1867-1946 Jeanne Lanvin

[BaroqueRockstar]

lanvin dress from 1924
picasaweb

[DosViolines]

Thanks for posting, wish I could give you karma

Dress, ca. 1924
House of Lanvin (French, founded 1890), Couture House; Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946),
Designer French
silk, wool; a) L. at center back: 42 ¼ in. (107.3 cm).
Gift of Mrs. Carter Marshall Braxton, 1980 (1980.92.1a–c)

Seeking in both the new cylindrical silhouettes and in her characteristic robes de style to adorn flat planes with new designs associated with Art Deco, Lanvin developed a repertoire of motifs at once modern and decorative. Black cutouts are stitched by hand to a contrasting white dress. The design is even further integrated into the dress by the stitching's being hidden under the edge of the appliqué, thus making it appear a pieced rather than an applied patterning.

metmuseum.org

[DosViolines]

Robe de style, 1924–25
Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)
Ivory and black silk taffeta trimmed with pink and black silk velvet rosettes
Gift of Mrs. W. R. Grace, 1956 (C.I.56.49.9)

Robe de style, 1924–25
Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)
Ivory and black silk taffeta trimmed with pink and black silk velvet rosettes
Gift of Mrs. William B. Given Jr., 1979 (1979.122.1)

High art as well as haute couture have often been erroneously associated with the sovereign disposition. But haute couture has also been conditioned on the relationship between couture ideas and the will of the client. A client seeking a demure profile might ask for a particular décolletage treatment, while another might demand an alternative. A designer would allow variation only in modules, but a couture garment often becomes a synergy of client and couturier.

metmuseum.org

[DosViolines]

Evening ensemble, ca. 1934
Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)
Black silk taffeta with metal plaques
Gift of Miriam W. Coletti, 1993 (1993.423.1a,b)

Lanvin's evening bolero resembles the tubular construction of the kimono and its sleeves. However, Lanvin modifies her simulation by radically cropping the kimono's parts. The three-diamond shape (the diamonds are superimposed on one another) composed of metal plaques is an allusion to the mon, a Japanese clan insignia.

metmuseum.org

[ApertureRomance]

So beautiful , I love Lanvin. I read something recently about the making of the logo , it was a drawing of Jeanne and her daughter drawn by an illustrator.

[DosViolines]

From nytimes.com:

Philippe Chancel/Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris
The bathroom of Jeanne Lanvin’s apartment, designed by Armand Albert Rateau in the 1920’s, on display at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Two weeks from today , the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, with its 10 period rooms, will reopen in Paris after a 10-year...

...One of the most anticipated spaces is a private suite, comprising the boudoir, bedroom and bathroom of Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946), the founder of France’s oldest couture house and creator of perfumes like Arpège and My Sin.

Lanvin opened her couture business in 1889. In 1920 she expanded into interior design, creating Lanvin Decoration, and hired the Paris Art Deco designer Armand Albert Rateau to run it. It was Mr. Rateau who decorated her grand town house on Rue Barbet-de-Jouy, in the Seventh District, which she bought for herself and her daughter Marguerite. The suite is from this house, and was donated by a Lanvin relative.

The bathroom shows how much Rateau’s style was influenced by Pompeii. It has marble-covered walls, a floor of geometric mosaics in black and beige marble, a hand-carved Italian marble sink, and bronze fixtures that were given a patina to make them look ancient. It is a bit cryptlike and devoid of any decoration apart from a few bottles of Arpège, which Rateau also designed.

At a time when pieces of Rateau bronze furniture are selling for nearly $1 million, there should be great interest in the Lanvin period rooms.

[DosViolines]

thefrock.com

[Kushie]

I love Lanvin, Alber Elbaz's work is amazing! The history seems a little boring but I'll manage to catch up.

[Whitelinen]

Thank you for the material DosViolines. The detailing of the first piece is brilliant, and the deep purple dress makes me like purple. These designs are inspiring and ooze class. The cape would work better as a veil though, but that might be because I am not a fan of capes. I don't like her apartment that much, but the bathroom looks interesting.

[unspoiledbird]

Everything posted is just so beautiful even though I never gave Lanvin much credit before, it's steadily becoming one of the labels I look out for the most, and this thread only gives me more reason to do so

[DosViolines]

thefrock.com

[DosViolines]

thefrock.com

[Kushie]

my goodness those dresses are so b-e-a-u-t-i-u-f-u-l
excuse my spelling

[BaroqueRockstar]

WOW! that blue dress... so gorgeous!

[DosViolines]

doylenewyork

Jeanne Lanvin Embellished Robe de Style
French, early 1920s

Of black silk taffeta, the upper portion of the sleeveless bodice of black silk chiffon embroidered overall with discs of silver beads centered by a rhinestone, extending to crested taffeta midriff flap, V-neckline front and back and armscyes with band of similar embroidery, faux rectangular brooch motif at center front with beaded fringe, similar at back with faux emeralds, dropped waistline self piped with self bow and streamers at back, the billowing skirt ruched at side hips and embroidered with a central row of eight large circular geometric motifs in silver bugle beads, sequins, seed beads, clear and green rhinestones, the scalloped hem with picot edged tulle trim overlaid with a scalloped deep band of saw toothed and floral patterned black lace, size 8, no label.

Taffeta fragile and torn in various places, lining shattered.
See Fashion, The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute, pp.422-423.