[DosViolines]

nytimes.com

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May 25, 2006 Skin Deep Sans Makeup, S'il Vous Plaît Claude Salis The French hold the no-makeup look in high regard. Sylvie Dutour, left, a cosmetologist demonstrates the technique at a cafe in Paris. By ELAINE SCIOLINO PARIS CHIC French women don't wear makeup. At least they pretend not to. Their goal is to glow, with invisible pores and highly polished skin. Too much makeup, French women say, makes a woman seem older, or even worse, as if she makes a living walking the streets. Eric Gaillard/ REUTERS Contrasting the overdone look, which French Elle attributed to California, with an unadorned appearance of Juliette Binoche. "It really astonishes me the way American women wear so much makeup," said Laura Mercier, the French creator of a line of cosmetics and skin care who lives in New York. "In America, even teenage girls are overly made-up. And when you are overly made-up, you send out the message that you are overly sexual, that you want to be visible to attract men." By contrast, Ms. Mercier said: "French women are not flashy. They must be subtle. The message must not be, 'I'm spending hours on my face to look beautiful.' " Michèle Fitoussi, one of France's leading social commentators and a columnist at French Elle magazine, described the painted-doll look preferred by many American women with one word: "vulgaire." Certainly, the French delight in defining themselves in opposition to America, no matter what the topic — food, wine, diplomacy, even beauty. But this attitude is complicated — a blend of chauvinism and fascination, perhaps with a touch of envy. The French admire the Americans, even as they criticize and dismiss them. A recent issue of French Elle poked fun at what it called the "too much" look of the "California Beauty," illustrated by a model in a shocking pink shirt, bicycle shorts, an orange print scarf, mirrored sunglasses, a Louis Vuitton handbag and gaudy gold high-heeled sandals, earrings, necklaces, chain belt, bangles and rings. Nicole Richie and Britney Spears have that overdone look, the French say. Madonna is forgiven since she is seen as a hard-nosed businesswoman and free spirit. Jennifer Lopez doesn't count because she is Hispanic and therefore culturally more exotic. But this disdain is aimed less at specific women than at the overall overdone look. This season, the unadorned look is more in vogue than ever in France. The weekly magazine L'Express calls it "Le no makeup" look. French Elle described it this month as "Le bare face," defined as "nude skin, shimmering slightly." To women in France, the too-made-up look represents something more profound than simply one's taste in skin care. It is also the mark of the desperate housewife type who tries too hard. "The most beautiful makeup for a woman is passion" is the famous quotation of the designer Yves Saint Laurent. "But cosmetics are easier to buy." Indeed, at the first "beauty cafe" in Paris, the talk is about respect, not transformation. For two hours on four recent evenings, the Columbus Café — a rival of Starbucks — transformed the second floor of its outlet near the Bastille into a place where women came for free lessons about skin care. "Today beauty is not something only on the surface," Sandra Renzi, a cosmetologist with the Darphin skin care line, lectured to women over coffee and Perrier one evening. "It also comes from inside. Essential oils that contain tiny molecules that penetrate your skin must come first." At another session, Sylvie Dutour, a cosmetologist with the Bourjois line, revealed how to respect the eyebrow line and the importance of a lipstick-free mouth if the eyes are shadowed and lined with color. Even for Olivia Hollert, a 22-year-old nurse who considers herself a makeup fanatic, Americans overdo it. "American girls worship the cult of the 'ideal woman,' " she said. "No part of the face seems to be forgotten. And when you use too much makeup, it means you are hiding from yourself." In a 2004 poll by the market research group Mintel, 64 percent of American women said they sometimes use foundation, compared with 47 percent of French women; 81 percent of Americans use lipstick compared with 70 percent of French women and 59 percent of Americans use blusher, compared with 43 percent. The image du jour of "le no makeup" look is Audrey Tautou. One cover of French Elle this month featured Ms. Tautou, 29, the star of "The Da Vinci Code," without jewelry or any visible makeup except for a slight tint on her lips. Even her beauty marks have not been airbrushed away. Inside the magazine, a full-page photo of her in a frizzy black wig with blackened eyes and red satin cocktail dress bears the caption, "The Fiancée of Frankenstein." The French actresses Juliette Binoche and Nathalie Baye are regularly featured in magazines for embracing the natural look. In politics, the Socialist lawmaker Ségolène Royal is busily seducing the country in part because of her grass-roots style, broad smile and fresh-faced look. In some polls on next year's presidential election, she leads the competition. Ms. Royal, 52, who is portrayed as a young politician, wears almost no makeup and brushes her shoulder-length hair often. When she had an upper tooth straightened last year, the daily newspaper Libération labeled it an un-French act. "The French people's favorite Socialist is now endowed with an American smile," Libération wrote. That may be because French women still lag far behind Americans in cosmetic surgery and sundry injections to make them appear less flawed (although they are catching up). Catherine Deneuve, for example, with her apparent facial interventions and painted face, is sometimes seen as an object of pity. Ms. Deneuve, 62, the icily beautiful star of "Belle de Jour," was once considered so perfect that she was named France's "Marianne," the idealized embodiment of the French Republic. The face of Chanel in the 1970's, she recently was named the face of MAC's Icon cosmetics line. She admits to wearing makeup even when gardening. "Poor Catherine," said Terry de Gunzburg, creator of the By Terry makeup line. "She let herself get hooked by the syndrome of Dorian Gray, of eternal youth. It's sad." On the whole, French women like to portray themselves as more balanced, more inclined to pamper themselves and take pleasure in daily rituals than Americans. In its most extreme, America is seen as a youth-obsessed, throwaway, quick-fix culture where women are more likely to look artificially young and totally "done." According to this view, sexuality has to be subtle. "There's always a rapport with the erotic but it's hidden," Ms. Fitoussi said. "The French love mystery, the game of seduction. That's why we respect perfume, why lingerie is so important." (A poll in 2003 concluded that 87 percent of French men and women believe that lingerie is an important part of life.) For Ms. Fitoussi, who wears glasses and little makeup, it's all about choosing. Made-up eyes means wearing neutral lipstick. Red lipstick means dressing in black. "Makeup dates you," she said. "Like a tree." Instead, French women invest more time aiming for perfect, blemish-free skin. If there is an obsession, it is tight pores. Even French women of modest means are much more likely than American women to get treatments in spas or clinics that scrub, polish, buff, massage and cream their skins. The French government is complicit. Any woman who can claim to have a medically diagnosed skin condition, from eczema to acne, can receive a regimented "thermal cure" at spas in France once a year. The French taxpayer covers as much as 65 percent of the cost. Not everyone agrees that the French emphasis on restraint translates into chic and beautiful women. "In France, women think they know better than others," Ms. de Gunzburg said. "There is a self-sufficiency, an attitude of 'I don't give a damn what you're telling me.' "Tell me who's chic here in France? Give me one example. Women don't make any effort here." Frenchmen, meanwhile, (who are getting their faces creamed and polished more often) are quick to say they don't like women whose skin color rubs off on their clothes or who look as if they have smeared their lips with tinted Vaseline. That sentiment is not new. The narrator of Marcel Proust's 1927 novel, "Finding Time Again," makes the obviously painted and powdered Gilberte a bit pathetic. "I sensed that, despite myself, I was staring at her in my curiosity to discover what it was about her that was so changed," the narrator says. "This curiosity was, however, soon satisfied when she wiped her nose, despite all the precautions she employed. From all the colors which remained on the handkerchief, turning it into a rich palette, I saw that she was entirely made-up." Maïa de La Baume contributed reporting for this article.

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May 25, 2006 A Regimen of Moderation and Illumination MAÏA DE LA BAUME FRENCH women insist that beauty is not merely a look but a behavior: Modesty, not flash. Neutral shades of clothing. Discreet flirtation. Fresh faces and au naturel hair. Don't let them fool you. Because French women prefer "le no makeup look" doesn't mean they don't wear makeup. "French women use makeup but it always looks like they didn't," said Elizabeth Martorell, beauty editor of French Elle. "They buy mainly lipstick and mascara, but always in brown or beige shades of color. They focus on natural transparency or on a nice and classical red-colored lipstick with gloss on top. According to Elodie Monnier, a professional makeup artist, a French woman might use these products in her search for the understated: FOR HYDRATION and make-up preparation, Clinique's Total Turnaround Visible Skin Renewer; $32.50 (1.7 ounces). TO ADDRESS WRINKLES, Estée Lauder's Advanced Night Repair Eye Recovery Complex; $48 (0.5 ounce). FOR A SHEER LOOK, Laura Mercier's Moisturizing Foundation; $40 (1.5 fluid ounces). TO ILLUMINATE AROUND THE EYES and nostrils, Yves Saint Laurent's Radiant Touch Highlighter; $35. FOR A SLIGHT TOUCH OF POWDER, Laura Mercier's Pressed Powder; $30. FOR A TAN, Cargo's Bronzer; $25. FOR THE EYES, Giorgio Armani's light beige eye shadow, No. 36, for the lid, and Armani's brown eye shadow, No. 10, close to the lashes; $24. FOR THE LASHES, Givenchy's Parad'eyes Volume, Length and Curl Mascara in "Brown Legend" or "Dream in Black"; $22. FOR THE LIPS, Yves Saint Laurent's Tinted Lip Balm Baume d'Ete No. 6; $22.50.FOR A FINISHING TOUCH, Givenchy's Prisme Again! Compact Powder Quartet No. 6, "Fantasy Gold"; $43. MAÏA DE LA BAUME

[LeonieAlexandria]

omg they talk about me haha.
I never ever wear 'make up', i always try so hard to 'polish' my skin etc... great article! KARMA

[Hipkitten]

Consider me français! I definitely subscribe to this philosophy. Thanks for posting

[katie-licious]

I much prefer a glowing, fresh look to my skin, than overly made-up matte skin. I have to try very hard to acheive this though

[The_Ida]

Count me in. Hate that hollywood plastic fake look with piles and piles of goo on the face. Ick.

[VainJane]

Geez, are they really that obsessed with Americans? Haha, I don't spend a lot of time comparing myself with women from other countries.

I don't know how things are done in France, but growing up I always considered the American look to resemble something from American Eagle ads....not a ton of make-up: very healthy looking, like you just finished surfing or something.

Oh well....coincidentally I do follow that "I look like I'm wearing no make-up even though I really am" belief.

My regime: Either light BE foundation or dior base de teint instead; mascara; and a lip stain with the occasional light bit of blush (I'm very pale).

[miu_miu]

I think this is all very true, and it's definitely a philosophy I subscribe to. The key lesson from this, which should apply to everyone is that if you don't have a good base, your makeup won't look good. This makes me realise it's so worth it, the amount of time and money I spend taking care of my skin!

[The_Ida]

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Originally Posted by VainJane Geez, are they really that obsessed with Americans? Haha, I don't spend a lot of time comparing myself with women from other countries.

Well, America isn't flooded with French movies, French tv or anything French. Europe is drowning in crappy American tv-shows, movies, music, basically everything, you get kinda sick of it.

[newprincesita]

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Originally Posted by The_Ida Well, America isn't flooded with French movies, French tv or anything French. Europe is drowning in crappy American tv-shows, movies, music, basically everything, you get kinda sick of it.

Yeah South america too, unfortunatedly, we´re flooded with american crappy stuff.

I LOVE the french approach to makeup protrayed in the article.

Women who look like they tried too hard are lame, and women who know how to keep some secrets and tricks to themselves are irresistible.

[Jane Loves Marc]

ugh more american hating. honestly, why not just talk about how the french do their makeup and leave out how ALL AMERICAN WOMAN AND TEENS LOOK LIKE THEY WALK THE STREETS AND 'VULGAIRE' AND GAUCHE. get a grip. we're always hailing the french as the chicest of the chic and beauty godesses, but I found they looked disheveled and even unhygenic.
i get so so sick of this.

[mini me]

yep, fresh look would be never out of step...as a matter of fact i prefer the looks of French actress to some overly made up american celeb, even though we r flooded with american tv, movies....many of them are crap...

[Uchina]

I love how I look in natural makeup, but playing with colours is just too much fun! It's my inner club kid

[Plastic'sWife]

Great article Dos!

[littlemissmagic]

thanks so much for posting the nyt article - it was really interesting! i love the french ideal of perfect skin, no makeup, but at the same time, i love to play around. can't go without my mac eye shadows and i love bold lips with neutral clothes a la prada!

[TheGlassAngel]

Yes. The french are interesting to me too