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05-05-2009
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That was actually one of my favorite collections that he did while at YSL, mostly because the look was just so desirable. And I love the perverse little touches, the ribbons or orchids around some of the girl's necks, the garters and stockings on every girl, the wrapped waists, the little cigarette box clutches.

The weird thing is that this collection wasn't that well received for being too "slick" and cold, not very Saint Laurent, but this collection reminds me a lot of some of Pilati's current work which is, ironically, getting heaps of praise.

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05-05-2009
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Thanks for posting, Spike. It's true...it's such an appealing collection. And the whole time I was looking through the pictures, I kept thinking..."this feels so Saint Laurent." People love to give Tom all the flack in the world, but I really feel like he created the 20th/21st vision of what YSL should have been.

I certainly loved what Stefano had to say for the house for his first 3 years as head designer, but nowadays, he's striped the entire brand of it's charm and sensuality...critics called this collection cold? Stefano's last 3 collections successfully reached sub-zero temperatures!

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06-05-2009
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Gucci became a wreck after Allesandra left. Allesandra was pretty good I think. No where near as visionary as Tom Ford but she seemed to know what she was doing and what the Gucci name stood for. Then when she left it all went downhill.
Frida came in and pretty much just destroyed the label and remade it into this generic budget line that seems to have no true feeling in it whatsoever.

Tom Ford was pure genius, his vision of a woman had such a strong vibe to it. There was true emotion and true personality. And he was more than effective at protraying that personality. Dangerous, intelligent, sophisticated and unforgivably sexy. He's the one designer I miss the most.

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06-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike413 View Post

The weird thing that is collection wasn't that well received for being too "slick" and cold, not very Saint Laurent, but this collection reminds me a lot of some of Pilati's current work which is, ironically, getting heaps of praise.
well I think the reason of that is due to Yves presense in the fashion scene at that time showing his romantic couture collections along to Tom's shows, so each move from Tom was counted & compared with the master ...& he did shake the image of YSL in a radical way, that Yves fan & lovers couldn't absorb it ...so now after these years & after Tom's shocking collections for YSL, Stefano approach would sound less harsh than Tom & acceptable...

but I think what Tom did in shaking YSL image & turning the house of YSL upside down was healthy, even though his approach to YSL could be theortically wrong, but financially it was right, he established a new customer & fans for the brand with his glamouros sexy looks, his must-have objects & ad-campaigns & the most important was the "attention" that YSL has got back which made an excellent base for Pilati to build on his current success.


Last edited by taz; 06-05-2009 at 05:17 AM.
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^ You're probably right about that taz. I think you could even say that up until he left the company in 2004, even though Yves was no longer designing the couture, Tom was still being rigidly compared to him for not doing what Yves would have done.

Maybe it took these eight, almost nine years for people to realize that it's not supposed to be what Yves himself would have done or liked, but what the current designer's vision of what YSL should be for right now.

I think that's probably the most disappointing aspect of Tom's departure from Gucci Group, because I think he really was starting to go somewhere with YSL, take more risks, explore things he never really would have done at Gucci. It's a shame that we never really got to see where that would end up.

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10-05-2009
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What Yves did looked like moth balls and chicken soup by the time Vogue stopped favorig him, which was early 90s. Everyone says that his creations were timeless, and they may be, but imo, it is not the actual clothes that were timeless, but it is the ideas behind. And Tom did a fantastic job of taking his themes from YSL and his DNA, and making them obviously modern, and timely - no matter what anyone says. Hell, he even did Opium 'modern' and popular again.

YSL brand owes so much to him and his influence, it is unseemly even to suggest that he was wrong for the brand. There were very few designers who could do what he has done. The likes of Ford, Lagerfeld and Galliano come once every blue moon. Reviving what is tired, moldy, and old is beyond challenging, especially when there is so much competition and pressure in terms of business and finances that dominate fashion and creative process right now.

YSL's pieces look dated, as it always is with fashion. Everything is bound to look 'old.' Even some of Gianni's genius pieces do, even though they are much younger in terms of creation date/period. I am not the biggest fan of Pilati, because I still think he doesn't know how to stop himself before drowning his clothes with his theme 'du jour.' If he does a romantic collection, it is way too romantic, and his techniques are cliched. Ruffles, polka dots, ribbons... if it is tailored, then it is so severe, so sharp, that again, they look way overdone and often gimmick-y.

'Le smoking' looks old and middle-aged women-like today, if it is not properly done like Tom's sharp and tight versions or Slimane's very linear thin cuts. When I think of that specific YSL look, I always do get reminded of Deneuve, with fried blond hair and black roots showing, bosoms out, pants that make the hips look huge, latge sunglasses, and a layer of dust. It is so French-tired.

Of course, these are only my views. there have been many instances when I have seen a gorgeous creation by Pilati displayed in the YSL store-Madison Avenue, and I am blown away by its sheer beauty. They make high-quality clothes, that is for sure. And I am not claiming they are ugly. He is just not my favorite among the modern Parisian-house designers.

I prefer Tom's vision, because he could create a look that transcended. It wasn't one woman one collection: he had his ideas, and every collection was a continuation of dressing the same woman. That is good or bad: it is a whole new debate. Tom was loyal to that 'imaginary' femme in his mind, and he displayed the true luxurious quality of his fabrics and materials quite lavishly and unapologetically, as he always could manage to do both at Gucci or YSL, or even today with his line.

Pilati doesn't do that. Even though his prices are high, his presentations are too feeble and make-belief modernist, it is quite transparent that he struggles so much under the weight of the old brand and what needs to be done to make it modern and compete with all the rest. And along the way, he continues to badmouth his former boss - Tom - and who he is/was as a designer. Which, I think, is both low and embarrassing.

He has been Tom's assistant for a very long time, you know.

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13-05-2009
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^hear hear!

clap clap!

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13-05-2009
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^^Agree also.

And thank-you Spike for posting all the pics from that YSL collection.
Totally exquisite Clearly a master at work and Ford's vision for YSL was evident here.
Seeing this makes me yearn for his comeback.

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You're welcome everyone. When I get a chance I'll post his next YSL collection. But for anyone who wants to look on their own, all of the YSL collections, with the exception of the most recent two, are free to view on Firstview.com.

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14-05-2009
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Quote:
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You're welcome everyone. When I get a chance I'll post his next YSL collection. But for anyone who wants to look on their own, all of the YSL collections, with the exception of the most recent two, are free to view on Firstview.com.
^ I know, I have no idea why those gorgeous collections are missing!!!!

I wish they had them there, since they post so many close-ups and detail shots. What is worse, they have no Dior show what-so-ever other than some Cruise collection I believe!!!

It is an outrage.

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