How to Join
the Fashion Spot / the Style Spot / Personal Style
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
14-10-2005
  1
flaunt the imperfection..
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
Gender: femme
Posts: 50,644
What is modern?...article
Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Fancy That!
And the debate rages on. What is the definition of ‘modern’? It’s a common practice for fashion pros to try to put their finger on what defines ‘modern’ as they observe the styles being proposed by designers for the coming season. Not long after the spring 2006 collections ended in New York, and Milan was history, the ‘New Minimalism’ was being touted as the unofficial barometer of this notion and was the reigning Look of the Moment. Its obvious appeal lies in a certain paring down, stripping away, simplification, and purity of line, but this time around it is not as antiseptic and less scarily austere as the minimalism of the 90’s and there is far more emphasis on design and on deliciously delicate detail (a “softer, kinder” minimalism?)
This, coupled with an eased up silhouette, and almost all white or pale neutral color palette, was exemplified by Francisco Costa for Calvin in New York, who received unanimously glowing reviews and praise from both retailers and members of the press for his efforts, and later by Miuccia Prada in Milan, who is still considered to be THE MOST influential designer showing in that city and who continues to be a major force to recon with on a global scale. But of course, that was before the collections unveiled in Paris, the city where one expects to be inspired and creatively tickled. (Even when it’s not Paris’s “best season ever”, it’s still the highlight of the month long shows).
And guess what happened? Along came Nicolas Guesquiere who kicked things off with a critically acclaimed and crowd pleasing collection for Balenciaga that was a far cry from minimal. Highly embellished, deliciously frothy, decorated, and ornamental, it was an interesting and unexpected juxtaposition of Baroque modernized with bits of rock and roll and plenty of attitude (not to mention a lineup of the best models on the planet and some decidedly modern and sexy looking sandals). Cathy Horyn called it a “spree of brilliance and madness”.
But the following day, Cathy was apparently jolted by what she saw on the runway of Olivier Theyskens for Rochas, a collection that carried the fin du siecle into 2005. It was a beautiful evolution of what Theyskens had presented for fall (which was based on Victoriana) and was far more subtle, more pared down and quieter than Balenciaga. Horyn praised Olivier for his thoughtful and intelligent approach to design and his creation of a “modern uniform” (in this case, a languid somewhat relaxed pantsuit). In her words, “Olivier Theyskens’ collection tonight for Rochas clearly, handsomely and calmly established what is modern in fashion. It erased the day. It made you rethink everything you had seen since the French spring 2006 shows began on Sunday.” (Just a note, the ‘Man of the Hour’, Olivier Theyskens will be the center of attention in New York later on this month when he will be guest of honor at a party at Barneys New York, and on October 28th, he, along with fellow designers-“The Romantics”- Valentino, Alberto Ferretti, and Ralph Rucci, will be feted at Fashion Group International’s 22nd Annual Night of Stars).
The conflict and conundrum which apparently left the fashion writer befuddled was evident in her October 6th review, “while Balenciaga was rich and provocative, the Rochas show, with its tranquil palette and emphatic, uncluttered line, raises a question about what is modern.” At the very least it makes for a lively fashion dual.”
To my way of thinking, it’s not as much about a “dual” as it is about a ‘dual’ ity. Why must one philosophy win out over the other or negate the other? Why does one have to choose between plain and fancy? Why can’t both be relevant? Why can’t both happily coexist? I can just see the ongoing dual raging right now within my closets as the heavily embellished items duke it out with the simpler ones as they vie for more space, and ask, “Can’t we all just get along?”
The way I see it, there is a time and place for everything- all looks are relevant depending on one’s needs, wants, and desires. Who would want a wardrobe of just one look, just one designer, just one ANYTHING (regardless of how wonderful and fabulous it is?) “Variety is the spice of life” and “Man does not live by bread alone” (or in this case, “Woman does not live by ‘thread’ alone”). As Sara Mower put it, (in her review of the highly varied Chanel spring 2006 collection for Style.com), “In reality, fashion is now more about the availability of a gazillion simultaneous choices rather than the single, old-school designer diktat.” Exactly!
Some days you may want- or require plain, straightforward and simplified clothes. The next day, you may crave (or need) something more celebratory, expressive, decorative. If this seems schizophrenic, it is. But schizophrenic and bi-polarity as it applies to fashion is not a condition that requires medical attention – it’s the essence of modern and it was even captured in the title of Tuesday, October 11th’s ‘Fashion’ review in the New York Times, “Two Schools for Spring: Ruffled and the Reverse” by Cathy Horyn. The essence of ‘modern’ is also in knowing when each is appropriate. But perhaps the most modern of all is mixing the two together the way it was done on some of the most influential runways in the world. It continues to be all about offhanded, unexpected mixes and unorthodox pairings. It’s a balancing act and you can get away with almost anything if you know how to wear it.
Part of the success of Balenciaga was the way in which Nicolas Guesquiere mixed “architecture with airiness” (according to WWD), austere with ornamental, hard with soft, masculine with feminine, street with couture. Here in New York, some examples of clever mixing were seen at Ralph Lauren, where a lavishly embroidered frock coat was shown over a humble cotton striped t shirt, slouchy white jeans, accessorized with a gutsy wide brown belt and masses of beads, or the way in which a fitted patchwork denim skirt suit was softened with a white ruffled cotton blouse. Ralph’s use of shiny gold leather bags and shoes with sporty white cotton pieces was another good example. Michael Kors nonchalantly tossed a classic and chic khaki trench over a full midcalf tulle skirt dusted with gold sequins and added a mile long muffler, and Vera Wang put a heavy white cotton menswear shirt under a feminine black taffeta coat with puffed sleeves, belting it with a heavy brown leather belt to further ‘throw’ the look off.
The best part is that these are all things you can do without even buying new clothes- just by shopping in your own closet and experimenting with different proportions, unexpected pairings, and interesting juxtapositions. Think out of the box!
-Marilyn Kirschner


http://www.lookonline.com/blogger.html

__________________
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior



  Reply With Quote
 
14-10-2005
  2
flaunt the imperfection..
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
Gender: femme
Posts: 50,644
it's a long article..
but it touches on a lot of what we've been talking about here...

minimalism....
schizophrenic style...
what is modern...
not following any particular designer dictat...
mixing two or more styles and finding the right balance ...


i highlighted the most relevant bits...
this is what i am all about right now...
**mixing it up and coming up with unexpected combinations...

__________________
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior



  Reply With Quote
14-10-2005
  3
no photos, no photos
 
purechris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,887
good article

schizo-chic in the news!!!

__________________
happiness is the fat girl dancing in the corner
  Reply With Quote
14-10-2005
  4
trendsetter
 
Avant Garde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 1,455
thats a very interesting article. i think that right now, we arent far enough into the future to wear space suits or whatever futureristic jetson style clothing we may wear; but we arent in the past anymore with pettcoats and corsets. we keeep recyling trends from the past over and over again, because i dont think we have a certain set style right now. like the 60's had mod, the 80's had big hair, and the 2000's have... well im not so sure. just my opinion on what is modern right now.

  Reply With Quote
14-10-2005
  5
Power to the 99%
 
fashionista-ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hardly ever at Barney's
Gender: femme
Posts: 13,469
Speaking of duality, what is this about Alberto Ferretti? Is there something we don't know??? :p

I liked what Joan Kaner said about this (in buyers thread)--I thought she expressed it well.

I know where I want to go ... soft and deceptively simple clothes made of beautiful fabrics with beautiful details ... but finding that (particularly when Barney's fails to carry a spectacular Lanvin resort collection ) is proving difficult ...

__________________
There's a need for more individuality today, and my job is to cater to women, not dictate to them.
--Alber Elbaz
  Reply With Quote
14-10-2005
  6
Iowa Girl Loves Fashion
 
Erin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Omaha, NE
Gender: femme
Posts: 14,665
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRADA_on_pointe
but we arent in the past anymore with pettcoats and corsets. we keeep recyling trends from the past over and over again, because i dont think we have a certain set style right now. like the 60's had mod, the 80's had big hair, and the 2000's have... well im not so sure
It's indeed hard to put your finger on what the 00's has... And I have to point out that the 80's will probably be left in the 80's, unless power suits some how make a comeback.

The 60's had Mod, the 70's had bellbottoms and disco style, I'll skip the 80's... and we come to the 90's. I think that's really when fashion boomed. The decade of THE supermodel. I think we now are recycling trends because we're so fickle in how we dress. Trends are in and out in a year (two or three at most), and there just seems to be so much more to experiment with. So many people don't want to define themself with being associated with just one style... today I could be wearing a Juicy tracksuit, for example, and tomorrow I could be stepping out in Prada head-to-toe. I think that's the beauty of things today... so much more is more acceptable and wearable... as in, you can be more daring and it's fine... and we don't have to associate just one decade with one style. I think a lot of things have happened in the New Millenium that we can say that about. Look at music... 70's had rock and disco... 80's had a bunch of fluff and some rock, 90's was grunge and alternative, and now... what... hip/hop, pop, soft-rock, etc. etc.

My point is... it's good that now fashion isn't being so categorized or generalized. Variety is what makes the world go round, and thank goodness everybody isn't doing the mod thing or the bellbottoms thing... people seem to be finding their true style, and THAT'S modern.

  Reply With Quote
14-10-2005
  7
trendsetter
 
Avant Garde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 1,455
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin
It's indeed hard to put your finger on what the 00's has... And I have to point out that the 80's will probably be left in the 80's, unless power suits some how make a comeback.

The 60's had Mod, the 70's had bellbottoms and disco style, I'll skip the 80's... and we come to the 90's. I think that's really when fashion boomed. The decade of THE supermodel. I think we now are recycling trends because we're so fickle in how we dress. Trends are in and out in a year (two or three at most), and there just seems to be so much more to experiment with. So many people don't want to define themself with being associated with just one style... today I could be wearing a Juicy tracksuit, for example, and tomorrow I could be stepping out in Prada head-to-toe. I think that's the beauty of things today... so much more is more acceptable and wearable... as in, you can be more daring and it's fine... and we don't have to associate just one decade with one style. I think a lot of things have happened in the New Millenium that we can say that about. Look at music... 70's had rock and disco... 80's had a bunch of fluff and some rock, 90's was grunge and alternative, and now... what... hip/hop, pop, soft-rock, etc. etc.

My point is... it's good that now fashion isn't being so categorized or generalized. Variety is what makes the world go round, and thank goodness everybody isn't doing the mod thing or the bellbottoms thing... people seem to be finding their true style, and THAT'S modern.
I agree with everything in your post, and Im glad you get what I was typing. The part where you said that now in the 00's we can make our own fashion choices, and wear different items and trends, makes a whole lot more sense to me now.

  Reply With Quote
15-10-2005
  8
flaunt the imperfection..
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
Gender: femme
Posts: 50,644
i also have to say...that i am not wanting to buy anything new...
just wanting to wear the things i have in a different way than before....

which is very challenging actually...

__________________
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior



  Reply With Quote
15-10-2005
  9
when the rats run riot
 
em 692's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 4,036
This article made a good point about "schizophrenic style", dressing one way today but different the next. If somebody asked me to describe my style, it would be very hard. I can't put my style into one category, there are just so many different aspects that make up one "style".

I agree completely with what Erin said, about the 00's not really fitting under one genre. It's a mix, with just so much variety, so many options. What's modern is a mix of old and new. Trends get recycled, yes, but that just gives us more chances to wear the ones we really love.

__________________

  Reply With Quote
19-10-2005
  10
flaunt the imperfection..
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
Gender: femme
Posts: 50,644
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin
It's indeed hard to put your finger on what the 00's has... And I have to point out that the 80's will probably be left in the 80's, unless power suits some how make a comeback.

The 60's had Mod, the 70's had bellbottoms and disco style, I'll skip the 80's... and we come to the 90's. I think that's really when fashion boomed. The decade of THE supermodel. I think we now are recycling trends because we're so fickle in how we dress. Trends are in and out in a year (two or three at most), and there just seems to be so much more to experiment with. So many people don't want to define themself with being associated with just one style... today I could be wearing a Juicy tracksuit, for example, and tomorrow I could be stepping out in Prada head-to-toe. I think that's the beauty of things today... so much more is more acceptable and wearable... as in, you can be more daring and it's fine... and we don't have to associate just one decade with one style. I think a lot of things have happened in the New Millenium that we can say that about. Look at music... 70's had rock and disco... 80's had a bunch of fluff and some rock, 90's was grunge and alternative, and now... what... hip/hop, pop, soft-rock, etc. etc.

My point is... it's good that now fashion isn't being so categorized or generalized. Variety is what makes the world go round, and thank goodness everybody isn't doing the mod thing or the bellbottoms thing... people seem to be finding their true style, and THAT'S modern.
hi erin...
i don't know how old you are so i don't know if you actually experienced the 80's yourself...
but i have to say that i really disagree that the 80's didn't have anything other than the 'power suit'...
a lot of what we have seen so far in this decade has actually been recycled from the 80's...whether the teens and 20-somethings who are doing it realize it or not...
one glaring mainstream example i can give is LEGGINGS...
that was HUGE in the 80's...
also cowboy boots...converse...skinny jns...layering...volume...etc...
**not to mention the HUGE influence that the japanese avantgarde from the 80's is having at the designer level today...ie-lanvin, rochas, etc...

just look at marc by mj...totally 80's...
it was the 'alternative' music scene that procuded a lot of this...
it-lots of brit pop/new wave...
depeche mode, the cure, bauhaus, the ramones, the b-52's, elvis costello, style council...i could go on and on...

but ...
i wonder if you could point out what the style of the 90's was...
i know that grunge/nirvana came along...
and everyone started tying flannel shirts around their waists...
but i don't really call that fashion or style...
so what was 90's style?...minimalism?...
maybe, i guess...but that is also kind of boring, no?

i have never really been able to pin down an overall style for the 90's...
maybe you could help me out here since you seem to have a strong idea about it?...
thanks!...

and i do agree that finding your own style is truly modern...:p

__________________
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior



  Reply With Quote
19-10-2005
  11
slightly dizzy
 
tott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,261
Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
hi erin...
i don't know how old you are so i don't know if you actually experienced the 80's yourself...
but i have to say that i really disagree that the 80's didn't have anything other than the 'power suit'...
a lot of what we have seen so far in this decade has actually been recycled from the 80's...whether the teens and 20-somethings who are doing it realize it or not...
Absolutely, softie! The 80's were more than mega-wide shoulders and neon...

Just like the 70's were a lot more than afros and platforms...

Great designs, that would still work today, were also there.

When we think back those of us who were around tend to remember the good stuff... But if you want to characterize or caricaturize a decade you go for the obvious.


Last edited by tott; 19-10-2005 at 02:40 PM.
  Reply With Quote
19-10-2005
  12
V.I.P.
 
Curious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: VA, US
Gender: femme
Posts: 5,584
This article is great! And it really makes me feel better about being 'schizo' One day, I'm channeling Audrey Hepburn and the next I'm channeling Lydia Deets (okay.. maybe not that dramatic but you get the idea)! Nice to know I'm modern...

As far as 90s style - you're right... it is indistinct imo. I often wonder if it's because we're still too close to the decade If these things become more apparent in retrospect...

Anyhow, from today's retrospect, I remember the early nineties being 'alternative' or even goth if you will. Everyone I knew was channeling hippy meets punk. Everyone except the die hard preps that is Then the later nineties hit with minimalism along with the 'Rachel', platform sandals, midriff bearing. Still doesn't really help to define it, but those are elements that stand out to me...

  Reply With Quote
19-10-2005
  13
Iowa Girl Loves Fashion
 
Erin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Omaha, NE
Gender: femme
Posts: 14,665
Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
hi erin...
i don't know how old you are so i don't know if you actually experienced the 80's yourself...
but i have to say that i really disagree that the 80's didn't have anything other than the 'power suit'...
Ahhh, I was simply saying that the other decades had distinct trends, and that was my example.

  Reply With Quote
20-10-2005
  14
V.I.P.
 
MulletProof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 24,710
my 2 cents softgrey: 90's = tired? :p .

it's the only age i've experience myself and i think tired is the word that suits the entire time for me, people would wrap a sweater around their waists, wearing a dress, with rather messy hair... i think that should be considered a style . a little unexpected too maybe?, cause people from say, 70s or 80s would think a little about putting an outfit together and when i look at past 90s photos, it seems quite spontaneous..


i dont know what i'm talking about. i just know my mom and I have very different interpretations of what's modern, she thinks of modern and shirley manson comes to her mind

__________________
Metal teeth of carousels.
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
modernarticle
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:50 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.