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26-05-2011
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Who are the edgiest fashion designers? New York vs London
I met a journalist from a well-known US fashion magazine at the past London Fashion Week and asked her what was her opinion about the British edgy designers (particularly those exhibiting at the LFW). She answered she didn't found them edgy She said you can find more "edginess" in any given New York fashion week

Anyway, because the UK the fashion industry portrays itself and to other nations as an edgy and cool country brand, I was wondering how big/small could be the gap between the purported national brand identity and the actual perception of the fashionistas around the world

What do you think in general? Who would be the edgiest fashion designers nowadays? Those coming from the US or those hailing from the UK?

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26-05-2011
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Um, New York shows and the word edgy definitely don't go together for me.

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26-05-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackos View Post
Um, New York shows and the word edgy definitely don't go together for me.


New York is something in the middle between high fashion and ready-to-wear.

What British fashion represents to you?

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26-05-2011
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Neither LFW nor NYFW strike me as particularly "edgy". To me, London is more creative and diverse but I can't think of a London designer who's all that edgy except for maybe Meadham Kirchhoff who are really cool. But I think there are way more edgy designers in Tokyo and Paris.

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27-05-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackos View Post
Um, New York shows and the word edgy definitely don't go together for me.
Agreed. I mean there is the odd New York designer that has some originality. Threeasfour have done some revolutionary collections. But I think your friend in saying there's more "edge" in NY than in London. I think the UK designers tend to have more "guts", so to speak. More experimentation happens there.

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27-05-2011
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Agreed. I mean there is the odd New York designer that has some originality. Threeasfour have done some revolutionary collections. But I think your friend in saying there's more "edge" in NY than in London. I think the UK designers tend to have more "guts", so to speak. More experimentation happens there.
I see. But what do you mean that NY has more "edge" than London?

The influence of urban culture and music on designers is often cited here as a major contributing factor to the more cutting edge UK brand. But I think these same influences reach every designer specially thanks to the Internet.

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27-05-2011
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Edge? The Mulleavy sisters do come to mind. And then Helmut Lang when he was at the helm. And then there are others like Carol Christian Poell.

But England is the greenhouse where are the ultimately cool designers come from .. before twas McQueen and Galliano who were so powerful took over dusty french houses (the only one whos done it is Jacobs and Ford) and noawadays the UK still gives us fresh blood season after season .. from Pugh to Schwab to Maria whats-her-last-name, english is the epitome of cool.

NYFW is just clothing for the rich and bored with the usual dash of (expected retakes on) american sportswear.

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27-05-2011
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Originally Posted by ultramarine View Post
...english is the epitome of cool...
Style Anglais & Cool Britannia. A mix between elegance and coolness?

Can edgy be cool? (i.e. examples of avant-guard meeting cool aesthetics).

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27-05-2011
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In my head edgy IS cool!

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27-05-2011
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And let's not forget Kane!

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28-05-2011
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Tokyo. But you'd never know because it's mostly underground. Trying to do something about that.

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28-05-2011
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But to acquiesce to the OP:

If "edgy" means leather-wrapped, devil-may-care cool a la Kate Lamphear, then NYC
If "edgy" means experimentation a la marios, kane, mary katrantzou, pugh, boudicca x countless others, then London.

Edge is subjective.

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31-05-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishahoi View Post
But to acquiesce to the OP:

If "edgy" means leather-wrapped, devil-may-care cool a la Kate Lamphear, then NYC
If "edgy" means experimentation a la marios, kane, mary katrantzou, pugh, boudicca x countless others, then London.

Edge is subjective.
Am I the only one who confuses 'edgy' with 'risque'?

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01-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayote View Post
Am I the only one who confuses 'edgy' with 'risque'?
Risque is usually referred to sexual promiscuity in fashion, no?

So it couled be said that something risque is always edgy, but something edgy is not always risque.

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01-06-2011
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Juliene MacDonald? Louise Gray? Westwood? Definitely more experimentation in UK shows/ collections, imo. In NYC, it is more about salability, including cool factor, isn't it?

IDK, i guess it depends on how one defines edgy or what is meant by it.

I find UK collections slightly more offbeat, less mainstream in general.

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