“Lawrence of Arabia, Sudanese women, and of course Diane herself,” makeup artist James Kaliardos said of the inspiration behind the look he gave models yesterday at Diane von Furstenberg, where the collection was about “real” clothes-separates that women need. “She wanted no makeup at all but I insisted on some glamour,” he continued. The stalemate resolved itself in a smoky nude eye and a sculpted face. This meant MAC Pro Sculpting Powder in Bone Beige on cheekbones and temples and Soba Eyeshadow, an earthy brown shade that Kaliardos swept across lids to simulate a natural, dark pigment. As for the lip, he incorporated a technique from the designer’s own makeup bag of tricks, brushing the Bone Beige powder around the lip line to blend into the skin for a natural finish, and topping that off with a touch of balm.
Alexander Wang may not have staged a rowdy after-party this year—much to the chagrin of downtown scenesters and their wannabe hangers-on—but there was plenty of throwing down backstage at Roseland Ballroom last night, where in one of the more odd sponsorships we’ve seen, Hooters and its scantily clad girls were doling out chicken wings and iceberg-lettuce salads. We managed to avoid the fried-food temptations, and met up with makeup artist and Shiseido artistic director Dick Page, who was holding court in the corner. “Lip pencils have too much red in them,” Page explained as he dabbed a gray/brown eyeliner from his new Fall collection on models’ lips, filling them in with a Perfect Rouge Lipstick in Spiced Cream, a deep nude shade that launched this month. “I wanted the makeup to be a bit aggressive,” he said, adding that his inspiration was Wang’s monochrome collection of blacks, whites, and grays. To achieve this, Page applied foundation in a shade or two darker than models’ natural skin color to their cheek contours for severity and coated eyelids with the same brown liner he used on lips, mixed with a Hydro-Powder Cream Eye Shadow in Whitelights.
Sporting a new, shorter haircut, makeup artist and Revlon global artistic director, Gucci Westman, was channeling Rag & Bone’s “downtown, cool girl” at their presentation last night, working with selections from a new line she has created for the cosmetics giant, due out in the fall. Using the shimmering brown from Revlon’s Illuminance Crème Shadow quad in Not Just Nudes, Westman increased the contours of the models’ eyes and then patted Revlon’s Cream Blush in Rosy Glow or Blushing Mauve onto their cheeks, depending on skin tone. The finishing touch was a new lipstick she formulated specifically for the show called Mori Red, a sheer orange-red inspired by the collection’s samurai references, that will be included in the offerings on shelves in September.
Inspiration: “The look is inspired by the late 50’s – she is a modern take on a punky 50’s school girl.”
Eyes: Black Black chromaline – lining the top lashline in a thick rectangular shape extended out past the outer corner of the eyes. Ebony eye pencil – applied to the waterline. Black prolash mascara – applied to top lashes only. Fling eye brows – drawn into brows to slightly define the shape and add a bit of an arch.
Face: Face and Body foundation – smoothed on to even out skin tone in a sheer application. Blot powder – brushed over the t-zone to diminish extra shine. Laid Back blushcreme – blended high on the cheek bones.
Lips: Laid Back blushcreme – patted on to lips for a sheer stain.
Inspiration: For Fall 2009, Hervé Léger drums to the beat of an urban tribe with a gradient palette of earth tones polished by rich shades of deep ebony. Makeup artist Diane Kendal drew inspiration from Helmut Newton photographs, using the concept of a brave warrior - strong and fierce. “The collection is very hard and sculpted so we wanted to keep the skin neutral and show strength through the eyebrows,” said Diane.
Look: The focus was a very strong eyebrow with glowy skin, communicating strength without being too bold. “We created very fresh, dewy skin by using the NARS Sheer Glow Foundation. It really allowed the skin’s natural highlights to shine through,” said Diane.
· Use NARSskin Hydrating Moisture Cream to moisturize
· Apply NARS Concealer as needed, to cover any imperfections
· Use a minimal amount of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) to even skin tone
· Brush brows to define natural shape
· With NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bali, fill in brows
· Brush again for even, natural look
· Apply gentle dusting of NARS Single Eyeshadow in Sophia to entire lid, blending up towards brows for natural shading
· Curl lashes with NARS Eyelash Curler
· Apply NARS Lip Therapy Treatment in Rain to entire lip
The goal of the club kid was to stand out from the crowd, so in the most virtuoso backstage feat of Fashion Week, 64 different models wore 64 individual hair and makeup looks. "It’s a sad moment in the world, so it’s inspiring to see makeup and feel like there is more energy… the girls look strong and sophisticated," said Nars. "It’s the right moment to do more intense makeup, especially for Marc.” He started by using a whitish base to create alabaster skin for the color to pop in a theatrical way, and as a nod to the pale, party all night/sleep all day members of ye olde club circuit. For the base of the look, most girls wore some form of jewel-tone on the eyes, but from liner to lips, each model really did look unique. In fact, Jacobs personally worked with the artists to make sure each girl's personality was somehow reflected in the looks. And just how did he score Nars, anyway? “Marc is the only reason why I’m here. I love working with him—we’ve been friends for many years, and I really admire what he does. So it made sense to come back and do the makeup tonight," he said. "I was missing the backstage experience—the insanity of it all."
article source | allure.com
images source | the celebrity city via Cinnamaranth
Donna Karan | Charlotte Tilbury (using mac cosmetics)
Inspiration: “The look is inspired by 1930’s photographs – sepia tone shading but with a slick gloss on the eyes to make it modern.”
Eyes: Dusk cream colour base – blended through crease, over lids and along lower lash line to create shading and depth. Copper Walnut PRO Gloss mixed with a bit of Reflects Gold – applied from lid to brow for a wet look on the eyes.
Face: Fast Play lipstick – blended onto the apples of the cheeks. Pearl cream colour base – swept over cheek bone, bridge of nose, and bow of lips to highlight.
Lips: Half and half lipstick – lightly patted onto the lips.