Makeup: James Kaliardos
Hair: Odile Gilbert
Backstage Report: Theysken's Theory
2/13/2012 11:55:00 AM by Leah Melby
The Inspiration: "We're doing a T.T. girl, which stands for Theysken's Theory, of course, but is also a French term for a very Parisienne girl. She's gone to visit her grandmother for the weekend to take care of her, and she ends up taking some styling tips from her as well," explained MAC artist James Kaliardos. "It's a throwback look, like something her grandma would have done."
Makeup: The look was light on color, with a powdered face and lots of neutral tones. MAC's lipstick in Classic Nude was used on the cheeks, and Hazy Lilac for the lips. For the eyes, Kaliardos used a beige shadow mixed with some flesh-toned blush and finished with Haute and Naughty mascara.
Hair: Kérastase's Odile Gilbert was tasked with creating straight hair with a dryer, not a flat iron, in order to keep the look more real. "We did a light wave for his show last spring, and we wanted the same spirit, but in winter, you want you hair straight rather than curvy," said Gilbert, who did an imperfect middle-part to show off that real girl look. "You have your coat and your jacket, so if you have all that volume plus volume in your hair..." No good! And if you're a thick-haired girl with hair to spare? Gilbert and team took care of extra oomph by braiding the underlayer of hair, hidden from the eye but perfect for making hair look thinner.
Nails: All models got a mani with CND's neutral, light pink shade, Marshmallow Rose. Makeup pro Jin Soon explained the color choice: "There's a lot of color in his clothing, so we decided to use a very clean, soft pink that goes with everything."
Hair: Eugene Souleiman
Backstage Report: Jeremy Scott
2/15/2012 6:57:00 PM by Lauren Levinson
Inspiration: Designer Jeremy Scott is known for creating some of the wildest runway looks each season, and this time around was no different. Models in technicolor outfits strut down the catwalks looking like Harajuku-girl cartoon characters. Scott was inspired by club kids at raves and the '90s computer age.
Makeup: Kabuli for Mac Cosmetics created a "circuit board" of bindis across the models' foreheads, which he hand-crafted (all 456!) the night before. He adhered them with eyelash glue, and gave the girls shockingly bright blue lips (using Lipmixes and eye shadow). The flashing bulb in the center of each models' forehead was an internet score. According to Kabuli, the rest of the look (mascara with brown and gold eye shadow) is totally wearable and goes great will with a punchy-pink pout.
Hair: Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals braided their hair into a center, mohawk-like cornrow and used hair extensions to build wigs onto their heads (it tools about 30 to 40 minutes per model!). This turned them into Avatars or sci-fi versions of themselves. If this seems too extreme for anyone besides Nicki Minaj, try colorful clip-in strands.
Nails: Dashing Diva Design FX Bling strips with rainbow keyboard-shaped dots were applied to the model's nails. The adhesives can easily be peeled off with some cuticle oil. Fun fact: They were the same ones used in Katie Perry's iconic Smurf nail art tips.
Lucia Pica took her inspiration just one step further comparing the House of Holland girl to "Mork and Mindy" meets the Tour de France in the 70s. With that in mind, she wanted to create slightly glowy skin so she used tinted moisturiser on the face which was also heavily concealed. She then applied a bit of Shine Mixing Medium to the face to give off a 'sweaty' effect. Then, she brushed brows with Mixing Medium Mascara and applied a cherry pencil to the lips before filling them in with the perfect red lipstick; a blend of Ruby Woo, Lady Danger and Russian Red!
Next, Lucia applied mascara on the top lashes only. She then clumped the lashes together by using the top bit of the mascara wand adding a couple of layers until she was able to achieve the desired look.
Nail guru Sophy Robson was on hand (har har) to create a customised houndstooth nail to match the main print in the collection. She created a black houndstooth overlay that she applied over either pink or denim blue Leighton Denny varnish.
Source: stylebistro.com, fabsugar.co.uk
Last edited by flyme2themoon; 18-02-2012 at 04:06 PM.
The second girl in the House of Holland post is rocking the red lips look!..
And echo what you said on the Thakoon makeup, fm2tm!, I'm tempted to try that orange-red lipstick w/ electric pink powder trick, sounds like so much fun. Also love the nails there, looks a bit accidental but also like a minimal touch of elegance.
The makeup at Derek Lam is very pretty too, the 60s inspiration seems a bit more noticeable on the runway even though it's still very subtle..
Details on the makeup + hair at J. Mendel:
Makeup: Charlotte Tillbury
Hair: Orlando Pita
Runway the "Real" Way: J. Mendel Fall 2012
By Leah Melby
1. Prep Team
Before models even got to the makeup chair, their faces were prepped with Dr. Jart Water Fuse BB cream. The three-in-one lotion triples as a moisturizer, serum, and sunscreen and was used to even out skin tone. "I like to call it AC for your face. It instantly cools and soothes," said makeup artist Joy Fennell. Even in the winter months, the potion's good for raw, wind-whipped skin, and she particularly likes recommending it to clients who suffer from rosacea. The biggest stamp of approval? The models raved about it before leaving her chair.
2. Born This Way
"We wanted the girls to feel effortlessly cool—chic, but grunge. In my mind, I was thinking Charlize Theron, Kate Moss," said makeup artist Charlotte Tillbury for Maybelline. "It's like nature naturally blessed you with the perfect flush on the cheeks and lips, nice brows, and thick lashes." To fake flawlessness, Tillbury used Dream Nude Airfoam foundation and highlighter on the cheekbones, nose, and cupid's bow. For cheeks, she mixed two shades of the brand's Dream Bouncy blush: Coffee Cake as the base on the full cheekbone and Rose Petal on the apple "to give a bounce of color."
3. Easy on the Eyes
Tillbury stuck with neutral colors for the eyes, mixing Color Tattoo shadow in Too Cool with moisturizer for subtle color. Then she used a pencil in brown all around the eye, smudged, and topped with a bit of Beige For Good lipstick for "a wet look" (a hint went under the eye, too). For the lips, she cocktailed two products already on the face: a dab of blush for color and a top of the lipstick to neutralize it slightly.
4. Contempo Casual
"She's the contemporary woman of today," hairstylist Orlando Pita said, working on behalf of Phyto and T3. "The hair's a little waved and works both for day and evening." Hair was blown out with Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse and curled with T3's SinglePass Twirl iron. The loose ringlets turned into sexy, bouncy waves courtesy of Pita and team. They brushed them out and did some back-brushing for extra fluff.
5. Madame, Please
The Haven Spa for Essie team was backstage giving the models the final lacquered touch: two coats of light pink Mademoiselle plus a fast-drying topcoat. "It's very, very simple," they explained.
Thank you very much for one of the most interesting and full of stuff for inspiration thread, flyme2themoon Marc Jacobs, Derek Lam, Thakoon, Aquascutum But the absolute favorite is Jason Wu ... as always. The color of eyeshadows... magnificent!
Couldn't find the exact product names for this look in the thread, so I'll just post them, because I really liked the eye make up.
* Prep + Prime Moisture Infusion — hydrates and prepares skin
* Matchmaster Foundation SPF 15 — lightly blended over skin to perfect
* Studio Finish SPF 15 Concealer — applied only where needed
* Pro Sculpt Sculpt ing Powder Pro Palett e blended with Cubic Powder Blush — contours the cheek
* Pink Swoon Sheertone Powder Blush — highlights apple of cheek
* MAC Pro Marine Ultra and Landscape Green Chromagraphic Pencils — blended together and smudged into the upper lashline and upwards into the crease
* Minted Eye Kohl — blended into the crease for a highlighting effect
* MAC Pro Kelly Green Pigment and Club Eye shadow — blended over the shape to add texture and dimension to the eye
* Blooz Eye Kohl — sketched into the lashline to extend the eye
* Black Crème Liner — delicately applied to deepen lashes and accentuate the lashline
* Haute & Naughty Black Mascara — applied through the upper lashes
* Lip Conditioner SPF 15 — hydrates and provides the lip with a natural shine
When I get sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story.
^ Thank you for posting that extensive product breakdown! (Reminds me that I have a missing Blooz eye kohl that I need to find...)
Makeup: Wendy Rowe
Hair: Neil Moodie
The Burberry girls looked gorgeous, as usual.
Backstage Beauty Report | Burberry
Surprisingly, no one backstage at Burberry mentioned anything about this season’s town and country girl needing waterproof makeup for when she heads to the Cotswolds. Maybe it was because she’ll have an umbrella like those carried by the models at the close of the show — post-artificial rainstorm. Both the makeup artist Wendy Rowe and the hairstylist Neil Moodie made references to a city woman escaping to nature, weather not withstanding, as the muse for the look. “It’s the girl who leaves town and doesn’t mind getting her hands dirty,” Rowe said. She created a smoky effect using Burberry’s Sable shadow and a flat brush between lashes. Mulberry and shimmery Midnight Brown were applied lightly around the lid and Gold Trench under the eye. Number 3 concealer was dotted on the inner corner of the eye socket and cheekbones were sculptured with Earthy blush. Lips were primed with foundation and then either Sepia Pink or Mocha Glow tapped on with a finger. “A dark sumptuous eye,” said Rowe of the overall effect, stressing it not be too heavy or perfect, lest it not feel modern. Moodie described hair as a three-day-old blow-dry with “dropped out” curls. He used Bumble and Bumble Prep Spray and Thickening Spray spread from the middle of wet hair, through the ends before diffusing for natural texture. A large-barrel curling iron was then applied randomly throughout the hair and Brilliantine applied to the mussed-up ends.