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08-08-2009
  511
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BerlinRocks's Avatar
 
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an ebay auction ...
not sure we can post this ... though ...

http://cgi.ebay.fr/Rare-Mag-REI-KAWAKUBO-Comme-des-Garcons-Stephen-SPROUSE_W0QQitemZ380146655554QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK _Books_NonFictionBooks_NonFictionBooks_SM?hash=ite m588281a142&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Quote:
Rare Mag REI KAWAKUBO Comme des Garcons Stephen SPROUSE

Superb rare magazine THE KEY published in 1984 in New York

Excellent fashion and photography
Fashion includes a special cover and double page spread of Comme des garcons plus Jean Paul Gaultier, Stephen Sprouse, Joan Vass
A great scarce magazine

Very good condition for age.

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16-08-2009
  512
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from "Shock Of The Neon", Harper's & Queen, February 1994, photographs - Walter Chin, model - Bridget Hall.

Miyake:

"Brilliant interpretation: Miyake's classic pleats of primaries, Flying saucer dress, £830, Issey Miyake." (dip-dye mesh t-shirt underneath by Liza Bruce)



Yamamoto:

"Splashes of colour swirled over paint box red: multi-coloured crossover bodice dress, £785, worn over jersey panel dress, £249, both Yohji Yamamoto."



Watanabe:

"Colour blind: Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo's protoge, was unleased on to the catwalk for the first time this spring, where he clased techno-colours & man-made fibres in strange new shapes. Rayon "odd" shirt, £380, stretch checked trousers, £860, nylon stretch sweater, £240, all by Junya Watanabe, from a selection at Comme des Garcons."



scanned by me.

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24-08-2009
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it's pretty small ...
i'll find a way to upload the HQ at this site (maybe with print option !)

anyway ...

from 1982 L'Officiel - on the right
2 Yamamoto black dress

- jalou gallery / archives -
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0679_0000_076.jpg (69.3 KB, 46 views)

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24-08-2009
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from L'Officiel 1982 (686), too ...
Issey Miyake (second and last - on right), Jungle Jap by Kenzo (third - on left) ... and Kanzaï Yamamoto (first image) (who's this ?)

- same source -
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0686_0000_087.jpg (59.2 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0686_0000_086.jpg (60.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0686_0000_055.jpg (68.9 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0686_0000_053.jpg (60.7 KB, 18 views)

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24-08-2009
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same source
same magazine
1982 (684)

Yamamoto (first image - on left)
Miyake (second image - on left) and Yamamoto (second image - on right)
Kenzo and Miyake ad campains
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0684_0000_073.jpg (65.3 KB, 32 views)
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File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0684_0000_049.jpg (53.8 KB, 145 views)
File Type: jpg 550-385_1982_0684_0000_050.jpg (54.7 KB, 154 views)

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24-08-2009
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BerlinRocks's Avatar
 
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1983 / CDG
1987 / CDG
1983 / Miyake


same source
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CDG 1983 copy.JPG (142.8 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg CDG 1987 copy.JPG (185.2 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg miyake 1983 copy.JPG (184.7 KB, 12 views)

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26-08-2009
  517
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about 140 years ago there was a drastic modernizaton started in japan.
since then, changes had been a prevailing mood.
and by the era named taisho (1912-1926), lots of traditional culture disappered.
those who stuck to the affection for the good old things were a minority, and were called "bankara".
in a way it was a resistance to rapid westernization, a rebellious spirit toward the times.
and when it became a youth movement, their statement was visible on the surface level too as they typically kept wearing the same old clothing items to rags, along with their long hair. and they didn't give up hakama's. even if they accepted gakuran (school uniform), they customised gakuran for the exaggeratedly loose fit or the hakama-like silhouette. they refused to wear shoes.
those students didn't want to get aboard the bandwagon.
it might have been the first big form of anti fashion.

I haven't seen designers like yohji, rei, etc talking about it.
but I guess the bankara style has had some influence on them, especially yohji.



punkish or hippie in some way
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26-08-2009
  518
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bankara is not completely dead today.
you can see it narrowly alive in the school cheering group, for some reason.


.
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File Type: jpg p5140088.jpg (50.0 KB, 18 views)

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26-08-2009
  519
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22569966.at.webry.inf
mariakyoto.blog92.fc2.com
kagaan3.exblog.jp
6.atpages.jp
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26-08-2009
  520
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^ That's really interesting - I wasn't aware of this subculture, but its influence now seems pretty obvious. Thanks as always, runner.

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26-08-2009
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that's great, runner thank you :-P

i remember that the people who went along the change, they were called "moga" and "mobo" (modern girl | modern boy)

it's neat to point out that it's only males doing this in these pictures.
and that the hakama/kimono for men is quite large in silhouette, seems to be full of triangles or squares
whereas the women's is more straight and like a cylinder, but with square sleeves.

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27-08-2009
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you're welcome droogist


gius, there appeared a word "haikara" first, around 1900.
hai-kara, that is, high collar for the western style in general.
then, as an antithesis, "bankara".
ban is 蛮 which means rough, coarse, unpolished, etc.
both terms are about things and people with each style.

and, in the 20's, they called the westernized "moga/mobo".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_girl
it seems that on the whole females could enjoy haikara and being moga.
also bankara could have been a bit too hard-core, even if there had been females who were not comfortable with the new things.
btw, by the time of the launch of so-en, the western style had totally been accepted apparently.
http://fashionjp.net/archive/sch/vol1.html

though, as you see in the last pic in #520, the head of the cheering group in the super wide leg modified pants called "dokan" and the elongated jacket "chu-ran" is a girl.
so maybe there is contemporary bankara, regardless of female/male.



bankara.net
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07-09-2009
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Reading something (Serge Daney - a french cinema critic) and came across the mention of Wenders + Yamomoto 1989 movie made for tv ...
Notebook on Cities and Clothes ...

Anyone ever see this movie ?
I guess ... Coz it seems it has been released in vhs in the mid 1990s and on dvd in the 2000s.

anyone has a youtube-whetever link ?

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05-10-2009
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^Saw it a while ago, but I wasn't too impressed. It wasn't very focused, and a surprising amount of time was spent on topics that didn't involve Yamamoto at all. I seem to remember a lot of shots of driving on the roads, but that might be Tokyo-Ga I'm thinking of. (Not a big fan of Wenders' stuff usually, but maybe if you are it'd be more enjoyable?)

This isn't too busy of a subforum, is it?

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05-10-2009
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1983
photo: Ken Browar

Quote:
left: issey miyake
reversible black and white woven coat
worn over a dress with a corrugated effect

right: comme des garcons
large braided pullover with tight skirt


orig post by hfgl
~ jalougallery

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