How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
13-02-2011
  16
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,700



nymag

  Reply With Quote
 
13-02-2011
  17
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,700




nymag

- FIN -

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  18
God Save McQueen
 
masquerade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: lost angeles
Gender: femme
Posts: 8,140
I feel like he is still finding himself. There is no consistency between collections. Wang + Rodarte x Gap = Altuzarra

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  19
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,700
Quote:
Altuzarra: Street Value
By CATHY HORYN

In his last fall collection, Joseph Altuzarra showed black wool suits trimmed out in glossy black goat hair and dresses with lacing. At once sensual and tough, the clothes made a statement. Retailers were impressed with Mr. Altuzarraís sophistication. But there is another aspect of his talent that has shown itself before ó a desire to be a little less constructed and formal. On Saturday night, at Milk Studios, Mr. Altuzarra played with that style for his loosest, most commercial collection to date. It wasnít his most exciting, but it may relate easily to how young women like to dress. And it may supply Mr. Altuzarra with working capital for future collections.

His main idea was an over-scaled parka, usually with thick fur trim, over a bias-cut silk slip dress in a muddy argyle print. There were also almost drab-looking coats in a rough olive- or mulberry-colored wool. Mr. Altuzarra took classic argyle and plaid patterns and manipulated them, so that the silk prints often had a crinkled effect. The printing technique virtually altered their original appearance, although there remained a hint of something English and rural.

Most of the dresses were just below the knee, and there were other bias-cut styles in solid silk with wide straps and gathers at the side. You could imagine layering the dresses with a T-shirt or a chunky cardigan ó in fact, Mr. Altuzarra showed more knits this season.

Except for the nylon parkas, which included one in a poncho style with a quilted red satin lining, the coats were made in English wools. There were also slouchy wool trousers and slim khaki skirts, which Mr. Altuzarra showed with print tops and usually a chunky jacket. The collection had more separates than in the past, more ways of mixing things, and it transparently owed something to the grunge style of Kate Moss in her younger, Johnny Depp years. That may be a problem ó as a style, itís not exactly new. But itís certainly accessible to a lot of people. And for Mr. Altuzarra, seeing his fashion on the street has to be a goal.
nytimes

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  20
Looking Up
 
Squizree's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
Gender: homme
Posts: 18,545
It strikes as one of those collections that only wannabe kids would wear to prove how "daring" they look. It's not a flattering collection, most of these pieces would be difficult to wear. And those thigh high slits are pelvis-high!

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  21
fashion insider
 
educo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NYC MUTHA F*CKA!!!
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,478
Quote:
Originally Posted by masquerade View Post
I feel like he is still finding himself. There is no consistency between collections. Wang + Rodarte x Gap = Altuzarra

I couldn't have said it better myself.

__________________
BLOG

TWITTER:
  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  22
barcode
 
Spike413's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: New York
Gender: homme
Posts: 14,404
Quote:
Originally Posted by masquerade View Post
I feel like he is still finding himself. There is no consistency between collections. Wang + Rodarte x Gap = Altuzarra
Can't disagree with that.

With that being said there is something about this collection that I appreciate. It feels more paired down and less designed than a lot of what he's done so far, especially compared to last season's messy outing. This doesn't seem as intent on being interesting for the sake of it and it's not trying to be cutting edge, thank god. Still, some consistency would be nice after five seasons.

__________________
You need to move fashion forward when there's a reason to move fashion forward - Tom Ford

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  23
V.I.P.
 
Not Plain Jane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Canada
Gender: femme
Posts: 10,848
Agree masquerade: you put it well. It seems like there are too many ideas going on here. My favorite looks are actually the lower key ones, like this tweed topper - very nice. Maybe his strongest aesthetic is a richer, more classic one, and he should drop the effort to be edgy like Wang. His argyles really have potential too, and there's another heritage look.



source for image: copied from above / nymag

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  24
V.I.P.
 
FakeFlower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Germany
Gender: femme
Posts: 4,566
I really like this all together aside from those christmas tree dresses at the end...
There's way too much going on in some outfits though :/

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  25
Wanderlust
 
Salvatore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Paris
Gender: homme
Posts: 6,356
It's an improvement from the last season. I still like this guy's work. I think he has something and as soon as he finds "it", he's going to wow us all. Maybe he should go back in France for inspiration.

__________________
sounds like "dirty European aristocracy".....

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  26
V.I.P.
 
liberty33r1b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Manchester, UK
Gender: femme
Posts: 23,105
i really did love his early collections, but this is just bland. there is no consistency, this collection hardly resembles anything he did early on. he should have sticked to making beautiful, interesting dresses like no one else does them, that would have been great

__________________
"he waited for other people to understand what he was doing, instead of doing what they wanted.
Balenciaga never compromised."
  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  27
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Gender: femme
Posts: 9,569
its interesting

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2011
  28
Meg
inspired contemplation
 
Meg's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: London by way of North America
Gender: femme
Posts: 17,064
I agree that his low key looks are the only one that worked.

I also agree with Squizree that these aren't really wearable at all - I totally disagree with the reviewer above who suggests this is how women dress. Seriously - please no more straps. They were done to death about 5 years ago, and they just look tacky. Altuzarra had such beautiful collections about 1.5 years ago - what happened? There used to be refinement to his clothes. This just a bad copy of Alexander Wang.

  Reply With Quote
14-02-2011
  29
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
mikeijames's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: closer than you think.
Gender: homme
Posts: 5,900
while miles better than his last collection with those crazy python cups, i still feel that he's a bit too un-focused in his mining of the greatest hits of the nineties in search of his own vision for how women should dress today. some of the best moments of the collection came in those great asymmetric dress and deconstructed pieces, but some of it felt too derivative (those slip dress and boot ensembles recalled the heyday of galliano for dior, for example) for a designer as talented as joseph altuzarra.

__________________
everything is never quite enough.
  Reply With Quote
17-02-2011
  30
girl who fell to earth
 
ChrissyM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Boston
Gender: femme
Posts: 18,637
comments from this thread were featured in tFS's NYFW coverage of the hits and misses of the day: http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway...y-3-forum-buzz

check it out to see if your review was featured!

  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
1112, altuzarra, f or w, york
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:51 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.