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11-01-2014
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Mr. Magic
 
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Dolce & Gabbana F/W 14.15 Milan



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12-01-2014
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12-01-2014
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12-01-2014
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15-01-2014
  425
Mr. Magic
 
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Quote:
It was a return to the tried and true at the mens’ shows in Milan this past weekend, particularly at Dolce & Gabbana, where seasoned male model Noah Mills made yet another appearance on the runway. The proverbial all-American-guy in Italy has worked with the Italian fashion house for almost a decade. “I can almost chronologically place the last ten years of my life by where and what I was working on with Domenico and Stefano; it’s kinda funny.” Below, we caught up with the 30-year-old Baltimore native on why he would trade closets with Joaquin Phoenix and an embarrassing model moment in Vienna.

Name: Noah Mills

Age: 30

Hometown: Baltimore.

How do you say hello where you are from? What up? You good?

What is your Starbucks order? Americano with milk.

What are you wearing right now? Carhartt sweats, Nike Jordan Jumpman hoodie, Nike Air Max, black T-shirt, Dolce underwear, and a Rolex.

What are the three items you always keep in your pockets? Burt’s Bees, a hotel pen, toothpicks, and mints.

How were you discovered? My sister Quimby told me I looked like the guys in the magazines, so I walked into an agency in Vancouver, and I guess was like, “Can I model?”

Most memorable modeling moment: Working with Gisele Bündchen and Kate Moss at Golden Eye in Jamaica for Ferragamo.

Most embarrassing modeling moment: Probably this Versace Speedo look I had at the Life Ball in Vienna years ago! Pre–social media, luckily.

Favorite model of all time: Daria Werbowy.


How do you stay in model shape? Any tricks of the trade? I just stay active, surf, play basketball, do yoga. I stopped lifting weights a while ago and it’s easier to stay lean.

If you weren’t modeling, what would be your dream job? Producing a discovery show like Planet Earth.

Describe your style in five words: Clean, comfortable, confident, relaxed, simple.

Favorite designer: Dolce & Gabbana for the high-end dressed-up stuff, but I also wear a lot of basic stuff from Nike, Champion, and Carhartt.

If you could trade closets with someone else, whose would you choose? Joaquin Phoenix—hoping he’s got the outfits from his characters.

What new addition to your wardrobe are you currently craving this season? The Elder Statesmen cashmere sweaters.

What item in your closet do you most cherish? Why? My vintage Levi’s denim jacket—I just always go back to it. A Dolce cashmere jacket I’ve had for years, it’s timeless and super warm! Common Projects has the easiest cleanest sneaker out there. Also, my RRL black jeans.

Grooming item you cannot live without: These little Italian scissors I use for cleaning up the beard—you gotta be really careful though! Also Kiehl’s vitamin C concentrate and Oribe’s rough luxury hair wax.

What is the next thing you are going to purchase? Patagonia camping gear. I’m doing a desert excursion upon returning to L.A.

Who is the last person to cut your hair? I think Oribe Canales on the Dolce set.

What is your Twitter handle? Instagram? Twitter: @noah_live and Instagram: @nmills83

What is the first website you go to in the morning? Surfline.com and NYTimes.com

What songs are on repeat on your iPod right now? Van Morrison’s album Astral Weeks, and the Her sound track.

What’s on your Kindle / Nook / iBook shelf right now? Waves, The Wolf of Wall Street, Amongst the Thugs, Patrick O’Brian’s Master and Commander series.

Name the television character with whom you most identify: I know it’s over, which still saddens me, but Ted Danson’s character George from Bored to Death.

One place you always visit while in New York: I always get a juice from Liquiteria and check this little Japanese vintage store around the corner on Eleventh.

Favorite destination you have traveled to so far: Costa Rica.

Where would you like to go on your next vacation? Mozambique.

What quality do you most appreciate in a friend? Caring.

Name one natural talent you wish you had: Surrealistic drawing.

Subject you could wax poetic about, something that fascinates you: Sustainable modern architecture.

What are your words to live by? Just keep showing up for life.
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15-01-2014
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Good interview. Thanks for posting.

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23-01-2014
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30-01-2014
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04-02-2014
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Mr. Magic
 
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Details March 2014



Quote:
Today, in the first installment of Cover Stories, we explore the story behind the March cover of Details. As the luxury menswear market continues to grow, an elite group of male models are leaving behind the traditional confines of namelessness and emerging as brands in and of themselves. Will they become household names?

NEW YORK, United States — The March cover of men’s magazine Details, set to hit newsstands on February 10th, doesn’t feature a leading actor, musician or sportsman. “Men are their own tastemakers now and the Details reader doesn’t necessarily need to see it on an actor or an athlete in order to find a way to connect with fashion,” Dan Peres, editor-in-chief of Details, told BoF. Instead, gracing the magazine’s gatefold cover are Sean O’Pry, Clement Chabernaud and Garrett Neff, along with seven more of the world’s most successful male models. To the general public, these names remain relatively unknown. But with the luxury menswear market growing at roughly double the pace of womenswear and a distinct uptick in media interest in men’s fashion, could these “top boys” one day command the kind of household recognition as female supermodels like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell?


“These guys are really recognizable. You see them when you cross the street here in New York City. They are going by on buses. These are the guys that are on billboards and in the huge images in shop windows,” continued Peres. “Men’s fashion is stronger than it has ever been in terms of what the offerings are, but also in terms of dollars and cents and as a business. This cover is an acknowledgement of the extraordinary work that luxury houses are doing on behalf of men and the extraordinary way that this category is growing and blossoming.”


“The industry has definitely come to a crossroads,” said casting director Edward Kim of the Edit Desk, who works with publications including Arena Homme+ and Dazed & Confused as well as brands like Uniqlo. “When menswear initially began to emerge as an industry a lot of the male models were disposable — props to the women almost — but that has definitely changed. We live in such a developed and expanding celebrity culture that the fact the models are breaking their way into the public consciousness, solely for modelling, is notable.”


The emergence of these top male models reflects the growth of the luxury menswear market, which is expected to hit $18 billion in 2016, according to Minitel. “This guy has evolved and the luxury fashion houses are marketing much more to him,” said Peres. “To showcase fashion on fashion models really sharpens the focus and puts the focus on the fashion. This is what they are paid to do; this is why they are paid to do it. They look great in these clothes, it becomes a stronger statement.”


The rise of male models has also been driven by the modelling industry’s shift in attitude towards mass-market brands. “In the past, model agents used to not think most mass retailers were prestigious enough or considered ‘fashion.’ One of the biggest [trends] over the last few years has been mass retailers and top models coming together. Everyone is doing it, which was definitely fortified by the recession,” said Kim.


Stronger aesthetic values have also helped make high visibility advertising campaigns for the likes of Uniqlo, H&M and Zara some of the most prestigious and lucrative a model can land. “Contractually, the value of a campaign to a model reflects the breadth of its usage terms. Its duration, the territories within which it will feature, exclusivity, if any, be it worldwide, or whether it is limited to the brands that are perceived as that company’s competitors,” explained Kim.


By doing these wide-reaching campaigns, which often blanket major cityscapes, top-tier male models have built far broader public profiles than ever before — and as their public followings grow, they, in turn, become more desirable as campaign stars.


“There are a lot of fans and young boys who look up to these guys and this relationship translates into stronger sales for the brand and a more powerful perception of both the fashion brand as well as the talent,” said Kevin A’Pana, Clement Chabernaud’s agent at IMG Models, the world’s leading modelling agency, which represents supermodels like Gisele, Joan Smalls and Karlie Kloss, and relaunched its men’s division in 2012.


The growth of social media has also played a significant role in enabling top male models to build their burgeoning brands. “Social media has become very important as the top clients look at this and want those models to shoot for them, it’s a huge PR strategy,” said Lana Winters Tomczak, owner of VNY Models, which signed Sean O’Pry.


“I think with social media there has definitely been a shift,” added Garrett Neff, one of the most in-demand male models working today, who broke onto the scene as a two-year Calvin Klein exclusive. “We have been given a little bit of power to put our opinion out there. If you look at people like Cara Delevingne, Candice Swanepoel, Gisele, and not so far back, Naomi and Kate, people who have a lot of power and influence; a lot of that has to do with the places that they could showcase their opinion. Of course, you use social media to build your brand, you have to take the power. Take that control where you can.”


Neff has certainly embraced the opportunity, posting steady streams of photos and passing thoughts on Facebook and Instagram, and utilising his access to the gilded and glamorous turning cogs of the fashion machine to his advantage. “The established guys like myself, we wear the clothes, we have access to the best stylists and the best photographers, we learn how to put it together,” Neff continued. “We see it from a different perspective, because we are everywhere. We are also less biased because we don’t have to give advertising credit, so people trust us when they see what we are wearing on the street.”


As a result, “there are more jobs, because you are trusted,” added Neff. “But also the actual rates of the jobs are going up. Rates are up 50 percent of what they were three years ago. That is my trajectory. For people who have been around, who have a following, they command bigger rates for sure.” Neff estimated that the top tier of established male models earn “between $600,000 and $1.5 million per year.”


But the scale of the social media audience that top male models have attracted pales in comparison to that of top female models. On Instagram, for example, Neff has about 20,000 followers, while Cara Delevingne has over 4.1 million.


“There is such a great distance between the most well known male model and the most well know female models. Do I think they will ever exist on the same plane of popularity as the female models? Sadly, I don’t,” said Peres. “I don’t know that the name recognition is going to come quickly.”


Ultimately, Neff agrees, “I still don’t think guys are ever going to be nearly as influential, but it has changed for sure.”


Send your submissions for future Cover Stories to info@businessoffashion.com. Please include ‘Cover Stories’ in the subject line.
businessoffashion

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04-02-2014
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Photographs by Mark Seliger and Nicholas Prakas
Styling by Benjamin Sturgill. Hair by Charlie Taylor at Bridge for Bumble & Bumble. Grooming by Valery Gherman using Marc Jacobs Beauty Magic Marc'er. Set design by Rob Strauss Studio. Casting by Edward Kim at The Edit Desk. Production by Ruth Levy.







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05-02-2014
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14-02-2014
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19-02-2014
  433
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19-02-2014
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Beymen S/S 2014 by Koray Birand


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11-03-2014
  435
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