In his last fall collection, Joseph Altuzarra showed black wool suits trimmed out in glossy black goat hair and dresses with lacing. At once sensual and tough, the clothes made a statement. Retailers were impressed with Mr. Altuzarraís sophistication. But there is another aspect of his talent that has shown itself before ó a desire to be a little less constructed and formal. On Saturday night, at Milk Studios, Mr. Altuzarra played with that style for his loosest, most commercial collection to date. It wasnít his most exciting, but it may relate easily to how young women like to dress. And it may supply Mr. Altuzarra with working capital for future collections.
His main idea was an over-scaled parka, usually with thick fur trim, over a bias-cut silk slip dress in a muddy argyle print. There were also almost drab-looking coats in a rough olive- or mulberry-colored wool. Mr. Altuzarra took classic argyle and plaid patterns and manipulated them, so that the silk prints often had a crinkled effect. The printing technique virtually altered their original appearance, although there remained a hint of something English and rural.
Most of the dresses were just below the knee, and there were other bias-cut styles in solid silk with wide straps and gathers at the side. You could imagine layering the dresses with a T-shirt or a chunky cardigan ó in fact, Mr. Altuzarra showed more knits this season.
Except for the nylon parkas, which included one in a poncho style with a quilted red satin lining, the coats were made in English wools. There were also slouchy wool trousers and slim khaki skirts, which Mr. Altuzarra showed with print tops and usually a chunky jacket. The collection had more separates than in the past, more ways of mixing things, and it transparently owed something to the grunge style of Kate Moss in her younger, Johnny Depp years. That may be a problem ó as a style, itís not exactly new. But itís certainly accessible to a lot of people. And for Mr. Altuzarra, seeing his fashion on the street has to be a goal.
It strikes as one of those collections that only wannabe kids would wear to prove how "daring" they look. It's not a flattering collection, most of these pieces would be difficult to wear. And those thigh high slits are pelvis-high!
I feel like he is still finding himself. There is no consistency between collections. Wang + Rodarte x Gap = Altuzarra
Can't disagree with that.
With that being said there is something about this collection that I appreciate. It feels more paired down and less designed than a lot of what he's done so far, especially compared to last season's messy outing. This doesn't seem as intent on being interesting for the sake of it and it's not trying to be cutting edge, thank god. Still, some consistency would be nice after five seasons.
You need to move fashion forward when there's a reason to move fashion forward - Tom Ford
Agree masquerade: you put it well. It seems like there are too many ideas going on here. My favorite looks are actually the lower key ones, like this tweed topper - very nice. Maybe his strongest aesthetic is a richer, more classic one, and he should drop the effort to be edgy like Wang. His argyles really have potential too, and there's another heritage look.
It's an improvement from the last season. I still like this guy's work. I think he has something and as soon as he finds "it", he's going to wow us all. Maybe he should go back in France for inspiration.
i really did love his early collections, but this is just bland. there is no consistency, this collection hardly resembles anything he did early on. he should have sticked to making beautiful, interesting dresses like no one else does them, that would have been great
__________________ "he waited for other people to understand what he was doing, instead of doing what they wanted. Balenciaga never compromised."
I agree that his low key looks are the only one that worked.
I also agree with Squizree that these aren't really wearable at all - I totally disagree with the reviewer above who suggests this is how women dress. Seriously - please no more straps. They were done to death about 5 years ago, and they just look tacky. Altuzarra had such beautiful collections about 1.5 years ago - what happened? There used to be refinement to his clothes. This just a bad copy of Alexander Wang.
while miles better than his last collection with those crazy python cups, i still feel that he's a bit too un-focused in his mining of the greatest hits of the nineties in search of his own vision for how women should dress today. some of the best moments of the collection came in those great asymmetric dress and deconstructed pieces, but some of it felt too derivative (those slip dress and boot ensembles recalled the heyday of galliano for dior, for example) for a designer as talented as joseph altuzarra.
everything is never quite enough.