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11-06-2007
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Quote:
Silk - S/S 1947: The corset is a fashion convention to define the waist and project the bosom. Challenged by nature, reason, and gender rights, the corsetted silhouette remained a persistent aesthetic ideal of the twentieth century. During the 1940s and 1950s, in particular, ideas of femininity were expressed fashion-wise in a cinched waist akin to the corsetted construction of the past, as in this evening gown by Jacques Fath. Despite the anachronistic lacing, this dress reveals its structure like a modernist building. Pink, a color of twentieth-century lingerie, is combined with a traditional lacing in an evening silhouette of the postwar years, here given deeper historical resonance. In 1954, just before his death, Fath returned to the representation of the corset as a means of reationalizing the wasp waist he preferred.


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12-06-2007
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Quote:
Jacques Fath Tweed Suit
1950s
Green and brown checkerboard weave wool, the cape style jacket double breasted, with round pleated sculptural collar, leather buttons, curved pockets, with straight skirt, size 8, labeled: Jacques Fath/Paris/Made In France.
Excellent condition.
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14-06-2007
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I think this is the image that's missing from one of the previous posts.
Quote:
1940-45 Set of jacket and skirt; navy wool flannel; velvet trim; pleats at front of skirt.


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22-06-2007
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Quote:
Fath Black Lace Bouffant Dress
French, 1951
Black Alencon style lace over blush pink silk tulle, slender bodice, scoop neck, boned foundation, short kimono wheel sleeve with two-tier underlay of organza wraped tulle concluding in a revealed four inch ruffle of four layers of crystal pleated tulle, the bias skirt full from dropped yoke, self covered belt at natural waistline, five layers of tulle, a buckram petticoat and pale pink silk taffeta slip stiffened with net, size 4, labeled: Jacques Fath/Paris, pencil markings W504.
See Harper's Bazaar, September 1951, p.218 for photograph by Louise Dahl-Wolfe.
Only 42 when he died tragically of leukemia in 1954, Jacques Fath was in his ascendancy. The epitome of chic, considered by many as the fashion heir apparent to Dior, his ravishing good looks and charm combined with his exquisite couture resulted in a stunning post war rise in popularity so swift Vogue likened it to a comet. He designed the costumes for the Powell and Pressburger movie, The Red Shoes, which brought his designs to the attention of American society women and Hollywood stars, including Mrs. Vincent Astor, Mrs. Thompson Biddle, Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo and Rita Hayworth (he designed her trousseau when she married Aly Khan), as well as the aforementioned Eva Peron.
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22-06-2007
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Quote:
Jacques Fath Silk Two-Piece Evening Dress
French, 1950/51
Comprising a black crystal pleated silk voile blouse with set in full elbow length sleeves, black buttons at front closure, black velvet ribbon sewn bow at neck, removable ivory cotton collar and cuffs, an emerald silk faille floor length skirt falling full from small tight gathers at waistband, zip and buttoned placket closure at rear, the hem a thirteen inch applied border of black silk satin and emerald faille alternating stripes, black stiffened net petticoat, two inch wide black patent leather belt, size 4, labeled: Jacques Fath/Paris/20505.
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22-06-2007
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Quote:
Fath Black Taffeta Two-Piece Dress
Grisette, French, 1951
Horizontally gathered and tucked, fitted blouse with round neck and black button closure down center front, elbow length sleeve with starched white handkerchief linen cuffs, voluminous skirt shaped into umbrella folds, crinoline lined, thin black leather belt, size 4, labeled: Jacques Fath/Paris.
See Harper's Bazaar, September 1951, p.157 for wool version, "outstanding success of the Paris collections".
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11-07-2007
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15-07-2007
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This is a detail image of one of the dresses in post #3.

Quote:
1951 Ball gown. Black silk velvet with ivory silk satin, white mink, and gold metal trim. Known for flattering dinner dresses that set off the head and shoulders with an audacious décolletage, Fath created a cantilevered outer bodice with a modest ivory satin underbodice. The extended plane of the outer bodice is like the soaring shapes of Saarinen's buildings, establishing an artifice within the canon of modernist restraint. Fath played with contrast—of matte and shiny, of ivory and black, of white fur and gold bullion—as a rich textural perimeter for the dress.


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26-07-2007
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Quote:
Jacques Fath Evening Gown & Ephemera, 1949
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26-07-2007
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Quote:
Jacques Fath Silk Cocktail Ensemble, Late 1940
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26-07-2007
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Quote:
Jacques Fath Reversible Linen Dress, 1949
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26-07-2007
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beautiful thread!

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01-08-2007
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Quote:
Jacques Fath Evening Gown, c. 1950
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18-09-2007
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Quote:
Lady Alexandra wearing a Jacques Fath evening dress, Paris, 1948.
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30-12-2007
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A rare and early Jacques Fath ball gown and matching cape, early 1940s, the gown labelled `Jacques Fath, Paris', of deep rose-pink satin, zip-fastened centre-front and with zips to both cuffs, the bodice embroidered with stylised flowers and seeds, large elliptical topaz coloured pastes, chunky beads and raised couched threads and braids and scattered silver and gold sequins, the gently gathered skirt which culminates in a padded, quilted band at the hem; the matching cape with similar quilted detailing to the angular collar and hem, bust 91cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in, (2) Jacques Fath (1912-1954) was one of the most influential designers in post-war Paris. His first collection was in 1937 and he was named as one of the most important designers of 1939. On the outbreak of World War II he enlisted in the army and was taken prisoner in 1940. On his release he re-opened his house in Rue François 1st with his wife Genevieve and produced clothes for those who could afford them during the occupation until 1944 when he moved to Avenue Pierre. His success grew as did his client list and he named among them Rita Hayworth who chose him to design her trousseau for her wedding to Ali Khan. He died of leukaemia aged forty-two.




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