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29-09-2006
  16
etre soi-meme
 
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the first designer of the 21rst century and one of my all time faves, have seen parts of his private garment collection in Venice some years ago.

even though he was not a 'fashion designer' he had the attitude which changed the way women were dressing for ever

thanks for the thread Dos V

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29-09-2006
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Vestido (Delphos)
Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, Mariano Conjunto de raso de seda plisada color violeta. El perímetro de las sisas, borde inferior y costuras laterales está decorado con un cordoncillo de seda con aplicación de cuentas de cristal de Murano. Cinturón de raso de seda color violeta decorado con motivos vegetales de hojas y ramas estarcidas en oro. Etiqueta: "FORTUNY DIS". 1910-1949

museodeltraje.mcu.es

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29-09-2006
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A Fortuny pleated gown worn by Lilian Gish.


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29-09-2006
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Fortuny Black Silk Gauze Batwing Tunic
Italian, 1920s
The edges stenciled in a gray pomegranate design, trimmed with frosted white striated venetian glass beads, one size, no label.
Very good condition, some detached bead trim.
See de Osma, Fortuny: His Life and His Work, p.214, fig.2 and Deschodt and Poli, Fortuny, p.91 and p.107 for similar.
Estimate $2,000-3,000


doylenewyork.com
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29-09-2006
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Fortuny Black Velvet Stenciled Coat
Italian, circa 1923
The motif inspired by XIVth century Lucchese textile, green stenciled velvet rouleau trim, surplice closure with loop and self covered buttons, gold silk lining, size 8, silk faille label: Mariano Fortuny/Venise.
Excellent condition, relined.

Estimate $3,500-4,500


doylenewyork.com
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29-09-2006
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Fortuny Blue Silk Velvet Tunic
Italian, 1920s
Self rouleaux laced neckline, set-in long sleeve, ogival medallion stencils in gold Greek embroidery motif, khaki china silk lining, brown striated venetian bead trim at cuffs and laces, size 6, silk faille label: Mariano Fortuny/Venise.
Very good condition, belt trailers possibly added at later date, rouleaux worn.

Estimate $10,000-12,000


doylenewyork.com
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Fortuny Black Velvet Stenciled Jacket
Italian, circa 1930
The short modified kimono with metallic gold lace inspired motif, tie neckline, beige silk faille lining, size 8, labeled: Mariano Fortuny/Venise.
Very good condition.

See de Osma, Mariano Fortuny: His Life and His Work, p.134.
Estimate $3,500-4,500


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29-09-2006
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Evening Gown "DELPHOS"

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949), Venice About 1930. Atlas Silk, Murano Beads, Silk Cord, Length 145 cm

mkg-hamburg.de
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29-09-2006
  24
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Thanks for posting the Delfos dress, Dos ..

And Le, I cant believe you've actually seen one ... you lucky .. lucky ... stylist! LOL!

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In 1907, Fortuny created his most spectacular Art Nouveau dress: the"Delphos robe" in pleated silk, was made famous by theatrical legends Isadora Duncan and Sarah Bernhardt. Designed in a revolutionary shape, inspired by ancient Grecian gown, the long dresses were simple and loose, artistic and functional; their borders were usually finished with Venetian colored glass beads, which were both ornamental and functional.

senses-artnouveau.com
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Fortuny Copper Silk Satin Delphos Gown
Italian, 1920s
Sleeveless with striped terra cotta and ochre Murano pate de verre beads on silk cord at sides and shoulder, neckline with silk cord drawstring decorated with single bead, interior linen tape stamped: Fortuny, and cotton label inscribed: Pleated X4825.
Very good condition, one small hole at hem and one near neckline, one button missing from neckline cord.
Estimate $5,000-7,000


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07-10-2006
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Fortuny Delphos tea gown, c.1920-1930

Lady Bonham-Carter: Everyone went to Fortuny then. I think everyone I knew had a Fortuny dress.

Mariano Fortuny first created his signature Delphos gown in 1907, repeating the design with subtle changes until his death in 1949. The sleeveless version appeared in the 1920s. The gown is based on the pleated linen chitons worn by Greek maidens 2500 years ago and seen today on Delphic Greek sculpture. The Fortuny Delphos gown has preserved the poetry of line of the Greek robe.

Fortuny used a thin silk satin more finely pleated than anything ever seen in costume. His famous hand-pleating method has never been successfully duplicated. The resulting garment is incredibly soft and liquid, molding to the curves of the body. The gold stenciled belt picks up the color of the Venetian beads.

The feather-weight dress is weighted on the shoulders and sides with strings of striated Venetian glass beads. It comes with a hand-stenciled belt, which is signed "Fortuny DSE". The dress is marked "Fortuny Déposé/Made in Italy" on the center back seam. To keep the pleats in place, the dress should be stored twisted like a skein of yarn.

From the early 1920s, Fortuny's timeless clothing has been treasured by the cultured elite. The novelist Marcel Proust described Fortuny as "faithfully antique but powerfully original." In the section of Remembrance of Things Past entitled The Captive, Fortuny constitutes an entire leitmotiv. He is the only character in all of Proust's work who retains a real-life identity, a testimony to Fortuny's cultural importance.

Proust wrote: "Of all the indoor and outdoor gowns that Mme de Guermantes wore, those which seemed most to respond to a definite intention, to be endowed with a special significance, were the garments made by Fortuny...Is it their historical character or the fact that each one is unique that gives them so special a significance that the pose of the woman wearing one while she waits for you to appear assumes an exceptional importance?"

Actresses and top models like Julie Christie, Lauren Hutton, Geraldine Chaplin, and Tina Chow have been devoted to Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo. The original Fortuny Delphos gown can rarely be found today outside of major collections. The reason is obvious. Not only is the Delphos an extraordinarily beautiful collectible of proven value, but it represents the ultimate in high-style glamour for the woman who has the figure and status to wear one.

Fortuny designs have endured as timeless works of art. His creations transcend the rigid dictates of fashion. A Fortuny design, an unconditional statement of beauty, nevertheless adapts itself to the wearer and the occasion. Although known today primarily as a clothing and textile designer, Fortuny was also a painter, etcher, sculptor, photographer, lighting engineer, set designer, theatre director, inventor and architect.

In the field of design, he personified the Renaissance man who could do it all. As a young man, he stated, "Art is my life's aim." His work is a living testament to that ideal. He rightly occupies a place of honor in the pantheon of great design.

The condition is excellent.

The length is 57" from the shoulder to the hem. The Delphos is shown on a mannequin with a 35" bust and 36" hip. The pleats expand to fit a variety of sizes.

vintagetextile.com
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Last edited by DosViolines; 07-10-2006 at 10:52 AM.
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Fortuny stenciled velvet short jacket, c.1930

"Faithfully antique but powerfully original..." Marcel Proust

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo created some of the most remarkable textiles of the 20th century. In his brilliant, multifarious output, Fortuny often drew inspiration from antique textiles. He did not simply copy the old designs; he reinterpreted them to achieve an aesthetic ideal. His famous atelier was located in Venice, which had been an important center of the Renaissance textile trade with the Orient. The Venetian aesthetic tradition was thus a rich source of ideas from ancient Persian and Islamic cultures.

The "Lace" pattern of this jacket shows that Fortuny's inspiration often came from several sources. By a kind aesthetic dialectic (to coin a term), Fortuny synthesized these ideas to create a new and different design. Here, Fortuny brilliantly melds blocks based on Islamic tiles with borders based on 17th century lace.

The pattern is hand stenciled in many layers of subtly changing gold pigment, reproducing the Renaissance fresco effect. The ground cloth of teal silk velvet drapes beautifully. The jacket is totally lined with apricot silk faille. The jacket comes with an unattached matching belt. You can wear the jacket either belted or loose. The belt ends are finished with metallic bronze tassels.

Fortuny's methods of hand dyeing and hand stenciling ensure that no two garments are alike. Last year I sold the same style jacket in blue velvet with silvery stenciling. That jacket was quite different from this one, since each one was created by hand.

Fortuny designs have endured as timeless works of art. His creations transcend the rigid dictates of fashion. A Fortuny design, an unconditional statement of beauty, nevertheless adapts itself to the wearer and the occasion. This superb jacket was originally meant to be worn over a Fortuny Delphos tea gown, but the jacket can be equally dramatic over pants and a sweater.

Although known today primarily as a textile designer, Fortuny was also a painter, etcher, sculptor, photographer, lighting engineer, set designer, theatre director, inventor and architect. In the field of design, he personified the Renaissance man who could do it all.

In the graphic arts, Fortuny's love and obsession was color in all its intricate subtlety. He made himself an expert in the manufacture, mixing, and application to textiles of dyes (especially from natural sources). There has never been a greater creator of color masterpieces in textile than Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo. As a young man, he stated, "Art is my life's aim." His work is a living testament to his fidelity to that ideal.

The condition is almost excellent. The outside is absolutely perfect. There are several small holes in the lining at the center back—see the bottom picture.

The jacket has a circumference of 64" and is 28" long from the shoulder to the hem.

vintagetextile.com
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Continued...
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