Bouchra Jarrar Named Women’s Designer of Lanvin - Page 4 - the Fashion Spot
 
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09-06-2016
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Actually that suit+flats combo is very in the mood of Alber's interpretation of Lanvin, s/s 11 and s/s 13 collections come to my mind. This preview is very calm and clean, yet feminine and sharp. At the same time I don't know what to think about that white gown because it doesn't bring anything new to the table. But I have to wait for the whole collection.

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09-06-2016
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This is beautiful, nothing spectacular but very fresh.

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09-06-2016
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I actually do think this speaks to Alber's Lanvin. I always saw his woman as an extremely strong, sensual, sophisticated one who rules the city without losing her femininity one bit. This has that same sophistication and and strong femininity, granted less bourgeois and far more minimal. It's only 5 looks from a Resort collection, but it's giving me similar vibes from Phoebe's Céline Pre-Fall 2010 collection. Really looking forward for what she'll do here, I think it's going to be great!

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10-06-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodencebt View Post
I agree, it's a bit ordinary for me. You can't deny that these are beautifully crafted clothes and that the fabrics speak for themselves, but if these five photos are an indication of what the show is going to look like then I don't think it's going to be very exciting.
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Originally Posted by Creative View Post
Beyond irrelevant and plain, but this is a resort so who cares. And those capri pants look bad sewn.

Judging by this it looks like I won't be a fan of her collections for Lanvin. I was craving for a different attitude, a new energy... Yet we got what everyone else is doing.
Me too, if Jarrar's Lanvin will be like this Resort it will be surely loved but i don't see nothing exciting, nothing what we didn't see many times , what many Designers did and does.
And the pumps, i like, yes but this green pumps have something similar to Michele's Pumps from F/W 16. (when i saw the pumps on the photo my first thought was that this pumps are very Gucci- f/W 16-like. Till colour, there in blue, here in green.

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10-06-2016
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Lanvin may be the oldest Couture house, it codes and history are unknown by most of people. We all knows what makes a Chanel, Dior, Givenchy and even Ungaro collection.
Alber did created codes for the house even if most of those codes were more about him than the house itself: the roundness of the designs, the industrial zipper, the frayed details, the raw edges, the use of gros-grain, the natural shoulders...etc.

Those are constructions details but they became synonymous of Lanvin. I would have loved Bouchra's takes on those things.
Even Lanvin's bags had a certain look.

This preview makes you think that they are starting over without aknowledging the 14 years before. She may use archival prints but it will not speak to anyone because Lanvin history is not very known in the first place (as i said before).
I'm curious on how the 30's will mix-up with it.

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10-06-2016
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I don't even get why they showed this in the first place... If I was the designer I would like to make my first statement with a rtw show. This is more basic than Zara... It looks like a Coss catalogue and they are doing something Phoebe did 6 years ago... I don't get it. The look with the green bag for example. I mean, it doesn't even look expensive or well made.

That's a problem I used to have with Bouchra at her own label... Things looked like done by hand and carefully but not by people with lots of savoir faire à la Chanel... Garments had like little mistakes in the way things were sewn, little contruction details that look cheap for a designer as experienced as her, irregular hems, bented zipers... And I think she doesn't have a great eye for textiles to be honest.

Still waiting for her S/S show. I hope it doesn't look as elegant-contrived as this and that it has more fashion factor. A little bit of fresh air was very needed chez Lanvin...

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12-06-2017
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PARIS, France — The crisis facing France's oldest fashion brand Lanvin is deepening, with sales slumping, losses set to widen this year and staff worried about a strategy focused on cost cutting, sources with knowledge of the situation told Reuters.

Founded in 1889, Lanvin is one of France's last major independent fashion labels in an industry dominated by multi-brand groups such as LVMH and Kering.

It has been in turmoil since the shock sacking in 2015 of star designer Alber Elbaz after a boardroom dispute. Elbaz was widely credited with infusing new life into the brand and being its driving force.

Designer Bouchra Jarrar, appointed in March 2016, has brought a more strict, tailored style that is very different from Elbaz's often ultra-feminine silhouettes, and the new approach has so far failed to lift sales, the sources said.

"The first collection went very badly, the second did not do better," one said, speaking on condition of anonymity because the company has not published figures.

Another source with access to the company's results said sales fell 23 percent last year to €162 million ($182 million). At their peak in 2012, they were €235 million.

Sales slumped a further 32 percent in the first two months of 2017, the source added, in contrast to strong performances at luxury rivals such as LVMH's Louis Vuitton and Kering's Gucci.

As a result, Lanvin fell into net loss of €18.3 million last year, its first in nearly a decade, from a profit of €6.3 million in 2015. The loss is seen widening to €27 million in 2017, the source said.

Lanvin and Jarrar did not respond to requests for comment.

The company, which currently has nearly 300 staff in France, has appointed advisory firm Long Term Partners to conduct an audit and has been cutting costs as a result, closing several non-profitable stores, the sources said.

The programme will reduce advertising spending and store investments, and a plan to lay off nine people is under way too, with more cuts in the pipeline for 2017, they added.

But some employees are leaving and the company faces a challenge to retain talent, the sources said.

Management wants to create a leather goods line for fashion outlets, but some industry specialists said using what are often cheaper, discount stores could damage Lanvin's luxury image.

"A jewel of the French fashion industry is under threat and staff are running out of patience," one of the sources said.

Controlling shareholder, 75-year-old Chinese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang who is based in Taiwan, has been reluctant to invest in the brand for many years.

She would not let her associate Swiss investor Ralph Bartel, who owns 25 percent of Lanvin, inject more cash into the business to support the brand as it would dilute her stake, sources have said.

"He disagrees with the options chosen by the management and wants an urgent change in strategy," one source said of Bartel.

Wang and Bartel could not be reached for comment.

By Pascale Denis and Dominique Vidalon; editors: Sudip Kar-Gupta and Mark Potter.


source; BUSINESS OF FASHION

what a shame, because i actually like what she did at the house...lets see if they can weather the storm..

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13-06-2017
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Anyway, it's a tough job walking in Alber's steps...because everybody loved, I mean adored him so much.

Her collections for Lanvin are not ugly, per se, but are so lifeless and predictable. I passed by their shop the other day and what I saw was not super attractive but quite basic. Maybe Mrs Wang wanted a designer like Jarrar who would design a pedestrian wardrobe but her clothes don't scream any fantasy or surprise. And the communication around them is almost invisible.
I think Simone Rocha would be a great fit replace Bouchra Jarrar...

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13-06-2017
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^Simone would be even more predictable than Bouchra imho.

I don't know what to think about this. It's like people have forgotten how boring Alber had become at the end of his tenure yet with Jarrar it's been boring since the very beginning. I can see why people don't buy her aesthetic but it's a pity that she closed her namesake label and she would have nowhere to go if she was fired. And she's too good for this. On the other hand there's no good solution for this whole situation because even if they change the designer, people won't buy their clothes, too because they are still used to Alber.


Last edited by perhydrol; 13-06-2017 at 04:51 AM.
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13-06-2017
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It's a matter of time before she leaves because Mrs Wang said to Mlle Agnes that if it doesn't work, she'll leave.
The reality is that all of this will kill the brand. Nobody will ever want to work in such an environment.

Jarrar clothes are just anonymous. Her formula worked for Couture because it's much more easier to make a statement there. Her Couture couldn't be more different from everybody...So it worked.
Why anyone would ever want to buy a boring pant or blouse at Lanvin when they can at a much more buzz-worthy brand like Saint Laurent or Gucci.

There's also a lack of real signature items. Alber was boring but at least, he had his dresses that were recognizable and still worn by a handful of celebs.

I don't know why but i'm having a real Miguel Adrover moment right now. He needs to comeback and Lanvin could be great for him!
Also, Lucas Ossendrijver is doing great with the menswear...Why not giving him the womenswear? I wanted for him to take Dior Homme but KVA is still there so....

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13-06-2017
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I agree Lucas would do an awesome job at Lanvin womenswear....more than Bouchra because she doesn't try anything at all. I feel a bit sad for her, I hate designer bashing, but come on....she leads the oldest french fashion brand, she has incredible ateliers to work with and so many means.
And incredible archives too.

And I don't think Simone Rocha is that predictible. Young designers should lead more fashion houses, when they still have a bit of freshness and are not used of 50 seasons of fashionw week behind them. ( like Kiko Kostadinov who did a beautiful and solid collection for Mackintosh this year ).

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Last edited by IloveDiorHomme; 13-06-2017 at 06:49 AM.
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13-06-2017
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Quote:
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Why anyone would ever want to buy a boring pant or blouse at Lanvin when they can at a much more buzz-worthy brand like Saint Laurent or Gucci.
Isn't there also an argument to be made that the "boring" blouse could be worn 5-10 years from now, whereas that Gucci piece will make you go "WTF was I thinking?" 2 years down the road? I mean, Chanel and Armani hasn't changed their aesthetic in decades, yet they still have their loyal customers. But I do see your point.

For whatever reason, the new Lanvin has completely failed to register. It's not loud enough, not "quirky" enough, etc - basically none of the things seemingly needed to appeal to the Instagram crowd. Shame. I like the collections and I find Jarrar's direction a breath of fresh air in the current climate. It could be stronger so I hope they give her more time, but it sounds like she might not get it.

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13-06-2017
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I think quiet design registers just as well as loud design. Tragically jarrar is failing to inspire either end of the spectrum. I simply don't understand her message with her clothes. Yes they might be subtle, but have you bought them? Do these collections inspire consumer to pull a credit card? Hell no.

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13-06-2017
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Quote:
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It's not loud enough, not "quirky" enough, etc - basically none of the things seemingly needed to appeal to the Instagram crowd. Shame. I like the collections and I find Jarrar's direction a breath of fresh air in the current climate. It could be stronger so I hope they give her more time, but it sounds like she might not get it.
I don't think it's a matter of being loud or quirky enough. It's just not distinctive enough.
I guess you must know about Martin Grant. He is just one of the best in this. He doesn't rely on quirk or loudness but his clothes are distinctive, beautiful, easy to wear and just great. Plus, he is quite versatile.

Bouchra is a good designer and i wanted to give her a chance but what she does is maybe more fitted for a house like HERMES or if one day DELVAUX decide to do a RTW line, she would the best to do that.

This is big fashion house with an history of great designers and it needs more.
Lanvin is in big trouble now and maybe they need a total revamp. It's hard to standout while whispering. She's not Margiela at Hermes...

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13-06-2017
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The problem is the Owner refuses to put more cash into the business, no designer will ever be able to turn it around unless that happens. Sell it to someone willing too, Madame Wang...

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