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06-06-2008
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JK Jemma Kidd Makeup, Napoleon Perdis and Pixi by Petra for Target
story from wwd. target will also roll out collections by napoleon perdis and the people behind Pixi Cosmetics. I'm most excited by the Jemma Kid collection (even though its expensive). its still cheaper than her main line.



Target Grows Makeup Artist Brands, Adds Testers
By Andrea Nagel
Target is expanding its Design for All concept in the beauty aisle.

This August, the Minneapolis-based retailer, which has become best known for its chockablock designer arsenal ranging from furniture by Michael Graves to apparel by Liz Lange, is rolling out three masstige versions of up-and-coming makeup artist lines.

Makeup artists Jemma Kidd, Napoleon Perdis and Petra Strand have signed on to collaborate with the retailer to bring out more affordable and slightly different versions of their existing prestige lines for the Target beauty shopper. The initiative marks a watershed moment for the retailer's beauty department: Testers will finally be present in the new presentation's beauty space and will play a large part in introducing the new goods to shoppers.

"We understand that buying cosmetics is different than buying a top or sneakers," said Joshua Thomas, a member of Target Corp.'s communications department. "When you buy [beauty] there is that emotional investment. We understand and appreciate that and the [new beauty displays] will reflect that." He continued, "We want to see guests walk in the section of the store and interact with the beauty brands. It gives them a chance to touch, smell and feel the brands." The new, 11-foot, in-store presentation will also have lit features and classic, bold beauty graphics, Thomas said, adding that each designer will have a bio by their respective product line explaining their philosophy and brand. To make room for the new items, Thomas said the chain took a hard look at its current beauty mix and "right-sized it" based on product performance. The new beauty move is a long-term plan, Thomas added.

Target has already mapped out a marketing and advertising plan, Thomas confirmed, which will include TV, print, online and in-store initiatives, but he would not comment on the retailer's ad budget. Sources said the chain is planning to spend $15 million in the first six weeks of the products' launch. The three beauty lines are scheduled to enter about 1,400 Target stores (all but 100 to 150) at the end of August.

Industry sources said they expect the new beauty set to generate between $45 million and $60 million in first-year sales.

Target maintains it continues to have a "successful" relationship with makeup artist Sonia Kashuk, who also falls into the beauty segment of Target's Design for All campaign, and who sells her own line of makeup and tools at Target.

Each artist Target has plucked for this new beauty deal has a line that is currently sold in a U.S. upscale arena, but with a limited presence. Kidd sells her high-end, technical line Jemma Kidd Makeup School in Bergdorf Goodman, as well as in 18 Neiman Marcus stores. Perdis sells his eponymous line at his four concept stores in California and in Sephora. However, the Sephora partnership has recently soured, he said, and he plans on announcing a new upscale retail partnership soon. Strand, a media darling, sells the line she founded with her sisters in London at the company's global Web site.

Each have taken a different spin on their original lines for the Target edition but have kept positioning pretty close to its roots.

Kidd's masstige line, called JK Jemma Kidd, takes a heavy fashion positioning, where each of the 95 products were inspired by the catwalk (Kidd is a former model). JK includes lip, face, eye and cheek items, as well as makeup tools. Prices start at $14 for I-conic Eye Pencil Liner with a built-in sharpener and go to $36 for a Smoky Eye Palette. The color items, Kidd said, have been designed with strong pigment to produce bold statement colors.

"JK goes outside the boundaries of mass cosmetics while also keeping the Target consumer in mind," she added. Some of Kidd's favorite items include Colour Adapt Gloss, a clear lip gloss that reacts to the pH level in a person's skin, giving off a tint respective to that individual. It will retail for $20. She also likes the I-Tech Liquid Liner, for $18, and Mannequin Skin Complexion Enhancer, for $24. Grace Fodor, chief executive officer and president of the company, said Kidd's cosmetics generate $9.5 million at retail.

Retail and beauty industry consultant Allan Mottus is taking a wait-and-see approach with Target's new beauty move. He is not convinced that more expensive lines and testers make a beauty department.

"They are not doing well in mass beauty," Mottus said of Target, remarking specifically on the chain's out-of-stock levels. "Unless you carry the right amount of inventory [any kind of beauty initiative] doesn't make sense." On recent store tours, Mottus said that the only beauty brands he saw that were in stock were ones Target has a financial tie to, such as Sonia Kashuk items and its European body brands. "If you can't maintain a beauty department correctly," he said, new and more expensive brands don't fix the problems. "There's nothing more aggravating to a beauty customer when one-third to half of the shades aren't in stock. They can't compare."

He added that the strong interest by mass retailers in prestige brands is twofold. The first is that the crumbling of the prestige retail landscape has made it unbelievably difficult for anyone except large pocket players, such as Estée Lauder and L'Oréal, to compete. The other is that mass retailers are in an identity crisis.

"Nobody knows what they want to be."

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07-06-2008
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Thank you so much for that report. I love Target!

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07-06-2008
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I am all over this it is not funny. There is only ONE place in the state where you can get Napoleon cosmetics, and nowhere for the Jemma Kidd and I have been wanting to try both. That being said, there HAS to be testers. That's one reason why I buy high end makeup is because I can try it out in-store to see what I think of it. If I love it, then I buy it, and if not, I look for something else (because if I go in for makeup, I will walk out with makeup).

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07-06-2008
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the testers could be fun to see within target. maybe they are trying to turn their beauty area into a mini sephora esque place.

i still think the jemma kid makeup needs to be cheaper.

sonia kashuk is still not cancer free. maybe target wont be carrying that brand after her death maybe thats why they are expanding this way with exclusive lines like this...

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14-07-2008
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pics from nylonmag, look at the colors. so vibrant! i am super excited.
nylon magazine's website also has pics of the napoleon perdis makeup.

a few months ago, i noticed all the napoleon makeup at sephora was marked down...
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File Type: jpg jk2.jpg (20.6 KB, 2 views)

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14-07-2008
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ooh yeah the JK stuff does look fun....

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14-07-2008
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Those liners look so hot...

The reason why NP is marked down at Sephora is they aren't going to stock it anymore from what I heard...some sort of dispute. I could be totally wrong though.

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15-07-2008
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I'm definitely intrigued, but $18 for a liner? That's more than a MAC liner costs! I hope the quality lives up to the price tag.

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15-07-2008
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Yeah :/ I wont be spending $18 dollars on a eyeliner, I have a lot of those colors..

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17-07-2008
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They look pretty! Thanks for posting.

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22-08-2008
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there's a great new 2 page story about the line in the new issue of vogue with keira knightly on the cover!!

the liners are going to cost 14$ not 18. now that's (slightly better)! and there will be foundation! wow!!

there are also full page ads EACH in the new vogue of the np set and new pixi makeup lines as well. the ads are beautiful!

also in new york manhattan will have 4 pop up stores that will sell the makeup in september!

ive also noticed in my local target that the sonia kashuk collection has EXPANDED.

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22-08-2008
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so psyched!

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22-08-2008
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i only know jemma kidd (because she was a model) and was shocked to see her doing a make up line when i was in london last year...

who are these other brands?
are good?

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22-08-2008
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How much does Jemma Kidd makeup usually cost?

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22-08-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peacelover142002 View Post
I'm definitely intrigued, but $18 for a liner? That's more than a MAC liner costs! I hope the quality lives up to the price tag.
Those were my exact thoughts on seeing the prices ... more than I pay for MAC in a department store. It always takes a lot to lure me away from MAC ...

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