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12-05-2013
  226
flaunt the imperfection
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
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i also think it would have been nice to get a stylist in---
oh- like maybe judy blame or melanie ward...

and then mix the clothes up and style them...
rather than head to toe one designer...
maybe not for the whole show...
but at least in the beginning section that was all westwood anyway...
would have been way more authentic in showing real punk style and useful in comparing it to what it has been watered down to by designers...

**totally agree that accessories are the place that punk has most infiltrated the mainstream...
tom binns is a great example...
tom binns ----->fenton----->eddie borgo

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Last edited by softgrey; 12-05-2013 at 11:51 AM.
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12-05-2013
  227
Stitch:the Hand
 
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i have to say that disappoints me to hear that of all the work by HL only a single jacket exists as part of this exhibit.....or is it because helmut destroyed his archive?? i dunno. surely somebody had some of iconic pieces....like the latex coated lace dresses or his spray-painted army fatigue or the gazillions of slashed pieces.

also kind of disappointing they focused only on margiela's plastic dry cleaning bag stuff....certainly there were the moth eaten oversized cardigans,the patchworked silk scarf pieces.....there was also the graffitied tabi boots and the tabi sole shoes he did that were held onto the foot with masking tape.

agree with you,softie,especially on judy blame. he's as punk as you get really.


Last edited by Scott; 12-05-2013 at 02:07 PM.
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13-05-2013
  228
windowshopping
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Softgrey,

Yes, Suzy was right about the videos being a big missed opportunity. There were huge video displays in some of the rooms, and in the entryway, but they were not very engaging, and for me at least, they just wound up as decoration and background noise.
At the entrance was a huge video wall showing images of punks moshing, but it was in slow motion, and the images were almost abstract. I had read about this video before going, and thought it sounded interesting ( this may have been the Nick Knight project ) but the effect was underwhelming I thought. It was flanked by two models in couture outfits, but they weren't really blocking the video in any way. It would have been better the way you pictured it, with the mannequins standing right in front of the screen, bringing the two worlds together.
In the first room with the CBGB toilet diorama, there was a wall of old tv monitors creating a large video of the Ramones playing on stage, but again, it barely registered. If they had put footage of several different bands and stage performances on each of the small screens, it would have made me stop and look more closely. There was no clothing in this room, and the intro on the wall mentioned how in those early days in New York there really wasn't a conscious style to the scene, but surely Debbie Harry still has something from back then that could have been shown, and here in DC they recently had an exhibit about women in rock, that included a pair of Pattie Smith's old boots that were held together with duct tape ( they looked amazing! ) so there's yet another missed opp......anyway!...back to the vids.
In the Westwood room was the only video which really grabbed my eye, and it was just on a small monitor hanging from the ceiling. It was old footage of someone (maybe Malcolm? ) standing outside the shop SEX, in broad daylight wearing a full body rubber gimp suit, then walking right up to, and putting it's face into the camera, which was very creepy and effective. There was also some interesting audio of Westwood and Mclaren taken from old interviews that was playing on a loop throughout the room.
The next two rooms had huge ceiling high video displays, one was a close up black and white shot of Sid, I think, and the other room had some concert footage of maybe the New York Dolls, but not totally sure. Still neither of these were really integrated with the clothing displays in any way, and they just felt like wallpaper.
There may have been another video display in the graffiti themed room, but If so, I honestly can't remember anything about it. That was however where the McQueen graffiti dress was displayed, but it was not shown with the runway footage like they did for the savage beauty show.

I hope that gives you some idea about the video aspects softgrey, sorry I couldn't give you more specific details.
I should mention that I am not usually a very big fan of video art or most short fashion films unless they are totally epic, like the Plato's Atlantis film, or the animated film that Prada did for their fairy tale collection a few years back. So that kind of slow motion minimal style video rarely piques my interest, though someone else might find the videos they used in the show to be really intriguing.

Have you gone to the Met's website? They might have a short video tour of the show. I seem to recall them doing that with the McQueen exhibit, and if so it might show some of the videos in motion.

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14-05-2013
  229
backstage pass
 
Phuel's Avatar
 
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Thanks for that very detailed review Daydreamer70. That sounds just about consistent with what the previews and reviews had disappointedly suggested: a very expensive Forever 21 window display. As I had mentioned before, I'd had preferred the organizers had gone full, unapologetically, unabashedly, proudly high fashion does punk-- rather than lead with the history of punk, complete with those horrid dioramas of the infamous CGBG washroom and SEX shop. I hate dioramas. As softgrey had suggested, huge projections of infamous punk performances with their high fashion creations alongside one another would have created in recapturing some of the excitement and energy of the time, place and people-- and the exhibition. Projections onto the actual garments would have given them a sense of movement, vitality, urgency, life...

Oh well.

LOL sorry softgrey-- I misunderstood you about one of your Yohji dresses!

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14-05-2013
  230
fashion insider
 
Les_Sucettes's Avatar
 
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Everytime i read about this show the only image that comes to my mind is of those 50 year old punks, with their leathered wrinkly faces, that hang by the canal at Camden town wearing their "stereotypical" garb (apparently real punks did not get the no mohawk memo) and that make their money by standing on the street holding sign posts pointing to waxing saloons.
How far is all of this from the Met...no wonder they are unable to capture the essence.


Last edited by Les_Sucettes; 14-05-2013 at 09:14 AM.
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14-05-2013
  231
Stitch:the Hand
 
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yeah everybody has been talking about the CBGB stalls and the consensus from those who who were there is generally that it looks like a pathetic caricature of the real thing. even the scribbles on the walls were laughable.

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14-05-2013
  232
flaunt the imperfection
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daydreamer70 View Post
Softgrey,

Yes, Suzy was right about the videos being a big missed opportunity. There were huge video displays in some of the rooms, and in the entryway, but they were not very engaging, and for me at least, they just wound up as decoration and background noise.
At the entrance was a huge video wall showing images of punks moshing, but it was in slow motion, and the images were almost abstract. I had read about this video before going, and thought it sounded interesting ( this may have been the Nick Knight project ) but the effect was underwhelming I thought. It was flanked by two models in couture outfits, but they weren't really blocking the video in any way. It would have been better the way you pictured it, with the mannequins standing right in front of the screen, bringing the two worlds together.
In the first room with the CBGB toilet diorama, there was a wall of old tv monitors creating a large video of the Ramones playing on stage, but again, it barely registered. If they had put footage of several different bands and stage performances on each of the small screens, it would have made me stop and look more closely. There was no clothing in this room, and the intro on the wall mentioned how in those early days in New York there really wasn't a conscious style to the scene, but surely Debbie Harry still has something from back then that could have been shown, and here in DC they recently had an exhibit about women in rock, that included a pair of Pattie Smith's old boots that were held together with duct tape ( they looked amazing! ) so there's yet another missed opp......anyway!...back to the vids.
In the Westwood room was the only video which really grabbed my eye, and it was just on a small monitor hanging from the ceiling. It was old footage of someone (maybe Malcolm? ) standing outside the shop SEX, in broad daylight wearing a full body rubber gimp suit, then walking right up to, and putting it's face into the camera, which was very creepy and effective. There was also some interesting audio of Westwood and Mclaren taken from old interviews that was playing on a loop throughout the room.
The next two rooms had huge ceiling high video displays, one was a close up black and white shot of Sid, I think, and the other room had some concert footage of maybe the New York Dolls, but not totally sure. Still neither of these were really integrated with the clothing displays in any way, and they just felt like wallpaper.
There may have been another video display in the graffiti themed room, but If so, I honestly can't remember anything about it. That was however where the McQueen graffiti dress was displayed, but it was not shown with the runway footage like they did for the savage beauty show.

I hope that gives you some idea about the video aspects softgrey, sorry I couldn't give you more specific details.
I should mention that I am not usually a very big fan of video art or most short fashion films unless they are totally epic, like the Plato's Atlantis film, or the animated film that Prada did for their fairy tale collection a few years back. So that kind of slow motion minimal style video rarely piques my interest, though someone else might find the videos they used in the show to be really intriguing.

Have you gone to the Met's website? They might have a short video tour of the show. I seem to recall them doing that with the McQueen exhibit, and if so it might show some of the videos in motion.
thanks again for the feedback...
haven't seen anything on the website but maybe they will update...
in any case, i'm sure to be going eventually so i'll see it for myself...


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15-05-2013
  233
front row
 
EnModeArtiste's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
i have to say that disappoints me to hear that of all the work by HL only a single jacket exists as part of this exhibit.....or is it because helmut destroyed his archive?? i dunno. surely somebody had some of iconic pieces....like the latex coated lace dresses or his spray-painted army fatigue or the gazillions of slashed pieces.

also kind of disappointing they focused only on margiela's plastic dry cleaning bag stuff....certainly there were the moth eaten oversized cardigans,the patchworked silk scarf pieces.....there was also the graffitied tabi boots and the tabi sole shoes he did that were held onto the foot with masking tape.

agree with you,softie,especially on judy blame. he's as punk as you get really.
He did destroy a lot of his archive unfortunately In the "FASHION ! : anti fashon" documentary, he explains that he created art pieces from his old collection to show his hate for fashion or something like that

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15-05-2013
  234
backstage pass
 
Phuel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
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^^^ He hates fashion? I can understand hating the system if you're anywhere near intelligent-- just looking at the CFDA Fashion Award nominees is enough to despair at the constant and blatant favoritism and political support of the same, usual suspects.

Helmut is my all-time fav fashion designer. I still wear his pieces. I have no intention of being precious preserving them-- they're just clothing, and meant to be worn until they've outlived their use. It's a shame he's become so boringly pretentious with his art-- unlike his fashion design, which spoke for itself and stood out so strongly without being contrived. His art reminds me of Joseph Beuys and Louise Bourgeois-- so nothing outstanding in terms of originality. It's horrible he destroyed his amazing fashion archive to create his bland art, but whatever: It's his choice and just fashion. No tears shed here.

Anyway, it is terrible they've excluded any of Gaultier's amazing contributions-- must be a political decision. As amazing as the McQueen dress worn by Shalom Harlow that was spray-painted by a robotic arm iwas in its performance, it's anything but "punk"...

I think I loathe this exhibition.

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15-05-2013
  235
V.I.P.
 
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I'm pretty sure he hates the system, not fashion per se.

I take issues with people like myself who never comprehended this exhibit to begin with as being labeled neo hippie elitists. That's akin to mixing peanut butter with caviar and calling anyone who dislikes it a food snob.

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22-05-2013
  236
rising star
 
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I have yet to see the exhibit and I can't say I'm as knowledgeable about punk as most of you are, but I received the book for the exhibit in the mail the other day and I enjoyed flipping through it. There are interviews in the front and the rest of the book is split into categories with real photographs, runway shots and editorial shots to illustrate the category.

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25-05-2013
  237
Some Like It Hot
 
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