How to Join
the Fashion Spot / All Things Vintage / History of Style : a remembrance of things past
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
12-08-2006
  31
V.I.P.
 
MulletProof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 24,662
the dresses on garbo are simply beautiful.

nice thread dosviolines!.

__________________
Metal teeth of carousels.
  Reply With Quote
 
12-08-2006
  32
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
Greta Garbo in "The Single Standard"

In the first picture you can see Adrian himself posing with his muse

Click the second and third picture for larger versions.


style.com; ebay.com (2x)

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
12-08-2006
  33
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
Some more from "Letty Lynton"

Click images for larger version.






operagloves.com (2x); joancrawfordbest.com (3x)

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
12-08-2006
  34
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
source: web2.unt.edu

Quote:


Accession Number:
1986.011.015


Designer:
Gilbert Adrian


Object Date:
c. 1945


Label:
No Label


Description:
Ensemble consisting of black crepe skirt and jacket of black velvet embellished with gold braid and cabochon.

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
12-08-2006
  35
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
From "Designing Women: Modernism in Hollywood Costume", from jetsetmodern.com

You can read the entire article here.

Quote:

For all the fun Hollywood likes to poke at itself about overdressing actresses in movies like A Star Is Born, the key to designing for stars was found to be simplicity. Movie stardom of the classic era was a cult of personality, and the less interfering with the projection of a personality, the better. Individuality, at least at the star level, was carefully nurtured; the wardrobes of Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, and Greta Garbo at M-G-M were at least as different as the ladies themselves, even though the same designer, Adrian (Gilbert Adrian Rosenberg) designed for all three.


In 1925, Gilbert Adrian designed for his second movie, The Eagle. He was already employing design tactics for which he would become famous, such as the use of asymmetrical appliques and a certain disdain for historical accuracy; the film was set in 1820 (1). Another costume for the movie shows an even heavier 1920's influence (2); the bandeau headdress with its Deco design of pearls was historically inaccurate, but few fans knew that. Some of Adrian's best work was done for Joan Crawford's films; his most famous dress for her was for 1932's Letty Lynton. The visual compression seen at the waistline and hipline are released in bursts of organdie ruffles at shoulder and hem (3). As the 1930's continued, Adrian continued to make use of high-contrast black and white (4). Adrian's most magnificent wardrobe is probably that for 1938's Marie Antoinette. Star Norma Shearer wears the designer's trademark detailing at her bustline, and his asymmetrical draping on her skirts (5). By the later 1930's, improvements in film technology made it possible for Adrian to use subtler effects, such as crystal-beaded fringe (6). The detail would been hard to photograph ten years previously.

Meeting the design goals of movie costuming- individuality, perfection of appearance, and fashionability- became a highly specialized field. Nothing was too much trouble. Stars were carefully assessed by costume departments, their photographic flaws found and corrected by whatever means were necessary. Every star had a "problem" area- or two, or three, or more- and Hollywood eventually found solutions for them all. Joan Crawford had short legs, and very wide, almost masculine shoulders. Adrian lengthened her legs by moving the waistline of her costumes slightly above her real one, and made brilliant use of her shoulders by exaggerating their width further with padding. This gave Crawford a more powerful look onscreen, giving her figure an attribute that had previously been considered "masculine"- the inverted triangle, wide at the shoulders, narrow at the hips.

Norma Shearer presented a different set of challenges for Adrian; her legs, by her own admission, were not her best feature. She also had a fairly stocky build, with a squarish torso. The legs were easy- Adrian covered them whenever possible, and Shearer was not often photographed full-figure if she was wearing short skirts. The waist was a bit trickier; corsetry helped for certain costumes. But the stressed shoulder line popularized by Crawford, and peplums (a pleated, skirt-like detail at the hip) were the usual solution, exaggerating both Shearer's shoulders and hips, narrowing the waist by comparison. Garbo was not difficult for Adrian to dress; she had no real figure problems aside from her height, greater than that of many male co-stars, and the only thing to do about that was to stand the fellows on boxes.

Adrian was able to dress anything from period epics to Art Deco romances to platoons of Munchkins for The Wizard of Oz. He evolved a very specific design vocabulary that is consistent across his oeuvre. First, he understood better than almost anyone else that the close-up is the most important shot in movie-making, which means that costumes are rarely seen full-length for more than a few seconds on-screen. Adrian's designs always have their greatest visual interest above the waist for this reason. He seldom did striking or intricate neckline details, feeling that they distracted from the face; he generally kept the emphasis on lapels, for which he had a seemingly endless store of inventiveness, or on shaped or applied details across the bust.

He also was one of the first to apply strong diagonals and asymmetry to screen costume- attributes rare in fashion prior to his time. Adrian often gave his ladies rakishly tilted hats that made a pleasing contrast to a symmetrically-balanced suit or dress, even in period costumes where it was not historically correct to do so. His greatest contribution, though, was in his adroit use of whites and blacks in costuming; when he began designing, film stocks and lighting had a hard time rendering subtly different shades. This made strong contrast essential, and Adrian became famous for his endless variations on the theme. A white flannel sports suit might have a black blouse with white polka dots, or a black wool dress for a secretary role might have an off-center white neckline and cuffs, as Joan Crawford's did in Grand Hotel. And Adrian was one of the leading exponents of the quintessential Thirties bias cut, a tricky technique that cut all panels of a dress at a 45-degree angle to the warp and weft of its fabric, instead of cutting straight along the grain. The result was a costume that draped and clung to every curve of stars like Jean Harlow, whose appeal and career owed much to the designer.

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
12-08-2006
  36
V.I.P.
 
Bluestar07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,577
Subscribing to this thread!!

  Reply With Quote
07-10-2006
  37
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
Adrian Monkey Print Silk Dress
American, 1940s, Of ivory lightweight silk printed with vertical pattern of monkeys swinging from leafy branches.
Sold for $12,925

doylenewyork.com

Attached Images
File Type: jpg monkeyvx1.jpg (95.7 KB, 3 views)

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
07-10-2006
  38
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
Adrian custom designed straw hat with gros-grain ribbon trim, c.1940. Label: "Adrian Custom."

vintagetextile.com
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6021xpv8.jpg (30.6 KB, 1 views)

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
07-10-2006
  39
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
Adrian beaded/sequined crepe evening gown with back streamers, c.1942. Labels: "Adrian Original" and "The French Shops/Filene's/Boston."

vintagetextile.com


Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6107xwd1.jpg (40.1 KB, 4 views)

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
30-10-2006
  40
clever ain't wise
 
iluvjeisa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 13,848
What dream dresses he made Probably my favourite costume movie ever - Camille 1936. (gonemovies.com)

The only quote by him from imdb:
"When the glamour goes for Garbo, it goes for me as well." - the reason Adrian gave for leaving MGM.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ActGarboCamille.jpg (68.4 KB, 10 views)


Last edited by iluvjeisa; 01-11-2006 at 10:45 AM.
  Reply With Quote
31-10-2006
  41
backstage pass
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: homme
Posts: 834
thanks for the thread, i adore these

  Reply With Quote
31-10-2006
  42
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 5,773
Beautiful dresses

__________________
"Because of all sorts of cloth have their motions, as well as Bodies, it must needs that they differ in themselves." -Lomazzo
  Reply With Quote
02-11-2006
  43
backstage pass
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 681
my boss wont stop talking about this guy, glad ive finally seen his work!

  Reply With Quote
24-11-2006
  44
far from home...
 
DosViolines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,253
^ I assume you work in the fashion industry

Adrian Maroon Halter Day Dress
American, 1940s
The bodice of faille with fan pleated ruffle descending from shoulders around to low U back, slender crepe skirt with faille fan and box pleated deep hem, tucked stitched waistband, size 6, labeled: Adrian Original.
Excellent condition.

Estimate $1,800-2,500


doylenewyork

__________________
And I am nothing of a builder, but here I dreamt I was an architect
And I built this balustrade to keep you home, to keep you safe from the outside world
  Reply With Quote
24-11-2006
  45
....ITMFA....
 
Luxury's Lap's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mpls, MN, US Horoscope: Leo
Gender: femme
Posts: 1,630
DosViolines!!! How did I not know about this wonderful thread!

Just a bit on Adrian and Garbo that I already posted in Garbo's thread...so if anyone wanted more Adrian costumes, feel free to peruse the Garbo thread (the more recent pages are better about citing the movie than the earlier pages)

Adrian designed Garbo's on-screen wardrobe starting with her silent 1928 film A Woman of Affairs up until her last film 1941's Two-Faced Woman...

Pictured: Garbo chatting with Adrian (in Adrian-designed wear) on the set of her 1929 silent Wild Orchids...

(ebay)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Garbo with Adrian (ebay) (WO).jpg (22.6 KB, 7 views)

__________________
“It is absurd to divide people into good & bad. People are either charming or tedious.”
— Oscar Wilde

www.flickr.com/jstreitdesign/
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
adrian
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:04 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.