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05-01-2016
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"Intellectual fashion"
Hi there everyone

I was just browsing Facebook and my friend shared quite an interesting column titled "The Rise of Intellectual Fashion". You can read it here. I think it sums up quite nicely what we've seen recently on the runway with the brands like Vetements, Jacquemus etc.

What are your thoughts on this topic?

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05-01-2016
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Vetements, Jacquemus, (HBA, J.W. Anderson)… are the rise of intellectual fashion???? We are in dire dire dire times then since all are lessers blatantly copying greater designers before them. All unbearably hyped, pretentious and ultimately short on talent but very clever in understanding marketing. If that’s what passes as “intellectual”, I’d happily be dumb and passe in liking what I like.

Intellectual fashion is such a cringe-inducing term to me— and likely the type of segregation first-year fashion students take seriously without knowing how foolish they are for taking it seriously. But that’s a part of being a student— you make a fool of yourself all the while learning: As if a certain style of design is somehow much more “intelligent” and “thoughtful” just because someone dubs it “intellectual”. Fashion— whether high fashion, haute couture, artisanal, DIY, street and even fast, exists alongside one another and is as valid as the other. I may prefer one over the other, but they’re as much a part of the fashionscape, and as much a part of the fashion vocabulary as the next. I may not like Versace or Jeremy’s Scott’s Moschino— or even the aforementioned designers that started my post, but I think they’re as much a part of fashion/ high fashion as designers I may be attracted to. But it’s all just fashion. The more variety, the merrier. And it’s not like most will last in the long run anyway, right-- Jacquemus…?


Last edited by Phuel; 05-01-2016 at 09:16 PM.
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05-01-2016
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Looking at the column, I think maybe 'pseudo-intellectual' is what's meant here ... it was a bit hard to believe some of the inspirations cited were for real. I mean, that's really what inspired you to put kangaroo fur in shoes, or are you just making this sh!t up???

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06-01-2016
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This article sums up perfectly what fashion has been in the past few years! People nowadays are too focused on the interpretation rather than the aesthetic of the clothes! As what Andre Leon Talley said,"It's a famine of beauty!!", and this time it's not the models anymore (although that industry also needs more beautification as well!). I may not like what Jeremy Scott has been doing in Moschino, but at least his message is spectacularly clear and does not require an essay to push people into deciphering what he really means!

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06-01-2016
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When something is truly intellectual there is no need to express that.
Pretentious sounds more appropriate.

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06-01-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fewormany View Post
When something is truly intellectual there is no need to express that.
Pretentious sounds more appropriate.
well said, truly 'intellectual' designers don't need to say 'hey this is intellectual fashion'. It either is or it isn't, even then it is subjective.

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Last edited by jescajade; 06-01-2016 at 12:44 PM.
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06-01-2016
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I bet Hussein Chalayan never handed out any pink cards ...

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08-01-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToniOrtega View Post
This article sums up perfectly what fashion has been in the past few years! People nowadays are too focused on the interpretation rather than the aesthetic of the clothes! As what Andre Leon Talley said,"It's a famine of beauty!!", and this time it's not the models anymore (although that industry also needs more beautification as well!). I may not like what Jeremy Scott has been doing in Moschino, but at least his message is spectacularly clear and does not require an essay to push people into deciphering what he really means!
This exactly. fashion should focus on aesthetic as opposed to being suggestive of something else. Sorely lacking is the creative ideas that make people take note of the fashion world; unfortunately people focus on the completely wrong things.

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08-01-2016
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I remember a contestant on project runway giving a lengthy inspiration for a simple dress, and the judge saying "the words don't match the dress". That's how I feel about intellectual fashion, there's too much thought going into something simple and the result is very lackluster. The clothes should speak for themselves, you shouldn't have to explain everything.
Intellectual fashion is just really pretentious fashion

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15-01-2016
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I think my definition of "intellectual fashion" is seeing something that makes me want to know more about the principles and philosophy that went into the creation of the garments, or the staging of the show. It's about awakening curiosity and further consideration, and making the effort to find out more. It's certainly not a process that starts with someone telling me what I should be thinking.

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15-01-2016
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^^^ Yes-- in the ideal fashiondom, people would individuals and make up their own minds.

But the fashion industry is just like any other industry that brands and labels rely heavily on marketing to sway the masses towards their product. A lot of people need to be told how to dress and what’s the right dress— even as far as how to live and how to behave. So telling them what is the “intelligent” dress is just a part of reality. (And creates jobs for many LOL I remember one of the most humbling things Armani said was that because he thinks 90% of women don’t have any style is the reason he has a job.)

Is someone pointing out what fashion is “intellectual” any different than pointing out what bag and shoe is the “it” one?

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16-01-2016
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For me intellectual fashion simply means that there is a thought process behind a creation- ANY thought process apart from 'let's copy this and change the collar/length/colour' Any relevant fashion is intellectual, because without there being any original thought or idea there is just a vacuum. Saint Laurent and Chanel were both intellectual designers, in that they were asking themselves questions. Intellectual is not necessarily difficult or weird ( weird for the sake of it is just as irrelevant as blatant copies), it means that something has meaning and is somehow culturally relevant.


Last edited by donyan; 16-01-2016 at 09:50 AM.
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16-01-2016
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^^
great post~!

intellectual comes from the word intellect...
you are using your brain...thinking...that's the point...

i think that word gets a bad rap...
thinking should not be considered a bad thing!...imho...
i wish more people would do it...

...

not sure which designers i would call intellectual...
vivienne westwood and katherine hamnett come rushing to mind...
chalayan, rei + the cdg universe, yohji, issey + his universe, suzuki takayuki, eileen fisher, alber elbaz...

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Last edited by softgrey; 16-01-2016 at 03:15 PM.
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16-01-2016
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disclaimer---
i couldn't read the entire article because i found it to be cringeworthy and badly written...
he complains when designers explain their inspirations but EVERYone asks every designer what their inspiration is...
so don't complain when you don't understand the answer...
just because you don't see the connection, doesn't mean that it's not real for the designer...
they may take just the tiniest sliver of inspiration from something and then weave it into some other things until the original becomes unrecognizable...
that is the nature of design...
if you could see it quite literally, then it would just be regurgitation...

people are so stupid sometimes...



but- in general...
i support intellectual endeavors of all kinds...
.........

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Last edited by softgrey; 16-01-2016 at 03:21 PM.
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16-01-2016
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^^^ I don’t know about ol’ Viv and Hamnett…

Viv has a tendency to ramble on and on about creating a saloon where scholars can meet and have discussions— someone should clue her in that’s what universities are for… Ultimately, her designs are rather more fetishists and coquettish than anything “intellectual”. I think she was profound during the SEX days with Malcolm and she’ll always be the godmother of punk to me, but even Malcolm lovingly confessed she was sort of a ditz who just took herself a tad too seriously.

And as for Hamnett, just because you can put it on a tee, doesn’t make your designs intelligent.

Hussein is no doubt an observant and intelligent talent back in the day. But even then, I got tired quite quickly when he would drone on and on about his designs’ concepts and purposes. I mean, the designs were beautiful, but he should take a note from Rei, Yohji, Helmut, Ann and even Miuccia who just let their designs do the talking and only spoke vaguely when pressed on about their concepts for a collection. I don’t need a thesis, Hussein.


Last edited by Phuel; 16-01-2016 at 04:06 PM.
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