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19-02-2008
  16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telepathicgoat View Post
Same goes for Balenciaga and Prada, for instance. They don't allow editors/stylsts to combine their items with other designers, so nowadays it's normal to get a 8-page spread in Vogue dedicated entirely to Prada, cause Prada pays for it. And by that, leaving no room for others. Which I find aweful, and incredibly wrong. But as depressing as it is. It is the system we live in, and work in.
I can't tell you how much I hate that. The models also have the same hairstyle/makeup in the photoshoot as they did on the runways! It's just terrible!

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19-02-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telepathicgoat View Post
(please don't say that Raf is the "new generation", he's been doing this for ages and has a very loyal fanbase that has followed him for years and years...)
That may very well be true but a) until 2006 he was strictly a menswear designer, and therefore unknown to many and b) he's only recently getting worldwide recognition for what he can do based on the fact that he now designs womenswear.

He's not of the Galliano/McQueen/Prada/Tom Ford generation of designers who defined fashion and shaped style in the late 90's and early 00's.

I stand by my statement that he is part of a new generation of talent who are currently leading fashion in it's next direction.

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19-02-2008
  18
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It's an interesting thought. I cant stand to imagine as to what is to happen to fashion in the future sometimes. It's an exciting but scary thought at the same time. What if the next "wave of designer" produce really hideous and boring fashion? The passion for art is long gone and I don't know if it will ever come back. People who want "comfort" is all that's left and they're being praised and hailed by magazines of all kinds for their "style".

To me there are only a handful of designers left that I can truely call designers. John Galliano, Donatella Versace, Alexander McQueen, Elie Saab and a few more. I mean that's totally based on opinion but I dont wanna imagine what would happen if these people leave.

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19-02-2008
  19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squizree View Post
To me there are only a handful of designers left that I can truely call designers. John Galliano, Donatella Versace, Alexander McQueen, Elie Saab and a few more. I mean that's totally based on opinion but I dont wanna imagine what would happen if these people leave.
I agree. And while Elie Saab and Versace aren't my favorite designers (I do like them, though), I totally understand what you mean. I haven't seen a young designer 'wow' me yet. What ever happened to exciting fashion? Have we really gotten to a point where all that matters is the bottom line? Where clothes have replaced fashion on the runway? I feel as though there are only a small handful of designers left who make me excited every season, which is sad, because there are hundreds that show collections...HUNDREDS!!!

I'm aching for a fashion experience. A Dior Haute Couture SS 04, a McQueen FW 06, a Balenciaga FW 06, a Tom Ford Gucci/ YSL show, you know what I mean?...a show that moves you, or at least stirs emotions that go far beyond "oh, that's really pretty."

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20-02-2008
  20
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Originally Posted by Bidwell View Post
There is not an infinite market. The designers who pioneered pret-a-porter are still there and ARE NOT LETTING GO.
You can blame the creative direction at magazines too for being afraid of taking risks and catering to their own own interests and pawning it off on those who can't think for themselves. It's amazing how many younger people will look at what the older powers-that-be tell them to look at. It's like the music industry, it's all homogenized to sell.

There needs to be a weeding out of old school thinking for anything adventurous to really happen. Anyone taking a huge risk will risk alienating themselves for an entire season. That's the reason you have so many lines from the same houses, they're all safety nets that are more like sifters for money falling out of your pockets, not unlike a Coinstar machine. You know they take 8% off the top, right?

Anyway, the internet is a blessing and a curse too. Those who know where to look will find their niche, but when you hit Google up for something, the first thing you see is those banners and links for things related and that's the mainstream reeling you back in. Hell, we have that here at TFS, but they're paying for the bandwidth and I'm smart enough not to click on them, so no complaints.

I feel like I'm ranting, I'll shut up now.

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20-02-2008
  21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourboltmain View Post
You can blame the creative direction at magazines too for being afraid of taking risks and catering to their own own interests and pawning it off on those who can't think for themselves. It's amazing how many younger people will look at what the older powers-that-be tell them to look at. It's like the music industry, it's all homogenized to sell.

There needs to be a weeding out of old school thinking for anything adventurous to really happen. Anyone taking a huge risk will risk alienating themselves for an entire season. That's the reason you have so many lines from the same houses, they're all safety nets that are more like sifters for money falling out of your pockets, not unlike a Coinstar machine. You know they take 8% off the top, right?
I think you hit the nail on the head there. Yes, fashion critique seems to have hit a new low. It's really predictable - nobody seems to know anything more than what is wrong, what not to wear and possibly what "positively reeks POWER". There seems to be far too much concern in business interests and almost no personal positive taste.

In a way that is clever, of course, because having personal taste means, most often, that that taste will become out of style.

It's nothing that's different, in that sense, between fashion, music or movies...they all suffer from the same thing; Business has taken over to such an extent that artistic credibility no longer matters, there is no crucial mass of individuals at the top of these businesses with an inner core of personal taste.

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20-02-2008
  22
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Quote:
I'm aching for a fashion experience. A Dior Haute Couture SS 04, a McQueen FW 06, a Balenciaga FW 06, a Tom Ford Gucci/ YSL show, you know what I mean?...a show that moves you, or at least stirs emotions that go far beyond "oh, that's really pretty."
Are you guys talking about the clothes or the runway show? Designers can do all types of tricks on the runway but at the end of the day people need to be able to wear the clothes in their everyday life. I'm less concerned about what takes place in a 20 minute show attended by a select few than what is actually available for my closet.

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20-02-2008
  23
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firstly i want say this is a great thread, i enjoyed reading everyone's comments as i rarely read all the comments.

ok, what i have to say is probably all over the place, since i suck at things like this. i just put down whatever that comes to my mind

i do have to say one of the reasons why i end up choosing to do men's wear design as a study is because i find the women's wear industry becoming wayyyyyyy too saturated and defined and boring. where as i find the less explored industries like knitswear, children's wear and men's wear more exciting for a designer than women's wear which is just filled with dead designer houses taking up the space.
im sure there are great visions out there but just not put forth into the spotlight. i have to say, Scott and susiebubble's blog does a great job at introducing indie, unknown designers, even if some of them i dont agree with aesthetically.

personal view on fashion...i think fashion should be wearable or worn afterall, or else it will just be costume. i think vision and fashion is a little different. vision lives in a designer's dreams, fashion lives in the wearer's dreams. the best way to go for now is to combine them both together. alexander mcqueen is a master at doing this. having both vision and fashion in one dose. i find it ridiculous that a designer have to take sides. it's like artists that take sides.
but of course, what exactly IS vision anyways? we have been talking about vision vision vision but no one really said anything about what their definition of vision is.

i also read talks about exclusivity. i find it interesting.
i know i am still young and all, but sometimes i debate whether i should keep my to-be house very small and exclusive to a loyal fan-base or go platinum. my intuition tells me i will be more content if i keep small

i find the fact that there is this danger excitement around the fashion industry to be interesting. this unknown lurking around the corner. i can naively say i want to change men's wear, i want to show more than what we see now on the runway. i want to show the things that other designers don't dare to show because they are men themselves. i want to make men's wear design and women's wear design into one. i want to design uni-sex fashion that makes me wonder how much further can i explore androgyny.

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20-02-2008
  24
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everything looks old

Suzy's ideas are old, Sarah's reviews are biased therefore old.. seems that almost everyone who has power is trapped in circle of safe statements... fashion critique is dead... who believes on those people?

nobody seems interested in really what matters and how to move on but just in big money translated into advertising as it still seems to be a keyword to understand contemporary thoughts.. again old ideas. Same models, same celebrities, same blah blah bla

the technological advancements of the fashion industry are rarely commented or praised, the "freedom of expression" which IMO should be the big statement of our times has been subdued in order to accommodate the commerce.

Almost everything seems pasteurized, minimized ( not in a nice way) , the same of the same, without identity... not to say coward.... designers seems to lost their ideals to make the naturally unhappy Mr Wintour Happy ... looking trough several runway images I have the sensation that what we call "trend" is a flourished way to say "I've seen this already" or " I can wear it without social disapproval"...

I'm bored... very bored.

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Last edited by esquire; 20-02-2008 at 07:59 AM.
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20-02-2008
  25
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I agree with you; I've stopped reading fashion reviews really unless they're by Cathy Horyn or Robin Givhan. They are two of the few journalists who are not afraid to piss of designers even if it gets them uninvited to shows like Armani. But they have journalistic integrity.

I am hoping for a point when fashion will blow up again and excite us and stop being so democratic. Lets face it we live in a world ruled by comglomerates who want everything to be available for the masses and so the clothes are watered down and everyone is too afraid to tell the king he is not wearing any clothes.

It feels like the 90's before grunge and heroine chic when everything was just pretty. Whether you liked it or not that era of provocative moved people and got them talking. We just need people have a vision and stick to it. I've allways wanted to be a visionary like Blow or Roitfeld.

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20-02-2008
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Maybe we just need more big editors, stylists and journalists who are truly in love with fashion as an expression of art meets commerce.

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20-02-2008
  27
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Great article. So the same thing that has happened to the models, is also happening to the designers. All hail the great global corporation.

Quote:
brand managers now believe that too much focus on the designer is detrimental, if that person then leaves, especially for another company

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20-02-2008
  28
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But designers aren't supposed to spoonfeed fashion to us!!

If one has any sense of personal style at all, they pick and choose pieces from here and there and put them together in a magnificently fresh way. It's not as if you're forced to wear the head to toe 'watered down' stuff.

I mean, the wearer can be a fashion visionary him/herself, no?

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20-02-2008
  29
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karma to fabulyss...

she's very right, even if the industry (ick... i hate that term for fashion) provides less creative material, one can always combine things in a new or astonishing way.

very well proven by the sartorialist, where often the pieces people wear are not so special by themselves but put together may blow you away.

and i might like to add: a few years ago everybody was going 'trends are an illusion' or 'styling and fashion has become so diverse... there are no rules anymore', which - at least in theory - was a wonderful thought... nowadays i get a feeling there is some kind of need inside people's heads back to this trend-orientated view of fashion... which i find truly sad and limiting...

just my 2 cents

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Last edited by palais_de_tokyo; 20-02-2008 at 12:24 PM. Reason: adding 'which i find truly sad and limiting...'
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20-02-2008
  30
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Whether it is visionary or not Fashion will never die. People will always shop and that is the bottom line.

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