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20-08-2004
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purechris's Avatar
 
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Hemming Jeans
Since all the "hot" brands of jeans run long these days, I've had to come up with a way to hem them for my clients. This is usually fairly simple by just moving the original hem up to the right length and reattaching it. Today I had to hem a pair of dark, but still "worn" jeans with a 2 inch original hem that the customer wanted to have duplicated, but I was taking up so much that it couldn't be reattached.


Some of you may find this useful:

To duplicate the worn around the bottom hem I used the "cheese grater" side of a foot file and then used the pumice side to finish it off. It turned out very well and she was thrilled.

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20-08-2004
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I tried a cheese grater on jeans once.. I really couldn't get it to do anything..

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20-08-2004
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robing with sand paper and picking at the threads with a pins works well

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20-08-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by purechris@Aug 20 2004, 11:35 AM
Since all the "hot" brands of jeans run long these days, I've had to come up with a way to hem them for my clients. This is usually fairly simple by just moving the original hem up to the right length and reattaching it. Today I had to hem a pair of dark, but still "worn" jeans with a 2 inch original hem that the customer wanted to have duplicated, but I was taking up so much that it couldn't be reattached.
Some of you may find this useful:

To duplicate the worn around the bottom hem I used the "cheese grater" side of a foot file and then used the pumice side to finish it off. It turned out very well and she was thrilled.
[snapback]339723[/snapback]
nice!..so you don't grate your hands with the cheese grater...

i've also used sandpaper...but the footscrubber is a new one!!!

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20-08-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by purechris@Aug 20 2004, 11:35 AM
To duplicate the worn around the bottom hem I used the "cheese grater" side of a foot file and then used the pumice side to finish it off. It turned out very well and she was thrilled.
[snapback]339723[/snapback]
Thanks for this hint...I hadn't tried these. I've gotten my jeans shortened with the original hem, and places charge $15 as opposed to $5-7 for regular hemming.

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20-08-2004
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Sanding will just damage the fabric and the threads will begin to unravel in like 5 washes. What i do is before i hem my jeans I stretch the fabric out as much as possible (try just pulling the leg opening apart. This will get the denim back to the way it origainally came off the loom) Then make your hem. Now wash and dry 3-5 times and you get that wonderful puckered hem and the puckers will begin to fade also. You cant go wrong because this is basically recreating the manufacturing process.

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20-08-2004
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actually...these days a lot of manufactureres do rub and grate jeans as part of the manufacturing process...depending on the wash or finish of the jean ...

but your idea is a good one too for a less distressed look...

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20-08-2004
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If you want a deistressed look use a very fine sand paper and you should never sand them to the point you want them to be (youll just destroy the fabric ) wand them a little then give them a wash. Repeat if necessary. Also just sand the edges because sanding the thighs or trying to create wiskers is a bad idea....youll never get them to look realistic that way. Ive seen some companies use a rotary wheel covered with what looks like industrial carpet to achieve those effects. This takes the color away slowly it doesnt just fray the fibers.

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20-08-2004
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If you want to replicate the distressed hems try using a Dremel rotary tool ( you can find them at hobby stores) Use a soft polishing bit ( the ones you use to polish copper ) and rub it along the puckered tops of the hem. This will get the color out of the edges but in the groves the color will be left. What happens is basically the same thing that would happen if you dried your jeans over and over...(when the jeans jub against eachother over and over again it takes the color out at certain spots) Most companies wash and dry the jeans like 20-30 times to get this effect.

If you wonder why I know so much I had a roomate in college that now works for the department in levis that creates the premium line and I asked him.

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20-08-2004
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true, true.
I wouldn't try the whisker thing at home either. Actually, I think that's slowly on its way out.
The foot file works so well because you have more control. It's great to get the edges to look worn, or even shredded if that's what you want. Holland is right, stop before you get to where you want it. Washing and wearing will only further it. The pumice side works similar to sand paper, again it's just easier to control.

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20-08-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Holland_MULTIMEDIA*@Aug 20 2004, 04:25 PM
Sanding will just damage the fabric and the threads will begin to unravel in like 5 washes. What i do is before i hem my jeans I stretch the fabric out as much as possible (try just pulling the leg opening apart. This will get the denim back to the way it origainally came off the loom) Then make your hem. Now wash and dry 3-5 times and you get that wonderful puckered hem and the puckers will begin to fade also. You cant go wrong because this is basically recreating the manufacturing process.
[snapback]340178[/snapback]
This is exactly how I hem jeans, be it an alteration job for a client or making a fresh pair for myself. It trues the grain of the fabric and seems to promote the needle slipping through more easily.

It helps to thread your bobbin with the topstitching thread as well as you top thread, use a needle designed especially for topstitching denim, and to hone your needle in the pumice bag of your pincushion after hemming each leg.

Also, I don't like the pre-distressed look. It can never look as good as a pair of jeans that have been worn in, worn out, and beat up through the natural process of being used a lot.

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23-08-2004
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There is a much easier way to hem jeans!!! And when you do it this way, you are using the original hem that the jeans came with, so you don't have to wash them a million times or use cheese graters. I found a website that does a nice job of explaining the process. It even shows you pictures each step of the way.

Click here to check it out

Or copy and paste the link below:
https://www.jammfactory.net/zc/hem-l....aspx?ref=none

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23-08-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by NAT829@Aug 23 2004, 02:44 PM
There is a much easier way to hem jeans!!! And when you do it this way, you are using the original hem that the jeans came with, so you don't have to wash them a million times or use cheese graters. I found a website that does a nice job of explaining the process. It even shows you pictures each step of the way.

Click here to check it out

Or copy and paste the link below:
https://www.jammfactory.net/zc/hem-l....aspx?ref=none
[snapback]342837[/snapback]
That is a very cool site! Thank you NAT829 I have to go home and try that.

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23-08-2004
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the shop where i buy my jeans offers free alterations (and they reattach the original hem) so if there is a price difference in original hemming check with the store where you buy them to see if they offer free alterations on goods purchased there.

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23-08-2004
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i like my jeans un whiskered or faded...

but i constantly have to hem jeans because i'm too damn short... sometimes it works out better for me to buy almost bell bottom type jeans.. i cut half of the "bell" off and they're more bootcut...

It sucks being short.

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