Runway Makeup F/W 10.11

[flyme2themoon]

MAKEUP: Tina Turnbow and Tarte for Beauty.com
HAIR: Ted Gibson for Beauty.com
NAILS: Deborah Lippmann for Beauty.com
SNAPSHOT:

THE SCOOP: "We're creating a modern French twist," said hair stylist Ted Gibson. "It's the opposite of the classic Upper East Side twist -- disheveled with tons of texture -- for the girl who'd hang out downtown, at the Mercer Hotel, or the new Crosby," he added.

Inspired by a night moon peeking through the clouds, the eye look was a smoky eye, done in shades of blue. "We did eyes in a dusty blue-gray with a little black smudged in, explained makeup artist Tina Turnbow. The rest of the face was kept minimal. "We just used a rally pretty opalescent lip balm," she said.

Nails sparkled, in blue, thanks to Deborah Lippmann's Nail Polish in Across the Universe, a new release for fall. "It was one of those match made in heaven situations," she said, when asked about the color. "I was already doing this shade for fall, and, when I met with the design team to go over the clothing, we realized that she had a fabric in her fall collection that exactly matched it. We thought, let's not be serious, let's just have fun!" She filed nails into a short almond shape (when wearing sparkles, too-long nails are a no no) , and painted on two coats of the blue and green glitter formula, that's set in a sheer navy base.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All makeup by Tarte. Apply Blue Lagoon Eye Shadow at the center of the top and lower lids. Blend the blue into blue-gray Eye Shadow in Lucy I'm Home at the inner and outer corners. Add SmolderEyes eye liner in the inner rims, and top off with a few coats of Lights, Camera, Lashes! Mascara. Lips got a "moonlit glow" with Slide Tin Lip Balm in Pucker Up.

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: Flip hair over, spritz with volumizing Ted Gibson Build It Spray, and tease at the roots. Then flip back, finger comb hair into a ponytail at the top of the head, twist it, and pin it down to the bottom of the head.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: Deborah Lippmann Nail Polish in Across the Universe.

Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com

[flyme2themoon]

Lavender Looks Backstage at Carolina Herrera
by Julie Naughton

At Carolina Herrera, Diane Kendal, working with MAC Cosmetics, opted for a dark plum smoky eye, using four deep purple MAC eye shadows — Indian Ink, Vibrant Grape, Fig and My Dark Magic — from browbone to lid. Eyes were finished with black mascara on top and bottom lashes. Kendal smoothed foundation all over the face — including the lips — and finished with a pale lavender lip gloss.

Orlando Pita, working with Moroccanoil at the show, kept things simple and elegant. First, he blew the hair dry with Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream to eliminate frizz, then parted hair on the side. He then tucked hair behind models' ears, finishing with Moroccanoil Luminous Hair Spray for strong hold.

Source: WWD.com

[flyme2themoon]

Cherry Pouts Backstage at Donna Karan
by Julie Naughton

Charlotte Tilbury, working with MAC Cosmetics at Donna Karan, based the look on “black-and-white film noir, sort of Greta Garbo meets modern.”

The focus? Red, red lips that Tilbury said were intended to resemble lacquered cherries. “I used a bright cherry MAC lip pencil and MAC Mixing Medium to create a deep red shade, then covered the lips with MAC’s clear Lipglass immediately before the girls hit the runway,” said Tilbury. “There’s almost a pointy quality to the mouth. I’m not into the trout pout anymore — the color and the outlining make the look more interesting and refined.” Skin, first prepped with porcelain-hued foundation, was given a “waxy” quality by applying clear MAC Mixing Medium on cheeks and eyelids. Tilbury next applied blue-gray eye shadow from the socket to the brow, for a shadowlike effect. She eschewed both mascara and blush.

Eugene Souleiman keyed the hair, creating what he called a “classic Donna look” with black plastic headbands he picked up in Paris. “The hair is all about how light reflects off of glossy hair,” he said. “It’s intended to look almost unnaturally perfect and elegant — almost like the girls are mannequins.” Souleiman first sectioned off hair, then dampened it with water at the roots and pulled it back tightly into a ponytail, which he tied with cord. “Hair dampened with water shrinks as it dries,” explained Souleiman. “We wanted a very, very tight look, and with the combination of water and pulling the hair back tightly, this hair is completely smooth.” Next, Souleiman gathered the hair and rolled it around and under chopsticks at the back of the head to create a nontraditional bun. “I didn’t want to do a ballerina bun,” he said.

Wella System Professional Ultimation Shine was sprayed generously on the hair — more heavily toward the front of the head, getting slightly less glossy toward the back of the head. “The light plays on the different amounts of shine, creating different textures,” he said. The look was finished with the headbands, worn at the front of the hairline.

Source: WWD.com

[flyme2themoon]

High Volume Backstage at Tracy Reese
by WWD Staff

Makeup artist Charlotte Willer for Maybelline New York created what she described as a "masculine-feminine" look lead by a smoky, sparkling eye. To begin, she evened skin tone with Dream Matte Mousse and Mineral Power Natural Perfecting Concealer. The she applied a brown sparkling hue to the entire lid, and a generous amount of mascara to the lashes. A sheer pink shade was dusted on the top of the cheekbones and Color Sensational lipstick in a nude-pink shade, due out in September, was applied to the lips.

Hairstylist Jeanie Syfu for TRESemmé played with texture - lots of it - by setting hair in a figure eight using a 1-inch curling iron, which produced a "soft but edgy texture." She then pinned the curls to set them. From the crown of the head down, she let the hair hang long and gathered into a low ponytail that ran down the shoulder. She then broke up the curl using her fingers and finished the look with 24 Hour Body hair spray.

The Sally Hansen team collaborated with Tracy Reese for the ninth season in a row, creating a lace design to mirror the collection. To begin, acrylic nails were painted with two coats of the putty-colored shade Wet Clay. Then, black Leaver lace was layered on top of the nail for texture.

Source: WWD.com

[flyme2themoon]

Source: WWD.com

[flyme2themoon]

Worn-Out Sophistication Backstage at Marc Jacobs
by Matthew W. Evans

Backstage at Marc Jacobs on Monday, François Nars, creator of Nars Cosmetics, described the makeup look he did as “very simple” and “sexy, cool — like when Kate Moss goes out and wears the same makeup the next day. It’s a worn-out look, not overdone, but beautiful on the runway.”

The lips were given a pale, coral-orange color, inspired by a visit Jacobs made to Bloomingdale’s, where he found a coral shade from the Nars collection that he liked. “The lips will look dry with a stain of that [coral-orange] color,” Nars said of the final matte lip look.

On the eyes were two shades, a gray lavender hue and a pale, faded baby blue, which were applied with the fingers to give the worn look. Black liner also was applied to the eyes, along with “tons and tons” of mascara for a sticky, clumpy finish, Nars said, calling it a “focal point” of the overall look.

“All the colors of the show are neutral, beige and brown, so the makeup is the only focal point of color,” Nars said of Jacobs’ fashion collection. “Marc had a specific idea of how he wanted the girls to look — really cool.”

The face was kept “very natural,” Nars said, with liquid foundation, powder and a little blush for a shine-free finish. “The skin tone remains the same as the girls’ natural tone.” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau, who styled the hair at Jacobs’ show, did a dry, textured down do that could be tucked into the big collars on some of the clothes found in Jacobs’ collection.

“It’s a very easy look, not grungy, but sophisticated,” Palau said.

To achieve the style, models’ hair was first trimmed either the day before or the day of the show to a length that was below the collarbone but above the bustline. Then, layers were cut into the hair onto which Palau spritzed Redken’s Fabricate, a heat-activated texturizing product. “It’s a French, Seventies-movie feel,” Palau said of the inspiration. “There’s an ease to the sophistication — it’s not an unkempt look.”

Source: WWD.com

[flyme2themoon]

Source: WWD.com

[flyme2themoon]

MAKEUP: Daniel Martin for Lancôme
HAIR: John Ruidant for Redken
NAILS: Ana-Maria Gheorghiu for Lancôme
SNAPSHOT: Modern take on the 90's grunge chick

THE SCOOP: A Parsons grad and former Marc Jacobs intern, twenty seven year-old Chris Benz's Fall 2010 collection is interlaced with a young, hip vibe - featuring night life-ready shiny fabrics for city girls on the go. The beauty look is inspired by by the edgy and lipliner-loving 90s college girl (hello, Brenda Walsh!), but with a modern twist that refines the makeup a smidge without losing its rebelious air.

Hair toed the line of grunge, with one french braid on the top crown and a second one weaved casually through the side of the head.

Nails were more grown-up in a neutral nude shade - and kept away from the stereotypical short dark nail that would have been too easy to rely on for a grunge look.

GET THE LOOK MAKEUP - Martin used Le Crayon Poudre in Sable - which is an eyebrow pencil - to line the mouth and fully fill in the top lip, and then the new Matte Lipcolor in Bronze Show was pressed into the lips to prevent ring-around-the-mouth from forming once the lipcolor faded. Juicy Tube in Touch of Light added shine to the lips, and Blush Subtil in Cappucine lightly warmed up the cheek bones.

For the grunge-inspired smoky black eye, a cream gel black shimmer shadow set to debut in Fall was blended on the lids up into the crease, with a layer of brown cream shadow added to slightly tone down the black.

GET THE LOOK HAIR - After applying Fabricate #3 Heat Texturizer to locks, Ruidant quickly power=dried strands. Then Thickening Lotion #6 was worked into the hair and the crown teased for volume. A french braid took the top crown area, and a messy braid pulled to one side completed the look.

GET THE LOOK NAILS - A new nail lacquer for fall - Sweet Nude - is a soft coral nude with a metalic gold finish for an edge. After one coat of color, a layer of topcoat added high impact shine.

Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com

[The_Ida]

Maybelline @ Vivienne Tam

“Classic China Doll” was the beauty look at Vivienne Tam with a deep, luscious red lip complemented by a flawless, porcelain complexion.
Makeup How-to

Maybelline New York Global Makeup Artist, Charlotte Willer, went classic femme fatale by pairing deep cherry-bitten lips with bare cheeks. Eyes were accented in the corners with a shimmering light beige eyeshadow to evoke sexy screen siren. Natural brows created a pretty, “not-too-perfect” look. Charlotte first lined the lips precisely and then filled in the entire lip area in feathered strokes for a long-lasting, perfectly rich red result using Red Color Sensational Lip Liner.
Charlotte used the lightest shade of Copper Chic Eye Studio Eyeshadow Quad in the corner of the eye as a shimmery, feminine accent and focal point. For the face, a luminous finish and natural coverage from Mineral Powder Natural Perfecting Foundation paired perfectly with intense lips. Brows were defined with Define-a-Brow Eyebrow Pencil to create a natural looking brow.

temptalia.com

BTW does anyone know who this model is? She is stunning!

[LucyInTheSky]

Some info from the NARS Facebook page!

3.1 Phillip Lim

NARS Cosmetics created the makeup look at the 3.1 phillip lim AW2010 show.

INSPIRATION: Disco-punk. "This is a youthful, rebellious look that exudes a strong sense of confidence. Energy radiates within the girls through their makeup with eyes that have a bit of a rock and roll feel," said designer Phillip Lim whose in...spiration stemmed from an image of Blondie’s Debbie Harry.

LOOK: “This look has many layers,” said NARS lead artist Lisa Butler. “The eyes are punchy and edgy while the skin was kept healthy and glowing. The lips are a soft, sheer pink for the elegant punk-rock princess style that Phillip was looking for.”

PRODUCTS USED:

FACE
*Riviera Multiple
*Douceur Blush (NEW for Fall 2010); try Lovejoy or Madly Blush for a similar effect
*Luxor Multiple

EYES
*Abyssinia Single Eyeshadow
*Nymphea Single Eyeshadow
*Coconut Grove Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Fall 2010); try Bali Single Eyeshadow for a similar effect
*London Eyeliner Pencil

LIPS
*Bangkok Pure Matte Lipstick (NEW for Fall 2010); try Sex Machine Velvet Matte Lip Pencil for a similar effect

Source: NARS Facebook Page

[LucyInTheSky]

Marc Jacobs

More pictures of this look in this post.

INSPIRATION: "I was inspired by the film La Vie des Autres. I wanted the models to have a dirty look as if the hair and makeup had been slept in," said designer Marc Jacobs, who specifically requested Barbarella lipstick to be used on the models’ l...ips.

LOOK: “This look is what you’d see on a girl from the East Village or St. Germain des Pres-an existentialist with a modern twist,” said NARS Cosmetics Founder and Creative Director François Nars whose application technique included using his fingers to achieve the faded effect. “These girls are sexy and cool. Their makeup looks dirty and worn out as if it has been on all night but still translates beautifully on the runway.”

PRODUCTS USED:

FACE
*Sheer Glow Foundation
*Enchanted Blush (NEW for Summer 2010); try Gina Blush for a similar look

EYES
*D. Gorgeous Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010)
*Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil
*Nuits Blanches Eyeliner Stylo
*Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara

LIPS
*Barbarella Lipstick

Source: NARS Facebook Page

I adore this look!

[saann]

thank you for all the pictures!!

I'm really loving all the Mascara overload at Marc Jacobs

the colors at DKNY are nice and something I feel like doing now! but the makeup at Diane von Furstenberg is horrible. I hate it

[flyme2themoon]

MAKEUP: Makky for M.A.C
HAIR: Esther Langham for Moroccanoil
SNAPSHOT: Modern Renaissance

THE SCOOP: Beautiful -- that was the word on everyone's lips backstage at Nanette Lepore. In fact, more than a few people said it was their favorite beauty look from New York Fashion Week thus far!

Langham created two hair looks for the show -- one of glossy, cascading waves and the other a romantic, loose updo. She said both were inspired by Renaissance art. "It's very romantic," she explained. "[The down look] is gorgeous, with bounce and shine."

The makeup look was a modern twist on the smoky eye/bold lipstick combo. Makky did a soft smoky eye by "blending it out so there is no line. It's not a nighttime smoky eye -- and it's young." The real kicker was his two-toned lip creation with magenta on top and burgundy on the bottom. Cool!

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All products by M.A.C. Makky did a light, blended smoky eye with Eye Kohl in Smolder and Zoom Lash Mascara. On the top lip he apply Lip Pencil in Magenta and a magenta lipstick that won't launch until fall 2010 (but you can get the same look with Lipstick in Utter Fun), and on the bottom lip he did Lip Pencil in Burgundy, Lipstick in Odyssey and Pro Lipstick in Charred Red.

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: All products by Moroccanoil. Langham applied a cocktail of Treatment mixed with Intense Curl Cream to wet hair and blew it dry. She then sprayed hair with Luminous Hair Spray and wrapped 1-inch sections around a curling iron to create long ringlet curls, made a low side part, and then brushed through the hair with Ceramic Ionic Hair Brush (not out yet!). For the updo she pulled the hair back into a low, very loose braid and rolled it up until it reached the head, and then secured with pins. She finished both looks with a light misting of Glimmer Shine Spray.

Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com

[flyme2themoon]

MAKEUP: Dick Page for Shiseido
HAIR: Eugene Souleiman for Wella
MAKEUP: Deborah Lippmann for Lippmann Collection
SNAPSHOT: Strong and sculptural

THE SCOOP: While the structured, graphic collection Narciso Rodriguez put out for Fall 2010 didn't stray far from the fashions he's become famous for, there was one striking difference between this collection and his last few: The hair; it was down.

"It's quite rare for him, you know. He's usually about updo's," hair stylist Eugene Souleiman said of Rodriguez. "We both decided to leave the hair down tonight, as we wanted a younger, fresher look." He gave hair a graphically straight, sleek look that would adhere to the stark lines of the dresses.

The sculptural theme was continued on the brows, which were slashed with dark gray tones. "The brows create a strong, architectural line," said makeup artist Dick Page. "The lips give the girls a punch of color, but the the overall look is a little scrubby and rough."

Manicurist Deborah Lippmann rounded out the nails with zero polish, just her trusty nail buffer, and some good hand cream which was applied at Rodriguez's direction. "He wanted the nails to be very shiny, and the skin to look supple and moisturized," Lippmann explained.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All makeup by Shiseido. To bold out the brows, mix together Accentuating Cream Liner in Black with white cream eye shadow, for a creamy gray mixture that is then applied to the arches using an eyebrow brush. Give eyes a dusting of shine with Luminizing Satin Eye Color in High Beam White and Soft Beam Gold. Finish the look with a dash of Perfect Rouge Glowing Matte Lipstick in Whisper.

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: "The secret to this look is the blowdry," said Souleiman. He parted the hair in the center and blew dry it flat at the roots on each side. He then dried the side portions of hair downwards, but then directed them over to the side and back. This will help hair stay super flat. He further flattened hair by spritzing it with Wella High Hair Flat Iron Spray and alternating a flattening iron with a small tooth comb for a slick straight appearance.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: The key to the nails is good grooming. Shine them up with a nail buffer, and coat lots of rich hand moisturizer on top.

Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com

[flyme2themoon]

MAKEUP: Diane Kendal for Mac Cosmetics
HAIR: Didier Malige for Frédéric Fekkai
SNAPSHOT: Urban Surfer Girls

THE SCOOP: Deep, dark lips matched a predominantly brunette cast of models at Proenza Schouler's Fall 2010 show Wednesday night, lending backstage a slightly early-90s-grunge feel.

Makeup took inspiration from model Kristen McMenamy, who at the height of her career in the 90s, was known for her unconventional and somewhat androgynous look. Makeup artist Diane Kendal gave girls a deep dark lip -- purple for the blondes and charred red for the brunettes. "We mixed it with black eye shadow to make it matte and deep," said Kendal."We kept the skin very fresh and luminous with a contour underneath, and a dark brown grease paint around the eyes, but it's really all about the dark lips."

Tousled, textured hair was the story in the next room over, where stylist Didier Malige created a very laid-back look. "It's urban surfer girls, who love their hair and love its texture, but it has to be very simple," said Malige, who left girls' hair down and slightly messy. "It mixes well with the clothes, because there are a lot of darker tones and same with the hair."

The easy look was less about product and more about the way hair felt, but Mailge did spritz some Océanique spray to create a crispy finish, and add some gel for a bit of lift.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All products by Mac Cosmetics. Kendal brushed Dark Brown Cream Colour Base under and around the eyes, as well as in the crease and on top of the lash line. On skin, she used Studio Fix where needed, and Blot Powder to set and keep skin matte. She also applied NC 50 Studio Finish Concealer on cheek bones to contour. Blonde models received Smoked Purple Lipstick on lips, while brunettes got Charred Red mixed with Carbon Eye Shadow. Kendal made lip color deeper in the center and faded the edges.

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: All products by Frédéric Fekkai. Malige used Coiff Océanique Tousled Wave Spray for texture and Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel to add height.

Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com