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13-07-2009
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I hope they read all of these post because there are some good things mntioned in here...its funny to me how John Galliano is something new and different everytime, and I know that show is going to excite me whether its the set, make-up or clothes..but for Dior its like he isn't even designing it anymore..its as if Arnault sucked all the creativity out of Dior and gave an old lady the permission to design clothing..and Arnault is really hurting the brand if he keeps regulating Dior like this

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Last edited by TREVOFASHIONISTO; 13-07-2009 at 11:21 AM.
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13-07-2009
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The thing with Dior is that it's something of an institution, together with only Chanel I think. It's been around for eons, it excelled in the highdays of couture and redefined the face of fashion in the early fifties late forties. That feel of 'Dior as a phenomena' in French culture or fashion's culture is what Arnault tries to keep alive. It all started with the appointment of Galliano in the first place. What Arnault (and all LVMH executives) wanted was a designer to bring back that redefining power the house of Dior once had. And it worked! Yet again, Dior was THE number fashion house for LVMH. I don't know if it still is nowadays when we talk financials, but one thing is clear: the redefinement of fashion is no longer something that fits the brand. It's back to it's stuffy mid-nineties self.

This makes me wonder....when we compare what Galliano does for Dior and for his own line, it's like he pumps his creativity and inspiration into his own line mostly (this statement is debatable, cause not everyone saw the creativity in FW 0910 for example)...is John Galliano as a brand owned by LVMH as welll? I really have no idea

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13-07-2009
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^ I think they own part of it, or at least have some financial stake in it.

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13-07-2009
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^I don't know: it just seems like maybe Arnault feels the need to.

I mean, I cannot be the only one who looks at those satin lady Dior bags and clutches and think 'these are the cheapest things I have ever seen in my life'... they are not worthy of the Dior name. And yes, I am sure Arnault can be difficult, but a canvas bag with red piping or whatever it is sound scary coming from Dior. I watched his interaction with Marc for instance in that documentary (the one I know you have also seen Spike) and he seems to be a person who enjoys control, but also someone who lets designers explore different fields and creative outlets as long as the product at the end looks flashy enough to sell.

Dior just looks so all over the place. They are cutting teh most expensive couture gowns in the business, yet also manage to sell a 750 dollar red canvas bag. It seems like some of the products, fragrance releases, especially teh fashion jewelry segments look simply too crappy to be called high-end. And what is worse, today's Dior reminds me of 80s and early 90s YSL with tons of cheap products manufactured by licensing companies, selling YSL flip-flops for 20 dollars.

I would be even content with boring and dated, if the garments looked spectacular and supremely expensive looking. Fashion changes, maybe the days of the crazy Dior was meant to end. Like Giorgio Armani says, 'explosions are explosions: they end quick and leave behind only ashes...' It is true. Maybe the Gisele-Rhea Dior girl will never be back... ever. But if Galliano and Arnault want to place this brand to a more mature place, then they must deliver high quality and supreme taste along with it. Not with lavender suits with leopard collars, tranny make-up just to make things look edgy and shapeless dresses that look like sleepwear.

One final thing: Galliano works with and through inspirations: the basic 'paint by the numbers' system. It may be China, Egypt, Arabia, Russia, Austria, Greece, Turkey, 50s, 60s, origami, Marie Antoinette, Josephine, Edie, Rastafaria, the homeless... whatever. He did a marvelous job with aoll, that is another issue. But his best collections came from these one inspiration and apply it all over the place and exhaust it so much that the sheer spectacle alone would be enough to dazzle everyone. Maybe he cannot find anything new to 'get inspired' from, because he did it all, and again and again. Maybe his sketchpad is finished. And maybe now, he is struggling to come up with anything fresh after all this time, so he is clinging onto this lame 'New Look' and Monsieur's archives crap.

It would be a scary though, but maybe true...

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13-07-2009
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I don't minding putting those old "new look" essence into collections
but i would love to see new look in a very modern and abstract way.
and dior rarely use prints...

and Pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee mass-destruct the Lady Dior bags
I'm sick of them....
i will rather carry a saddle bag (meant for russian whores maybe eventhough...)

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13-07-2009
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srsly, the single quote
Quote:
“If you tell me so, sir,” Galliano answers.
says it all.

and Chanel released those totally pukeworthily hideous "Chanel Unlimited" canvas bags. i'd say a red trimmed canvas bags with Dior charms wouldn't have been the worst idea ever. i mean, it can't get worse than "Dior Golf". (I'll defend Dior Rasta with my life cause i loved the whole craziness of it )

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13-07-2009
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First off I wanna say that I love the House of Dior and John no matter what but...

Something is happing with Dior Couture, u can feel it. His RTW collections are fine and seem to be selling but the couture collection dont have that Galliano insperation that they used to have. Now this last season was not horrid, it was just missing the Galliano touch. And it weird that right after the 60th Anniversiy of f the House and John 10th anniversiy that this change started to happen. Look at the collection from 2007 and back and then look at the ones now. There is a clear disconnect and it started in F/W 2008 HC.

That was a good new collection but it lacked what we have seen before and I could have done with out SS 2009 HC. I dont really hate that John is doing these classical inspired collections but where is John in these collections. I think that SS 2008 was the last collection that was truly John. And I think some of it has to do with Arnault. He seems to be in control of alot and has his own vision of what he wants this house be, and its not the same as Johns vision.

This last collection even though I loved it, it seems to be really safe. There are only a few hints of John true creativity in it. He is not putting out horrible collections, because the garments are quite beautiful, there just lacking John. And maybe the world economic situation has something to do with it aswell, Im just guessing. All of this really make me want to see the RTW collection. Because SS 2009 was VERY John Galliano, so I want to see what will happen this season.

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13-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasha View Post
Maybe he cannot find anything new to 'get inspired' from, because he did it all, and again and again. Maybe his sketchpad is finished. And maybe now, he is struggling to come up with anything fresh after all this time, so he is clinging onto this lame 'New Look' and Monsieur's archives crap.

It would be a scary though, but maybe true...
it can't be true. that last eponymous menswear collection was so inspired, i'm still looking back at it to understand the references. the same goes for his womenswear. seriously, he's bursting with inspiration and creativity and it's clear that's getting stifled.

to return to an earlier point, i can understand why they may want to elevate dior to a brand that competes with chanel since chanel is so wildly popular -- mainly because it has so many access points -- however i don't think you compete with a brand like chanel by becoming another chanel. movie stars ALREADY did dior -- hello charlize theron for j'adore dior -- and dior has lots of revenue streams they could just make better. i don't think suffocating this creativity makes good business sense. honestly, we're seeing the same thing take place at dior homme....are we seriously saying dior homme under kriss van asshe (sp?) is better than under hedi slimane?

i feel like that's how marked the difference is between the old galllino collections and this new dreg.

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13-07-2009
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Wow! A lot of opinions. I've got ideas, too, but with doubts...
First of all, i never touched a Dior gown, so i can't comment on the quality.
The range of our Dior boutique isn't very interesing. They had a lot of simple suits, so its potential costumers are businesswomen. (Not me, who adore the fantasy world of John, no.) I know, the range decided by the boutique owner, and her/his taste, but that's clear Dior makes too much suits. So if i'm not in the target, what i want from them???
Dior is for women 45+. Not for me. Ok, i love John with my whole heart, but that's another thing. We have to separate the heart and the mind. (the mind would buy Dior, the heart would buy John Galliano)

On the other side, people bores anything. I'm boring the Chanel tweed coats, you're boring the Dior things. That's the normal.

I found very funny that the English shop-owner does the WAGs for the standard. If that Coleen C*w wears Juicy Couture, Juicy Couture is the nonplusultra. This is snobbery... This is pathetic.

I see there's something wrong at the Dior, but don't think Galliano is blighted. He's almost 50. He's in the changing age. That's normal he got better and worse period.

I remembered, Toledano said that Dior has to be the privilege of the rich people. Their T-shirts were too cheap and too available. So they changed the trend. This is the result of the changes...

On the red Dior bag story: there was an interview with John some years ago where it cleared he's not as Yes, sir / Thanks, sir man... He has got a strong personality and a big ego. So i don't think he gives up his ideas as easily. I don't regret him, he's not as pigeon-minded person i think...

All my opinion just a theory so i'm sure there's a lot of mistake in them.

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13-07-2009
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Quote:
the mind would buy Dior, the heart would buy John Galliano

That is a fantastic line, I must say. Bravo.


Quote:
it can't be true. that last eponymous menswear collection was so inspired, i'm still looking back at it to understand the references. the same goes for his womenswear. seriously, he's bursting with inspiration and creativity and it's clear that's getting stifled.

Was it really?

It was the same thing he does season after season... the horny pirates wearing layer on top of layer out for danger, sex and adventure... It is the same show every season since God knows when. Nothing new.


Quote:
i don't think suffocating this creativity makes good business sense. honestly, we're seeing the same thing take place at dior homme....are we seriously saying dior homme under kriss van asshe (sp?) is better than under hedi slimane?

Nobody knows what happened with Slimane, so it is futile to discuss him and his ventures over at LVMH... if I were Arnault, I would never ever let him leave, but maybe something happened so unavoidable that he had to go... Tom/Gucci, or Phoebe/Chloe anyone? These things do happen: it is business after all.


Quote:
movie stars ALREADY did dior -- hello charlize theron for j'adore dior -- and dior has lots of revenue streams they could just make better.

Charlize was Dior's answer for Nicole. Not that original I must say.

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13-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasha View Post
It was the same thing he does season after season... the horny pirates wearing layer on top of layer out for danger, sex and adventure... It is the same show every season since God knows when. Nothing new.
while there's a clear throughline with the menswear at galliano, it's too reductionist to call it all the same.



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Quote:
Nobody knows what happened with Slimane, so it is futile to discuss him and his ventures over at LVMH... if I were Arnault, I would never ever let him leave, but maybe something happened so unavoidable that he had to go...
while it's futile to discuss what happened to slimane, it's not futile to talk about the obvious differences between dior homme then, dior homme now, and the eponymous collection of van asshe. the type of creative stifling we witness on the galliano side of the aisle evidences itself in the subpar work at dior homme as well. seriously, kris van asshe held such promise when he got appointed to the house and we got SO let down witnessing collection after collection of stuff that bore little to no resemblence to his eponymous work.

Quote:
Tom/Gucci, or Phoebe/Chloe anyone? These things do happen: it is business after all.
and i bet a million dollars both gucci group and richemont would have done things differently in both of those circumstances respectively. i know ysl would sell a few more perfumes if they didn't have to go head-to-head with each new tom ford venture. gucci would sell a few more sunglasses. and we all saw what happened to chloe after phoebe. there are good business decisions and bad ones. the chloe transition from stella to phoebe? good business decision. the chloe transition from phoebe to paulo? not so much.

Quote:
Charlize was Dior's answer for Nicole. Not that original I must say.
the point is that dior already has the cachet to attract a-list talent in response to the moviestars-as-spokespeople statement:

Quote:
But now, it seems Dior tries to position its image and place in the luxury industry against Chanel with much more sell-able couture, endless cosmetic and fragrance releases, fine jewelry, skincare, make-up, RtW and costume jewelry, moviestars as spokespeople etc. etc....
i don't think the best path for a dior to gain marketshare or increase sales is to try to become another chanel. it's good in its own right.

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15-07-2009
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Wow i didn't know i would enjoy reading all of the comments so much.

Truthfully, i have this feeling that Galliano actually cares about Dior less than any of you who have spent time to dissect the situation, right now.
Boredom, maybe? Or just no more passion for the company/brand, for whatever reasons.

It's such a harrowing thought but i think Dior only has the possibility of change and improvements (like the suggestions previous posters have brought up) when Galliano is replaced by someone else. (That's if you want to revamp the brand.) After all, it'll mark a new beginning and the mass will pay attention to the label once again, due to the press it will garner or just simply due to this drastic change.

I'm actually truly sad that Dior as a fashion house has such a reputation right now...
I wonder how Christian Dior himself would feel about his name being eponymous with "russian prostitute"-style clothings.
I only bother to care about it because i really loved Christian Dior as a designer and i can't even bear to think how many clueless people don't know about him and his works and just have got some of the craps they're selling now to link his name to.

I never really liked Galliano as a designer that much... so i can't really say what he's doing now that's so appalling without not referring to his works in his heyday.
He was and still is an extremely talented designer to many people... but i personally think it's right to replace him.
After all, he still has his namesake label to showcase his talents. People who love him can still see his works (which he has at least put in more effort and passion into). And people who really want to retain at least some integrity to Christian Dior's name... can proudly walk past Dior boutiques without rolling their eyes.

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16-07-2009
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Firstly can I just commend this thread, it's been a long time coming and lets hope at least one fat cat over at Dior has a tFS username. Now I'm sure others would claim similar, but I'd go as far as to say I am one of John Galliano's biggest fans, Spent hours sourcing articles from as far back as 1997, crossed the english channel to visit his shop on the saint-honoree, hell I've even considered stalking (I stopped at that one) so I am as disheartened as anyone with this situation, this very very sad situation. No one has ever and I doubt will ever make me feel the way he has done, discovering Galliano for Dior was one of the defining moments in my life and certainly the catalyst for my love of fashion.

I have a question...

Many of tFS users concur that 2004 was one of Gallianos better years, his F/W 2004 ready-to-wear show for Dior is my all time favorite collection. It was in my and I beleive the opinion of others from here where things started to go down hill, there were some promising moments in 2005 and 2006 and his madame butterfly couture collection in 2007 was sensational. But it wasn't just Dior where the magic was lost, people have raved about recent collections at Galliano but lets not kid ourselves, they were not the same, it may hve been a different Galliano that appealed to a new fan but for Die hard Gallianoites they will know in their heart of simply wasn't the same.

Therefore can any of the LVMH/Bernard Arnault arguments have any credibility? I know it was suggested in this thread that perhaps Galliano in part is owned by LVMH/Bernard Arnault which could answer this question but I tned to know a lot on this subject and this is the first I have heard of it, the only argument I would have in favuor was up until 2005 some of his collection was being sold on eluxury, the notorious (ly tacky) designer website.

I don't think the argument that Galliano ran out of points of inspiration is particurly credible either, what happened to the collection inspired by high-tech down town tokyo, the ottoman empire, or english eccentrics, I don't think its possible to run out of inspiration more likely to stop being inspired.

Also of note has anyone noticed in videos for style.com etc how down he sounds when talking to Tim et al. I think something has certainly happened but whether its personal/proffesional I'm not sure, I often argued the can of Robinson but there were signs of this long before his death and as sad a loss it was Galliano still has many of his long term team around him.

I'm thinking maybe we're in a transitional period for Galliano, Just sadly I can't identify what he might transition in to.

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16-07-2009
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I just wish Galliano will just STOP with the "theme", "tranny models" and "show" and get on with the DESIGN of the clothes, different shapes, proportions, cut, construction, textures, materials, anything. He is doing the same "costumes" over and over, the embellishments just different each time according to the theme, Geisha, Marie Antoinette, etc. For once, I wish he'd send out models with no makeup and just let the clothes speak for themselves. That alone will look fresh, and elegant.

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16-07-2009
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not to destroy your thesis Master Wood, but Dior RTW was sold on eluxury up until it closed as an online shop and became that..... *new thing*. whatever that might be.

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