Fashion and Responsibility - Ethical questions - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
 
How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Fashion... In Depth
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
06-11-2014
  31
V.I.P.
 
BerlinRocks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MilkyWay-Pluto-Earth
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,298
Here is a funny thing ...

Quote:
Les tee-shirts mauriciens de la honte
publié le 5 novembre 2014 16h41

"Voici à quoi ressemble une féministe". Ce slogan imprimé sur des tee-shirts fabriqués à Maurice et porté par des parlementaires anglais est revenu comme un boomerang dans la figure de Fawcett, une association britannique de défense des droits des femmes fondée en 1866 qui les avaient commandés. Les ouvrières sont payées un salaire de misère et logées dans des conditions indignes.


Avec le magazine Elle, Fawcett avait décidé de lancer une campagne afin de récolter des fonds. L’association avait fait appel à une grande marque de prêt-à-porter anglaise, Whistles. La démarche de Fawcett avait séduit de très nombreux parlementaires anglais, dont le vice-Premier ministre Nick Clegg, qui avait accepté de porter le fameux tee-shirt lors des questions au Premier ministre.

Tout ce petit monde a été plongé dans l’embarras dimanche dernier en découvrant la Une du The Mail on sunday. Notre confrère Ben Ellery a enquêté sur place.

La Compagnie mauricienne de textile (CMT) produit 40 millions de tee-shirts par an dans ses six usines mauriciennes pour des marques comme Topshop, Suivant et Urban Outfitters. Elle emploie 13 000 salariés dont 2 800 femmes. Plus de 4 000 des ouvriers sont des étrangers logés sur place. Ils viennent du Bangladesh, du Sri Lanka, d’Inde et du Vietnam. La CMT a déjà été épinglée en 2007 pour avoir sous-payé ses ouvriers.

Le directeur général de CMT François Woo a non seulement fait visiter ses usines à Nick Clegg mais également les dortoirs où il loge ses ouvrières. Il assume. "Ils correspondent aux résidences universitaires chinoises. Elles n’ont pas besoin de beaucoup de place dans la mesure où elles ne font qu’y dormir. Je suis comme un parent pour mes ouvriers. Ils sont libres d’aller et venir à leur guise, mais s'ils sortent un soir je ne suis pas content car je ne veux pas qu’ils soient saouls le lendemain au travail. Si les gens ne veulent pas travailler pour nous, rien ne les y oblige. S'ils ont la possibilité de gagner plus ailleurs, ils peuvent partir. »

120 euros par mois pour 35 h par semaine

Les ouvrières que Nick Clegg a pu rencontrer ne partagent pas l’enthousiasme de M. Woo. "Comment ce tee-shirt pourrait-il symboliser le féminisme ?" , confient-elles indignées en référence au slogan. "Nous ne sommes pas des féministes. Nous sommes prises au piège". Elles gagnent 6 000 roupies par mois, l’équivalent de 120 euros soit le quart du salaire mensuel moyen de Maurice, la moitié de ce que gagne un serveur. Il leur faudrait deux semaines de salaires pour se payer un seul des 900 tee-shirts sortis de l’usine à 9 livres et revendus 45 livres par Whistles.

"Je travaille ici depuis quatre ans et je n’ai jamais pu rentrer voir mon mari et mon fils au Bangladesh. Nous travaillons très dur, parfois 12 heures par jour, 45 heures par semaine. Nous devons produire environ 50 chemises par jour. Des mesures disciplinaires sont prévues si nous ne réalisons pas ce quota. J’envoie tout ce que je gagne à ma famille. Nous n’avons pas le choix. Les roupies que je gagne ici valent trois fois celles que je pourrais gagner au Bengladesh", confie une ouvrière.

"Les travailleurs de cette usine sont très mal traités. Le fait que des politiciens en Angleterre portent ces tee-shirts est épouvantable", souligne un syndicaliste mauricien.

Fawcett et Whistles sont gênés aux entournures. Fawcett affirme que la marque de prêt-à-porter lui avait affirmé que les tee-shirts seraient fabriqués en Grande-Bretagne. En découvrant qu’ils venaient de Maurice, l’association aurait reçu l’assurance qu’ils avaient été produits dans le respect des règles sociales et éthiques. Fawcett s’est engagé à retirer la gamme de tee-shirts et à reverser l’argent déjà récolté à une organisation de commerce équitable. Jane Shepherdson fondatrice de Whistles est d’autant plus mal à l’aise qu’elle n’avait pas hésité à affirmer : "Les clients ne peuvent pas continuer à acheter des vêtements bon marché sans se soucier de leur provenance".

Alain Dupuis
clicanoo.re

---
Google Translation

Quote:
" This is what a feminist looks like ." This slogan printed on T-shirts manufactured in Mauritius and supported by English parliamentary came back like a boomerang in the figure of Fawcett, a British association for the defense of the rights of women founded in 1866 that had ordered the Tshirts. The workers are paid a pittance and housed in inhumane conditions.


With Elle magazine , Fawcett decided to launch a campaign to raise funds. The association had appealed to a large ready- to-wear English, Whistles . Fawcett 's approach had attracted many English parliamentarians, including Deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg, who had agreed to wear the famous shirt during questions to the Prime Minister .

This little world was plunged into embarrassment last Sunday by reading the front page of The Mail on sunday . Our colleague Ben Ellery investigated instead.

Mauritian Textile Company ( CMT ) produces 40 million T-shirts a year in its six plants in Mauritius for brands such as Topshop, Next and Urban Outfitters. It employs 13,000 employees including 2,800 women. More than 4,000 workers are foreigners staying there. They come from Bangladesh, Sri Lanka , India and Vietnam. CMT has been pinned in 2007 for underpaid its workers.

The CEO of CMT François Woo has not only visit its factories to Nick Clegg but also dormitories where it houses its workers. It assumes . " They correspond to the Chinese university residences . They do not need much space to the extent that they do is sleep . I'm like a parent for my workers . They are free to come and go as they please but if they go out one night I 'm not happy because I do not want them to be drunk the next day at work. If people do not want to work for us, nothing obliges them . If they have the opportunity earn more elsewhere , they can leave. "

120 euros per month for 35 hours per week

The workers Nick Clegg met do not share the enthusiasm of Mr. Woo . " How does this shirt could it symbolize feminism ? " Entrust they indignant reference to the slogan . " We are not feminists. We're trapped ." They earn 6000 rupees per month , the equivalent of 120 euros a quarter of the average monthly salary of Mauritius, half of what wins a server. It would take two weeks of wages to pay one of the 900 out of the factory to 9 pounds T-shirts and sold 45 books by Whistles .

"I 've been here four years and I 've never been able to go see my husband and son in Bangladesh. We are working very hard, sometimes 12 hours a day , 45 hours per week . We need to produce about 50 shirts a day. The disciplinary measures are provided if we do not achieve this quota. I send everything I make to my family. We have no choice. the rupee I earn here worth three times that I could win in Bangladesh " says a worker.

"The workers of this factory are treated very badly . The fact that politicians in England are these t -shirts is terrible ," said a Mauritian trade unionist.

Fawcett and Whistles are embarrassed at the seams . Fawcett says that the ready -to-wear had told him that T-shirts are manufactured in Great Britain. Discovering they had Maurice , the association would have been assured that they were produced in accordance with the social and ethical rules. Fawcett is committed to removing the range of T-shirts and donate the money already collected a fair trade organization . Jane Shepherdson of Whistles founder is all the more uncomfortable she did not hesitate to say : "Customers can not keep buying cheap clothes regardless of their origin ."

  Reply With Quote
06-11-2014
  32
V.I.P.
 
BerlinRocks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MilkyWay-Pluto-Earth
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,298
Here is another article, where Fawcett says it is false ...

Quote:
Feminist T-shirts made in ethical conditions, says Fawcett Society
Charity behind ‘This is what a feminist looks like’ shirts says evidence refutes Mail claims they were made in a sweatshop

The women’s rights charity behind the “This is what a feminist looks like” T-shirts worn by politicians including Harriet Harman and Ed Miliband has rejected claims that the garments were made in a sweatshop.

The Mail on Sunday reported that the shirts were being made by female workers in Mauritius who were paid just 62p an hour.

However, the Fawcett Society said it had seen “expansive and current evidence” from the retailer Whistles that the factory owned by Compagnie Mauricienne de Textile (CMT) where the shirts were made conformed to ethical standards. They were designed and produced by the fashion chain, in collaboration with Elle magazine, and sell for £45.

Eva Neitzert, deputy chief executive of the society, said: “The evidence we have seen categorically refutes the assertion that the ‘This is what a feminist looks like’ T-shirts produced by Whistles were made in a sweatshop. An audit into the CMT factory was carried out in October 2014 by an independent not-for-profit organisation and this did not reveal any material concerns on the working conditions, the welfare or the health and safety of workers.”

Nevertheless, she said, Fawcett was working with an international trade union body to examine the evidence so they could be “absolutely assured of its provenance, authenticity and that all findings are robust and factual”.

The charity would continue to work with Elle and Whistles on the project.

According to the Fawcett statement, there was evidence that:

• All workers were paid above the official minimum wage and that their wages reflected their skills and years of service.

• The standard working week was 45 hours, and workers were paid for any overtime.

• Workers could join a union and there was a union presence at the factory.

• Staff turnover levels were low and workers were offered training and development.

Whistles said in a statement that it was committed to ethical sourcing policies and demanded the highest standards from its suppliers, carrying out regular audits of them, including unannounced visits and independent audits.

A company statement said: “Whistles will continue to work with CMT to review the pay and work conditions at their factory. We are taking this opportunity to undertake additional reviews of all our suppliers.”

Lorraine Candy, editor-in-chief of UK Elle, said: “Based on a detailed and current independent audit of the factory where the T-shirts were made, that we have seen today, we are confident that their production conforms to ethical standards.”

Neitzert said on Sunday that the society had originally been told that the shirts would be produced ethically in the UK. When samples were received in early October they noted that they had been made in Mauritius.

Laura Harvey, lecturer in the sociology of media at the University of Surrey, criticised the newspaper’s report. “It was a cynical political move against an important feminist campaigning organisation. If the Daily Mail really cares about workers’ rights why aren’t they running stories about the garment industry more widely and the campaigns to improve worker’s rights?” she told the Guardian.

Harman wore one of the shirts during prime minister’s questions in the Commons to embarrass David Cameron after he refused to wear one, unlike Miliband and the Lib Dem leader, Nick Clegg.
theguardian.com

  Reply With Quote
02-12-2014
  33
V.I.P.
 
eizhowa's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Norway
Gender: femme
Posts: 4,850
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamb View Post
what is the definishion of ethics ?, and by what standard do you now judge these companies production methods to deem it more or less unethical ?.

Historically ethics by whatever definition it has, is largely based on the traditions and history of a given society.
we all know that this varies from continent to continent, country to country etc.
What we call ethics are theories about morality. The definition of ethics is pretty solid. However, morals are pretty much undefinable

(Yes, I realise the post is 9 years old).

__________________
Sure. I'm decent.
Status: Online
 
Reply With Quote
02-12-2014
  34
V.I.P.
 
eizhowa's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Norway
Gender: femme
Posts: 4,850
Fashion is business. It is a trend in the world to belive that businesses have a larger responsibility than just their responsiblities to the share holders. However, the devellopment at "the top" is slow, and expecting any change from "the top" is unrealistic. If all businesses were natioal, not international, change would be faster... So maybe in 2114 I know there is some work going on, but everything is voluntarily, and there is nothing much to do about it:/

It seems that any noticable change will have to happen from the bottom. I have been thinking about this. If the government cared, shouldn't they make some official guidelines? I would be interested to read those. We have offical guidelines for good health/what to eat etc. Why not have guidelines to inform consumers (meaning, everybody...) to consum in a more social responsible way?

I actually think the government is afraid of socialy responisble shoppers... Scary Scary hippies comming to get them!

Sometimes I don't know what to make of it all. If nobody bought stuff "made in Bangladesh" apparantly that would be even worse, because then they would have zero income and their economy would collapse. Frankly, I don't quite see how social responsibility is compatible with the "World business model".

__________________
Sure. I'm decent.

Last edited by eizhowa; 02-12-2014 at 09:35 PM.
Status: Online
 
Reply With Quote
03-12-2014
  35
#Resist
 
fashionista-ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hardly ever at Barney's
Gender: femme
Posts: 16,087
^ We are certainly a heckuva long way from any such guidelines in the US!

I think that the wave of the future is cooperatives. They completely eliminate the conflict between what's best for the employees and what's best for the shareholders. A lot of the ones I know about are pretty interested in what's best for everyone--their trading partners, the planet, etc. I make a point of supporting them whenever I can.

__________________
There's a need for more individuality today, and my job is to cater to women, not dictate to them.
--Alber Elbaz
  Reply With Quote
 
1 Week Ago
  36
V.I.P.
 
Pricciao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,431
There's this New Yorker article discussing the leather goods made in Italy by Chinese immigrants.

The Chinese Workers Who Assemble Designer Bags in Tuscany

  Reply With Quote
1 Week Ago
  37
V.I.P.
 
Benn98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bbbrrruummiiee
Gender: homme
Posts: 13,409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pricciao View Post
There's this New Yorker article discussing the leather goods made in Italy by Chinese immigrants.

The Chinese Workers Who Assemble Designer Bags in Tuscany
Omg, I literally read that feature early this morning (catching up on my issues!) and made a note to look for a relevant thread! Thanks for posting, Pricciao!

Aside from the nauseating Sinophobia which sweeps throughout the article, the writer made some really great points. It also gives you a bit of an insight into Chinese immigration and integration, something which I'm sure many on here are familiar with. The story is as old as the hills, of course. The fact that thy adopt Italian first names is, well, it's just odd! Says a lot more about Italians, to be honest.

Regarding the fashion, I'm truly shocked at Gucci and the sheer amount of HF brands who profit from them because that's not their mission statement. It's such a disgusting ethical violation! And their shrewd 'standards.' I've never bought into the 'Made in Italy' marketing ploy, especially not when it was uncovered that most items are only designed there, but actually manufactured elsewhere. But this took that gimmick to a new low!


Last edited by Benn98; 1 Week Ago at 04:43 AM.
  Reply With Quote
1 Week Ago
  38
fashion elite
 
Les_Sucettes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Netherlands
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pricciao View Post
There's this New Yorker article discussing the leather goods made in Italy by Chinese immigrants.

The Chinese Workers Who Assemble Designer Bags in Tuscany
Thank you.

Not surprised that nothing changed.
As far back as 2006, the first section of Robert Saviano’s “Gomorrah” is dedicated to the luxury goods business and the way they are interlinked with Neopolitan Mafia and the Chinese Underworld. He went undercover and It is all there, in black and white, how the whole criminal enterprise works, so much so that Saviano has been under police protection ever since.

  Reply With Quote
1 Week Ago
  39
#Resist
 
fashionista-ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hardly ever at Barney's
Gender: femme
Posts: 16,087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn98 View Post
Omg, I literally read that feature early this morning (catching up on my issues!) and made a note to look for a relevant thread! Thanks for posting, Pricciao!

Aside from the nauseating Sinophobia which sweeps throughout the article, the writer made some really great points. It also gives you a bit of an insight into Chinese immigration and integration, something which I'm sure many on here are familiar with. The story is as old as the hills, of course. The fact that thy adopt Italian first names is, well, it's just odd! Says a lot more about Italians, to be honest.

Regarding the fashion, I'm truly shocked at Gucci and the sheer amount of HF brands who profit from them because that's not their mission statement. It's such a disgusting ethical violation! And their shrewd 'standards.' I've never bought into the 'Made in Italy' marketing ploy, especially not when it was uncovered that most items are only designed there, but actually manufactured elsewhere. But this took that gimmick to a new low!
I don't find it odd. I've worked with many Asian people who went by English names. This is true also of people who live in Asia and work for global companies. Some also go by their real names. I've never asked anyone why they made their choice, just call them what they want to be called. For example, Duncan (a good Scottish name), Annie, Geraldine, Pansy (the only Pansy I've ever known!), Michelle, Stella, etc.

Very interesting article.

__________________
There's a need for more individuality today, and my job is to cater to women, not dictate to them.
--Alber Elbaz
  Reply With Quote
1 Week Ago
  40
backstage pass
 
vetements's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: tokyo
Gender: homme
Posts: 765
I hope this articles get shared by as many as possible, and these said manufacturers and brand companies go bust, it’s unethical to the max to say the least, cheating the poor workers and the rich consumers.

  Reply With Quote
1 Week Ago
  41
#Resist
 
fashionista-ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hardly ever at Barney's
Gender: femme
Posts: 16,087
^ I suspect Chanel isn't going to go bust But I was thinking this could explain the quality change some people have noticed in recent years.

__________________
There's a need for more individuality today, and my job is to cater to women, not dictate to them.
--Alber Elbaz
  Reply With Quote
1 Week Ago
  42
backstage pass
 
vetements's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: tokyo
Gender: homme
Posts: 765
Quote:
Originally Posted by fashionista-ta View Post
^ I suspect Chanel isn't going to go bust But I was thinking this could explain the quality change some people have noticed in recent years.
And the same goes for Kering and LVMH unfortunately.

I have always been curious how the equation works out in fashion, now I guess it somewhat makes sense, and prices of branded good have been going up year by year...what with decreasing costs like that?! It’s quite appalling really.

To me this is as scandalous as the METOO movements, and I hope some explanation can be given by the said companies at least.

In the long run, I can foresee the real artisans are going to be affected and we are left with fast fashion in the disguise of ‘quality merchandises” with fantastic marketing campaigns.

I wonder can Vuitton suitcases still survive a Titanic shipwreck now...

  Reply With Quote
1 Week Ago
  43
#Resist
 
fashionista-ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hardly ever at Barney's
Gender: femme
Posts: 16,087
^ I think that would make a good magazine story Not one that any magazine with LV advertising would do, of course ...

__________________
There's a need for more individuality today, and my job is to cater to women, not dictate to them.
--Alber Elbaz
  Reply With Quote
2 Days Ago
  44
fashion icon
 
dodencebt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 3,227
Interesting to see the brands that are mentioned in that New Yorker article appearing as least transparent according to the Fashion Transparency Index.

Also, again - kudos to Kering for being a pioneer for change in the luxury sector. They are clearly on top of their game.

Quote:
Transparency Index Faults Luxury Brands

LONDON — Luxury megabrands such as Dior, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Max Mara and Tory Burch are alleged to be among the least transparent about their supply chains in the latest Fashion Transparency Index published by Fashion Revolution, a U.K.-based social enterprise that promotes sustainability in fashion.

Fashion Revolution, which was set up five years ago following the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh, aims to stress the importance of brands being transparent about their supply chains as a means of spotting unauthorized suppliers, managing risks and preventing human rights and environmental abuses at factories.

Fashion Revolution said it relies on publicly available information and that there could be limitations to its “desk-based research.”

“Only on-the-ground research by NGOs, unions and academics can reveal the true impacts of brands’ policies and practices in real-world situations. The Fashion Transparency Index has been designed to give an illustrative look at how much brands know and share about their supply chains. We have deliberately chosen to focus specifically on transparency by means of public disclosure and not everything that brands and retailers are doing internally or otherwise behind-the-scenes across their companies and supply chains,” the report added.

Brands including Chanel and Versace could not be reached for comment at press time.

Armani said all its activity is aligned with Corporate Social Responsibility and the official international conventions. “The group requires that the same standards and commitments, above all the utter respect of human rights, are fulfilled in its supply chain and therefore suppliers are carefully selected and regular audit programs, both social and environmental, are constantly implemented in order to ensure full compliance of the company’s code of conduct,” a company spokesperson said. The company added that it’s working to add information about its supply chain on it web site.

According to the organization, without transparency there would be no means of monitoring working conditions at factories or minimizing issues such as unauthorized subcontracting; “The vast majority of today’s fashion brands and retailers do not own their manufacturing facilities. They may work with hundreds or even thousands of factories at any given time — and that is just the suppliers that cut, sew and assemble our garments. There are many facilities further down the chain that weave, dye and finish materials and farms that grow fibers used in our clothing. This can sometimes be used as an excuse for brands to evade responsibility for how their products are made,” the report said.

The results of this year’s index point to a big number of luxury brands that still don’t disclose any information regarding their production processes. On the other hand, a number of high-street retailers are paving the way for transparency, having attracted a lot of negative attention in the past and been the targets of pressure from the industry and consumers alike, to review their supply chains.

H&M, Marks & Spencer, Asos and Zara were among the highest-performing fast-fashion retailers, alongside sports brands such as Reebok, Adidas and Puma.

The luxury brands said to be moving toward transparency include a number of Kering-owned labels such as Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent, as well as Burberry, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, which all received 31 to 40 percent of the available points.

To calculate a brand’s score, the report takes into account a company’s social and environmental policies and their implementation; the availability of information on the suppliers it uses; its reaction to issues reported in supplier facilities, and initiatives taken to address issues such as gender equality, overproduction and the payment of living wages globally.

The brands featured in the report, which include 150 labels across the luxury, accessories, sport and high-street sectors, were chosen on the basis of having an annual turnover of more than $500 million.
wwd.com

__________________
"See, there is a difference between me and you. When you hear Celine you think of Dion. I think of the brand."
  Reply With Quote
1 Day Ago
  45
#Resist
 
fashionista-ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hardly ever at Barney's
Gender: femme
Posts: 16,087
^ Isn't 31-40% still a miserably failing grade?

I'm surprised that Bottega Veneta wasn't able to do better than that.

__________________
There's a need for more individuality today, and my job is to cater to women, not dictate to them.
--Alber Elbaz
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
ethical, fashion, questions, responsibility
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:38 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2018 All rights reserved.