07-04-2013 | |
windowshopping
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yes! theres double sided leather tape you can buy to tape seams down (either taping them open or taping them to one side. even when i topstitch, i like taping down the seams to keep them in place
this is the type of tape i use, either in 3/8" or 1/4". if you see some in a different color roll, it doesnt matter. theyre all clear, just the paper its encased in are various colors http://bergentailorsupply.com/scotch...athertape.aspx some other tools are important too. not sure if youre using a domestic or industrial sewing machine, but getting a teflon foot is really imperative to get the leather to not stick to your presser foot. a rubber (or poly) mallet and/or a leather roller is nice too for pressing down seams. make sure when you sew, you dont backtack. you dont want to put more holes in the leather than necessary. instead, to close seams, pull one of the last outer threads toward the inside of the fabric and tie a double not to secure the seam. also, when youre fusing (and you should be fusing all of your leather unless its something really meant to stretch, because leather is practically all on the bias) make sure you use a completely dry iron and a pressing cloth on top. no steam! and do you have any bigger pictures of the coat? |
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07-04-2013 | |
windowshopping
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ah okay, the little bit in the armpit area is called a gusset. its added into sleeves that fit really close to the arm. if you dont have it in styles like these, youre not going to be able to move your arms as easily and/orr it would result in your entire garment shifting up whenever you lift your arms, which is not pretty.
heres a pretty decent looking blog post of someone drafting a gusset. http://sewingforlife.wordpress.com/2...or-the-sleeve/ if you google how to sew one in, it looks like there are a lot of examples as well and as for fusing, im not absolutely sure if theres a specific type of fusing for leather. i got mine at an actual leather supply store and just asked them for fusing and they gave me this grey nonwoven fusing. and if you dont want to fuse, try to make sure all your pieces are on the sturdier parts of the hide (if youre using an actual hide). the thing about using leather is that some parts of the animal are stretchier than others. like the center back of the hide (where the spine would be) is the least stretchy and the strongest, and closest to the edges where the stomach would be (most animals generally get cut down the center) is the most stretchy. so if you do use a hide and end up having to use parts close to the edge, i would still probably fuse it (even with a lightweight fuse at least). tbh, the only time i wouldnt fuse are for things like gloves where you actually need to prestretch it before sewing. |
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08-04-2013 | |
Geometric Discharge
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I'm pretty obsessed with kimono sleeves (sleeves without seams on the shoulder) and have pattern cut them a lot.
The gusset must be cut on the bias as so it has that slight stretch and give when one lifts one's arm. It's a diamond shape and each side of the diamond must the same length. A gusset is only needed on tighter-fitting kimono sleeves, larger kimono sleeves (as in the case of their Japanese namesake) probably wouldn't bother with one. The garment is then slashed under the arm at a specific point on the side seam, the slashes must be the same length as the sides of the gusset and must point towards the centre of the neck. When it's sewn in (usually they are easiest to sew in by pivoting when sewing up the side seams/underarm seam) it will be invisible when the arms are down. Despite me telling you this it's probably best to look up a visual guide because it is tricky and it has to be in the right place. ![]() Other alternatives are to just literally have the armpit of the garment open - Lagerfeld's Spring 2011 collection for Fendi was mostly kimono sleeves and he described in an interview how the 'Butterfly sleeve' was possible because of the armpit being open. The collection actually cleverly incorporates ways to make a tight underarm into the designs, like having the sleeve and bodice almost completely separate, only held together with a strap. |
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13-05-2013 | |
V.I.P.
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