Anthony Vaccarello S/S 2013 Paris - Page 3

Tentacl Ventricl · 25-09-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyNameIs

I liked his last season's collection and it's definitely not nearly as good this time around. Most of the looks seem sloppy and messy. The construction seems lacking.

What you're seeing as 'sloppy/messy', on one hand is just your eye being straight, on the other it's just the new slouch in his expression. Call it the Alt slouch if you will. It's the ease that takes his smarter sexy position of previous work into a new edge. That the dresses are cut-draped with more 'away from the body' louche swing (as moved Versace this season) doesn't mean the pieces are poorly constructed! I will bet you they are not. You may be mistaking a production point for slouch and ease in how the clothes are to speak on the wearer? The truth is, I suspect, that you haven't, and can't, actually see anything about the technical proficiencies from the photos.

Littleathquakes · 25-09-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl

What you're seeing as 'sloppy/messy', on one hand is just your eye being straight, on the other it's just the new slouch in his expression. Call it the Alt slouch if you will. It's the ease that takes his smarter sexy position of previous work into a new edge. That the dresses are cut-draped with more 'away from the body' louche swing (as moved Versace this season) doesn't mean the pieces are poorly constructed! I will bet you they are not. You may be mistaking a production point for slouch and ease in how the clothes are to speak on the wearer? The truth is, I suspect, that you haven't, and can't, actually see anything about the technical proficiencies from the photos.

If you're saying it's impossible to see the technical proficiency from the photos, how are you so sure that there are, if any, proficiencies to be observed?

Tentacl Ventricl · 25-09-2012

Anthony Vaccarello triumphantly sailed into new territory with a breathtaking offering for what is sure to be a high octane SS13.

The 2011 ANDAM award winner took his signature asymmetric slashing of hems - often to the thigh - and reimagined the diagonal as draped sails and crossover skirtpieces leaving little to the imagination. A nautical theme (and naughty of course) but no hackneyed blue and white stripes or somesuch for Vaccarello. Sails, bolt holes, an easy breezy theme. The windblown hair (seen first, and to devestating effect, on Cara Delevingne) signaled the underlying push of the work - movement - as yacht sails might blow in the wind. But there were no ropes. There was no tack. Vaccarello barely fastened his girl's attire. We were led to feel that, louchely, the combination of speed and wind may well blow it all apart, away.

And blown away we were. By the sheer weights of slouchy shirtdresses. By zips - on the diagonal of course - right across both breasts of black, vaguely bikerish shirts, or running dangerously high across one thigh, later two. By a deep navel plunge here and there. And of course by those parting cross-over skirts.

The black and white opening chimes with the monochrome trend we've seen (frankly too much of in NYC) but Vaccerello didn't overpower the eye with busy geometries. He kept it simple. Such that we barely noticed. Later a starry night was evoked. Again on gently sheer pieces. The naughty nautical night? Jourdan Dunn's look seemed please to see us. These girls have balls

Metallics continued to drape. Fluidly. With boyfriend captain jackets (sleeved heaved up Miami Vice/Duran Duran vid stylie). There is something 80's glam about the Vaccarello signatures -in the diagonals. And in the whole unabashed luxeglam. But now with Alt ease.

The metallics then morphed into some big sea-cat prints. Tigers, or leopards, of the ocean. Spray. At look 26 Aline Weber was evoking omg Debbie Harry at her prime. The diagonal signature pushed up to an asymmetric top. Just as it had been on Anja Rubik's opening look. Again with the jacket of the captain boyfriend. The Vaccarello woman being on the arm of the man in charge. And who steers. With his rudder. Fast. The wind. The rush. The heady rush.

Not Plain Jane · 25-09-2012

I dislike that skirt cut he went with so whole-heartedly, with the criss-cross construction - that would be very difficult to WEAR in most of the lengths shown. And, I don't like the trousers; I don't find them flattering at all. Overall, it's just not my taste - too trashy.

But I agree with you Tentacl Ventricl that he may be going after a Balmain look, only it's not nearly as "rock n roll" in my opinion. It doesn't have the luxe.

TianSoFine · 25-09-2012

I think it's sexy and fun and interesting. I'm surprised everyone dislikes this that much.

Not Plain Jane · 25-09-2012

Nice write up Tentacl; even though I didn't like the collection much I liked your review and can appreciate the diagonal lines in the tops, sort of....

IloveDiorHomme · 26-09-2012

I watched the video. For me this collections looks like a ZARA display.
Those cargo pants, little dress, jackets with rolled sleeves...

Tentacl Ventricl · 26-09-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Not Plain Jane

I dislike that skirt cut he went with so whole-heartedly, with the criss-cross construction - that would be very difficult to WEAR in most of the lengths shown. And, I don't like the trousers; I don't find them flattering at all. Overall, it's just not my taste - too trashy.

But I agree with you Tentacl Ventricl that he may be going after a Balmain look, only it's not nearly as "rock n roll" in my opinion. It doesn't have the luxe.

WearabilitySwearability

. Ok one would have to have a tidy upperthigh and well chosen panties, but let me paint you the context (wearability being all about time/place/occasion?) A hot summer's night, sultry. A major European city or resort. Fine dining. The hottest clubs. Ok, exiting the low chassis of the supercar, mine or yours, in AV, is going to be, well, let's say interesting. Of course, most of us are not this flashy on a daily basis but for a bit of buzzy escapism...

elle_gb · 26-09-2012

I don't particularly love it but i don't hate it as well.

BerlinRocks · 26-09-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lena

dont care for the collection, what i liked is that great location

everybody was freezing but at least it was interesting to show in an open industrial area
yeah!

It looks like the basement of the IFM... Wasn't it ?

Pradable · 26-09-2012

Lena · 26-09-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by BerlinRocks

It looks like the basement of the IFM... Wasn't it ?

not sure, but judging from the first seconds of the video seems to be an open space
also people were reporting that everyone was freezing ( it been quite cold in Paris)

anyway, i believe it was held at some semi-open air garage

BerlinRocks · 26-09-2012

^ IFM (French Fashion Institute) is located on the Seine, in the 13th arr. (rive gauche) it's a big "ugly" green building (I'm on iPad and cannot post pictures) ... Not so far from the BNF (French National Library).
This building is also the Design Museum. It was supposed to be a Huge project when they started it, but actually no one ever wanted to be there ... So the basement who originally was supposed to be for shops and stuff has been empty for a long long long time.
I don't know why but it seems that since last year it's getting a bit more of attention, and this summer the Wanderlust's opening (a club) got some attention and bring all the rive droite "hipsters" ...

I'm pretty sure you saw the show over there ... Ahahahah!

andiep · 26-09-2012

Okay, first i have to say that while I understand where people are coming from in terms of their critiques of the collection, I actually liked it. the relaxed sexuality is something I think has been missing from Paris since Christophe Decarnin left Balmain. While Anthony's technical abilities ARE kinda questionable, he still managed to turn out a pretty decent collection. One that i think alot of people would wear.

Okay now to the REAL reason I'm here, does ANYONE have a tracklisting for the show? the music was AMAZING!!

gossiping · 27-09-2012

such a cool show i like more pieces every time i see it

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25-09-2012	33
Tentacl Ventricl backstage pass Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: london Gender: homme Posts: 514	Anthony Vaccarello triumphantly sailed into new territory with a breathtaking offering for what is sure to be a high octane SS13. The 2011 ANDAM award winner took his signature asymmetric slashing of hems - often to the thigh - and reimagined the diagonal as draped sails and crossover skirtpieces leaving little to the imagination. A nautical theme (and naughty of course) but no hackneyed blue and white stripes or somesuch for Vaccarello. Sails, bolt holes, an easy breezy theme. The windblown hair (seen first, and to devestating effect, on Cara Delevingne) signaled the underlying push of the work - movement - as yacht sails might blow in the wind. But there were no ropes. There was no tack. Vaccarello barely fastened his girl's attire. We were led to feel that, louchely, the combination of speed and wind may well blow it all apart, away. And blown away we were. By the sheer weights of slouchy shirtdresses. By zips - on the diagonal of course - right across both breasts of black, vaguely bikerish shirts, or running dangerously high across one thigh, later two. By a deep navel plunge here and there. And of course by those parting cross-over skirts. The black and white opening chimes with the monochrome trend we've seen (frankly too much of in NYC) but Vaccerello didn't overpower the eye with busy geometries. He kept it simple. Such that we barely noticed. Later a starry night was evoked. Again on gently sheer pieces. The naughty nautical night? Jourdan Dunn's look seemed please to see us. These girls have balls Metallics continued to drape. Fluidly. With boyfriend captain jackets (sleeved heaved up Miami Vice/Duran Duran vid stylie). There is something 80's glam about the Vaccarello signatures -in the diagonals. And in the whole unabashed luxeglam. But now with Alt ease. The metallics then morphed into some big sea-cat prints. Tigers, or leopards, of the ocean. Spray. At look 26 Aline Weber was evoking omg Debbie Harry at her prime. The diagonal signature pushed up to an asymmetric top. Just as it had been on Anja Rubik's opening look. Again with the jacket of the captain boyfriend. The Vaccarello woman being on the arm of the man in charge. And who steers. With his rudder. Fast. The wind. The rush. The heady rush. Last edited by Tentacl Ventricl; 25-09-2012 at 08:58 PM.

25-09-2012	34
Not Plain Jane V.I.P. Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Canada Gender: femme Posts: 8,289	I dislike that skirt cut he went with so whole-heartedly, with the criss-cross construction - that would be very difficult to WEAR in most of the lengths shown. And, I don't like the trousers; I don't find them flattering at all. Overall, it's just not my taste - too trashy. But I agree with you Tentacl Ventricl that he may be going after a Balmain look, only it's not nearly as "rock n roll" in my opinion. It doesn't have the luxe. __________________ Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged

25-09-2012	35
TianSoFine fashion insider Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: a metropolis of dreams Gender: femme Posts: 2,262	I think it's sexy and fun and interesting. I'm surprised everyone dislikes this that much. __________________ my blog my twitter *my tumblr

25-09-2012	36
Not Plain Jane V.I.P. Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Canada Gender: femme Posts: 8,289	Nice write up Tentacl; even though I didn't like the collection much I liked your review and can appreciate the diagonal lines in the tops, sort of.... __________________ Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged

26-09-2012	37
IloveDiorHomme backstage pass Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Dreamsland Gender: homme Posts: 526	I watched the video. For me this collections looks like a ZARA display. Those cargo pants, little dress, jackets with rolled sleeves... __________________ ntm

26-09-2012	39
elle_gb fashion insider Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Thailand Gender: homme Posts: 2,151	I don't particularly love it but i don't hate it as well.

26-09-2012	41
Pradable V.I.P. Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Colombia Gender: homme Posts: 4,872	__________________ 'Mon amour, je sais que tu m'aimes aussi, tu as besoin de moi, tu as besoin de moi dans ta vie, tu ne peux vivre sans moi et je mourrerai sans toi. Je tuerai pour toi'

26-09-2012	43
BerlinRocks V.I.P. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Manhattan ftm Gender: homme Posts: 10,848	^ IFM (French Fashion Institute) is located on the Seine, in the 13th arr. (rive gauche) it's a big "ugly" green building (I'm on iPad and cannot post pictures) ... Not so far from the BNF (French National Library). This building is also the Design Museum. It was supposed to be a Huge project when they started it, but actually no one ever wanted to be there ... So the basement who originally was supposed to be for shops and stuff has been empty for a long long long time. I don't know why but it seems that since last year it's getting a bit more of attention, and this summer the Wanderlust's opening (a club) got some attention and bring all the rive droite "hipsters" ... I'm pretty sure you saw the show over there ... Ahahahah! __________________ *+++Love and Passion to everyONE in 2011 +++* Last edited by BerlinRocks; 26-09-2012 at 06:09 PM.

26-09-2012	44
andiep windowshopping Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1	Runway Music Okay, first i have to say that while I understand where people are coming from in terms of their critiques of the collection, I actually liked it. the relaxed sexuality is something I think has been missing from Paris since Christophe Decarnin left Balmain. While Anthony's technical abilities ARE kinda questionable, he still managed to turn out a pretty decent collection. One that i think alot of people would wear. Okay now to the REAL reason I'm here, does ANYONE have a tracklisting for the show? the music was AMAZING!!

27-09-2012	45
gossiping V.I.P. Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: united kingdom Gender: femme Posts: 13,225	such a cool show i like more pieces every time i see it __________________

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