well it was VERY modern in the right context....
but there is no question in my mind that ysl's work was strongest during the 60's and 70's...
but even in the 80's his stuff looked modern...
it's just that we don't remember what other people were doing at the time...
he was always one of the BEST of the BEST...!!
and a true leader and innovator in fashion...
LONDON As the Paris shows of ready-to-wear clothes open, buyers are paying premiums for rare examples of haute couture.
At a Christie's International auction in London, an Yves Saint Laurent nautical-style blazer raised £6,600, or $11,667, from a European buyer last week, as bidders drove the price up from a top estimate of £300. The blazer was part of a collection of clothes worn on the catwalk by Ulla Carenby of Sweden, one of YSL's favorite models in the 1970s. Many YSL items sold for four times their top estimates, or more.
"These were unique pieces, so you never really know how much they'll bring," said Patricia Frost, head of the costume department at the London-based auction house. The high prices will influence Christie's future estimates on vintage clothing, she said in an interview.
Auctions of vintage clothes are on the rise as they become collectibles and as more women seek unusual items. Museums, vintage clothing dealers, designers and private collectors were big buyers at the Christie's auction, Frost said.
In Paris, the auction house Cornette de Saint Cyr, better known for contemporary art sales, sold a 1967 YSL pearled dress for 18,000, or $21,720, in July, the newspaper Les Echos reported.
Christie's auction room in the South Kensington district of London was packed with women looking for bargains as well as retailers and collectors of vintage clothing. YSL items had three or four telephone bidders competing for them.
Asked if she would bet on any trends coming out of fashion week based on the auction, Frost said romantic, Bohemian clothes may do well. The British designer Ossie Clark's print dresses of the 1970s were snapped up by collectors and wearers at Christie's sale, she said.
Christie's is owned by François Pinault, who also controls Gucci Group and YSL, along with the Paris retailer Le Printemps, through his company PPR. Christie's last month showed highlights from its Sept. 29 auction in a preview at Printemps. Christie's currently is previewing items at the Printemps store from its March 2006 London sale, as part of a show of vintage clothing.
"There are crossovers between Pinault's customers and Christie's," said Frost.
Christie's sale last week included 78 lots of ready-to-wear clothes from the wardrobe of Mouna Ayoub, a patron of haute couture who wrote a book in 2000 about her marriage to a Saudi billionaire. The items, ranging from an ivory bouclé wool Chanel jacket to Gucci leather trousers trimmed with mink, as well as high boots and ankle boots from Gucci and Chanel, mostly sold, some above their estimates.
Ayoub, 50, has been successful in shedding unwanted accessories. In 1998, Christie's auctioned a 112.53-carat yellow diamond fashioned by Bulgari for $3.2 million and raised a total of $8 million for her from a jewelry sale.
There is not a trace of smoke in sight as you enter the imposing doors of the Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent Foundation in Paris' chic 16th arrondissement. But take a wander around the darkened rooms of Smoking Forever, its latest exhibition, and you feel you have entered the sultry world of an old-fashioned smoking room " with one exception. The tuxes are for the ladies only.
This show is devoted not to the designer's nicotine habit but to le smoking, the French for tuxedo, and one of the designs that Yves Saint Laurent did best " for both sexes.
Derived from the original English term 'smoking suit' " a suit intended for indoor use " it was originally a term for menswear. But, with his Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection of 1966, the French designer turned the fashion world on its head. His legendary smoking redefined the female silhouette and created a new wardrobe staple for generations to come.
'Yves Saint Laurent transformed woman into a queen who, in her smoking, dares to check the king,' explained the show's organisers.
Helmut Newton's 1978 photograph of Catherine Deneuve and Yves Saint Laurent himself captures the attitude of the exhibition, with the young designer gripping the lapels of his jacket and the actress looking outwards with a steely gaze. All at once, France's most feminine starlet has become predatory, androgynous, and irresistibly elegant. Deneuve is quoted as remarking that her smoking, first worn in the early 1980s, 'really does make you feel different as a woman, it changes the gestures'.
Newton's iconic image provides a striking backdrop to the first roomful of the silhouettes, set against black walls and placed on a chessboard floor.
Yves Saint Laurent's androgynous creations changed the way women saw themselves. As Jean-Pierre Derbourd, the former technical director of Yves Saint Laurent's couture house, explained: 'We never pinned sleeves according to an arm hanging down, but on to a bent arm, hand on hip.'
This gesture of power goes hand in hand with the smoking. Playing his own part in the sexual revolution, Yves Saint Laurent emancipated women with his clothes.
Though the designer established himself as a couturier under the ultra- feminine New Look, his love-affair with the dinner jacket seems to have been inspired more by the label's arch-rival, Coco Chanel. Chanel gave women freedom, seems to be the message of the exhibition, but Yves Saint Laurent gave them power.
Tuesday, October 04, 2005(dailytimes.com)
PARIS: A photo taken at the Berge-Saint-Laurent Foundation shows the exhibition ‘Smoking Forever,’ which opens on October 05 midway through Paris fashion week, unveiling next spring-summer’s ready-to-wear collections. Forty years ago French couturier Yves Saint Laurent first dressed a woman in a black tuxedo. afp
I'll try to cover as much as I can different catogeries in Yves Saint Laurent life. ....
..I'll start with the final of the 1998 World Cup, near Paris, 300 models presented a retrospective of YSL creations, to celebrate the designer's forty years in fashion, in front of 80,000 football fans and more than 170 international sports channels.
I thought it would be great to show people waht couture really is. Or how it was when the great master Yves St. Laurent ruled the seen. This was his I think last collection before he stopped doing couture for the label and handed it fully over to the Gucci group.
(all from style.com)