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02-10-2017
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jeanclaude's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc10 View Post
I'm sorry but this is really not true. I mean if she had changed the name, the logo, had done countless changes and had gone on a completely different aesthetic direction like a lot of designers have done when they take charge of a brand I would understand, but to me Sarah has been absolutely respectful of Lee since she began here. This is not her best collection (also not her wost), but I much rather having her doing respectful, beautifully well crafted clothes than someone pretentious thinking they can follow up to McQueen's genius, which in my opinion no one in this lifetime will be able to.
She just makes pretty dresses. McQueen didn´t like pretty. So I cannot see how she is being respectful when he hated pretty dresses...and that´s all she is making.
She is just making what she likes.

He was dark, edgy, macabre, avant-garde...and although he is irreplaceable, Sarah doesn´t even try to keep on with his vocabulary (and much less adding new elements to it).

So no, she is not even trying.


Last edited by jeanclaude; 02-10-2017 at 10:33 PM.
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02-10-2017
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Doesn't look like McQueen at all. A couple of the jackets and knit pieces are nice enough, but not McQueen.

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02-10-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeanclaude View Post
She just makes pretty dresses. McQueen didn´t like pretty. So I cannot see how she is being respectful when he hated pretty dresses...and that´s all she is making.
She is just making what she likes.

He was dark, edgy, macabre, avant-garde...and although he is irreplaceable, Sarah doesn´t even try to keep on with his vocabulary (and much less adding new elements to it).

So no, she is not even trying.
Well she's the designer, so of course she's doing what she likes. And McQueen wasn't always dark, tortured and avant-garde, a huge part of of his career, and some of the most memorable for me, was his extremely romantic, feminine and yes, pretty side. That's the side Sarah has tapped into in her collections, so it's not foreign at all to his vocabulary. She doesn't have his edge and depth, absolutely, but her work to me is very far from disrespectful.

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02-10-2017
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Sarah Burton is insufferable. This kind of fashion is just totally depressing and feels like an absolute waste. She's a decorator. McQueen was an architect. Not only that, her taste level is so pedestrian. I've said it before in her McQueen threads here...her concept to inject trademark Lee "darkness" into her pretty, pretty princess romance is always to just pair her merengue dresses with a chunky black leather boot or to throw in a black leather jacket abruptly halfway through the collection. It's so incongruous and so unsophisticated. McQueen was so complex. This is as surface level as it gets.

Plus she seems to totally misunderstand the whole of McQueen...she seems to think it's all about "fantasy"...but I'd argue McQueen's work was almost entirely about "reality."


Last edited by dior_couture1245; 03-10-2017 at 12:00 AM.
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03-10-2017
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It's like she just latched on to the one element of McQueen's past design - medieval, caged, tortured - and just copies it from season to season. McQueen had way more range than that.

However, I do think these clothes stand on their own. They're a lot more interesting and prettier than some of the other stuff coming down the runways this season.

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03-10-2017
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I feel as if McQueen has a case of the 'Balmain Syndrome'- showing the same thing every season with a little colour variety.

This is so vapid and inspiring that it hurts. It's so sad that this has happened to McQueen.

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03-10-2017
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I don't have much to add to the "boring, repetitive" critique because I agree with it all. I did want to point out how unflattering some of this is though. For example, the red and pink dresses that outline the breasts make the models look extremely busty and uncomfortable and the tailoring on Micu and Brannon gives them Frankenstein's monster shoulders in the worst possible way. For comparison, Lee used to make molded dresses (Fall '99, Spring '05) and exaggerated suits which in theory are too tricky to work, and yet they looked like they were meant to happen and you wouldn't want it any other way.

Not comparing Sarah to Lee, clearly - he was one and only and there will never be another McQueen. But I just felt like pointing out how sad it makes me to see that most of today's designers, including Sarah, are satisfied with this mediocrity they send down the runway and don't seem to chase the unattainable - which, in my opinion, is the only way to create that memorable something. It's like there is no passion to it, and it shows in the smallest, most banal things like the wrong shoulder pad or an off fit.

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03-10-2017
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Honestly, I think this is one of her best collections to date. It's so so beautiful and dreamy as always, they all look like works of art. I really love the tailoring here as well. Absolutely amazing makeup and hair, it gives what is a very feminine collection a bit of a sinister undertone.

Yes, this might not be something that Lee would have done but I think Sara has carved a wonderful style and identity for herself at McQueen.

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03-10-2017
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I disliked her work since the get go, to say the least.
She completely killed the spirit of the house - she is SO safe and that is the last thing McQueen was. Pretty ruffles and exquisite detail is not it. McQueen was beautiful and macabre and provocative, and always but always had a statement. She never had a statement or anything to say. Time to let her go.

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03-10-2017
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What? Giles Deacon still don't have the McQueen job? So, i'm not interested... NEXT!

Another annoying collection from an annoying creative director. She should just put her commercial collections on the runway because all that messy stuff doesn't add anything to the fashion conversation. i'm sure she thinks that she is pushing fashion forward but she doesn't actually.

Nobody need this, nobody wants this. This is irrelevant as she doesn't have any idea of the woman she is creating this clothes for. That's the missing link!

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03-10-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc10 View Post
Well she's the designer, so of course she's doing what she likes. And McQueen wasn't always dark, tortured and avant-garde, a huge part of of his career, and some of the most memorable for me, was his extremely romantic, feminine and yes, pretty side. That's the side Sarah has tapped into in her collections, so it's not foreign at all to his vocabulary. She doesn't have his edge and depth, absolutely, but her work to me is very far from disrespectful.
The designer can make what she likes when her name is on the tags...but don´t forget that´s Alexander name on the tags.

And even when Alexander turned romantic and femenine it wasn´t pretty for the sake of being pretty. It was dramatic and somehow tortured. It was eerie beauty.

I think Sarah is the same case of Bill Gaytten: right hands of very talented designers who were put on charge of their respective brands just because they were the right hands of those designers.
But management forgot that working with a talent designer doesn´t make you talented as well...

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03-10-2017
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Why does she always have the chunky shoes in her collections?

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06-10-2017
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the final few dresses with the deconstructed corsets and the 3-d floral embroideries are just beautiful. how i'd love to see these on the red carpet!

as for the rest, she's brilliant with ruffles but she needs to remember the structure and tailoring that so many devotees of this brand adored. bring back the tighter classic cut and go from there. leave the ruffle for a while okay?

thanks

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