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13-09-2007
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Silk Cocktail Dress, 1980s.






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09-11-2007
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Gypsy Dress, Printed & padded satin, c. 1970.


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09-11-2007
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Like Vivienne Westwood, Zandra Rhodes (b.1942) has often looked for inspiration to historical styles or interesting techniques from the past. Indeed, she too has researched for a number of her designs in the dress and textile collections at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. This short dress in ivory silk printed with red and blue zigzags is made of a farbic design, called "Sparkle", which was inspired by Elizabethan and Jacobean doublets using slashes as decoration. The dress has smocking to the front of the bodice, whilst the hemline is zigzaged or dagged, and there are accompanying blue silk shorts to wear with the outfit, also zigzag-edged.

This ensemble was purchased from the designer in 1970 by the media celebrity, Janet Street-Porter, and is on display in the costume gallery's exhibition of recent fashion. Another Zandra Rhodes outfit in cerise crepe was bought at the same time, pictured below, and this also has rather "retro" or historical influence in the hareem style trousers, smocking and "lettuce" edging to the top. Although it does not immediately appear like a wedding dress, Janet Street-Porter wore this second outfit for her informal marriage in 1976.


manchestergalleries.org

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“Above all, remember that the most important thing you can take anywhere is not a Gucci bag or French-cut jeans; it's an open mind” Gail Rubin Bereny
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09-11-2007
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Silk jersey, c. 1976. Tunic and hareem pants in vivid pink jersey; long sleeved top, machine smocked, with satin stitch "lettuce" edging to external seams. Matching long trousers, gathered at the ankle. Worn by Janet Street-Porter (Media Celebrity) in 1976 at her wedding to Tony Elliott, when she wore a black polo-neck jumper below, and dark socks and sandals.


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09-11-2007
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This evening ensemble exemplifies the soft, layered, highly decorated "special" dresses made in the 1970s by the British couturier, Zandra Rhodes, and it was presented to the museum soon after its creation by the designer herself. The silk was commissioned by the designer and entitled "My Little Lilies" as it incorporated stylised flowers and the words lilies, leaves, grass and the name "Zandra Rhodes" itself. Japanese influence is very apparent in the wide batwing sleeves, the low v-neckline gathered to the waist and especially the kimono-style cut with wide satin sash at the waist. The two other outfits pictured below also from the 1970s show other aspects of her work, including smocking, slashing and printing, all influenced by the past.

Born in 1942, Zandra Rhodes opened her first shop in Fulham Road in 1968 and rose quickly to national success, being named Designer of the Year by the British Clothing Institute in 1972. Since then she has remained an established, if now very retro, character on the London fashion scene, still designing her romantic fantasy outfits, and master-minding her own recently-opened London museum to showcase her work over nearly 40 years. Her own appearance, which has little altered over 30 years, is also famous for its "soft punk" pink hair and dramatic make-up.


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30-12-2007
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Sea-shell printed chiffon dress, 1972-3, labelled with plunging neckline, drawstring ties to centre front, wide dolman sleeves.




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06-01-2008
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Sylvia Ayton (1937-) and Zandra Rhodes (1940-).

c. 1966. Paper, Lent by Sylvia Ayton MBE

Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes's innovative designs were taken up by boutiques and some of the more commercial stores. When Miss Selfridge opened in 1966, the buyer stocked their distinctive printed paper dresses. Customers loved them, but kept tearing the hems to see if they really were made out of paper - they were!


vam.ac.uk

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06-01-2008
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http://www.iqons.com/Zandra+Rhodes

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06-01-2008
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Sylvia Ayton (1937-) and Zandra Rhodes (1940-)

c. 1966 Organdie and linen, Retailed at Top Gear (9 guineas)

Ayton and Rhodes opened the Fulham Road Clothes Shop in 1968, having previously designed for a number of boutiques run by friends. Their clothes were admired for the adventurous prints and flattering shapes. This dress combines a skillfully cut, angular neckline with a circle print inspired by the dresses that Paco Rabanne made from huge plastic sequins.


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28-03-2008
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Zandra Rhodes Evening Gown, 1980s

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29-07-2008
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Zandra Rhodes Butterfly Evening Wrap
English, early 1980s
In the style of Erte, the cocoon wrap of pale aqua chiffon printed with central butterfly motif sewn with pearlized leaf paillettes revealed in full with opening of arms, the wrap with capelet collar and pointed hem, edges trimmed with pink teardrop pearls and seed pearls, long pink cord silk tie, separate neck scarf, labeled: Zandra Rhodes/London, and fabric signed.
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29-07-2008
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Zandra Rhodes Octopus Dress
English, 1970s
With green satin ruffled top, tied at neck with spaghetti straps, the silk chiffon skirt printed with octopus pattern in greens and black, arranged in tentacle-like panels, white sheath underslip, labeled: Zandra Rhodes/London.
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29-07-2008
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Zandra Rhodes Fields of Lilies Dress
English, 1970s
The floor length gown of chiffon printed with abstracted lilies and foliage design, inscribed variously "fields of lilies, beautiful lilies, Zandra's beautiful lilies, lots and lots of lilies," in shades of green and pink, on white ground, the skirt full, the bodice with long pointed sleeves, pointed V front and back neckline drapery decorated with pearls and pearlized paillettes, ivory satin underslip, pink satin belt, labeled: Zandra Rhodes/London.
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29-07-2008
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Zandra Rhodes evening dress, 1980s

The unique print designs of Zandra Rhodes, like a personal form of handwriting, set her apart from other designers. She is first and foremost a textile artist, which is not surprising, considering her background. She studied lithography, intending to become textile designer, but instead gravitated to fashion design, where she has made a brilliant career.

The boned bodice is completely embroidered with a ground of twisted black silk ropes. Delicate gold cording is embroidered over the black rope.

The marvelously textured mix of motifs includes gold beads; black glass beads; wooden beads; large novelty beads set with faux turquoise stones; gold braid and gold ribbon ruffles. The bodice is lined with black satin.

The layered skirt consists of a satin underskirt and a printed silk organza outer layer with a matching tulle petticoat sandwiched in between. The dress closes in back with a hand-stitched zipper.
vintagetextile
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29-07-2008
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Zandra Rhodes beaded chiffon dress, c.1984

This dramatic dress, from the 1984 "Manhattan" collection, is an exemplar of Rhodes' work. She was inspired by another artistic achievement, the Chrysler Building, the finest Art Deco building in New York. Although not the tallest skyscraper in the City, it has remained New York's architectural masterpiece. Rhodes uses the unique decorative form of the top of the building as the basis for her print design.

The dress is fashioned from printed red silk chiffon. The bodice is partially lined with plain red chiffon; the skirt is lined with red China silk. The print on the bodice front is accented with decorative beads. I love the novelty beaded trim that outlines the neckline. The skirt and sleeve hems have her signature beaded drops.
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