How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
03-10-2012
  1
windowshopping
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Gender: femme
Posts: 35
Ann-Sofie Back Atelje S/S 2013 Paris














credit: style.com

  Reply With Quote
 
03-10-2012
  2
V.I.P.
 
MulletProof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 24,715
Wow.. it's so.. sharp for Ann-Sofie. I'm missing a bit of the rawness/wild side of her work.. the kind that almost made you feel uncomfortable. This isn't bad by any means, the jackets and military touches look amazing.. it just looks ready to sell in a bit of an obvious way.

__________________
Metal teeth of carousels.
  Reply With Quote
03-10-2012
  3
Stitch:the Hand
 
Scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Among the trees
Gender: homme
Posts: 12,885
it's definitely very tough for ann-sofie....but at the same time like you said,it shows of a lot of her technical attributes very obviously. it carries on that sort of uniform theme she did last season. but i actually prefer last season's. it was just a bit more complex.

you know,since she's started this atelje line she's re-configured her original aesthetic into her BACK line. she did a presentation in sweden a few weeks ago for that one. i'll see if she got that one posted on her site yet.

  Reply With Quote
03-10-2012
  4
V.I.P.
 
Not Plain Jane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Canada
Gender: femme
Posts: 10,590
I like the literal subversions, like those glasses, and having pockets nearly at the ankles instead of the waist. Fun to look at this.

__________________
Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
  Reply With Quote
03-10-2012
  5
backstage pass
 
Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: london
Gender: homme
Posts: 514
I do love Ann-Sofie's approach to design. And somehow she kinda seems to be ahead of the curve. See those gathered tops/smocks we've seen at Prada, RickOwens, MiuMiu - Ann-Sofie's SS11 had those gathers albeit in a different guise -as the lips of functionless (save for peekaboo) garmentiary apertures on the round.

Anyway, this collection is rather short (a point Maya Singer at Style makes too much of) but it bangs loads of existant/upcoming trends = the gathered 'smock' neck/hemlines; highblackliquidshine; military; utility cargoish envelope pockets; geishas; knots; all-things-japonisme;

Apparently the inspiration this time up is 'violent sports'; boys and their, not toys, but wars. (Same thing though really - see Lacan, Deleuze.)

The stripe - Americana? Running brand text through it - Irony?

Ann-Sofie, like Miuccia is the thinking fashionista's goto. But she remains massively under the radar. Relative to her talent. Fashion marketing is a cruel game without much justice oftentimes it seems. Observe the percentage of posts/views this thread will stumble to compared with those behemoth hypedramamachines @ Dior and @ (Y)SL.

(freeflow and strictly off point but please permit - just realised taking the Y out of YSL to Just SL. SLimane. Slimey Man. He knows not Y) aCTUALLY not off point as ASBA = anti man - well that bit of man that does violentsports/violence. Is PR a violent sport? In the hands of some it sure seems it can be.

  Reply With Quote
04-10-2012
  6
Stitch:the Hand
 
Scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Among the trees
Gender: homme
Posts: 12,885
to be honest,i think ann-sofie prefers it this way. she's always maintained her ambivalence toward fashion and mainly the fashion system. she's really one of the last remaining truly anti-fashion createurs. when others from her generation have either changed their approach or have gone away,her work much like that of boudicca designers zowie and brian has largely remained uninfluenced and uncompromised by the pressures of fashion of today.

  Reply With Quote
04-10-2012
  7
backstage pass
 
Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: london
Gender: homme
Posts: 514
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
to be honest,i think ann-sofie prefers it this way. she's always maintained her ambivalence toward fashion and mainly the fashion system. she's really one of the last remaining truly anti-fashion createurs. when others from her generation have either changed their approach or have gone away,her work much like that of boudicca designers zowie and brian has largely remained uninfluenced and uncompromised by the pressures of fashion of today.
I love all your posts Scott - an education and a pleasure. And I agree. But what I dared to say about pulling trends - I know - arrrgghh - don;t kill the anti-fashion goose by wrapping it trendsaying - but it is kinda true. It's a departure. But she's in dialogue. And I think she does it well. It's a deconstructive play with trends. She is known for a bit of irony moreso perhaps with earlier work before say 2011. But 'porn' 'god' 'violence' - the recent themes themselves are ironic. In a way.Though also eanest. It's that same thing Prada does with encountering elements she finds disquieting. In a strong sense a trend is a violence? Against free expression. Which also a tribe can be

  Reply With Quote
04-10-2012
  8
Stitch:the Hand
 
Scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Among the trees
Gender: homme
Posts: 12,885
even further than that,personally,i've always felt ann-sofie was more the female equivalent of margiela. the real margiela,that is. when i think back to his doll clothes,garment bag and his wonderful dress-form ticking days,i see a lot of that kind of irony and play with unconventional ideas in ann-sofie too.

  Reply With Quote
04-10-2012
  9
backstage pass
 
Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: london
Gender: homme
Posts: 514
So perhaps we're agreed Scott - through her explorations and play with a twisted back in on itself irony (which she could be said to share with Prada (methodologically), she arrives aesthetically (and on other bases) closer to Margiela? I want to say she shares his deconstructed minimalism. I like both on the fade, when they do quietitude of palette if I'm honest. And when they're soft boxy and drape. This was harder from Ann Sofie but I allow her that - she's exploring hard because it doesn't sit with her. The clasping the bullet, the brandtext - Irony.

  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
2013, annsofie, atelje, paris, s or s
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:18 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.