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12-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arlekindearrabal View Post
I'm refering to designers such as Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone.

What do you think?
Yes,

All of the above and I'd add Altuzarra to the list.

However I will say, with Wang, as much as I hate his runway collections, his T line is pretty great and has really made an impact as casual and sport influenced dressing goes on the rise. In that regard, he's one of the most relevant designers to have come out of New York in the last 10 years.

Also with Wu, while his vision is limited, I do think he does a great job at making clothes for his customer.

The rest? Well, none of them seem to have much to say or the eloquence to say it.

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13-10-2012
  17
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The new Rodarte Starbucks card gives me a strong urge to say yes ...

But I think perhaps we're just more aware of these designers because of strong support from the First Lady and Anna Wintour, plus there's less competition from the older designers in NY than in Paris. They are successful, but they aren't turning out stunning, breath-taking collections that would put anyone else in the shade.

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16-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutterlein View Post
Yes,

All of the above and I'd add Altuzarra to the list.

However I will say, with Wang, as much as I hate his runway collections, his T line is pretty great and has really made an impact as casual and sport influenced dressing goes on the rise. In that regard, he's one of the most relevant designers to have come out of New York in the last 10 years.

Also with Wu, while his vision is limited, I do think he does a great job at making clothes for his customer.

The rest? Well, none of them seem to have much to say or the eloquence to say it.
How could I forget about Joseph Altuzarra? A guy that basically owns his career to Nicolas Ghesquiere's past work at Balenciaga (he among several other designers).

I also agree about Wang, he really hit a nerve with his diffusion lines, and tbh, at times I find coherent looks and pieces among his homages.

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16-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolajazz View Post
There is a new guard in these towns (Guillaume Henry or Christophe Lemaire in Paris for instance ... ).

In Paris, the problem is that it's real hard to get the attention when there are so many famous and wonderful houses (which is not NY's case). It's easier to be seen in NY when you start in this business ... And young designers in Paris also suffer from not being actually supported by the fashion press (Anna Wintour did a lot for the new guard in NY ...).
I concur: compared to Paris, NY is lacking truly iconic, reputable names. I'd agree that this would make it harder for young designers to make their mark. The only new designer that immediately jumped to mind was Hakaan, but as seeing he only moved from London to Paris after winning the ANDAM prize, and he has the support of Vogue Paris, it's hardly casualty that it was so.

Would love to hear more about your insights on Paris' nouvelle garde.

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30-11-2012
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With Alexander Wang's appointment with Balenciaga, I curious if anyone has rethought this topic? NY designers are continually underrated but when all is said in done designers like Alex Wang and Proenza Schouler are able to make great high fashion yet have it still be commercial and saleable. Established fashion houses looking not to fade into irrelevancy with a lack of commercially viable collections will likely have more eyes on NY talent.

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07-12-2012
  21
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The NY fashion scene is more about wearability and popularity (in order to sell) rather than design and high-end creativity. It has a very different mindset than Paris, for instance.

At the end, fashion is a business and its target should be fitting with customers taste in order to generate profits.

Take Balenciaga, Guesquiere made the brand famous through a very creative approach but hasn't done enough in sales... that's why Alex Wang is a good choice, business-wise... regarding the creative part, we'll see in february...but I don't have high expectations.

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24-03-2013
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Well, it seems Wang delivered, at least on his first outing as creative director of Balenciaga.

Even though, I feel he played it by Ghesquiere's blueprint, and in that sense, it takes away from his achievement. Spring/Summer 2014 womenswear will be another interesting Paris season, for sure.

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