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17-01-2011
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love the outerwear (even tho most would be too overwhelming for me, so i'd need to get shorter versions), but that coat with the HUGE collar is motherfcuking awesome.

hate the pants tho and a few of the blazers look like the fit is all wrong.

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17-01-2011
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Pricciao's Avatar
 
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are you kidding me? this is the worst collection I've seen from McQueen, it's so plain and uninspired.

Saying it officially, Sarah Burton you have to increase your creativity!
God, I can't imagine next season what she will do to ruin this brand.

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17-01-2011
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this is better than I had expected. I am not too familiar with McQueen's menswear but now it seems to be on my radar like never before.

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17-01-2011
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Quote:
The aesthetic allure of a man in uniform has been a fashion staple for centuries rather than mere seasons. Certainly, it was something Lee Alexander McQueen turned to time and again - for both his men's and women's collections. It made sense, therefore for new Creative Director Sarah Burton to continue in that grand tradition.

Grand was certainly the word for this collection, from the baroque palazzo to the sweeping lines of the opening coat, an astrakhan-collared floor-length coat in cardinal red. That captured some of the monumental drama McQueen was all about - although that was confined to the clothing alone in the small salon-style show held in an intimate baroque palazzo. That was intended as a bridge, perhaps, between last season's presentation and the fire and brimstone McQueen histrionics of past, and indeed it felt as if this whole collection was walking a tightrope between old and new.

Sometimes, it wobbled. The first great coat lived up to its name in both respects, with enormous lapels and a dashing sweep of skirt cut with a cavalier swagger. The same shapes cropped up later, the face-framing revers in leather or sheepskin attached to neat little pea-coats or even layered under the lapels of pinstripe suits. The upturned collar on one version revealed an elaborately embroidered crest, echoed in elaborate insignia printed across silk bombers and a couple of monumental capes looped up at the back and sides and topped with militia caps.

But what was there of substance next to that style? Next to the cut of those jibs, neat little checked blazers, sensible navy pinstripes and a few half-mast trousers felt slightly anaemic. They will obviously be the commercial core of the collection - but, easy as it was to imagine them hanging in the shops come September, it's equally easy to envisage them cluttering sales racks next January. The rare moments when the drama fused with actual dress were the best: vests bordered with bands of contrasting colour like imperial insignia, and a mid-calf length coat with a waistcoat slung over, flapped, strapped and buttoned to within an inch of its life. Complicated, intricate and no doubt neigh-on impossible to manufacture. Let's hope they find a way.

Report by Alex Fury 16 minutes ago.
showstudio

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17-01-2011
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Hideoas...who is the designer?

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17-01-2011
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^^ Sarah Burton

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17-01-2011
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i love it. finally, an inspiring collection!

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17-01-2011
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I like some of the suits but I feel nothing when I look at the rest of this collection.

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17-01-2011
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Really good, the jackets are amazing!

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17-01-2011
  25
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It's really a mishmash of everything i don't feel like there is any cohesion in any of her collections while mcQueen always had one strong thread throughout his shows.
I mean there is nothing easier than to take ideas from military attire for men cause that's pretty much all there is to menswear. At least give a clear vision of what you're trying to portray sans baroque background to make a point.

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17-01-2011
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I like it.
There are some amazing pieces here.

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17-01-2011
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What is it... there is just something very slightly off about most of the pieces in this collection, there isn't that absolute anal pristine finish that McQueen always had.
Some of the tailoring is good, I see Lee in that coat-hanger shoulder grey plaid suit, but more Vivienne Westwood in the asymmetry of several of the pieces.
I feel that this is quite a patchwork of ideas, for instance, I found the inclusion of a black velvet jacket completely random, as are the slits in the sleeveheads in only two of the jackets. I never really imagined to see turn-ups next to ribbed tracksuit bottoms at McQueen either.
Besides the coat-hanger suit, I enjoy this piece (if that is a single piece) and the way its lines trick the eye into thinking it's a closer fit than it actually is.
Over all, the only inspiration points were current trends and past trends (by McQueen). Somewhat disappointing.

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17-01-2011
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One of the worse collections I've seen so far this week.

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17-01-2011
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The first few pics of the policeman silhouette with the striking red accents had me interested, but then it quickly degenerated into typical random designer pieces with, as Crying Diamonds sharply noted "something very slightly off about most of the pieces in this collection".

To be fair, McQueen's menswear were always a hit-and-miss with me-- with more misses than hits, so to be fair, I don't think it's as if his menswear collections were always strong and distinctive in design like his womenswear, and Sarah's spoiled the signature now that she's at the helm.

I'd definitely wear some of the pieces if they were presents, but I wouldn't pay for them.

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17-01-2011
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i feel the same way crying diamonds feels but I think that comes with the territory of transitioning from mcqueen to burton...

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