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14-01-2010
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was this posted ????

if so, feel free to erase ...

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ReFUSING FASHION: REI KAWAKUBO
February 8 through April 20, 2008


One of the most elusive fashion designers in the world, Rei Kawakubo of Japan, is known for remaking the forms of clothes. Her sweaters full of holes, jackets with only one sleeve and dresses that are part dress and part pants are unique, yet always wearable. She says she wants to "design clothes that have never yet existed." Her innovative fashion, unique methods of fabrication and collaborations with artists working in many different fields including the great modern choreographer Merce Cunningham, will be explored in a unique installation of her work at MOCAD. The exhibition will include over 40 key garments, costumes from and film of the Cunningham performance, photographs, runway footage and ephemera.

The exhibition ReFUSING FASHION: REI KAWAKUBO aims to present a view of Kawakubo's work as a series of interventions and dis-ruptions in the arena of style and fashion: whether her work is thought of as anti-fashion in the world of fashion, or of ugliness and clumsiness in a system classically devoted to good taste, Kawakubo's work is a constant process of renewal of vocabulary and thinking.

Rei Kawakubo (b. 1942), established the high fashion house Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1973. Kawakubo's concepts originate from her education in fine arts and literature rather than a formal fashion design training, and incorporate elements from the famed Fruits subculture of the Harajuko district of Tokyo. Driven by concepts, she is known for conveying her ideas verbally to her patternmakers to interpret. Kawakubo is considered a key figure in re-defining sexual identity in new terms of feminity, and is often discussed in the company of such figures as Coco Chanel, Elsa Shiaparelli, and Vivienne Westwood. With the introduction of her line in Paris in 1981, Kawakubo created a sensation with her androgynous and innovative design, and solidified her stature as one of the three major avant-garde designers from Japan, alongside Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto.

From the stunning architectural interiors of her stores to the provocative makeup and styling of her models on the runway, Kawakubo has consistently managed to challenge conventions with each facet of her presentation. Kawakubo's broad-based design practice has included collaborations across genres, including architects and artists such as Steven Meisel, Gilbert and George, Francesco Clemente, Philip Johnson, Julian Schnabel and others. Her designs have inspired a generation of new designers including such luminaries as Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Helmut Lang, and her own protégé Junya Watanabe.
there is a catalogue :

Quote:
ReFUSING FASHION: REI KAWAKUBO
Linda Dresner, Susanne Hilberry and Marsha Miro; Editors
Price: $35
AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE NOW; WILL BE SHIPPED ON OCTOBER 27, 2008
The catalog to accompany last winter’s ReFusing Fashion: Rei Kawakubo exhibition will be available soon. Filled with beautiful installation photos and thoughtful essays about Rei Kawakubo’s remarkable designs, the catalog highlights the self-proclaimed “artist/businesswoman’s” awe-inspiring life and career.
since tFS isn't working properly, i prefer to post pics later ....

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14-01-2010
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see more of the catalogue, here :
http://designarchives.aiga.org/index.html?s1=2|s2=1|eid=20944

more photos of the exhibition (HQ) here :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/burnlab...n/photostream/

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22-01-2010
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1984 editorial from the sydney times showing works by miyake, comme des garcons, takenori otake, etc.



news.google.com

full size pages: http://news.google.com/newspapers?ni...g=3919,6802214

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22-01-2010
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Takenori Otake

I don't know much about this designer, but according to a Pittsburgh Post article in 1981 (http://news.google.com/newspapers?ni...g=6334,3955644), he was born circa 1951, began designing clothes circa 1974. He is also mentioned and his work illustrated in the article I posted above.

Here is one of his pieces, an interesting early to mid-80s kimono with his Takenoko label. It has the same baggy, deconstructed feel as the early 80s CDG and Yamamoto pieces.





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22-01-2010
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when i saw your mikli x montana ... i knew you went shopping !

love you, man !

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08-03-2010
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Excellent X

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10-03-2010
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yohji yamamoto pour homme coat, mid-late 90s i think

100% nylon. it has a messy abstract watercolor pattern. the buttons are wood, with an actual japanese lacquer finish, a detail i found very thoughtful





pics by me

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16-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drusilla_ View Post
PS: Does anyone know anything about Koji Tatsuno? He was a protege of Yohji's in the early 90s but got forced out of business a while ago (not sure if he started back up again, though, all I can find on him are a handful of short interviews and a New York Magazine article that mentions him)....any info would be welcome!
if i am not mistaken i do believe koji stopped back in the early 00's for reasons i am not certain of. but he did reappear in 2002 to resurrect the house of madame grès but i believe that has since ended. koji was also a work placement for one alexander mcqueen,whom had counted him amongst his most beneficial training experiences. it is where i really feel lee truly embraced a sense of rawness and texture,imo. koji also,along with maison martin margiela, designed costumes for the film 'the pillow book' starring ewan mcgregor back in 1996.


i did find this image from his a/w 93-94 collection


unfortunately there isn't much available in the way of information on the web. most everything i would assume would be in print.

*becomingfearless.typepad.com


Last edited by Scott; 16-03-2010 at 07:59 PM.
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14-04-2010
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this thread brings back good memories...

if anybody cares, i just bought my first issey miyake piece. no, unfortunately it isn't pleats please as those items are way out of my budget, it's a olive tank with a mesh overlay.


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23-04-2010
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does anybody have information about the brand matsuda? also runway photos (?) or editorial photos?

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24-04-2010
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sounds nice travolta




matsuda S/S 1990
as you see shot by jan saudek

seirentei.exblog.jp
Attached Images
File Type: jpg matsuda.jpg (161.7 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg matsuda3.jpg (196.6 KB, 23 views)

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25-04-2010
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thank you, runner!

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26-04-2010
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2 old yohji long garments, early to mid 80s

thin white linen w/plastic buttons:


black linen w/metal buttons. the fabric has alternating blocks of plain and waffle texture linen.


issey miyake 2-piece suit w/zippered openings along backs of pant legs & around jacket




pics by me

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27-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by user500 View Post
does anybody have information about the brand matsuda? also runway photos (?) or editorial photos?
a few pieces from the matsuda s/s 93 menswear look book. clothes designed by yukio kobayashi (who had been with matsuda since 1976, and became a chief designer of menswear in 1983 and womenswear in 1995); photographs by geof kern.









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27-04-2010
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these show an aspect of the style/ design which i connect with matsuda from what i saw of a few single pieces; raw materials with different kind of embroideries, which create a very graphic effect.
i like the clothes in the first picture.

thank you, fashion.fashoff!

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