How to Join
the Fashion Spot / the Style Spot / Personal Style / Workshop - DIY - Do it yourself
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
16-12-2008
  16
V.I.P.
 
gius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: homme
Posts: 10,161
what about inside of the pleat?
the part that is not exposed

__________________

  Reply With Quote
 
17-12-2008
  17
Fashion Designer
 
daniellat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mexico
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,020
the thing is that i dont want to stitch it together cause that will mean that the pleat would hang flat like a school uniform skirt, all even pleats on top of another, i just want the effect of pleated paper sort to say. if you pleat a paper sheet, then stretch it a litle, the marks will stay, righ? i want that on fabric.....i know its possible like the purple dress but im not sure if just ironing is enough for it to stay after washing it, do i have to use high temperature like almost burn it for it to stay? i think ill better do it on a piece of fabric and see if it works

  Reply With Quote
17-12-2008
  18
rock-chic
 
Feline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: York/Lincoln, UK
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,170
If you stitch the top of the pleats, it will give you a guide, but pleating = pressing, and I don't think there's any getting away from it

__________________
Empancipate yourself from mental slavery; None but ourselves can free our minds (Bob Marley - Redemption Song)
  Reply With Quote
28-12-2008
  19
V.I.P.
 
gius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: homme
Posts: 10,161
i see what you mean now
sorry though i have no idea

but hey the Delphos dress method you posted earlier, that's the closest for sure
i have pleated poly organza in a binder and it gets a lot of beating.. :p still pleated. i suggest using a respirator and having good air circulation when doing it

__________________

  Reply With Quote
17-06-2009
  20
Fashion Designer
 
daniellat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mexico
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,020
i couldnt just gve up on this and kept on searching. Ive found the arashi shibori method can be pretty useful for this but as ive never tried it, and know you have gius, maybe you can share with us?

So far i ve only found this pole wrapping thing, and it seems like it works but im not sure what to do if i only want to do vertical pleats? what about a long lets say 2 yards of fabric?


entwinements
as you can see the pleats are really tiny and pretty close to the fortuny technique
she wrapped it diagonally to have pleats on different directions but the lenght of the fabric afects the finishing? i mean the longer the fabric the thicker it gets ont he pole, maybe the string wont work? and finally the dye has anything to do with it? i mean i dont care about the color or discharge water or watever, i just want to know if ths works to preserve the pleats just by boiling them? is it the same working with silk like above or any other fabrics?

  Reply With Quote
20-06-2009
  21
V.I.P.
 
gius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: homme
Posts: 10,161
i think it's just her photo that makes the pleats look fine.. the thread she's using is fairly thick. a resulting pleat/ridge might be a little less than 0.5cm in total, with that kind of fabric
i'd like to try to make a really fine one too

so you want to put vertical pleats on a 2 yard long fabric
you can definitely do that but make sure to keep the fabric even on the pole.
like if you were to wrap the second layer of fabric accidentally on the bias, your pleats will change direction and so will the first layer of fabric (it will have a crisscross pattern)

don't need to dye it.
make sure you have very good ventilation (even if you smell nothing.)
you remove the string only after it is bone dry. air dry is best


we met an artist in class, who used a special silk from japan
gunma silk... seemed expensive
it has a natural gum that makes it stiff. and instead of boiling the silk, she just washes it and lets it air dry. it forms the pleats that way too, but it's dry clean only afterwards.
she also invented some way to make it dry faster--
she put the fabric in a sort of box with good air circulation... i can't remember exactly, but it didn't seem complicated.

so, if you want your project easy to care for, while permanent, synthetic is best
i've only tried polyester but not acetate or nylon , others...



--

so through this whole thread daniellat, you were more interested in making a texture that's like pleats?
or were you also interested in making an ordinary pleated skirt permanent?

premierschoolwear.com

__________________


Last edited by gius; 14-10-2009 at 02:33 AM.
  Reply With Quote
20-06-2009
  22
Fashion Designer
 
daniellat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mexico
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,020
i had my doubts about that method too. i dont think the pleats would end up even and straigt. but i just cant get it out of my head now lol

i want it to add texture tot he fabric, these examples in particular

amazon
flickr- oliviarose

  Reply With Quote
20-06-2009
  23
V.I.P.
 
gius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: homme
Posts: 10,161
those are pretty :p maybe you could use that pleating board you posted on the 1st page.. and then steam the fabric. i saw a video of issey miyake doing that with his fabrics

you're right also,-- if you were to layer the fabric on the pole for the 2 yrds, it would gradually get thicker and the pleats would end up bigger
and yes the pleats are uneven.. i guess you could be a little more careful.. using something like chiffon? and a finer thread and moving the threads one by one to make the pleats all the same size

i thought it might look nice though. the unevenness. Especially for dyeing, you get a very nice spontaneous texture

__________________

  Reply With Quote
19-07-2009
  24
unspecified
 
Petit Lucille's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Buenos Aires
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,199
gius, i made this thread in order to find out if there is a way to make a pleated permanent without an industrial machine. given that you can dye a fabric at home with natural vegetables and no chemical product, there could be something natural like potatoe juice or something like that that would make a pleat permanent. if you make that skirt, you would have to iron it after you washed it to keep the pleats in place.
that system you said, with the silk's own natural gum would be a case of what i was searching for.
nevertheless, natural silk is so expensive, i'm sure it's hard to find. so if there are other ways, i'm listening:p

__________________
sell crazy some place else, we're all stocked up here.

http://pilchero.wordpress.com/ - Very Personal Style
  Reply With Quote
19-07-2009
  25
front row
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: US
Gender: femme
Posts: 232
Fortuny used (of course the best silk) and held his pleats with a special glue. The ingredients of said glue were elaborated upon (as much as is known anyway) in the book "Fortuny" by Anne-Marie Deschodt as well as his method of hand pleating his wife and assistants would employ. It's been some years since I've read that book, so the info is sketchy - sorry.

__________________
Beauty is a far greater recommendation than any letter of introduction - Aristotle

  Reply With Quote
19-07-2009
  26
V.I.P.
 
gius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: homme
Posts: 10,161
another one who does really fine pleats is Alix Gres
from what i've read she does each fold by hand..

__________________


Last edited by gius; 19-07-2009 at 11:26 PM.
  Reply With Quote
08-06-2012
  27
Fashion Designer
 
daniellat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mexico
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,020
Few years gone by and I still can't find a pleating machine. It seems like the only way is to do it by hand. Apparently, every designer outsource it to Lognon in Paris


vivaladaisy


Last edited by daniellat; 26-01-2013 at 05:21 PM. Reason: typo
  Reply With Quote
22-01-2013
  28
windowshopping
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: New York
Gender: homme
Posts: 1
If you're still looking for a pleater board, Mr. Pleater makes them in a few different sizes.

Mr. Pleater

  Reply With Quote
11-02-2013
  29
windowshopping
 
Jila's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Gender: femme
Posts: 8
you can do it by hand if you really need to. it just requires a very hot iron, a sewing gauge (or a non-melting ruler), and lots of time/ patience. if you're using it for something where the wrong side isn't visible, i would fuse it as well.

but if you're going for delicate, soft, and frequent pleats (like in the lucy liu picture), i would just get it professionally done. you don't need to outsource it to a different continent, just find one locally, or wherever the nearest industrial city is located. you'll probably find something. i know there are quite a few here in toronto. some require a minimum yardage (approx. 3 yards), but i know at least one place will pleat even a small chunk of fabric, if thats all you need pleated.

  Reply With Quote
23-03-2013
  30
fashion elite
 
Nymphaea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Europe
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,722
^Thanks Jila!
I want to pleat velvets, but so far I haven't found the ideal method for straight pleats. A pleater board doesn't work with velvets unfortunately. I also tried fusible interfacing. Has anyone other ideas or pointers? TIA!

__________________
welcome to the inner workings of my mind
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
fabric, handpleat
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:41 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.