Does the wheel of fashion spin too fast? - Page 2 - the Fashion Spot
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sandusky
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Originally Posted by rip_ian curtis View Post
I think it does.

I find the real problems are that the creativity level has dropped tremendously, and that's why fashion looks like one big thing at the time more than ever before. There's one or two "leaders" of the pack at the time (for example Phoebe Philos Céline for a prolonged period of time now) and that is what majority of the designers imitate simply because they have no time to sit and think themselves. Also, ecologically thinking it's alarming to think what avalanche of production can one innocent small-scale resort or pre-fall collection create when all the high street chains copy them at the scale of 100 compared to the original collection. If there's four or six show seasons to copy per year we can all imagine what amount of clothes are produced per year, luxury market and high-street combined. And clothing production from scratch is a big, BIG factor in pollution and natural resource consumption.

I think Raf Simons is spot on when he talks about appreciation of clothes today. Internet for the most part is one to blame for this phenomenon, as we can see everything right the second they're shown, and next week we are already bored with it. And it's dizzying how all this has happened in the last 8 years. Come to think of it, living in the 90's I didn't even know when exactly fashion weeks were happening and what was shown there. Maybe French and other fashion capital people saw a couple of pictures in the newspaper next day, but I had to wait for Vogue catwalk issue for several months after the collections had been shown. There was real magic there. I'm not sure if we will ever get back to those days Raf was talking about, internet is here to stay.
Except the fashion world could have chosen to use immediate internet consumption differently. Rather than interpret it as 'instant gratification, need to produce more now now now,' they could have instead brought attention to the details, to the WHY we should all want this or that item now, why we should VALUE said products. And want it for months. It was the fashion world that choose instead to think they had produce more, make more, and have more collections. They went for the quantity approach instead of the quality approach. What's ironic is that the net is available to basically everyone, making the quality approach so easy had they chosen to use it.

And, media will always transform things. We went from mailmen who took months to deliver letters on horseback across a continent to telegrams/wireless where things got send in a matter of hours, to the TV, to the internet. Fashion was always going to be more... accessible... as media transformed to enable people to know about the broader world. However, (high) fashion prides itself on being elite and INaccessible and so rather catch up to the times, they instead have chosen to give up cheapness and higher prices for stagnated creativity rather than a more inclusiveness. (I don't feel I have explained myself very well, but hopefully the gist of it makes sense.)

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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Montreal
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Originally Posted by iluvjeisa View Post
This is understandable but there is a simple solution.

Instead of having the star designer design F/W, S/S, Resort, Couture, Cruise, Pre-Fall, Pre-Spring etc etc etc - why not just have the star designer design F/W, S/S and Couture (where applicable) and he can have one or two younger designers who he works with, but who are responsible for all the rest and who gets credit for the rest?

Surely, in practice I guess it must work like that? It doesn't really seem like it, though...with all these burn-outs.

Why does there have to be one single auteur?
A more collective approach does seem sensible, indeed (i.e. having apprentice or junior designers be in charge of secondary collections). But could the choice to use a single auteur be because high fashion aligns with high art, and the logic of art demands a single author/painter/composer?

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Join Date: Jul 2005
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I haven't read Suzy's article that's mentioned, but I don't understand why I have to accept that the pace of fashion is a root cause of what happened with John Galliano.

Alber Elbaz does pre-fall, etc., and really enjoys presenting those smaller collections in an intimate way. He works all the time, but you don't see him going off the deep end. And there are plenty of other designers with their heads screwed on straight too.

Granted, fashion doesn't set a leisurely pace ... it may not be a sanity-encouraging environment. But there are plenty of examples of designers who are absolutely sane and have balance in their lives (exhibit A: Dries van Noten).

Personally I think what's happened with the designers named has far more to do with what's going on between their ears than what's going on in the fashion world.

There's a need for more individuality today, and my job is to cater to women, not dictate to them.
--Alber Elbaz
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: London, UK
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Fashion is certainly too fast in our hyper-commercial world. I think that social media contributes to this increased desire to consume - people don't want to be documented wearing the same items all the time and there's also a heightened sense of 'keeping up with the Jones's'. Designers at all levels are falling over themselves to satisfy these needs and remain visible and grow profits in an over-saturated market.

I find it extremely problematic. Firstly, this cycle has confused people as to the difference between want and need, and encourages them to spend beyond their means (not just in fashion, I should add). Secondly, as has been mentioned, it diminishes the creativity and 'specialness' of the collections, as new becomes old so fast. Thirdly, general resources are limited and people need to change their thinking about the way they consume in order to ensure that future generations can enjoy a good quality of life.

As an individual, it can be very hard to retain your sense of self when encouraged to buy into new trends every few weeks. I've had to set myself very strict rules so that I'm not tempted to throw away money on items that I don't love.

Last edited by cultofcloth; 14-09-2014 at 10:44 AM.
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