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22-06-2007
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1902-1959 Marcel Rochas
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Marcel Rochas was born in Paris, France in 1902. He opened his house in 1924. He was encouraged by Jean Cocteau, Christian Berard and Paul POIRET. He was a strong, influential designer with an international reputation, who anticipated many of the most prominent fashion trends of the 20th century.

During the 30's, Rochas started to create black and white dresses that featured a white collar. His creative innovations often featured a strong shoulder line. In 1933, his collection featured wide shoulders, a style generally attributed to SCHIAPARELLI. In 1931, Marcel ROCHAS opened his fashion house to the 12 Matignon avenue. His customers are composed, amongst other things, stars Hollywood such as Carole Lombard, Marlène Dietrich and among others. For the actress Mae West, Marcel Rochas have created a black wasp-waisted corset of Chantilly. It appeared that the shapes of the woman have inspired him for the creation of the bottle of perfume « FEMME ».

In 1935 the great fashion illustrator Cecil Beaton drew two Rochas gowns for Vogue. They show the typical thirties hem length at around mid calf, and the slinky silhouette so typical of the decade. He tried to show in his sketches, the luxurious fabrics and exquisite design which the house of Rochas was known for. Marcel favoured hourglass silhouettes and foreshadowed the new look of Dior, by showing longer skirts in 1941. He showed bustiers in 1943.

As the 20th century progressed, corsets got less restrictive. However in the 1940's a very small waist was again "de rigeur" to wear the fashions such as Dior's New Look. In 1945 Marcel Rochas introduced a long strapless brassierre/girdle which enclosed the hips. It was a foundation garment that was to train figures for a decade. It was in Europe and the United States, called the "Waspie". This was based on the very small waist a Wasp has. In France where it was introduced, this name was not used, it was called a "guepiere".

In the 50's, he transposed casual trousers into the context of women's suiting - another Rochas novelty.

Rochas often worked with flower-patterned fabrics. He promoted the three-quarter-length coat and was one of the first designers to feature pockets in skirts. Rochas also specialized in separates and accessories, which he sold from a boutique in his salon.

Marcel Rochas died in 1955
For more biographical information, see http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com.../Marcel+Rochas, http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/P...as-Marcel.html andhttp://www.designerhistory.com/histo...on/rochas.html.

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Velvet evening gown with striped taffeta bodice and bustle, c.1930-1940. Label: "Marcel Rochas/Paris."


vintagetextile.com

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22-06-2007
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Novelty sunglasses - Red ceramic on green plastic with gray glass
France, 1939.


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22-06-2007
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Dig those sunglasses .....
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Marcel Rochas Ivory Strapless Dress
French, 1951
Gazar woven in broad rows of lace patterned ivory chenille, eight-gore umbrella fold skirt with scalloped hem, black velvet ribbon crossover at bodice and waistband, black velvet formal gloves, size 6, labeled: Marcel Rochas/Paris/4323.
For an interesting reworking that references this design by current Rochas designer, Olivier Theyskens, see Vogue.com/Rochas Autumn/Winter 2004/5 No. 31 runway photograph.
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22-06-2007
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Quote:
Marcel Rochas Emerald Velvet Gown
French, 1950/51
The slender mermaid silhouette with squared bias godet center rear hem, strapless bodice with extravagant iridescent green silk taffeta stole affixed at left, draped across bust to free fall through self knot and down right, a pair of pinch pleats at waistline, emerald green silk faille lining, matching velvet formal gloves, size 4, labeled: Marcel Rochas/Paris/4325.
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27-07-2008
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Quote:
Rochas Lame Brocade Cocktail Dress
Nuit de Chine, French, 1951
Midnight blue changeante, the overdress referencing a cheongsam with stylized mandarin collar slit to waistline at front with self ribbon lacing, elbow length sleeve with sculptural cuff, skirt with waist high vent each side, slim navy silk velvet underskirt with kick pleat either side at back, labeled: Marcel Rochas/Paris.
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29-05-2009
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Quote:
A woman modelling an evening dress designed by Marcel Rochas.

Location: Paris, France
Date taken: February 1951
Photographer: Nina Leen
Source: images.google.com via Life.com

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29-05-2009
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Quote:
Marcel Rochas (C) having lunch in between his two fashion shows.

Location: Paris, France
Date taken: February 1951
Photographer: Nina Leen
Source: images.google.com via Life.com

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29-05-2009
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That last picture is great, what atmosphere!

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29-05-2009
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Scans from Couture: The Great Fashion Designers by Caroline Rennolds Milbank



Caption from the first photo:
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Evening coat embroidered with abstract motif, 1936
Scanned by Flyme2themoon

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31-05-2009
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Quote:
Fashion Show at Maison De Couture Marcel Rochas
DATE PHOTOGRAPHED: 1950
LOCATION: Paris, France
PHOTOGRAPHER: Sylvia Salmi
Source: Corbis.com

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31-05-2009
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Quote:
"Lisa in Mermaid Dress by Marcel Rochas" by Irving Penn.
Source: happynews.com

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29-03-2010
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February 1951: Marcel Rochas (C) having lunch in between his two fashion shows.
In this photo: Marcel Rochas
Photo: Nina Leen/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

life.com

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29-03-2010
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The Tao of Hélène
By Danielle Stein
July 2008

“I have no rules,” Hélène Rochas told a W reporter in 1977, when asked about her fashion philosophy. “It’s not that thought out.”

Amusingly, however, the Parisian grande dame spent the rest of the interview listing her sartorial dos and don’ts. “You need less rather than more to be elegant now,” she declared. “Being well dressed…does not mean going to a great couturier.” She continued: “In the day, practical things.... The exotic is for summer and evening.”

Rochas learned to be authoritative early in life. She was just 18 when she married couturier Marcel Rochas and became the face of his fashion house, and not quite 30 when he died and she took over the label, using it to launch a hugely successful perfume business. The company eventually sold cosmetics as well, so naturally she had plenty of beauty maxims, instructing W readers in 1987 to “create a personal atmosphere, one to refine yourself in” and declaring, “I don’t like creams.... In the summer, it’s fruit, like crushed grapes, to nourish my face.”

As a society fixture with a palatial hôtel particulier in the 7th arrondissement, she was also qualified to expound on the rules of entertaining. “A dinner for six has to be for very close friends,” she told W in 1981, before describing a perfect menu (eggs en cocotte with truffles, lamb with baby vegetables, salad and cheese) and explaining why her chef’s sorbets were beyond par (“They’re not heavy, because we use only fruit and sugar, never milk”). But even worse than a fattening sorbet, in Rochas’s opinion, was a woman who refused to age gracefully. “I’m against the idea of dressing young—that shows fear,” she said in 1977, lamenting “when you see a woman with long, loose hair, a slender silhouette, and she turns and you see she no longer has the face for it.” Given her proclivity for making such pronouncements, Rochas’s overarching rule for living might come as a surprise: “Women,” W quoted her as saying in 1984, “should have a fragile air, even if they are not.”


Hélène Rochas in Paris, 1987.

wmagazine.com
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29-03-2010
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Marcel Rochas

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1. Marcel Rochas's dressmakers(suits), French dressmaker. Paris, on 1946. © Roger-Viollet
2. Marcel Rochas (1902-1955), French top designer and his wife Hélène who'll take his succession. Paris, Christmas party Rochas, january 1951. © Lipnitzki / Roger-Viollet
3. Marcel Rochas (1902-1955), French top designer and his wife Hélène who'll take his succession. Paris, Christmas party Rochas, january 1951.

parisenimages.fr

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