Dior: The Borehouse - Page 12 - the Fashion Spot
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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even if most people think the last collections of Dior are not good, I would say that the brand is blossming and never lost its appeal, on the contrary, Galliano makes it always fresh, beautiful and exciting! The Dior campaigns always take the best pages in the best magazines and the shows are always a huge success...I see the Dior boutiques around the world filled with reach people shopping all the time, so who dares to say the past fw years were bad for Dior??? Come on people, we all know how everybody loves to critisize, but let somebody try to put together a collection such as any galliano collection...I do not think such person even exists!
What he said is really awfull, but it was more personal and he had been provoked by those evil women with the phone recording the fiasco...I bet they begged for it...most people would say such words and even more will think them, so whatever anybody says...he is just a human like most of us and we can all get into such situation! Thanks god I am not famous or I would spend most of my days in jail)lol

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It's maybe time to revive this thread....

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Well, not just yet, Lola! Let's first wait for HC. Like I've mentioned in my post, I'm not sure in which direction Maria want to steer the house into. Probably this will only be evident after a few campaigns (which she had part in), and a few more collections? I will add that if Maria thinks she can slide into Dior with merely an updated take on what she did for Valentino, she's in for a rude awakening. Can you imagine if Hedi goes to a new house and replicate exactly what he did at SLP? It's downright unethical in terms of creativity, I think. And I won't be surprised if Dior will very soon be up to their elbows in infringement lawsuits. I'd certainly be tremendously peed off if I was a Valentino suit.

Although not a very popular opinion on here, I think the Dior atelier and marketing team did a great job of weathering the transition period, and wiping traces of Raf's tenure (except Julia Nobis, of course. ). Everything is currently so inoffensive and basic that it will be very easy for Maria to make her mark. This extremely long gap we've had without a CD tells me that things may not have been all that dire for them to rush with someone new. Contrary to this would've meant that they lost money hand over foot, which I don't quite believe. If the atelier could keep regular customers happy (most likely the regular customer stemming from the Galliano era, as I tend to think whatever clientele Raf may have had most likely left with him), and accessories sell unabated, then why rush to fill the position?

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My gut feeling says it isn't getting better, just the same I'm afraid, with some more embellishments, embroidery etc for HC. I hope I'm wrong, but I don't think so.

welcome to the inner workings of my mind
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The problem hasn't changed at all despite the fact that the house is now on its third creative director in the last two decades, and it's very unlikely that it will change because the problem really started while its most unabashedly creative designer was still there. Sure, Galliano had his breakdown and suddenly a part of why we were witnessing an increasingly stale, progressively more conservative image from the house became crystal clear -- because he wasn't functioning in his role to the best of his abilities and because other people within the brand and the corporation which owns it were exerting more control over their designer -- became clear.

That increase in control over the creative side of the business couldn't possibly have been a new thing simply in response to Galliano's downward spiral. You cannot tell me that the decision to, say, scale back the Haute Couture presentations, or to turn the ready to wear presentations into a much more straightforwardly commercial parade of boutique-ready clothing was due entirely to creative choices on Galliano's part. It may have started that way as something like a creative challenge for him, or a way to hit the proverbial reset button on his imagination, but it's just a little too convenient that within six months of showing one of his worst reviewed ready to wear collections, the Teddy Boy collection of 2004, his entire output changed, even in Haute Couture where he'd usually been given carte blanche to design whatever he liked simply because it made the house look good. He may have shown some beautiful and occasionally creative collections after that time -- the transparent couture collection, the heavy metal revolutionary ready to wear collection, the Madame Butterfly couture collection -- but the era of Galliano as King effectively ended with the Egyptian collection, thanks in no small part to the powers that be putting a muzzle on their prized show dog not long after it.

I think the choice of Raf after Galliano was proof of their altered priorities. Under him the clothes in stores were rarely threatening, or unusual, or avant garde. They weren't even particularly high fashion if the few times I went into the stores were any indication. The presentations were artsy on the surface without actually being too artsy. The advertising was straightforward. It was an easily packaged, easily marketed product that may have sold at times but never really lit a fuse and made Dior into the commercial and critical powerhouse it had been circa the year 2000/2001. There were no cult bags, no must-have shoes, no bombastic, infinitely popular perfumes. And the choice of Maria Grazia Chiuri is a totally safe choice that won't do a whole lot to upset that status quo or change the script. She'll churn out dependable collections of the sort of pretty but totally unsurprising clothes she delivered at Valentino, along with, maybe, a single shoe design that can be spun off into countless tiresome iterations along the way, and three years from now if the public is still buying, they'll keep her on.

At the end of the day Dior is run by a group of people who are the definition of conservative. They're not young or even youthful, they're not creative, they're not particularly advanced in their tastes and they likely wouldn't know how to dress a woman if their life depended on it, yet none of those clear cut facts have stopped them from interfering in a process that they have only a bare bones understanding of. The house they clearly all set out to guard from the evils of controversy, of alienating a demographic somewhere, is exactly what they've caused it to become. If it wasn't for the fact that anonymous, design team-led collections from major brands routinely get bad reviews, I highly doubt they'd bother handing anybody the title of artistic director anymore. At this house at least, the days of headline-making creativity and boundary pushing design are dead. Frankly, that they happened at all should be seen as something of a shock.

You need to move fashion forward when there's a reason to move fashion forward - Tom Ford

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Yes, now it's official, The Borehouse...

Last edited by whitewine82; 24-01-2017 at 07:07 PM.
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I can't believe this thread was made in 2009. If only people knew about Dior's future!

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Chanel is equally boring in my opinion, but at least it's STEADY and boring. Dior is anything but steady at the moment.

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I thought Dior was really boring under Raf's tenure, but I have to admit I love Maria's designs. They might not be anything new when you think about what she did at Valentino, but boy are they pretty to look at Definitely a guilty pleasure for me.

Last edited by domenica; 26-02-2018 at 04:29 PM.
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Originally Posted by domenica View Post
I thought Dior was really boring under Raf's tenure, but I have to admit I love Maria's designs. They might not be anything new when you think about what she did at Valentino, but boy are they pretty to look at Definitely a guilty pleasure for me.
agreed...this title isn't relevant anymore
but dior has certainly become relevant again...

gorgeous, in fact...

"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."

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4 Weeks Ago
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I bet MGC will never renew her contract and Kim Jones will eventually take the helm. Dior Homme and Womenswear will become a single entity through one artistic director.

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