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21-06-2007
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1909-2002 Pauline Trigère
Her bio and some examples of her work: http://fashionsfinest.fuzzylizzie.com/trigere.html

Quote:
Pauline Trigère (1909 - 2002) was a French-born fashion designer, known for her crisp, tailored cuts and innovative ideas.

The daughter of a tailor, Trigère was able to operate a sewing machine by age 10 and often assisted her dressmaker mother. Shortly after leaving school, Pauline was employed as a trainee cutter at Martial et Armand in the Place Vendome, Paris. While there, she met American buyer Adele Simpson, who told her about the wonders of the New York fashion world. In 1927, aged 25, she moved to New York where she first found work at Ben Gerschel and later became assistant designer at Hattie Carnegie.

In 1942, Trigère decided to open her own fashion house, which was managed by her brother Robert. Her first small collection of 12 custom-made dresses was bought by a group of US department store executives and by 1945, Trigère was a respected New York label. She began producing ready-to-wear lines during the late 1940s. In the 1950s she started to produce costume jewelry to accompany her outfits, like many other fashion houses at the time. Her clientele included many famous women such as the Duchess of Windsor, actress Claudette Colbert and singer Lena Horne. Trigère is also known for designing Patricia Neal's sophisticated wardrobe in "Breakfast at Tiffany's".


Quote:
1960 Silk cocktail dress.


c. 1956 - britannica.com . sandiegohistory.org

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21-06-2007
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On the right: Evening Dress, Coat and Sketch Book by Pauline Trigere, French/American, Fall 1969. Bronze brocade and brown tweed -
Gift of Pauline Trigere. (On the left is by Tina Lesser, American, 1961.


dept.kent.edu

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21-06-2007
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Quote:
1965 Vogue.


operagloves.com

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21-06-2007
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Another bio and images of her work. http://www.designerhistory.com/histo...n/trigere.html. And here is an obituary from the Associated Press.

Quote:
Fashion Designer Trigere Dies at 93

NEW YORK - Fashion designer Pauline Trigere, known for her impeccable and imaginative tailoring of women's suits and coats, has died. She was 93. Trigere died Wednesday night at her Manhattan home, according to her daughter-in-law, Melanie Radley.

"There is nobody quite like her," said Valerie Steele, acting director of the Fashion Institute of Technology's museum. "Her coats were magnificent. Her dresses were very chic. They were designed with a kind of deceptive simplicity that belied the kind of intelligence that went into making them." Trigere lectured often at FIT and left students with mouths agape as she cut freehand into the most expensive fabric and in a matter of minutes turned it into a beautiful garment, Steele said.

Trigere kept designing into her 90s. Most recently, she worked with a Web site and catalog company to make items for style-conscious seniors like eyeglass cases, pill boxes and hearing-aid pouches. "Practicality has always been very important in my life and my designs. You have to make things functional, but that doesn't mean they can't be attractive," she said in an interview with The Associated Press in December 2000.

Trigere was among the first to use common fabrics like cotton and wool in evening wear in the 1940s. In the 1960s, she introduced the jumpsuit as a fashion staple. She created clothing for royalty and celebrities, including style icons like Bette Davis and the Duchess of Windsor. Her designs had such staying power that her vintage gowns have popped up on Hollywood red carpets in the 21st century.

"In the time I worked with her, every fashion figure, every entertainment figure passed through her salon," said Jimmy Newcomer, who is now assistant chair of fashion design at FIT.

Trigere was born into a French tailoring family and moved to New York City in 1937. She won her first Coty Award from the jury of the American Fashion Critics in 1949. In 1993, she received a lifetime achievement award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
slick.org

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21-06-2007
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Quote:
1973 Printed silk chiffon.


phxart.org

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21-06-2007
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Red Gown - circa 1992 - featuring a sweetheart neckline with antique jewelry photographed by me for a feature editorial in Palm Spring's Life Magazine. This particular photo was not used, but it has always been a personal favorite of mine and Trigere herself said she liked it.


lookonline.com

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21-06-2007
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Quote:
Pauline Trigere Cocktail Dress
American, early 1960s
Of black wool jersey, sleeveless with low stand away decolletage revealing secondary panel, nude silk chiffon optional insert decorated with black, bronze and silver sequins graduating in density from stand up neckline to cleavage, skirt slightly gathered from curved high waist seam, size 8, labeled: Pauline Trigere.
doylenewyork

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21-06-2007
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Quote:
Pauline Trigere Silk Pantsuit
American, 1970s
Of gently gathered black self striped chiffon with nude lining, V-cleavage to high waistline, loose pants, unlined bell sleeves, black silk tie belt and separate chiffon scarf, size 6, labeled: Pauline Trigere.
doylenewyork

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21-06-2007
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These are absolutely beautiful, Dos Violines! I really like her work, and to open a shop in the midst of WWII just bowls me over!

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26-06-2007
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Quote:
Trigère cashmere evening cape, c.1960-70

Pauline Trigère had a unique mastery of draping wool fabrics. Her hands-on method of cutting directly from bolts of fabric enabled her to bring out the fluid drape in even the stiffest tweed. She was the first designer to champion the use of wool for evening wear. From the "master of cut," this incredibly smart-looking cape has an uncluttered architectural style in a sensual, luxe fabric. It is all about simplicity and clean lines.

What could be more luxurious than an evening cape of buttery soft cashmere that gently drapes over your body, hinting at womanly curves underneath? I love the futuristic, padded shoulder detail. The color is deep midnight blue—almost black. The cape is lined only over the shoulders, allowing it to fall in softly draped folds. It closes at the neckline with hooks.

Pauline Trigère rose to the top through the unbeatable combination of great design talent and incredibly hard work, born of necessity, starting as a very young girl. She was born to Russian émigré parents in Paris in 1912 and learned the trade from her tailor father and her dressmaker mother. At 13, not having the money to buy a dress for a dance, she made her first dress, a frock of plaid taffeta. (In 1971, for fun, the famous designer made that same frock with its three layers of organdy edged with red, green, and blue piping.)

Pauline was using a sewing machine and working as a clothing cutter by age 10. At 15, she was apprenticed to the couture house of Martial et Armand. This is the intensive, painstaking early training that almost every major artist had when very young. Superior technique and craftsmanship are necessary, but not sufficient, for great artistry, whatever the field, e.g., Mozart in music and Trigère and Vionnet in design.
vintagetextile

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12-07-2007
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Quote:
late 60’s strapless gown & jacket. This simple strapless evening gown of ivory silk faille is topped with a navy blue bodice of lightweight wool. The bodice is composed of 4 horizontal bands of fabric with the structure provided by an attached black bustier. The bustier is labeled ‘The Designers Collection by Formfit, designed by Pauline Trigere’ Size 34. The bustier has a series of hooks and eyes and the dress has a zipper, all in the center back. Trigere loved jackets with evening dresses and this jacket is quite spectacular. It is made of the same ivory silk faille, with a heavier silk lining than the ivory silk lining used in the skirt. The jacket is collarless, with a heart shaped neckline and 5 lovely oval rhinestone buttons. The hemline of the jacket follows the curve of the dress, dipping lower in the back. The sleeves are quite unusual, a very full elbow length bell shaped sleeve, gathered at the shoulder seam into three large folds. These folds cause the sleeve to stand out for a very dramatic silhouette. The label is in the center back. Both the gown and jacket are in excellent condition. There is a slight staining of the bottom edge of the hem.


katykane.com

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12-07-2007
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Quote:
This mauve wool coat by famed designer Pauline Trigere is a couture quality garment that can be worn with great style and ease.

The shawl collar is cut in one piece with the front of the coat, and has darts and gathers at the nape of the neck for shaping. The sleeves have two darts at the shoulder seams for ease of movement. The single self fabric wool button is attached with a narrow strip of leather, and it is used to draw attention to the narrow waistline. Two pockets are artfully concealed in the side seams of the coat. The back of the coat is shaped from five panels, allowing for a fitted waistline and more fullness near the hem. The entire coat is lined in pale mauve silk, which is finished by hand. This beautiful coat is extremely wearable and in pristine condition.


katykane.com

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13-07-2007
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Quote:
Trigere Skeleton Coat c. 1954

Materials: Ivory cotton faille, steel snaps and thread covered hooks, cotton muslin lining.

Label: Woven cloth: "Pauline Trigere"; original shop tags and sold tag: "Style 1306; Size 14; Price $110."

Comments: Trigere's coat has wonderful tailoring details, such as handmade eyes and covered hooks and the back belt's wedge insertion into the front panels. An unusual and distinctive coat by one of America's premier designers.
antique-lace

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19-07-2007
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Quote:
Circa 1950. Vintage Pauline Trigere chocolate brown, silk dress. The silk has a faille like texture.


isadoras.com

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21-07-2007
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Quote:
Double faced wool.


ubnyc.com

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Last edited by SomethingElse; 21-07-2007 at 04:05 PM.
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