[DosViolines]

fitnyc.edu

Quote:

Lucien Lelong (1889-1958) was the last in a long line of couturiers who were masters of every aspect of haute couture. Unlike today's couturiers who are primarily fashion designers, Lelong combined a keen business sense with a refined eye for modern design. He hand-picked designers such as Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy and developed their talents in order to realize his vision of the fashionable woman. For nearly thirty years, the house of Lucien Lelong epitomized Parisian elegance, with a clientele at the crossroads of international high society and the arts. Lelong's beautiful second wife, Natalie Paley -- an exiled Russian princess turned fashion model and Hollywood actress -- typified the ideal Lelong client. Others included "Baba" de Faucigny-Lucinge, the Duchess of Windsor and Marlene Dietrich. While master-minding the design and presentation of his collections, Lelong expanded his business in innovative ways and took a leading role in his profession. In 1934 he introduced Lucien Lelong Éditions, the first couture ready-to-wear line. His fashion empire included a perfume division, Parfums Lelong, which exists to this day. As President of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne during the German Occupation, Lelong was most responsible for preventing the relocation of the haute couture to Berlin, saving the jobs of thousands of skilled workers. 1. Lucien Lelong Peignoir Silk crêpe chiffon, satin and lace France, c. 1938 Gift of Sylvia Slifka 2. Lucien Lelong Dinner dress Silk crepe-backed satin France, c. 1937 The Museum at FIT

wikipedia.org

Quote:

Lucien Lelong (1889-1958) was a French fashion designer. He trained at the Hautes Etudes de Commerciales, Paris and opened his own business in the late 1910s. He was well-known for beautiful fabrics and understated dresses and evening wear. Although he was not a particularly innovative designer as far as clothes go he was a pioneer of ready-to-wear and sold ready-made dresses which needed little adjustment to wear at his Paris boutique. These principal customers: Marie Duhamel, Colette, Jeanne Ternisien, duchesse de la Rochefoucauld, Greta Garbo... In the late 1930s he designed tight-waisted, full-skirted dresses reminiscent of the upcoming New Look of Dior. Married and divorced twice, his second wife was Princess Natalie Paley (1905-1991), a daughter of Grand Duke Paul Alexandrovich of Russia and his morganatic wife, Olga Karnova Lelong died of a heart attack after the failure of his new collection which prefigured (& some say was stolen totally by Yve St Laurent & used as the basis for Laurent's famous Peasant Look of the mid 1970's). There's some basis for this rumor in that Christian Dior (in whose fashion house St Laurent apprenticed)had originally apprenticed at Lucien Lelong's fashion house. The perfume line issued from the House of Lelong was often marketed in very well designed bottles (some by Lalique)& very clever packaging with stunning graphics.

[DosViolines]

vintagetextile

Quote:

House of Lelong beaded evening cape, c.1914 Early Lelong designs are particularly difficult to find intact. This one was custom-ordered by B. Altman. I love the way the exotic magenta lining adds depth to the graphic black and white composition. The cape is an important piece from the nascent period of the House of Lelong. The cape is fashioned from a luxurious mix of velvet, satin, and lace. The lower portion is black satin; the upper portion is ivory velvet covered with a cape-collar of black Chantilly lace. The cape is totally lined with heavenly magenta satin and is cut in panels, allowing a glimpse of the brilliantly colored lining. The style features slits for the arms and an attractive draped lower back. The upper portion of the cape is embellished with an exotic beaded pattern of fans and flowers. The pattern includes a lively textural mix of opaque white glass beads, faux pearls, and padded metallic thread embroidery. The neckline scarf, heavily weighted to stay in place, is the only closure. The scarf ends with an elaborate beaded tassel. The cape has two labels. One is the B. Altman store label and the other is a handwritten Lelong et Fried label—see the pictures below. Born in Paris in 1889, Lucien Lelong grew up in the couture business. In 1886 his father, A.E. Lelong, founded a textile house, where Lucien worked, while aspiring to a career in fashion design. Although Lucien trained for a business career (1911-1913), he was always drawn to the craft and art of garment design. He designed his first collection for A.E. Lelong in 1907, according to History of Fashion in the 20th Century by Delandres and Muller. In the pre-WWI period, the Lelong family business diversified into high fashion, selling gowns, coats, and lingerie. Lucien was forced to delay the opening of his own salon until 1918 due to his service in the French Army, 1914-1917, when he was severely wounded. He was one of the first seven to be awarded the Croix de Guerre for his heroism. Lucien Lelong became one of the most important and influential couturiers of the 20th century. Throughout his long career, he was justly celebrated for brilliant creativity in the use of fabric color and texture. Lelong was also known for his business innovation and acumen. As significant as his innovations were in the couture industry, I feel that they have perhaps unfairly overshadowed the sober and refined elegance of his style as a designer. Out of an abundance of caution, my attribution is to the "House of Lelong" because we cannot be certain this is the work of the future great couturier, Lucien Lelong. When it comes to early haute couture, we are sometimes left in the realm of educated guesswork, based on research and the style of the piece. The cape itself is in the style seen just before WWI. The Fried on the label was probably Theodore Fried, a draftsman/designer who worked with A.E. Lelong in the prewar years. We can only conjecture what input the young Lucien Lelong had into the design of this cape, although the inspired used of fabric color and texture points to the young Lucien. More important than the label is the piece itself, a magnificent example of pre-WWI couture. The House of Lucien Lelong achieved great cachet among the wealthy and fashionable in the interwar years. From 1937 to 1947, he was President of the Chamber Syndicate de la Couture Parisienne. During the German occupation of Paris, Lelong was most responsible for preventing the breakup and relocation of the Parisian couture industry to Berlin and Vienna, preserving modern couture as we know it today. Lelong understood how to spot talent, to train and nurture it. I find it hard to conceive of so much sheer design firepower assembled under one roof. During 1944-45 at Maison Lelong, Hubert de Givenchy was an apprentice, while the two assistant designers were Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain. I worked as a patternmaker for several designers on Seventh Avenue. I cannot imagine helping the apprentice Givenchy in the morning; cutting the toiles under the supervision of assistant designers Dior and Balmain in the afternoon; and shopping for fabric with head designer Lucien Lelong in the evening. He was always described by Dior, Balmain, and Givenchy as their mentor. The condition is almost excellent. The cape is unaltered and all original with no structural damage. The only issue is slight unevenness in the black satin color. One size fits all. The cape is 49" long at the center back.

[DosViolines]

mccord-museum.qc.ca

Dress
Lucien Lelong
1927, 20th century

[DosViolines]

tirocchi.stg.brown.edu

Quote:

Lucien Lelong created a simple coat from a fabulous modernist textile. A velvet with long and short pile has been discharge printed in a bright modernist color scheme with swirls reminiscent of paintings by Italian futurist artists. Lucien Lelong French, 1889-1958 Coat, 1927 Silk; voided velvet, fur collar

[DosViolines]

mccord-museum.qc.ca

Quote:

Dress Lucien Lelong 1928, 20th century Fibre: silk (satin, chiffon, embroidery); glass (diamante); metal (gilt thread); ewn This gown is representative of the extensive and rich collection of 20th-century couture clothing belonging to the McCord. The evening dress was designed by French couturier Lucien Lelong, one of the important couture names of the 1920s, whose reputation was based on his designs for clothes that were both elegant and feminine. Worn by Mrs. F. Cleveland Morgan, wife of the well-known Montreal museum benefactor, the gown was probably purchased by her on a European trip in the fall of 1928. In the latest style of the times, the dress shows a fashionable lengthening of the back hemline through the addition of broad streamers.

[DosViolines]

tirocchi.stg.brown.edu

Dress and Slip
ca. 1930
Silk; plain weave,
embroidered with paillettes

[DosViolines]

vintagetextile

Lucien Lelong silk tulle evening gown with original silk slip, c.1930. Label: "Lucien Lelong/16/Avenue Matignon-Paris."

[DosViolines]

museums.leics.gov.uk

Quote:

Summer Afternoon Dress, 1938 (around) Lucien Lelong was one of the most influential designers working in the couture houses of Paris during the 1920s and 1930s. During the occupation of Paris (1940-1944), he was President of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture and was responsible for negotiations with the German authorities to enable the fashion system to continue throughout the war. This evening dress is made of tiers of white silk organza. The bodice is arranged in horizontal rows of tiny vertical pleats which pass around the body. The full sleeves are supported by chiffon inner sleeves and are decorated with silk poppies, cornflowers and marguerites and embroidery in shades of green and yellow. Although unlabelled, this dress probably comes from the last collection designed by Lelong before the occupation of Paris in 1940.

[buddleja]

thank you these dresses are gorgeous

[BerlinRocks]

i didn't even know him... thank you for this!

[DosViolines]

My pleasure

I only knew the name up until a few weeks ago

vam.ac.uk

Quote:

Dress 1946 Silk velvet and silk taffeta The fashion house of Lucien Lelong made extremely elegant clothes. This all-black evening dress with its trumpet line is a good example. It was made in 1946. The body of the dress is made of glossy silk velvet. A flared skirt of silk taffeta is joined to it at knee level. The dress once had a halter neck strap. This has been removed to create a more alluring strapless neckline.

[brian]

thanks so much for starting this thread... i have admired him for years... his work is some of the most stunning i've ever seen!

[liberty33r1b]

great thread!!

[gius]

lovely embroideries
and that red flower they left the edges frayed... looks very nice

[Scott]

all of this is so heavenly. thanks DV

i don't know if i ever heard of him. i may have for a moment in the past. but all the worth while to become accustomed because it is really beautiful.