At Tess Giberson, the designer played on the theme of "reassemble," employing a white-on-white color palette and rich textures like wide mesh and silk, with the beauty look inspired by an Icelandic warrior princess. Makeup artist Nina Soriano went flushed and feathery with a full brow and a neutral, highlighted lip. Hair was all about the "cool girl," a messy, voluminous look that made ample use of Bumble and bumble Surf Spray.
September 9, 2012 Backstage at Monique Lhuillier Spring 2013
Aquatic inspirations abounded backstage at Monique Lhuillier's ocean-exploring Spring 2013 collection.
Val Garland, for MAC, played up the water element by washing eyes with an electric blue hue. Inspired by "Jerry Hall on holiday in Mustique," Garland used MAC Chromacake in High Def Cyan--which she blended with MAC Mixing Medium--to make it more malleable, as well as MAC eye pencil in High Def Cyan and shadow in the same hue. "It's a really strong build up of color," said Garland, who added that the finish on the eye had both matte and wet elements. A bit of gold shimmer was added to the inner corner of the eye and brows were groomed. According to Garland, models' faces were made to "glisten." After applying MAC Prep + Prime, she contoured cheeks in a bone beige shade. Lips were "played down" with Luxe Lipstick.
To match the marine-like makeup, Odile Gilbert, for Kérastase Paris, created mermaid-esque "holiday hair." She began by parting each model's hair in the center, then sprayed Double Force Controle Ultime from mid-hair to tips. Then, with a three-barrel iron, Gilbert infused "crimp-like" waves. To create an "exaggerated" wet look at the top of the head, so girls looked like they were "emerging from the water," Gilbert used ample amounts of Elixir Ultime, layered with more Double Force hair spray.
Nails and toes, done by Candice Manacchio for CND, were meant to reference both the inside of a seashell as well as water's qualities of movement and reflection. Manacchio layered Lavender Pearl effect polish with Lilac Longing, a shade from CND's new Garden Party collection, which launches in May, 2013. "It 's like staring at your toes under the water at the beach," said Manacchio.
Makeup: Sil Bruinsma
Hair: Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri
Nails: Marian Newman
Rebecca Taylor Reinvents the Beachy Look For Spring
Posted on September 8, 2012 7:55PM by Maria Del Russo
Pack your bags, because Rebecca Taylor is taking you on a beach road trip. Inspired by a girl just stepping off a deserted beach, the look had us longing for a Summer that isn’t even quite over yet.
The look: Windswept hair, metallic nails, and bronzed cheeks The inspiration: A long road-trip vacation Who would wear it: A surfer babe headed to her next beach
Sil Bruinsma, key makeup artist for MAC, wanted the focus to be on the eyes. "It's a sultry look but not too made up," he said. To achieve the look, he kept the face colors matte but warm and used just a swipe of lip balm on the lips.
Bruinsma kept the brows natural and the eye colors monochromatic. He smudged MAC's Twink eye shadow ($18) on the entire top of the lash and along the outer lower lash line. He then used MAC's Teddy Kohl Eyeliner ($15) to line the eyes. "It's all a little smudged and not too perfect," he explained.
MAC tapped Marian Newman, a London-based nail artist, to do the nail design for the show. She used a metallic silver color for the nails. Just one coat of MAC Screaming Bright ($16) did the trick — not even a top coat was used. "One coat covers everything," she said.
The hair is where things got crazy. Aveda stylists Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri were calling the look "Road Trip" backstage. They started by blow-drying the hair for lots of volume.
Once the hair was big, Ryan and RIzzieri used a flat iron to add some bend. "It's like rolling the dice when you do this," Ryan said. "Each girl's hair is going to look a little different. It's a celebration of the individual."
To finish, Ryan used a technique that he called his "'80s move": he blow-dried hair spray into the hair to add extra volume, extra hold, and "a lot of wind," as he said. "It's like you've got the roof off the car in the Summer," he said. "Like you're on vacation!"
September 9, 2012 Backstage at Christian Siriano Spring 2013
Polly Osmond, lead makeup artist for MAC, wanted to create the face of a "practicing ballerina. It's very pretty but it's not perfect," said Osmond. After applying Mineralize Moisture SPF 15 Foundation to complexions, Osmond used MAC powder blush in Tenderling and Well Dressed on cheeks and foreheads and dabbed on Cream Colour Base in Luna with her fingertip to "pop the highlight." She then "matted the T-Zone" on each model to keep shine at bay. Eyes featured Runway Rose--a hue from the brand's new Forecaste eyes palette for spring 2013, while cream Color Base in Shell was added to the center of the eyelid. To keep things light, Osmond opted for brown mascara, rather than black, on top and bottom lashes. Lips were given a soft coat of Cremesheen Lipstick in Creme Cup, mixed with concealer.
Antoinette Beenders, global creative director for Aveda, shaped top-of-head ballerina buns, fraught with a disheveled air. "This is a girl who is at practice rather than a recital," she said. "It's an off-duty ballerina." Beenders first applied Aveda Pure Abundance Style Prep, then blow-dried the product into the hair. Next, she flipped models' heads and pulled hair into a high ponytail, infusing Light Elements Texturizing Creme, raking the style upwards with her fingers. After twisting hair into a "messy, textured bun," she then pinned the style at the base of the bun to secure it. "I'm wrapping hair around itself," said Beenders, who added that flyways were "purposefully" left to float freely. For hold, Beenders misted on Air Control Hair Spray, which she favors for its "very fine" finish. The product was then massaged into the sides to loosen the updo. "It's very wearable," she said. "It's very New York."
Nails, done by CND's Angi Wingle, showcased a shade from a new CND collection called Garden Party, which launches in May, 2013. The semi-sheer, shimmering prismatic hue, dubbed Grapefruit Sparkle, was meant to work on every skin tone and designed to provide a "subtle, luminescent" feel. Wingle applied two coats of the polish, followed by an Air Dry top coat, for shine. "It's feminine, ethereal and girly."
Makeup: James Kaliardos
Hair: Kevin Ryan
Nails: Candice Manacchio
September 8, 2012 Backstage at Nicole Miller Spring 2013
James Kaliardos, for MAC, was inspired by technology and nature for the beauty look at Nicole Miller. The focal point was the eye, a “soft smoky” blend of four purple shades from MAC’s Spoiled Rich palette — launching in the spring — housed in “Archie”-comics-inspired packaging. “I’m trying to restrain myself this season,” said Kaliardos, who used Haute & Naughty Too Black on lashes. “I’m using color in a natural way.” To give skin contour and highlight, he utilized Prep + Prime Highlighter pens, Taupe Shape Blush, new for spring, and Mineralize Moisture SPF 15 Foundation, which launches in fall 2013. Lips were kept neutral, with Posh Tone Mineralize Lipstick, also new for fall 2013.
Hair was kept “futuristic and modern,” with a feeling of “things moving faster,” according to the lead stylist, Kevin Ryan, who parted hair in the center, then applied Aveda Volumizing Tonic before infusing two tight “Avatar”-referencing fishtails, which Ryan said “feel like zippers.” Hair that “wanted to fall” was pinned back, and the remaining style was straightened and left to fall along the neckline. “It’s a nod to graphics,” said Ryan, who used tiny black elastics from Ricky’s NYC to hold his intricate braids.
Nails were given a “galaxy glam manicure” by Candice Manacchio, lead artist of CND. Inspired by Eighties sci-fi geometric shapes and diamond patterns, Manacchio created a customized mint shade, which referenced Miller’s spring collection. That shade was given a holographic coating of Sapphire Sparkle effects polish, and white “stars” were added with a detail brush. The inverted diamond — created by uniting two French-manicure Vs — featured Black Jack and supershiny Air Dry topcoat. Manacchio said it took 40 hours to make the 22 sets used for the show.
Makeup: James Kaliardos
Hair: Neil Moodie
Nails: Keri Blair
18th-Century Meets Williamsburg Hipster at Ruffian Spring 2013
Posted by klaudiakaczmarekk September 08, 2012 2:30 pm
It’s only day three of New York Fashion Week and the trends are already building up. Yesterday at Rag & Bone, Global Artistic Director for Revlon and Fashion Week veteran, Gucci Westman, opted for bold brows as a major focal point of the makeup look. Now, it looks as though James Kaliardos got the statement arches memo. Backstage at Ruffian, James led the MAC Cosmetics team to create a look inspired by “a Bouchet painting from the eighteenth century and Williamsburg hipsters.” The models wore a soft gray shadow on the lid and plenty of contour on the cheeks to compliment the brows. The lips were painted with none other than two shades of MAC Ruffian Lipstick from the collaboration between the design house and makeup brand. Most of the models wore Ruffian Naked, while just a few models wore Ruffian Red.
Over in the hair department, Neil Moodie and his team of Bumble and Bumble stylists created a cool, rockabilly coif that meshed with the “couture meets street” collection perfectly. He started out by layering Bumble and Bumble Prep Spray and Styling Cream from roots to ends and power drying “so hair is a little matted and textured.” To create the fun pompadour, Neil dried the hair with a large bristle brush to get some height and back-combed the bangs for that rock and roll look. He stayed away from blowing it all the way through so hair isn’t too smooth at the ends. The sides were sleek so the pouf received all the attention.
Our favorite part of the look was definitely the nails created by Keri Blair for MAC Cosmetics. Models wore pink, blue, yellow, or white polish with nail “jewelry” on the ring and pinky nails. Keri glued small, gold filigree right on top of the color. “I actually sat and hand bent each filigree to fit the nail bed,” said Keri. “It took me two hours.” Just don’t go searching for the nail colors yet. The four shades with a subtle reflection are a new texture MAC is testing out. “We are hoping that they come to life at some point,” said Keri. Us, too!
Makeup: Diane Kendal
Hair: Guido Palau
Backstage At Alexander Wang, The Future Is Bright
September 9, 2012
The supermodel surprise that caused more than a few oohs and ahs backstage at Alexander Wang last season was notably missing for Spring, save for a catwalk cameo from Erin Wasson. But there was still plenty of shock value in the catacombs of Pier 94. Following the Kristen Stewart affair scandal that dragged her name through the international tabloids, Liberty Ross was getting ready for the runway; then there were those strips of scalp tape.
“It’s severe and simple-looking,” Guido Palau suggested of the pieces of black—and, in some cases, glow-in-the-dark white—electrical adhesive he stuck to slicked-down middle parts. “It looks more futuristic and takes [the style] to another level so it’s not too simple,” he continued of the accessory he added to a classically placed low ponytail that he prepped with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow Dry Lotion, adding a slight bend to the lengths with Sultra’s The Bombshell oval curling iron. Enhancing the modern, otherworldly feel were fingers painted with two coats of Dune, the neutral beige that is part of Wang’s latest collaboration with Sally Hansen (which also includes White Out, a sheer alabaster), and about ten sets of bleached brows, purposely lightened by L’Atelier de Laurie’s Laurie Foley, and modeled by the show’s blond closers including Iselin Steiro, Magdalena Frackowiak, and Daria Strokous.
The makeup was “bold, strong, and sexy”—words we imagine Diane Kendal has all but memorized after seven-plus seasons of building up Wang’s signature “boyish” brows and not much else. Her focus was on arches again this season. Using NARS Eyeshadow in Blondie or Bali to create depth and thickness after treating complexions to a slathering of NARSskin Optimal Brightening Concentrate and a light coat of its Sheer Glow Foundation, Kendal dusted the high points of models’ faces with its new-for-Spring Light Reflecting Setting Powder. Simulating a slight flush with NARS Blush in Zen, she continued, contouring lids with its Cream Eyeshadow in Cayenne, a rich milk chocolate. Then Kendal did something that is gaining popularity for Spring: She skipped the mascara altogether, because glossy black lashes “make you look more pedestrian and normal,” she said. And the intrigue mounts.
Makeup: Diane Kendal
Hair: Guido Palau
David, Harper, And “Strong, Simple” Beauty Backstage At Victoria Beckham
September 10, 2012
Part of the fun of being backstage at a Victoria Beckham show is that it’s a family affair. Since the birth of her daughter two years ago, it’s become common practice for Beckham’s soccer star husband to emerge pre-presentation, Harper on his hip. The other thrill is to see the hair and makeup.
Beauty for Beckham is an evolution, much like her clothing design; “she’s still figuring out [that] side,” Guido Palau said, pointing out that she likes a strong look but wants to keep it simple—which is why Diane Kendal’s original orange lip was scrapped at the last minute for Spring’s early preference for the subtle and subdued. In its place were “contours” and “highlights,” two familiar words in New York this week, which Kendal created using a series of Maybelline New York Expert Wear Eyeshadows in Made for Mocha and Nutmeg, powder pigments that carved out the hollows of cheeks and the sockets of eyes with a bit more definition than you’d get from a cream product. Its Eye Studio Color Tattoo Eyeshadow in Too Cool, a creamy silver shimmer, provided a luminescent shine to cheekbones, brow ridges, and the bridge of the nose.
Palau’s look started out “unreferenced” and stayed that way. Operating under the guise that “something just feels right about minimal hair right now” and without a specific era or individual from which to cull inspiration, he went with a dual-textured middle part that was prepped with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam Mousse to provide a grip to the hair, which was rough-dried with its Powder Refresh 01 Aerosol Hair Powder Dry Shampoo in back and given long, purposeful flyaways. “The hairlines have got to be perfect,” Palau instructed his team as he smoothed down front sections with its Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist—the better to wear those perfectly crisp, buttoned-up-to-there collared shirts, we imagine.
“Very French,” “So Chic”—And Approachable!—Beauty Backstage At Joseph Altuzarra
September 9, 2012
“I don’t want to create jealousy,” Tom Pecheux said backstage at Altuzarra, “but [Joseph's] definitely in my top three.” The famed face painter was so transfixed with the designer’s Spring collection, in fact, that recollections of the makeup test were a little fuzzy. “I don’t 100 percent remember [Joseph's] exact words [at the test] because I was hypnotized by his clothes,” Pecheux admitted. He did manage to retain a few key objectives, though. “We wanted the girls to be extremely sophisticated and perfect, but in a simple way.”
This translated into a classic Catherine Deneuve-meets-Yves Saint Laurent face treated with MAC Face and Body Foundation and emphasized with a “very French” accent in the form of a navy, not black, stroke of eyeliner. “It’s royal blue, and I think it’s so chic,” Pecheux clarified of MAC’s Technakhol Pencil in Auto-de-blu, which he drew along models’ upper lash lines. “No wings,” he reminded his team of the lines’ elongated ends, which he wanted to be straight rather than turned upward. “I didn’t want any retro feeling,” Pecheux explained.
When asked why minimalism is emerging as an early trend at the shows in New York, Pecheux noted that “you don’t want anything feeling too heavy, because life is anything but light right now,” referencing the American and French elections and the European financial crisis. “In a way, people want to do less.” Paul Hanlon was on a similar tip, as he became one of many voices to reference Helmut Newton’s special brand of nineties-era minimalism this week, which he mixed with clean, precise equestrian- and Japanese-inspired lines. “But it’s very simple,” the coiffing star stressed of the sleek side parts he prepped with Frédéric Fekkai Full Blown Volume Styling Whip, gathered into a low ponytail that he coated with its Sheer Hold Hairspray for a flat-lacquered effect, and wove into what he called a “half-bow,” not a bun. “A bun would’ve been a cop out.”
Hanlon concurred that requests for a certain kind of subdued beauty have definitely been bandied about by designers so far this season—which is a good thing for people looking for an entry point into the world of high fashion. “Sometimes, when there’s a reference in the look, it can be a bit untouchable; when it’s simple, it makes you believe you can be that woman”—a woman, it’s safe to say, everyone in attendance was envisioning themselves as by the time Altuzarra’s finale hit the runway.
Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com
Oscar de la Renta
Makeup: Gucci Westman
Hair: Orlando Pita
September 11, 2012 Backstage at Oscar de la Renta Spring 2013
At Oscar de la Renta, Orlando Pita and Gucci Westman, global artistic director for Revlon, were both inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s Holly Golightly in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” “It’s Holly Golightly meets Keith Haring,” Pita explained as he added colored pieces of hair — blue, pink or yellow, depending on the model — and teased hair into a volumized French twist, finishing with a generous application of hair spray.
Westman wanted girls to look “naughty but nice — I wanted it to feel colorful and pretty.” Westman kept skin luminous with Revlon PhotoReady Color Correcting Primer, PhotoReady Perfecting Primer and PhotoReady Cream Blush in Flushed. Lips were the centerpiece of the look: Westman used Revlon Just Bitten Lipstain + Balm in Crave, Revlon Baby Stick for Lips and Cheeks in Pink Passion and Revlon ColorStay Ultimate Suede Lipsticks in Muse and Preview to create a suede-matte fuchsia lip. Eyes got a bit of ColorStay Eyeliner in brown, curled lashes and a swipe of Revlon Illuminance Crème Shadow in Not Just Nudes. Several girls got freckles — the eye-pencil variety.
Nails were finished with Shock, a vibrant pink; Envy, a sea green, or Flirt, a refined opal white shade. All are limited-edition shades that the designer will begin taking pre-orders for in October.
September 12, 2012 Backstage at Michael Kors Spring 2013
A Sixties-via-the-Nineties vibe characterized the beauty at Michael Kors. Dick Page, Shiseido’s artistic director, focused on adding “a pop of color” to the eyes with a face that was otherwise soft and subtle. He began by applying Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold and High Beam White to create lightness on the eyelid, upper cheek and under-eye area. Next, using a soft fluff brush, he created what he called “a floating graphic arc” along the natural shape of the lid — in turquoise for blondes and redheads, green for brunettes. The upper lash line got a trace of white, followed by Luminizing Satin Face Color in High Beam White and a light coat of Perfect Mascara Full Definition in black. Brows were emphasized using Shimmering Cream Eye Color in a shade appropriate for each girl. Lips were finished with Perfect Rouge in Vision, a pale nudish-pink.
Orlando Pita did a deep side part and swept hair across the head, using elastic bungee fasteners to create two small sections of hair that then were covered with another panel of hair and secured with a thin barrette.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Hair: Paul Hanlon
A Modern Take on Grunge at 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2013
Posted by klaudiakaczmarekk September 11, 2012 3:30 pm
Backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the models all looked like “one big girl band.” The look was rock and roll, yet sophisticated. Francelle for NARS Cosmetics created a cool, modern take on grungy makeup complete with ten to 12 coats of mascara.
The collection was filled with embellishments, plaid, floral, and even ‘I Love NY’ T-shirts. Francelle was inspired by all these factors. “All of a sudden, I went towards my high school days as me being a grunge girl with my flannel T-shirt and black eye liner and mascara. But I wanted to do a very modern take on that,” said Francelle. “I wanted to duplicate a look as if these girls are playing at Coachella. They are kind of sun-kissed, but have an edgy, bold black mascara eye.”
To get the chunky mascara look, Francelle began by applying two coats of Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara and then curling the lashes. Once that dried, she went back and started clumping the lashes together and caking on mascara. She added a tiny bit of pink eyeshadow from the Bouthan Duo Eyeshadow (new for spring 2013) just for depth. For the face, she applied Casino Bronzing Powder on the apples of the cheeks and the bridge of the nose. “I left the forehead and chin bare because I didn’t want too much of a finished look,” said Francelle. She finished off the look with Biscayne Park Satin Lip Pencil (a cross between a lipstick and a lipgloss – new for spring 2013). The lip color was too shiny for her liking, so she matted it out with pressed powder.
If you want to recreate the look at home, Francelle recommends dialing down the amount of mascara and concentrating on clumping the lashes together with only a few coats. If you don’t like black, try a colored mascara. “What’s so great about Fashion Week is that people can gather their own inspiration and have their own take on that – that’s always inspiring to me,” she added.
The modern grunge makeup looked extra cool with big, teased hair created by Paul Hanlon for Fekkai and nails by Michelle Saunders for Essie who painted half of each nail with Essie Chinchilly and the other half with Brooch the Subject.
“A clean youthful, rock ’n’ roll type of girl” was how Tom Pecheux, working for MAC Cosmetics, described his makeup look for Edun’s collection.
Using his fingers, Pecheux prepped the skin with MAC Comfort Cream Mineralized Moisture SPF 15 to provide natural coverage. To showcase the cheekbones, he used Sculpt and Shape Powder in Bone Beige. “I don’t think it’s about the makeup, “ said Pecheux. “I think it’s about the cool girl attitude on the runway.” To complement that attitude, Pecheux applied Feline Kohl Power Pencil to the outer corner of the eye in a “v” shape to connect the top and bottom lashes. Mineral Rich Lipsticks in Posh Tone and Luxe Naturale were applied to the lips.
“The inspiration for today is model’s day off,” said James Pecis, lead hairstylist for Bumble and bumble. Pecis added a couple of hair extensions and applied Bumble and bumble’s Thickening Spray to each model’s hair to create a consistent texture. Pecis also used the humidity from backstage to shape the hair.
To finish off the look, Essie’s nail polish in Jazz was applied to the each girl’s nails.