek tailoring—Stella McCartney worked two sides of chic to strong effect.

Versace! :heart: - Donatella Versace went archival sexy in a feisty, flashy collection with a nod to Tim Burton’s "Alice in Wonderland."

WWD.com

LAURA&MEDNI SS2010 Moscow

baby-ortsa — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 20:34:27 GMT

Chechen fashion designers, Laura and Medni Arzhieva (LAURA&MEDNI) showed their collection at Volvo Fashion Week on 26 October 2009 in Moscow.
Ones that stood out to me:

[All photos in this set from fashiony.ru]

Toga S/S 10

runner — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:09:01 GMT

....

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New Raf Simons website

safiah — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 09:53:58 GMT

Not sure if this is the right place for:

Raf Simons have launched a new website, which was much needed after the old one(it hadnt been updated for about two years). They really put some thought into it and i think came up with a great result. Theyve uploaded their two most recent collections and have got an "archive" and "diary" section which are both pretty interesting and i think quite insightful into the design process... So thumbs up!
I did find the website music quite annoyng at first but i think i really helps creaing a mood for the website. I think theyve really done well...

ive got a few screenshots here
(all images courtesy of raf simons.com)

H&M S/S 2010 Lookbook

lucy92 — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:03:38 GMT

H&M recently had their german press preview for spring. here katrin thormann models the lookbook.

lesmads.de

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Luella Bartley ceases trading

DiamondSea — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:43:32 GMT

Quote:

In a shock announcement made this morning, Luella Bartley has revealed that her Luella fashion label has ceased trading. Club 21, the London-based global licensee has pulled out of the brand, which it has backed since 2003. In a joint statement VSQ Limited, the subsidiary of Club 21, had reluctantly �taken the decision not to invest further in its relationship with Luella Bartley Limited.� Bartley added; �This is a very disappointing situation for everyone involved with the brand�I very much appreciate the support that VSQ has given me, but it is upsetting not to be able to protect jobs in this difficult economic climate. We have a number of options open to us, and are considering these over the coming months.� Bartley won the British Designer of the Year award at the British Fashion Awards last year, and has a large fan base including Alexa Chung and Daisy Lowe, while she is best friends with Katie Grand and Giles Deacon. In a double blow, that signifies how tough the current climate is for designers, Luella's key ready-to-wear producer was also hit by the recession, and the factory closed unexpectedly last month, which has meant that Bartley's Spring 2010 orders will not be fulfilled. Last night we met Luella at Liberty where her and her team have designed the Christmas windows, but ever the professional she gave no inkling that they were making an announcement of this size this morning.

graziadaily.co.uk

Bruno Pieters Launches Candle Collab. with Calming Park

Scott — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:29:46 GMT

Quote:

The packaging is as good as the scent, it comes in a black wrapping like the finest nappa leather, lacquered black glass with a glossy shine and black wax for Bruno Pieters first scented candle. The Amber-Pepper has the woody/leathery scent of patchouli, cedarwood, leather and the amber note of tonka bean and white musk. The candle is available at Calming Park Stockists and Bruno Pieters points of sale. Sounds like a good xmas present for someone.

Later,

Diane

*dianepernet.typepad.com

Naoki Takizawa S/S 10 Tokyo

runner — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 05:52:47 GMT

Thierry Mugler by Rosemary Rodriguez 2009-2010

BerlinRocks — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 23:06:48 GMT

the collection is on their site + an itw of the new art director.

i hadn't captured everything.
sorry but i was surprised there's nothing ....

thierrymugler.com

Which designers/collections should we say are ''avant garde''

Tentacl Ventricl — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 22:34:41 GMT

If I have this in the wrong place mods do of course move it.

When I conducted a search of ''avante garde'' in 'designers and collections' the first 7 pages contained threads who's titles included reference to all the designers/houses mentioned below.

I would like to ask 'Which designers do we think ''should'' be correctly seen as avante garde? Of course the question begs the further question of what we mean by avante garde, what qualifies a designer to be given the tag.

Designers arising on the search whom I felt probably would be generally accepted as ''avante garde'' included Rei Kawakubo (Comme); Viktor&Rolf; Prada; Threeasfour; Margiela; Chalayan - speaking of old of those last two at least.

I think I would include McQueen (perhaps some might disagree) and probably Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh. I think Westwood too (although maybe a place in fashion history as punk prototypist and now eco campaigning isn't quite enough?) And the Antwerp 6.

What of Rodarte, Ghesquiere, Tisci, Theyskeens, Schwab, Bruno Pieters etc?

I think perhaps not Marc Jacobs. Nor Descarnin. Nor Karl, nor John (Galliano). Fabulous as their contribution may have been. Although accepting 'fans' might find that controversial.

Of course I've not raised these names: the search has. I'm wholly willing to accept that my tentative propositions as to who is 'AG' and who isn't might be wrong. I seek to learn.

It may well be that the search drew up some figures merely because of a remark in a thread that the designer in question was hardly avante garde or somesuch. How else would the search have thrown up Victoria Beckham :) Love to you Posh. Of course not all should be AG. That would be bland.

Anyway - I'm interested to learn where people feel the line in the sand is drawn?; Who counts as 'avante garde'?

H! by Henry Holland

laisla — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 17:26:45 GMT

diffusion line aimed at girls in their teens/early twenties. Exclusively sold in Debenhams department stores in the UK from February 2010.

Henry's favourite H! pieces

Henry sells his 'bagazine' QVC style

Tess Giberson S/S 10 Look-Book

Scott — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:19:42 GMT

Quote:

Tess Giberson Returns With A Spring Collection to Covet

By Michelle Christina Larsen

After a three year run as design director at cashmere company TSE, the ever sophisticated Tess Giberson is flying solo once more�and we're welcoming her spring '10 collection with open arms. The trademarks are all present: Classic black and white combos, practical knits paired with softly tailored wovens, and a touch of asymmetry to keep the whole thing interesting. The minimalist spring silhouettes and strong design details make for the perfect blend of in-your-face understatement. Tess never was one for the fashion industry spotlight, but we can bet she'll have a hard time avoiding attention once this collection catches on.

*refinery29.com

Ruffian to design a line for Macys - Threads and Heirs

lucy92 — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 13:50:41 GMT

Macy�s Inc. has enlisted Ruffian design duo Brian Wolk and Claude Morais to create two capsule collections for an upcoming men�s private label line called Threads & Heirs.

It�s a strategy inspired by Target�s Go International guest designer series and marks the first time Macy�s has called upon talent from the high-end women�s fashion arena to shape a private label men�s program.

Threads & Heirs will be produced by LF USA�s Oxford Collections, a subsidiary of Li & Fung Ltd.

Ruffian is on somewhat of a roll, having recently launched its Mise en Scene collection of apparel, hosiery and home products for Anthropologie under a two-year contract. The Macy�s line will be for spring and fall 2010. Wolk and Morais will create 20 or so items a season to give an edge to Threads & Heirs. For the spring 2011 Threads & Heirs collection, Macy�s is expected to tap another guest designer. The Ruffian label will appear along with the Threads & Heirs label on the items Wolk and Morais create.

Macy�s describes Threads & Heirs as a casual, modern and affordable men�s wear label driven by tops, sport jackets, sweaters, knits, wovens and a trim, clean fit. Prices will range from $24 for a T-shirt to $99 for a jacket. The collection will launch at 200 Macy�s stores across the country and on macys.com in March. It�s a major launch for Macy�s, of the magnitude of its recent exclusive Rachel Rachel Roy contemporary brand also launched in 200 doors.

In another twist, Macy�s will house Threads & Heirs on its main floor, adding some contemporary spice to what�s always been a sanctuary for traditional sportswear and key items, like polos.

Kevin Morrissey, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men�s wear at Macy�s, said Threads & Heirs represents an opportunity to give the 20- to 40-year-old customer a better fashion offering that�s versatile enough to wear from the office out to dinner. There will be new goods flowing in eight or nine times a season, providing newness for fashion customers and potentially more frequent turns, Morrissey said. �Brian and Claude are very strong in the women�s market. But they have a really good men�s aesthetic and will bring a little bit of a different flavor to the label.�

�Target has had great success taking higher and more advanced designers to the masses. All of us have been studying this [Target] and looking at what would be the right combinations,� said Durand Guion, Macy�s vice president and men�s fashion director.

Guion credited Cassandra Jones, Macy�s senior buyer of men�s sportswear, for encouraging the store to hook up with Oxford in a Target-like approach. He noted Jones was also instrumental in developing the Threads & Heirs color palette, patterns, fit and the items themselves.

For the Ruffian designers, Threads & Heirs represents a return to men�s wear after a five-and-a-half year absence when they started transforming women�s couture textiles into ties for Barneys New York. The team is very much inspired by Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where they live. �For the last 10 years, Williamsburg has been a hotbed of art culture. It�s very Americana, Fifties and Beat-inspired mixed with punk,� said Wolk. As far as Threads & Heirs, �There�s definitely a strong Americana beat with a Williamsburg aesthetic,� said Wolk. Further describing the capsule collection, he said it�s very layered and includes blazers, short-sleeve plaid button-downs, and knit-woven combinations such as a classic knit polo with a plaid collar. There are also striped dress shirts with white collars, four-pocket cotton jackets with band collars and linen shirts with pocket details and pleating.

�Threads & Heirs embraces a new modern attitude in men�s wear, focused on the grab-and-go guy,� added Jeff Gennette, Macy�s chief merchandising officer. �The debut capsule collection by internationally renowned designers sets the stage for a unique new perspective in contemporary men�s wear.�

wwd.com