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19-03-2005
  91
a dim capacity for wings
 
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by takada kenzo, issey miyake and rei kawakubo (sorry, i don't know from when these are?)






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estella mare
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19-03-2005
  92
no photos, no photos
 
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so much great information and so many beautiful pics.....my head is spinning

thx

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19-03-2005
  93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luxmode
OMG, I love this thread!!!

Thanks softgrey and everyone else who posted pics and info!
Agreed!

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19-03-2005
  94
flaunt the imperfection
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nqth
Sorry I seem to have some problems with my server:-(
they're working now......

and they are AMAZING!!!...fantastic...you can see all the bubble/pouf stuff that was going on in the 80's that you see being revived in the fall collections...and the looser silhouette which did not adhere to the curves of the body...the ease of movement and the flow of the fabrics...

THANK YOU NGTH...!!!...

i absolutely see dries s/s 04 collection there...from style.com
dries van noten...seems like this is strongly influenced by comme...as seen in ngth's post on page two of this thread...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg drieswht.jpg (21.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg dries bkl.jpg (22.9 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg my dress.jpg (28.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg wht dress.jpg (21.6 KB, 16 views)

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Last edited by softgrey; 19-03-2005 at 12:54 PM.
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19-03-2005
  95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travolta
thanks mutterlein...how fantastic to see him speak...what do you think of his previous work? he is definately more of a textile designer-or textile architect-or better yet industrial design because he views fashion with specific goals-form meets function.
I actually like his earlier work more than the stuff he did right before he stopped designing.

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19-03-2005
  96
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excerpt from...http://www.throughthesurface.com/sym.../kawamura.html

'Like the shape of the kimono, the designs by Kawakubo, Miyake and Yamamoto were known for being gender neutral or unisex. Gender roles are determined only by social rules and regulations formed by society. Clothing constructs and deconstructs gender and gender differences. Clothing is a major symbol of gender that allows other people to immediately discover the individual’s biological sex. These three Japanese designers challenged the normative gender-specificity in clothes which was the characteristics of Western clothes.'

**these clothese were more than just pretty things...they revolutionized and challenged societal roles...and accepted norms...they broke down barriers and changed the cultural landscape...they gave women options that weren't really there before...and now it has seeped into the mainstream...look at marc jacobs new fall 04 collection...it is so 'witch-y'...which is SUCH a comme des garcons/yohji aesthetic...

this is why i got into fashion...i used to think you could actually use it to influence popular culture...and to change the world...and i think that at one time you could...but i don't know if there's as much room for that these days...people don't seem to want to think as hard these days...everyone has ADD and if you don't slap them accross the face you can't get their attention ..plus we're all so de-sensitized from being slapped in the face all the time with the 'next best thing'.......figuratively speaking , of course...

i think it's great to see that so many young aspiring designers are inspired by these great artists...but sometimes they forget the ultimate reason why these three were and are so great...it is because of their originality and individuality...it's because they showed us a perspective which we hadn't seen before and because they had their own voice and actually had something to say....they have done far more than just design clothing...they created a new vocabulary for fashion...who says a pair of pants can't have sleeves?...or that a top only needs one neck hole...? i do not think we would have a martin margiela today if we didn't have a rei kawakubo and an issey miyake...wouldn't it be interesting to see some kind of collaboration?...

with all of rei's collaborative projects...it's funny how she's never worked with any of the belgian deconstructionists who are so clearly influenced by her work...maybe it's too close to home?>...curious.....

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Last edited by softgrey; 19-03-2005 at 12:58 PM.
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19-03-2005
  97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutterlein
I actually like his earlier work more than the stuff he did right before he stopped designing.
i agree mutterlein...
i think he had lost interest in design by then and his real focus was on textiles and it showed in his later work...but that's why i think it's good that he has moved on and is able to work on something else which he is passionate about...continuing to explore ideas and create in a different way...

naoki is doing a fine job at miyake...imho...if only it wasn't so pricey...

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19-03-2005
  98
spoilt victorian child
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
with all of rei's collaborative projects...it's funny how she's never worked with any of the belgian deconstructionists who are so clearly influenced by her work...maybe it's too close to home?>...curious.....
She has..Comme des Garçons and Maison Martin Margiela presented their Spring/Summer 98 collections together (out of a spirit of kinship, I believe).

btw I adore this thread, I've spent the better part of an hour reading all these excellent links. Thanks everyone.


Last edited by droogist; 19-03-2005 at 01:11 PM.
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19-03-2005
  99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
i agree mutterlein...
i think he had lost interest in design by then and his real focus was on textiles and it showed in his later work...but that's why i think it's good that he has moved on and is able to work on something else which he is passionate about...continuing to explore ideas and create in a different way...

naoki is doing a fine job at miyake...imho...if only it wasn't so pricey...
I think Issey Miayke is one of the only designers I can think of that will go down in history as having contributed more to design than just nice clothes. The work he is doing is really going to change lives. I think Rei is similar in her exploration of textiles, weaves, and new materials. Her goals seem to be less industrial minded but the same interest is there.

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19-03-2005
  100
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You are welcome, Softgrey:-)

Some Tricot early 80s



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19-03-2005
  101
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1984








1981, photo by Peter Lindbergh



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19-03-2005
  102
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1985
Tricot by Eddy Kohli



CdG by Peter Lindbergh


1986 h+ (I think it's by Arthur Elgort)




Noir (prob. 1988)


Last edited by nqth; 19-03-2005 at 03:33 PM.
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19-03-2005
  103
kit
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This is the actual dress that I referred to in my earlier post .

The play in which the deaf american actress appeared in London , was ' Children of a lesser God ' , I think .

So many many thanks for coming up with this , nqth

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19-03-2005
  104
a dim capacity for wings
 
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nqth! those pictures are so awesome!!! and there is francesco clemente for comme des garcons, i didn't know that!

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19-03-2005
  105
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You are welcome, Kit and Anna:-)

In the 90s, Comme started using images nonrelated to clothes. It shows kind of graphic design, mood... Ideas. Always powerful and very very "sharp":-)

AW98-99




1996


1991


Shirt 2000 with Filip Pagowski

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