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03-10-2012
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Menace's Avatar
 
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"Alexander McQueen is dead and so is the label" = I kinda like it!

"Alexander McQueen needs to live on as an artistic label" = What is she doing? Why so repetitive?

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03-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
Again, a parade of bustiered costume hideousness...
It really is. She needs to learn that McQueen did actually design clothes that could possibly be deemed wearable at something apart from the Costume Institute Gala.. and might have been varied from season to season.. and not contain ruffles..
I think McQueen would be spinning in his grave looking at those final dresses.

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04-10-2012
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Hm...I was on the verge of saying Sarah had finally produced a respectable collection...but having looked at the hqs I can`t...

1) The prints are just NOT McQueen (to banal & "cute")
2) Those yellow dresses are
3) The thigh-high boots are SO ripped off Versace F/W 12

*SIGH*

Well, at least she is getting closer to producing something that looks like Alexander McQueen...maybe she`ll get it right next season.

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04-10-2012
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Ok I'm doing an volte face on part at least of this.

The idea of the bees floating out from natures honeycomb mesh to a more industrial black mesh is a trooper. And the details and conceptual play of those shoes dripping with honey and bees. Well they do have jawdrop.

And thematically with the nature/animal thing that harks back to the animalistic metamorphosis/ chimera thing in Plato's Atlantis. (I discovered, I think that Lee was into neoplatonism - at least he might have gone there at that moment in time)

I do still somewhat problematise the toiletroll holder dresses. And those Vauderville/CanCan frou frous.But I suppose now I should look more closely at those too. I was already digging the two ball gowns that cutaway to mesh bodice. In terms of dialogue with sweetness - well, honey, nature's sweetner.But watch the sting


Last edited by Tentacl Ventricl; 04-10-2012 at 02:31 AM.
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04-10-2012
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new designer for the house? as someone stated the last great collection was fall 2010 and now everything is just 'trying hard to be as cool as McQueen was'. unfortunately, this is not working, and there is a need for new, this collection prove it!

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05-10-2012
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Personally, I don't get all the nay-saying. I love the concept of bees, beekeepers, and flowers and how that played out onto the clothes. The theatricality is there, and the details up-close are amazing.

It's very Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. I think too many people have unrealistic expectations that Sarah Burton will be a design clone of McQueen. That's an impossible feat. Burton, IMO, deserves acknowledgement for continuing the McQueen brand while injecting it with her own design aesthetic.

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05-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
Ok I'm doing an volte face on part at least of this.

The idea of the bees floating out from natures honeycomb mesh to a more industrial black mesh is a trooper. And the details and conceptual play of those shoes dripping with honey and bees. Well they do have jawdrop.

And thematically with the nature/animal thing that harks back to the animalistic metamorphosis/ chimera thing in Plato's Atlantis. (I discovered, I think that Lee was into neoplatonism - at least he might have gone there at that moment in time)

I do still somewhat problematise the toiletroll holder dresses. And those Vauderville/CanCan frou frous.But I suppose now I should look more closely at those too. I was already digging the two ball gowns that cutaway to mesh bodice. In terms of dialogue with sweetness - well, honey, nature's sweetner.But watch the sting
Good! I agree that it's stunning overall to show the phases and make everything, um, stick. And it works, too, imho. I like the final dresses within the concept of the collection; it's the building up to those dramatic blooms that makes them work.

It's like some records - you can't just buy one song on iTunes; you have to listen to the whole record, both sides. To me, those final dresses complete this collection - you have bees? You gotta have flowers, right?

I too was put in mind of McQueens' Atlantis collection when I saw this.

And I agree, too, with eternitygoddess - people need to stop expecting Burton to be Mcqueen. She can't be. She's a different human being with different ideas and a different mind. And no doubt she thinks of him often, having worked alongside him for years. I'll bet he couldn't've imagined a better cohort to carry on his spirit. I for one support her efforts - as her own.

Seriously - people are so unrealistic. They criticize Slimane for "rehashing" old YSL, but they freak out because Galliano doesn't have bias cuts and Burton because this isn't "like" McQueen. It's bizarre. We should judge the collections based on their own merit. And for people to say "McQueen is really dead" - well, again, how strange. Of course he is! Sad though it is, he's gone. Burton isn't. You cannot expect her to be just like him; it's impossible. If you want human clones, then that's another matter. But for now, we have individual human beings with different DNA. Hence different designs. It's simple common sense.

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05-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Not Plain Jane View Post
Good! I agree that it's stunning overall to show the phases and make everything, um, stick. And it works, too, imho. I like the final dresses within the concept of the collection; it's the building up to those dramatic blooms that makes them work.

It's like some records - you can't just buy one song on iTunes; you have to listen to the whole record, both sides. To me, those final dresses complete this collection - you have bees? You gotta have flowers, right?

I too was put in mind of McQueens' Atlantis collection when I saw this.

And I agree, too, with eternitygoddess - people need to stop expecting Burton to be Mcqueen. She can't be. She's a different human being with different ideas and a different mind. And no doubt she thinks of him often, having worked alongside him for years. I'll bet he couldn't've imagined a better cohort to carry on his spirit. I for one support her efforts - as her own.

Seriously - people are so unrealistic. They criticize Slimane for "rehashing" old YSL, but they freak out because Galliano doesn't have bias cuts and Burton because this isn't "like" McQueen. It's bizarre. We should judge the collections based on their own merit. And for people to say "McQueen is really dead" - well, again, how strange. Of course he is! Sad though it is, he's gone. Burton isn't. You cannot expect her to be just like him; it's impossible. If you want human clones, then that's another matter. But for now, we have individual human beings with different DNA. Hence different designs. It's simple common sense.
:c lap:
fantastic bright breezy post (sshhh don't tell anyone :p I am in love with your aura NPJ )

I agree with much of what you've written and yes, bees need flowers (though doesn't the Queen lay back in the honeycomb while the worker boys gather the pollen? ) The thematic connection you've alluded to allows us to revisit those tolietroll froumassiv princess dresses. But my issue I think is not so much where might one wear one (red carpet perhaps?) so much as their weightiness to the eye, their lack of fluid movement. As you'll be sensing/reading perhaps, I'm finding new ways to ''sweetness'' but I supppose I still find the whole fairy tale princess thing not only a tad too historic costume theatrical, it's moreso that it's cloying. Heavy, antiquated.

I will do you a deal and revisit if you revisit the Calvin Klein show video and look within the structure of the oh so Dior shapes, the quietitude of a Zenlike palette, to the dripping sensuality within - at the level of fabrication trompe d'oeil and the story of details, weight and length. I believe the soundtrack to be Carsten Nicolai. It's anyway spiritual minimal techno on the trance.

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05-10-2012
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Ahhhh Sarah...I'm becoming less and less of a fan. Out of all of these there are two that I can see myself buying, and that's the pale yellow and crimson dresses with the peekaboo bustier.

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05-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crying Diamonds View Post
It really is. She needs to learn that McQueen did actually design clothes that could possibly be deemed wearable at something apart from the Costume Institute Gala.. and might have been varied from season to season.. and not contain ruffles..
I think McQueen would be spinning in his grave looking at those final dresses.
Agreed! Although I did not like McQueen's last few collections, I think he would have made MUCH more hay with the concept of the Bees, the hives, honeycomb, etc. I dig the theme, but McQueen will probably be looking at the bees & hives rather than the flowers, at the way the bees swarm and flock to beekeepers, their buzz, anatomy, etc...there's a lot of potential for a more subversive interpretation, the way he did Asylum or Chess. It won't be at the level of honeycomb prints and flowers. I do think this is much better than her previous collections because she's had to use more sober colours and fabrics, but she's unable to escape her fondness for Victorian bustiers, frills, tight bodice, big ballgown skirts, cage hoops, which gets truly irritating in the Marchesa sort of way.

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05-10-2012
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I love this collection and I like how the faces aren't shown.

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07-10-2012
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If there is a McQueen imitation contest,SB definitely could be the winner.Her designs are McQueenish,but they're no McQueen.Something quintessential and spiritual missing here.Each McQueen show by Lee himself was a stage art,was deadly romantic and soul-searching.And that's where SB lacks—the wow factor.

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07-10-2012
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^ I agree completely. McQueen's shows were done to leave you questioning then lead you to an awe enlightenment. There was something beautifully unifying about them, and you were welcomed into that circle. It was a spectacle, but that wasn't all it was.

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08-10-2012
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I love the shoes.

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09-10-2012
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I think the problem I have with her is that there are so many identical looks in a show, it lacks range. McQueen always put so many looks in a show, they were also very different from each other. She puts 7 suits that all look the same, a few of the same-ish corset looks, and then the same ballgown in 3-4 colors. CHANGE IT UP PLEASE.

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