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06-03-2010
  1
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Why Can't They Stick Around?: Designers Going From House to House
Alessandra Facchinetti- Gucci, Valentino
Lars Nilsson- Bill Blass, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferrer
Olivier Theyskens- Rochas, Nina Ricci

These are just a few that I can name off the top of my head. What do they have in common? They've all been appointed to multiple fashion houses, but they haven't seemed to be able to stick around for very long. Is there a common denominator, or multiple factors? Due to their artistic talent (maybe even lack there of), or some commercial aspect? Obviously there will be different reasoning for each designer, but I am still curious for responses to this question.

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06-03-2010
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Karl Lagerfeld himself has jumped ship quite a bit over the years, he used to be at chloe and has designed for other houses as well. Now obviously he's fixed at Chanel and Fendi, I think his own line used to be Lagerfelg Gallery and now it's simply 'karl lagerfeld'.

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06-03-2010
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sales?

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06-03-2010
  4
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Those designers were all fired because they weren't selling clothes. Poor Alessandra

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06-03-2010
  5
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For me it's funny why valentino fired Alessandra, maybe she played too save in Gucci...Honstly, Frida done a better job, although I didn't really enjoy gucci clothes.
But she have done something amazing for valentino. I mean her collections and couture is much better than right now, I really hope that she can finanlly land a good position or start her own brand

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06-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathewthew View Post
Honstly, Frida done a better job
Don't even bother showing your face here again kidding. Frida is a good businesswoman Ill give her that, but not on the same creative level as Alessandra.
What is Alessandra doing at the moment anyway?

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06-03-2010
  7
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I suppose what I find puzzling is that many designers that bounce from house to house, Olivier in particular, is that they are regarded by the vast majority of fashion elite as being grand artists, the finest of their generation. The only Vogue I regularly read (in print) is US, and both Rochas and Nina Ricci were featured heavily in editorials and even articles. If industry insiders laud these designers left and right, why doesn't anyone buy their clothing? Or if a designer like Lars has designed for multiple houses to no avail, but still keeps getting work- why is he still frequently hired?

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06-03-2010
  8
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To be honest to the new Valentino designers, their SS10 collection and the Spring 10 HC collection were both really wonderful. Everything else, however, has been just dreadful.

I don't really understand what the new designer is doing at Nina Ricci. I don't really know the history of the brand, but it's a 180 change from what was happening there before. Not in a good way either.

Similarly with Salvatore Ferragamo. It seems like it's a conscious decision by the management to go into a different direction, but alas it's the wrong direction to go to, after that sleek and chic clothes the seasons before.

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06-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squizree View Post
Don't even bother showing your face here again kidding. Frida is a good businesswoman Ill give her that, but not on the same creative level as Alessandra.
What is Alessandra doing at the moment anyway?
Probably working out a deal to work with Tom Ford on his women's line.

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06-03-2010
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Paulo Melim Andersson went from I forget which house to Marni to Chloe to ???

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06-03-2010
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I actually believe that these designers, alessandra especially, play a certain role in fashion.

Once a name sake designer leaves a house one of these designers comes in and designs while the fashion world takes time to mourn the house and reminisce. Then once the media is ready to truly pay attention to the house again, the transition designer is kicked to the curb, and the "real' replacements come in.

It could also be a matter of whether or not a designer really gels with a house and it's employees. And of course there is the issue of money.

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07-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIs View Post
To be honest to the new Valentino designers, their SS10 collection and the Spring 10 HC collection were both really wonderful. Everything else, however, has been just dreadful.

I don't really understand what the new designer is doing at Nina Ricci. I don't really know the history of the brand, but it's a 180 change from what was happening there before. Not in a good way either.

Similarly with Salvatore Ferragamo. It seems like it's a conscious decision by the management to go into a different direction, but alas it's the wrong direction to go to, after that sleek and chic clothes the seasons before.
Couldn't agree more.
As for Paulo Melin Andersson (who was at Marni & then went to Chloe), I really wish he would've stayed at Chloe. I love Hannah McGibbon at Chloe, but Paolo's vision of the quintessential Chloe gurl was so fresh & modern that made me so intrigued in his collections season after season.

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Last edited by LagerfeldBoy; 07-03-2010 at 01:22 AM.
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07-03-2010
  13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKharma View Post
I suppose what I find puzzling is that many designers that bounce from house to house, Olivier in particular, is that they are regarded by the vast majority of fashion elite as being grand artists, the finest of their generation. The only Vogue I regularly read (in print) is US, and both Rochas and Nina Ricci were featured heavily in editorials and even articles. If industry insiders laud these designers left and right, why doesn't anyone buy their clothing? Or if a designer like Lars has designed for multiple houses to no avail, but still keeps getting work- why is he still frequently hired?
Rocha's was closed for financial reasons wasn't it? (Even though it's since re-opened and is designing clothes with more wearability) So Oliver didn't really have a choice but to leave Rocha's, and then almost the same thing happened with Ricci didn't it? He came to the end of his contract, which was then not renewed. So it's not really something he had much of a choice in I imagine.

They did both do well editorially, but I doubt their sales were all that impressive. He was a big gown man, which while being beautiful and perfect for editorial and red carpet appearances, don't really make for amazing sales figures.

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07-03-2010
  14
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whether it's in fashion or not, change creates excitement. it's why cereal companies change their packaging, it's why companies spend millions on re-branding campaigns, it's why politicians craft speeches contradicting their old positions. within the world of fashion, this remains true. you'll notice that at the houses where the designers have stayed the same, the amount of change at those houses remains monumental. karl lagerfeld is such a genius that he can oscilate between a surfer girl one season and present a beautiful paris-monaco season the next. many houses would have to change designers to get that radical of a change.

also, let's not forget the economics of this beast. young, fresh talent remains the cheapest on the marketplace. once they've established themselves as good, they don't have to work for pennies on the dollars of the more established designers. unless these houses are willing to pony up more money, many of these designers willingly leave because they know they're worth more.

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07-03-2010
  15
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What's happening with Olivier theyskens (I know I spelt that wrong LOL)?

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