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10-11-2007
  61
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(This one is especially helpful, I think)

The Art of Camouflage

Dark circles, blemishes and blotches meet their match with cover-ups that distract, rather than attract attention

Make-up artist Virginia Young has witnessed more than her share of beauty blunders, but one encounter 20 years ago on a train still haunts her. “It was the first time those green foundations were widely available,” she recalls of the make-up designed to counteract redness. “I remember seeing this pretty girl on the train with this Incredible Hulk-like make-up.” For every perceived flaw, there are thousands of unsuccessful attempts to hide it – from “masking” freckles with a freakish shade of concealer to piling crusty orange spackle over an angry pimple. They end up being like those fake nose-and-glasses – a disguise that fools no-one. New York City make-up artist Charlie Green – who touches up every square inch of skin for the Victoria’s Secret runway show – always considers the texture, size, and colour of a mark before choosing a concealer. Unlike make-up designed to exaggerate lashes or plump lips, she says, cover-up is most successful when it’s completely invisible. “Making a blemish totally disappear isn’t always realistic,” Green says. “The goal is to draw as little attention to it as possible.”

Dark circles
Tools A rich, creamy concealer, such as Revlon ColorStay Natural Concealer; sheer foundation such as Napoleon Minimal Makeup; translucent loose powder.
Technique If circles are particularly dark, precede concealer with a light coat of foundation applied with a damp sponge. With a small, flat brush, press concealer on just the dark areas, blending it to the lash line. Smooth any unevenness with a fingertip. Most women need cover-up from the inner corners to the middle of the eyes – not at the outer corners. Set it with a few pats using a clean, damp sponge, then lightly press a powdered puff over the concealer, keeping it well below the lashes to avoid magnifying lines and creases.

Blemishes
Tools Cotton bud; Visine (or other anti-redness eye drops); cakey compact concealer such as Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage (“It should feel almost like paste,” says Mercier); translucent loose powder.
Technique Soak a cotton bud in Visine and place it in the freezer for about 30 minutes. Hold it gently on the blemish for a minute to reduce redness and swelling, then fan the area dry. With a small, flat brush, dab a light layer of the pasty concealer on top of the pimple, then blend slightly around the edges. Let dry, and add one more thin layer if needed. Pat loose powder over the concealer to keep it from budging.

Acne Scars
Tools Cakey concealer such as Stephane Marais Perfect Concealer from Mecca Cosmetica (one shade lighter than your complexion if the scar is depressed or pitted, or a shade that matches the skin if the scar is raised); translucent loose powder.
Technique Use a pointed brush to fill in the centre of the scar with concealer without going beyond its edges – or, if the scar is raised, pat it on top with a finger. Allow the concealer to set for a few minutes, then gently press loose powder over the scar a few times with a powder puff.

Redness
Tools Foundation, such as Revlon ColorStay Natural Makeup; creamy concealer, like Clinique Line Smoothing Concealer or Shiseido The Makeup Corrective Concealers; I.D. Bare Minerals powder in Bisque; translucent loose powder.
Technique Apply foundation as usual. Using your ring finger, pat a thin layer of skin-matching concealer onto the areas that are still red. Let dry, then add a bit more until the redness disappears, says Mercier, who sets this with a light dusting of loose powder.

vogue.com.au

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13-11-2007
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Satin chic, you're a darling!

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25-02-2011
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Diane Kendal’s Guide to Runway-Perfect Skin
by Emily Weiss



Holding | Photographed by Emily Weiss (Diane Kendal and Aymeline Valade, top); Olivier Claisse/firstVIEW (bottom, from left: Kendal’s work on the runway at Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, and Alexander Wang)



Clockwise from far left: C.O. Bigelow Triple Rose Water; Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15, Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation, Cremeblend Blush in Brit Wit, and Lustre Drops in Pink Rebel all by M.A.C. Shop online at bigelowchemists.com and maccosmetics.com.
Photo: Liam Goodman

Quote:
Makeup artist Diane Kendal whipped up looks for eight shows in New York last week—everything from tribal-influenced crimson eyes at Thakoon to statement brows at Alexander Wang. The one constant at all her shows: the incredible quality of the models’ skin, especially noticeable on the nearly bare faces at Reed Krakoff and Proenza Schouler. Kendal has long been known for her contoured, less-is-more approach to complexions. Here’s how she does it, step-by-step:

1. Start with rose water: “It’s my all-time favorite product,” says Kendal, who has been using the all-purpose eau for more than 20 years as a toner to prep the skin. For tired models backstage, it doubles as a pick-me-up throughout the day: “It makes the girls feel good.”

2. Prime: Kendal is partial to M.A.C Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15, which, “sinks into the skin very quickly, and creates a beautiful canvas for applying foundation.”

3. Blend: Backstage, Kendal relies on a professional palette of Dermacolor foundations, available through the pro makeup source Kryolan (kryolan.com), but recommends more user-friendly formulas like M.A.C Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation for everyday use. She’s often spotted with a dollop of Embryolisse cream on the back of her hand as a mixing agent—this way, the same foundation can go from spot-treating “concealer” to “tinted moisturizer” in a brushstroke.

4. Contour: For soft definition and luminosity, Kendal layers several cream—not powder—blushes. “It keeps the face looking fresh and young.” She works a deeper taupe-y brown under the cheekbones and into the temples, and uses a brighter peach to accentuate the apples of the cheeks. She relies upon pale, pearlescent highlighter (like M.A.C Lustre Drops, due out in April) to brighten the brow bones, the bridge of the nose, and the Cupid’s Bow of the mouth. To keep the dewy finish in balance, Kendal dusts loose powder across the T-zone.

5. Finishing touch: “Sometimes, if the face looks too ‘done’ once I’m finished, I rub moisturizer on top. It works really well, to deconstruct a look. I like that bit of residue.”
Source: vogue.com


Last edited by flyme2themoon; 25-02-2011 at 02:27 PM.
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25-02-2011
  64
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^Sponsored by MAC I presume...pretty worthless advice IMO, apart from using creme products rather than powder.

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03-03-2011
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http://www.lisaeldridge.com/gallery/editorial/

^ She's pretty good for advice on certain 'looks'. Her video for acne coverage is definately worth a watch.

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10-05-2011
  66
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US Elle March 2011
"King of Pop"

With his prismatic palette, makeup artist Tom Pecheux shows the bright side of runway color. By April Long.



Scanned by flyme2themoon

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10-05-2011
  67
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melfreya, thanks for the Cantello beauty scan.
flyme2themoon thanks for the TP article. i keep walking past my old Lauder counter i used to work but am always in a rush. that bumble bee yellow es is rad.

btw Diane Kendal is a product developer for NARS. it's not uncommon for make-up artists to be MAC addicts regardless of their associations. but tbh i find most beauty advice pretty useless and am more interested in the inspiration behind the artistry, the artists in action and their personalities i mean has anyone ever gone out and bought something that looked amazing in some beauty ed and you see it or try it on in person and it looks pretty unremarkable. all the good ones use/recommend crap products and still make the model look immaculate.

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