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25-09-2012
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Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIs View Post
I liked his last season's collection and it's definitely not nearly as good this time around. Most of the looks seem sloppy and messy. The construction seems lacking.
What you're seeing as 'sloppy/messy', on one hand is just your eye being straight, on the other it's just the new slouch in his expression. Call it the Alt slouch if you will. It's the ease that takes his smarter sexy position of previous work into a new edge. That the dresses are cut-draped with more 'away from the body' louche swing (as moved Versace this season) doesn't mean the pieces are poorly constructed! I will bet you they are not. You may be mistaking a production point for slouch and ease in how the clothes are to speak on the wearer? The truth is, I suspect, that you haven't, and can't, actually see anything about the technical proficiencies from the photos.

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25-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
What you're seeing as 'sloppy/messy', on one hand is just your eye being straight, on the other it's just the new slouch in his expression. Call it the Alt slouch if you will. It's the ease that takes his smarter sexy position of previous work into a new edge. That the dresses are cut-draped with more 'away from the body' louche swing (as moved Versace this season) doesn't mean the pieces are poorly constructed! I will bet you they are not. You may be mistaking a production point for slouch and ease in how the clothes are to speak on the wearer? The truth is, I suspect, that you haven't, and can't, actually see anything about the technical proficiencies from the photos.
If you're saying it's impossible to see the technical proficiency from the photos, how are you so sure that there are, if any, proficiencies to be observed?

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25-09-2012
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Anthony Vaccarello triumphantly sailed into new territory with a breathtaking offering for what is sure to be a high octane SS13.

The 2011 ANDAM award winner took his signature asymmetric slashing of hems - often to the thigh - and reimagined the diagonal as draped sails and crossover skirtpieces leaving little to the imagination. A nautical theme (and naughty of course) but no hackneyed blue and white stripes or somesuch for Vaccarello. Sails, bolt holes, an easy breezy theme. The windblown hair (seen first, and to devestating effect, on Cara Delevingne) signaled the underlying push of the work - movement - as yacht sails might blow in the wind. But there were no ropes. There was no tack. Vaccarello barely fastened his girl's attire. We were led to feel that, louchely, the combination of speed and wind may well blow it all apart, away.

And blown away we were. By the sheer weights of slouchy shirtdresses. By zips - on the diagonal of course - right across both breasts of black, vaguely bikerish shirts, or running dangerously high across one thigh, later two. By a deep navel plunge here and there. And of course by those parting cross-over skirts.

The black and white opening chimes with the monochrome trend we've seen (frankly too much of in NYC) but Vaccerello didn't overpower the eye with busy geometries. He kept it simple. Such that we barely noticed. Later a starry night was evoked. Again on gently sheer pieces. The naughty nautical night? Jourdan Dunn's look seemed please to see us. These girls have balls

Metallics continued to drape. Fluidly. With boyfriend captain jackets (sleeved heaved up Miami Vice/Duran Duran vid stylie). There is something 80's glam about the Vaccarello signatures -in the diagonals. And in the whole unabashed luxeglam. But now with Alt ease.

The metallics then morphed into some big sea-cat prints. Tigers, or leopards, of the ocean. Spray. At look 26 Aline Weber was evoking omg Debbie Harry at her prime. The diagonal signature pushed up to an asymmetric top. Just as it had been on Anja Rubik's opening look. Again with the jacket of the captain boyfriend. The Vaccarello woman being on the arm of the man in charge. And who steers. With his rudder. Fast. The wind. The rush. The heady rush.


Last edited by Tentacl Ventricl; 25-09-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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25-09-2012
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I dislike that skirt cut he went with so whole-heartedly, with the criss-cross construction - that would be very difficult to WEAR in most of the lengths shown. And, I don't like the trousers; I don't find them flattering at all. Overall, it's just not my taste - too trashy.

But I agree with you Tentacl Ventricl that he may be going after a Balmain look, only it's not nearly as "rock n roll" in my opinion. It doesn't have the luxe.

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25-09-2012
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I think it's sexy and fun and interesting. I'm surprised everyone dislikes this that much.

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25-09-2012
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Nice write up Tentacl; even though I didn't like the collection much I liked your review and can appreciate the diagonal lines in the tops, sort of....

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26-09-2012
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I watched the video. For me this collections looks like a ZARA display.
Those cargo pants, little dress, jackets with rolled sleeves...

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26-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Not Plain Jane View Post
I dislike that skirt cut he went with so whole-heartedly, with the criss-cross construction - that would be very difficult to WEAR in most of the lengths shown. And, I don't like the trousers; I don't find them flattering at all. Overall, it's just not my taste - too trashy.

But I agree with you Tentacl Ventricl that he may be going after a Balmain look, only it's not nearly as "rock n roll" in my opinion. It doesn't have the luxe.
WearabilitySwearability . Ok one would have to have a tidy upperthigh and well chosen panties, but let me paint you the context (wearability being all about time/place/occasion?) A hot summer's night, sultry. A major European city or resort. Fine dining. The hottest clubs. Ok, exiting the low chassis of the supercar, mine or yours, in AV, is going to be, well, let's say interesting. Of course, most of us are not this flashy on a daily basis but for a bit of buzzy escapism...

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26-09-2012
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I don't particularly love it but i don't hate it as well.

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26-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lena View Post
dont care for the collection, what i liked is that great location

everybody was freezing but at least it was interesting to show in an open industrial area
yeah!
It looks like the basement of the IFM... Wasn't it ?

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26-09-2012
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26-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BerlinRocks View Post
It looks like the basement of the IFM... Wasn't it ?
not sure, but judging from the first seconds of the video seems to be an open space
also people were reporting that everyone was freezing ( it been quite cold in Paris)

anyway, i believe it was held at some semi-open air garage

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26-09-2012
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^ IFM (French Fashion Institute) is located on the Seine, in the 13th arr. (rive gauche) it's a big "ugly" green building (I'm on iPad and cannot post pictures) ... Not so far from the BNF (French National Library).
This building is also the Design Museum. It was supposed to be a Huge project when they started it, but actually no one ever wanted to be there ... So the basement who originally was supposed to be for shops and stuff has been empty for a long long long time.
I don't know why but it seems that since last year it's getting a bit more of attention, and this summer the Wanderlust's opening (a club) got some attention and bring all the rive droite "hipsters" ...

I'm pretty sure you saw the show over there ... Ahahahah!


Last edited by BerlinRocks; 26-09-2012 at 06:09 PM.
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26-09-2012
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Runway Music
Okay, first i have to say that while I understand where people are coming from in terms of their critiques of the collection, I actually liked it. the relaxed sexuality is something I think has been missing from Paris since Christophe Decarnin left Balmain. While Anthony's technical abilities ARE kinda questionable, he still managed to turn out a pretty decent collection. One that i think alot of people would wear.

Okay now to the REAL reason I'm here, does ANYONE have a tracklisting for the show? the music was AMAZING!!

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27-09-2012
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such a cool show i like more pieces every time i see it

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