Bouchra Jarrar Named Women’s Designer of Lanvin - Page 5 - the Fashion Spot
 
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^ She's so stubborn she'll probably drive the company straight into the ground. Bad karma at Lanvin.

Think you've lost face yet, Madame Wang? I say you have.

I agree, MyNameIs ... I still have the first Lanvin blouse I ever bought, totally worth every penny of the full retail I paid, and it's still gorgeous.

Jarrar is a good designer, but she was incredibly niche then, and still is. The Lanvin magic walked out the door with Alber.

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My aunt bought me a jacket and pants from Jarrar when she did couture; I would probably sacrifice someone else's child if they were ever threatened.

Has anyone stepped into a Lanvin store recently and actually tried on any of the clothes...? Perhaps I am being unfair but it was not worth the price point. I would rather spend on Gucci. They are slashing prices like crazy now and I don't know of anyone that wants it.

I would love to see her at Hermes. My Mum and I are very boring, fashion-wise, but Vahnee-Cybulski (sp? whatever) is producing nothing but sleeping pills.

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^ I haven't ... I tried to go to the Chicago boutique when I was there last summer, but it was already closed.

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PS I believe the quality issues didn't start with her, they started several years ago. Someone on the business side clearly has a heavy hand on the materials. It's been very obvious in the fabrics ... someone seems determined to increase margin. OK, but you have to find a way to do that without driving desirability into the ground. The Lanvin customer isn't stupid ... she has to feel like she's getting her money's worth. That would be the downside of selling to a woman with a head on her shoulders ...

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One of the things I really notice is the leather goods which were quite luxurious and unique before. They decide to ditch the blue lining and the "collection labels" which I thought are what make Lanvin stand out. Now you get a dull simple handbag with a boring Lanvin tag on it. Completely undesirable.

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^ I believe the blue lining is/was a post-Alber thing. He chose the cornflower blue from the archives, but it was used for packaging, tags, the logo, etc. None of my Lanvin bags (all from the Alber era) had a blue lining. Typically black logo taffeta.

I didn't know they had changed the labeling. I agree it was nice, especially the anniversary labels. It was also nice to have the date in seasonal items--you never have to try to remember when something was from Marni does this too for at least some collections.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by fashionista-ta View Post
PS I believe the quality issues didn't start with her, they started several years ago. Someone on the business side clearly has a heavy hand on the materials. It's been very obvious in the fabrics ... someone seems determined to increase margin. OK, but you have to find a way to do that without driving desirability into the ground. The Lanvin customer isn't stupid ... she has to feel like she's getting her money's worth. That would be the downside of selling to a woman with a head on her shoulders ...
Aah, thanks for pointing that out. I don't buy much new Lanvin so I wouldn't have picked this up. That's really unfortunate. I hope sense prevails with that house before some hedge fund or conglomerate devours it .

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Wang seems so obsessed with money, she doesn't seem to care about this brand. She won't invest money in it and she doesn't want someone else investing into it so it doesn't dilute her share. She should probably just sell Lanvin for a huge profit before its value plummets, which seems like it will given how things are going

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Quote:
Originally Posted by squilliam View Post
Wang seems so obsessed with money, she doesn't seem to care about this brand. She won't invest money in it and she doesn't want someone else investing into it so it doesn't dilute her share. She should probably just sell Lanvin for a huge profit before its value plummets, which seems like it will given how things are going
I have always been curious with how fashion houses make money.

Boutiques are in places with the highest rents, designers, models, fashion shows, advertising, campaigns, functions and events all costs a lot of money.

How many expensive dresses or bags can the flagship Parisian boutique of Lanvin sell in a day?

What Wang needs to do to make it profitable again?

But at the rate this is going, assuming the situation is like what the above mentioned, she is going to suffer a slow death, expenditures will be there yet little income.
My guess is that she will be forced to make a decision soon..

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^ Perfume can be a place they make money, that, beauty, and accessories. There are brands like Marc Jacobs, of course, that actually sell the clothes Radical, I know. I'm sure that's where quite a bit of Lanvin revenue has come from.

But of course her very first move was to sell the perfume off, so that's out. I think the accessories are quite good, but they've never had an It bag ... there hasn't been a breakout.

I think a big part of the problem is that Wang doesn't know anything about the fashion business. It's hard for anyone to cross industries successfully, and she is further burdened by her ego, unwillingness to listen, and fear of losing face.

They do have the best ballerina in the industry ... I hope I'll still be able to buy them in the future.

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^Not even Marc sells enough actually clothing though to sustain his business, but that is sad state of the industry. Someone needs to buy Lanvin and then buy back the perfume rights, only way they will ever make it.

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^Not even Marc sells enough actually clothing though to sustain his business, but that is the sad state of the industry. Someone needs to buy Lanvin and then buy back the perfume rights, only way they will ever make it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetements View Post
I have always been curious with how fashion houses make money.

Boutiques are in places with the highest rents, designers, models, fashion shows, advertising, campaigns, functions and events all costs a lot of money.

How many expensive dresses or bags can the flagship Parisian boutique of Lanvin sell in a day?

What Wang needs to do to make it profitable again?

But at the rate this is going, assuming the situation is like what the above mentioned, she is going to suffer a slow death, expenditures will be there yet little income.
My guess is that she will be forced to make a decision soon..
The reality today is that a lot of fashion or luxury houses are making money with their clothes. But that doesn't mean that their business is driven by clothes.
For a longtime, there was this fantasy that people only bought the perfumes and handbags but never the clothes. It has never been totally the truth.

The big difference between small fashion houses and big luxury conglomerates is the "trend" factor.
Look at Marc Jacobs. His clothes were selling at Vuitton...Even if it was 20%, it was considered as good because Vuitton RTW is quite exclusive.
His own brand was a real fashion brand and most of sales were RTW. As soon as the hype around Marc Jacobs died, the business was in trouble even more than compared to a lot of other designers, he didn't have a signature and the expansion was too agressive.

This is what happened with Lanvin. Mrs Wang surely did invest a lot. Early on, they had campaigns with big photographers, big models and the house started to make money out of clothes very fast. They never had an it bag to secure their business and they reached their peak at a time when people were dressing up.
Suddenly, people wanted to dress down and Lanvin was about cocktail dresses.

To make money again, they needs to invest in a good creative direction and in the business side. Simple as that.

Look at Versace. Their business is totally driven by clothes & accessories. They don't have a signature blockbuster perfume a and they only recently had their first "It Bag".
From 1998 to 2004/2005...The house was slowly dying. Donatella changed her team, had a lot of good reviewed shows, they closed a lot of their stores around the world and only kept the most prestigious. Of course they always had the support of their loyal customers and Hollywood. And once they were ready for world domination, they did the H&M thing.

The thing about Lanvin is that they are still going to lose money because Bouchra's collections don't standout enough. The stores are not interested in buying it and she hasn't manage to keep Alber's customers. The people who are buying Lanvin today are new customers or people who bought Bouchra's clothes.

Lanvin needs a total Revamp la Loewe/Saint Laurent but i don't think that anyone would be interested in working with Mrs Wang.


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