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23-09-2006
  31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ingvildel
I never did. I think the manual is more for those who teach other people the program, becase they have to know everything.

That is not true.
No one knows everything about photoshop, not even those who created it.

I teach it and i cannot for sure say that i know everything, wish i did though! :p But believe me that each time i find something new, and by saying something new i mean that there are a lot of really small things that the average user will rarely know/need about them.

I once had a student that told me he went to a Photoshop conference and one of the creators told the people who were assisting that even she did not know everything about Photoshop.

Photoshop is a world, and even in a 100 hour course you couldn´t teach everything.

But imo, with every software you learn, most of the things will be learnt with the usage of the programme and not only with classes.

My advise is to use the Help of the Photoshop, because it´s really good for common answers to your questions.

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03-06-2007
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sounds splendid! i'm currently googling a lot on how to make blah digital pix look like they came from medium format (mamiya or the like), any ideas?

(edit: is that the kind of manipulating you meant, photoshop and such?)

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Last edited by Sweets; 03-06-2007 at 08:01 PM.
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04-06-2007
  33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweets View Post
sounds splendid! i'm currently googling a lot on how to make blah digital pix look like they came from medium format (mamiya or the like), any ideas?

(edit: is that the kind of manipulating you meant, photoshop and such?)
about changin a pic to medium format am not so sure though I know that increasing the dpi and reducing on noise may help if you plan to print it

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05-06-2007
  34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweets View Post
i'm currently googling a lot on how to make blah digital pix look like they came from medium format (mamiya or the like), any ideas?
I like taking pixelated shots, like 1600 ISO or so and then ADDING grain in Photoshop to make it look like old film. The trick is to get it black and white, no greys. Then separate the lows, mids and highs.

'But wait FBM! You said no greys!'

I did! Your greys are now determined by density, if you get my drift. Then I separate them with the magic wand and add all kinds of harsh grain to the darkest, then less to the mids, and a little less to the highs. Then SMACK! You flatten that b!tch out and you have just stuck vector info (the grain, believe it or not) onto a raster file (the bitmap) that actually fools the eye into thinking you have resolution in the disguise of grain.

If you're talking about putting putting those nifty frames around the shots with the film ID, like 'ILFORD HP5 >> 5 >>', add an outside stroke in black and then go back and find a font that looks close. I find Swiss 721 works best: http://www.fontpool.com/fonts/bitstream/swiss_721.html

And, to get that Hasselblad effect, just cut the corners on the shots. I've been taping off the corners on my Holgas just to peeve the Hassie fans.

Of course, the best way to get the mid format look is to use one and scan your images in for tweaking. You can get an RB67 for $300 on fLeabay!

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19-06-2007
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Questions for using Adobe Photoshop
This is from the Flair June 2007 issue, and the effect seems to coloring over the original photograph in photoshop while leaving some parts untouched. See more images here. Are there any tutorials out there teaching this kind of effect? Thanks for any help!





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19-06-2007
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I Honestly don't think that there is a way to convert a picture into a sketch with shades and pencil marks like that..I just think that they took photos and wherever the model was the they would have it as a drawing..and as you over lap the images together, you just erase the model and have the sketch show..

just a guess..although I do remember this style of drawing..in something like Numero with Kate Moss..

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19-06-2007
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Yes, with my high experience with photoshop, I can guarantee you that there is no way to do that.

What they did was they hand-drew the photos, then cut and paste the actual photos on the drawing. So they are actually two different layers overlapping each other.

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19-06-2007
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Try Corel Painter. I'm willing to gamble on this one. REALLY memory heavy program though. You can pull it off in Photoshop, but it's be labor intensive. It looks like a sketch scanned in and then colorized with a custom brush or two or ten.

http://www.corel.com/servlet/Content.../1166553885783

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20-06-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allius View Post

What they did was they hand-drew the photos, then cut and paste the actual photos on the drawing. So they are actually two different layers overlapping each other.
I see what you mean now. Thanks for the replies

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02-08-2007
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That's such a gorgeous series, love the idea too. Must have been very time consuming.

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07-08-2007
  41
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i think they used illustrator, i think it can work but it sure takes a lot of time to do. it seems like they draw on the original pic and then erased it leaving just the sketch. ive done it before but never with that much detail to it.

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07-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allius View Post
Yes, with my high experience with photoshop, I can guarantee you that there is no way to do that.

What they did was they hand-drew the photos, then cut and paste the actual photos on the drawing. So they are actually two different layers overlapping each other.
no offense, but with high experience you'd know that you can actually draw or paint in photoshop as well. with my 11 year design background I'd say that you can mimic pretty much any kind of hand made effect. illustrator is used more often for these kinds of things (painting, drawing), but photoshop can be used as well, for example with a tablet. I'd be willing to bet those were made in illustrator or an equivalent program, not hand drawn. they were of course based on the original photograph and then merged with it to make the half and half effect.

just as an example, and this is a really terrible one, I drew this with a tablet about 7 years ago. I havent owned a drawing tablet in a long time so this is all I could dig up:



the compression is terrible etc etc but just to show as an example.

regarding the original question, theres no easy way to do it. even though you can redraw a photograph, it has to be done by hand.

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08-08-2007
  43
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[IMG]http://images3.*************/thumbs/c2/36680a49951fb079d1bc26abab67c8c2.th.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://images5.*************/thumbs/12/0f1f01397d110a92d600110e334cc212.th.jpg[/IMG]
(first pic, edited by me, second one by yellow-stock @ deviantart)

I am pretty sure, as (almost) anyone else here that the picture in your example isnt 100 % PS... but you can do something similar in PS (and elements).
As the in the picture above...
(and then work with illustrative and photographic layers)

1. First you need a picture
(I found mine at deviantart stock photos, by yellow-stock. all credits to her her photos are amazing and wonderful to work with)

2. make the photo in two layers

3. Set the new layer in black and white

4. Invert the colours in the new layer

5. Change the blending-mode to (color-dodge or linear-doge. try wich one that works best with your pic and style )

4. Apply the filter gaussian blur and make the pic look like a pencilskecth

5. Use dodge and burn to make lines (pencil strokes ) where you want them

6. There is several ways on adding colour. In my example above I have just made a new layer of my orginal photo, and the change the layer opactiy (some enchance adjustments)

You can also ad colour by paint the colour you want on a new layer and make it more or less transperent...

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30-09-2007
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You could just use tracing paper and put it up against the window
the old fashioned way...

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05-11-2007
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new question...

i'm duplicating some watercolour sketches of mine...
i used to make comics with a bunch of people back in high school and we'd publish the stories ourselves-- we would scan everything in 300 DPI and then convert everything to halftone (so that the printers could print it at a better quality i guess?)
i'm hoping to do the same for my watercolours

i know how to do halftone
but what would be the best 'frequency'? or size of dots
any suggestions?

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