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16-01-2008
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gius, if you have a chart of standard body measurements and divide the value each measurement increases by between sizing, by the amount of seams, you should be able to grade your pattern up to the desired size.

does that make sense?

i can try and explain in more detail if you need it, i have old notes lying around somewhere.

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16-01-2008
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hi skot! :p i think you're telling me to figure out the amount a size increases to get to the next size?

the thing is, the person who created the instructions says all i need to do is scale it up 2 inches for a good fit

i spoke with someone at my college today and she told me those "rays" coming out of the apex in my diagram have nothing to do with pattern grading, so we can just disregard that :p it's just a way of enlarging the pattern... she said that when she studied patternmaking they worked on small pieces of paper (like A4) because it would be such a waste to use life-size paper...and only after the pattern had been drawn out did they enlarge it (for example A x4 = B / C x4 = D) to get to a life-size pattern

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16-01-2008
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Oh here's the website to it
(and this link has a little intro to it)

Here's what she writes:
Quote:
11. The next step is where we depart from the tailor's method.
If you've ever taken a flat-pattern class, you've probably drafted a basic bodice to measure. What you don't figure out until later is that you really can't do much with this block that you spent so much time on. The block is way too tight to be comfortable. Every time you draft from it, you have to fiddle to get enough wearing ease, let alone design ease. Here's the secret: Grade it up. One size will do nicely.


I don't know why I didn't figure this out a long time ago. I graded mine up 2" and the dummy blouse fit better than anything I've ever made. It was the most comfortable piece of clothing I can ever remember wearing. Later, I graded up my blouse another 2" because I wanted a looser, more casual fit. If you're making vests or coats rather than blouses, dresses, or tops, also grade up the block another time. In other words, you'd grade it up 4" rather than 2". Also, it may be a good investment to buy the grading book I mentioned in the first post because the book will cover a tremendous variety of sizes and styling for men, women and children. I don't sell it but you can find a link to Handford's grading book in the left sidebar.
Hehe, now that I've read that, I see what you're saying...
Find the amount between the sizes
So maybe I can just forget about this '2 inches'

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16-01-2008
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Yeah, sorry bud, that's going to be nowhere near accurate. Enlarging and grading are two different things. I've cut down/enlarged a few patterns, you just have to know where to slash the pattern at. Usually I slice on the neck, between the shoulder/arm hole and the neck hole, and then slash straight down. If you need to add an inch, you spread the pattern out 1/4 inch, form 4 sides that adds to 1 inch. Got that?

When you're adding ease, if you want two inches of ease, you add 1/2 to each piece. Understand that if you add it to the sides, your arm hole gets bigger. Add it to center front and the neck line expands.

I'll do this in photoshop real quick. Until then, here's a thread on making a sturdier form:

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums...ape-50176.html

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16-01-2008
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gius, wow, live response!

yeah, thats basically what i meant but it really is a tricky situation because there are no standard measurements to begin with. rather its personal measurements.

therefore i suggest you follow the instructions...

in response to your earlier post, i assume you would add the 2 inches to all measurements. otherwise some parts will be extremely tight and difficult to move in (depending on fabric, etc). however adding a general amount everywhere may leave you with a rather boxy shape, with little fit...then again, i havent tried it, so i'm actually curious to know the outcome.

trial and error with varying measurements may be the best way to achieve your desired fit...


Last edited by skot4mc; 16-01-2008 at 02:32 AM.
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16-01-2008
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thanks !^
i'll add those measurements then and report back !
and thanks for the advice too, fbm ..i see what you mean by dividing the amounts up around the body to get to one inch, two inch..
i'll just have to do some guessing, haha

as for the paper tape dress form, i tried it last year with duct tape (there is another set of instructions, instead using duct tape) and the forms seems to keep changing size... and it didn't hold very well, it's soft
i heard that the paper one will be hard and have a jagged surface, which would alter the end pattern too... well who knows, could try again :p

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16-01-2008
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See, slice down the middle and spread 1/4 of your total ease. 4 inches total ease? 1 inch each side. 2 inch total ease? 1/2" each side. Slicing this way retains the original neck and arm hole shapes.



Also, your arm hole won't work, it's too high up. the bottom of the arm hole would is the side, so from that point you should go down at least 2 inches and out an inch, to give your clothes room to breath. This isn't part of the overall ease, it's just so you can move your arms without ripping out stitches. Also, add 1/4" to the top of the shoulder, this kind of caps the shoulder bone.



I believe you owe me 2 more beers.

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Last edited by fourboltmain; 16-01-2008 at 02:55 AM.
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16-01-2008
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by the end of this i might not have anymore I.O.U.s left to give lol

I'm assuming this is what you mean for an overall ease of 2 inches:
1/2" front right
1/2" front left
1/2" back right
1/2" back left
equals 2 inches

Quote:
Originally Posted by fourboltmain
also, add 1/4" to the top of the shoulder, this kind of caps the shoulder bone.
And this part I'm guessing you mean lengthen the shoulder
add this, so that it will reach over/by the edge of the end of the shoulder (connecting to the arm)

I have class in the morning, so I'm going to leave it here for now
I'll try to make time to do this after class
Thanks!

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16-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
I'm assuming this is what you mean for an overall ease of 2 inches:
...equals 2 inches
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
...so that it will reach over/by the edge of the end of the shoulder (connecting to the arm)
And yes. Do it in muslin first. Shrink your fabric first.

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22-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
Hello!

I found this patternmaking technique on fashion-incubator
It's wrapping yourself in saran wrap, marking the seam lines, etc. and using those as patterns


It says in the instructions I should scale the pattern up 2 inches (for ease, etc.). Do I have to add 2 inches to every measurement, like shoulder-length, etc.

No, do not add two every measurement or else your saran wrap form would be pointless. Why are you adding ease? is this for a sloper? if so, don't add anything. Because a sloper is your true measurements that you trace off and then create patterns from it. If you were to add ease, i would add ease to the circumference of the pattern (ie the chest, waist) by dividing the measurement in half, (in your case, 2 in) and add to the front and back. Add the ease to the side seams ( add 1/2" to each side on the front and back patterns and it will equal 2").

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Last edited by gius; 21-02-2008 at 01:09 AM. Reason: deleted quoted pictures
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22-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
by the end of this i might not have anymore I.O.U.s left to give lol

I'm assuming this is what you mean for an overall ease of 2 inches:
1/2" front right
1/2" front left
1/2" back right
1/2" back left
equals 2 inches


And this part I'm guessing you mean lengthen the shoulder
add this, so that it will reach over/by the edge of the end of the shoulder (connecting to the arm)

I have class in the morning, so I'm going to leave it here for now
I'll try to make time to do this after class
Thanks!

This will lengthen the shoulder line which throws off the whole garment and adds more adjustments that you need to do.

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21-02-2008
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Thanks for the help guys
So I just wanted to say that I did finish the bodice last week and it fits

I did increase it 2 inches
but I forgot to lower the sleevehole on one side (as fourboltmain suggested)
It ended up being okay-- there was enough room and I didn't need it after all...

Also, it seems this happens a lot
one side will always be huge compared to the other side
there will be all this extra fabric..floating.. creating one big ripple
and one side will fit perfectly
So all I did was copy the side that fit perfect and voilą

Now I need to find time for the sleeves

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23-02-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
Thanks for the help guys
So I just wanted to say that I did finish the bodice last week and it fits

I did increase it 2 inches
but I forgot to lower the sleevehole on one side (as fourboltmain suggested)
It ended up being okay-- there was enough room and I didn't need it after all...

Also, it seems this happens a lot
one side will always be huge compared to the other side
there will be all this extra fabric..floating.. creating one big ripple
and one side will fit perfectly
So all I did was copy the side that fit perfect and voilą

Now I need to find time for the sleeves
Are you drafting a separate right and left pattern for a symmetrical garment? Good luck on the sleeves!

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23-02-2008
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^In the beginning, I was
I thought it might end up fitting better
Seems to be unnecessary now

And I just finished the sleeves last night

Now I'm just thinking what to make... :p Thanks !

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24-02-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
^In the beginning, I was
I thought it might end up fitting better
Seems to be unnecessary now

And I just finished the sleeves last night

Now I'm just thinking what to make... :p Thanks !
Yeah,if it is symmetrical, you just need to draft the right side and cut two in fabric, only asymmetrical garments need a left and right side.

Be sure to post your creation when you're done!

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