Bouchra Jarrar Named Women’s Designer of Lanvin - the Fashion Spot
 
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11-03-2016
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Bouchra Jarrar Named Women’s Designer of Lanvin
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PARIS – Bouchra Jarrar has been named artistic director of women’s collections at Lanvin. She starts on Monday, and is expected to unveil her first collection here this fall for the spring-summer 2017 season.

This confirms a WWD report on March 8 that the seasoned talent was on the way to become Lanvin’s new designer, succeeding Alber Elbaz at the storied fashion house — and catapulting her fashion career.

“Her timeless style is in keeping with the style and values of our company,” said Lanvin chief executive officer Michèle Huiban. “Her talent, her high standards and her mastery of cuts and fabrics will bring a breath of freshness and modernity into the house, while respecting its soul as the oldest Paris couture house, a symbol of French elegance.”

In a statement, Jarrar, 45, said her intention is to “bring to Lanvin the harmony and consistency of a fashion designed for women, a fashion of our time.”

A petite, self-assured woman whose dark eyes stare out from behind a curtain of extra-long bangs, Jarrar launched her signature house in 2010 after 15 years of behind-the-scenes toil, most notably as studio director at Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga and head of couture design for Christian Lacroix. She earned the official haute couture appellation in 2013.

She had recently indicated she was open to collaborations with other brands, having signed on last month to do a high jewelry collection for Mauboussin, debuting in July.

“Joining Lanvin satisfies my desire to create and express myself in a space of larger expression,” Jarrar said in today’s statement.

Known for her exacting silhouettes, she has accrued a cultlike following for her streamlined sportswear, and takes an old-school approach to fashion, putting quality and technical finesse ahead of razzmatazz.

She certainly places more of an emphasis on daywear than Elbaz, who was ousted from the house last October after a stellar 14-year tenure, during which he made Lanvin synonymous with soigne cocktail dresses with frayed edges, or festooned with grosgrain ribbons.

Among Jarrar’s fetish items is the perfecto jacket, and she is also known the cut of her trousers, pea coats and tuxedo jackets. Recently, she has pushed herself to include evening gowns in crushed velvet or satin.

Like Elbaz, prized for his draping ability and seamless garments, Jarrar is also a very hands-on designer, developing her own tweed fabrics and fitting tailored pieces to the millimeter.
For her couture collections, she frequently collaborates with specialty ateliers including Lesage for elaborate embroideries involving crystals and feathers.

Born in Cannes, France, Jarrar has expressed an admiration for the approach of couturiers in the Fifties and Sixties such as Cristóbal Balenciaga and Gabrielle Chanel, who exalted women with their pristine and sculptural designs.

After graduating from Paris’ Duperré School of Applied Arts in 1994, Jarrar worked on Jean Paul Gaultier’s licensed jewelry collection for two years before arriving at Balenciaga under Josephus Thimister.

When Ghesquière took the creative helm, she served as his studio director until 2006, helping to create ready-to-wear collections that approached couture. She logged a brief stint at Jean-Louis Scherrer and then, eager to delve deeper into high-fashion techniques, joined Lacroix in 2008 as couture head of design.

Lacroix, who exited his namesake house in 2009 when it shrunk to a licensing operation, encouraged her to establish her name and house.

Last year, Mode et Finance, the French venture capital firm managed by Bpifrance, made a minority investment in Jarrar’s business, with the designer holding 74 percent. Mode et Finance also has a stake in Lemaire and has made investments in Yiqing Yin, Each x Other, Ami, Nicolas Andreas Taralis and other brands.

At Lanvin, Jarrar will need to re-galvanize a house built around Elbaz’s vision and ebullient personality.

She will also be charged with helping to stem sliding sales — and make headway in the lucrative handbags business.

While Elbaz received acclaim for his runway designs, the house has struggled to find success with leather goods, and compete against larger, more well-funded rivals.

The company’s consolidated sales have been eroding, expected to have fallen to around 200 million euros, or $218.5 million at current exchange last year, versus a peak of more than 250 million euros, or $273 million, only a few years ago, according to sources.

Lanvin’s works council contested the ouster of Elbaz, concerned about the impact on the company’s economic and social welfare, and faced off against management at the Tribunal de Grande Instance last December.

The court was told that Lanvin’s profits declined from 11.9 million euros, or $15.3 million, in 2012 to 5.7 million euros, or $7.5 million, in 2013 and 2.9 million euros, or $3.9 million, in 2014.

The brand — which marked its 125th anniversary in 2014 — is dependent on its wholesale partners, which account for approximately 70 percent of revenues, with only about 30 percent of sales streaming in from direct retail.

Following Elbaz’s exit, Lanvin relied on a studio helmed by Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale to realize its pre-fall and fall collections. Its runway show during Paris Fashion Week received lackluster reviews.

Kamali had recently joined Lanvin as design director for women’s rtw from Chloé, while Finale had been promoted to creative director of women’s bags and shoes after one year as its head designer of women’s bags.

It is understood management considered a range of young and talents for the plum post, including Simone Rocha, Huishan Zhang and Erdem Moralioglu.

Taiwanese entrepreneur Shaw-Lan Wang bought Lanvin from L’Oréal in 2001, recruited Elbaz and left him a free hand to reinvent the business with chic cocktail dresses, chunky costume jewelry, ballerina flats, dressy sneakers and modernist men’s wear.

His fashion shows — typically with dramatic lighting, pounding techno and carnival refreshments — ultimately became one of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week.

Elbaz has yet to indicate his future intentions, which are said to include launching a signature fashion house.

Founder Jeanne Lanvin set up her first millinery workshop on Rue Boissy d’Anglas in 1889.

Previous designers of Lanvin include Claude Montana, Eric Bergère, Dominique Morlotti, Ocimar Versolato and Cristina Ortiz.

Jarrar will only oversee women’s collection, unlike Elbaz, who also had oversight of the men’s department.

Sources said men’s designer Lucas Ossendrijver is in contract talks and seeking to secure autonomy for his department, echoing the set-up at Dior and Louis Vuitton, which have long had separate creative chiefs for men’s and women’s.

Elbaz tapped Ossendrijver in 2005 from Dior Homme to rejuvenate Lanvin men’s wear, and the Dutchman echoed his use of couture fabrics and designs etched with industrial detailing.
wwd.com

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11-03-2016
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They didn't go for an obvious, hyped designer. That's something I appreciate. But at the same time I don't think she will have enough charisma to revamp the house. Anyway, I'm eager to see what she does. I respect her quite a lot.

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11-03-2016
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That is such great news and a great choice from Lanvin. She does amazing things for her brand and I think she fits Lanvin's style, I'm sure she'll do great things and I hope she'll last there, I can't wait to see her collection.

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11-03-2016
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Wonderful. Not only for her talent, but for naming a woman as the designer. There aren't many women actually designing for women...Men, men, men.

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11-03-2016
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Not a bad choice, but also not a very exciting one. She obviously bring the elegance, romanticism, and femininity that one would hope to see from Lanvin, so I can see her doing well there.

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11-03-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t-rex View Post
Wonderful. Not only for her talent, but for naming a woman as the designer. There aren't many women actually designing for women...Men, men, men.

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11-03-2016
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I like that! It will be interesting to see her doing something more "fashion". I like the idea of a woman designer working for a major brand.
She seems to have that "low-key Phoebe Philo" profile...maybe another cult designer in a making.

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11-03-2016
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I was so happy when I read that this morning, she's an excellent choice. I can't wait to see what she does

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11-03-2016
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I'm thrilled she's the new designer - her talent will flourish at Lanvin and I'm excited to see what she does. Her own brand has already established its signature and I hope she brings that to Lanvin.

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11-03-2016
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nothing nonsense about it and honestly this kind of responses downgrade most discussions, I know it's your style but let's make some effort.. it's not too hard.

I am happy to see a woman taking on this position too, it's actually quite odd that in the field of womenswear.. the only ones that have actual experience putting on these clothes aren't actually a majority when it comes to its creation, surprise surprise... anyway she may be great but this sounds as exciting to me as akriz for dior (is it akriz or akris? lol).. but I get Alber's shoes are gigantic for anyone to fill..


Last edited by MulletProof; 11-03-2016 at 01:40 PM.
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11-03-2016
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I'm so excited for this! It's going to be good.

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11-03-2016
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Great choice!!!

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I'm glad that those who have posted here so far are half-full about this news!

Quote:
“Joining Lanvin satisfies my desire to create and express myself in a space of larger expression,” Jarrar said in today’s statement.
The stage is all yours!

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12-03-2016
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I enjoy the understated, unhurried hand with which she handles her own label and I hope she can bring some of that to Lanvin as well. Truely luxurious clothes are so not only for the impact of the looks, but what they give to the wearer in terms of the cut and the fabric. If she can handle Lanvin with the desired “harmony and consistency of a fashion designed for women, a fashion of our time.” I can only appreciate that as an attempt to bring the clothes back to the person wearing them.

This is something generally thought about of the current state of fashion, not necessarily Alber Elbaz' work for Lanvin, which was splendid in it's own right - And frankly speaking, Bouchra Jarrar deserves a clean slate from which people judge her work, not in the context of the ugly lawsuit that followed Alber Elbaz' dismissal.

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12-03-2016
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She will close her own brand, here is the article from New York Times

Source : nytimes.com

Quote:
Lanvin Names Bouchra Jarrar as Artistic Director of Women’s Collections

By VANESSA FRIEDMAN MARCH 11, 2016

A woman is once again at the helm of the house Jeanne Lanvin built. On Friday morning, the Lanvin chief executive Michèle Huiban confirmed that Bouchra Jarrar had been named artistic director of women’s collections. She begins Monday.

According to Ms. Huiban, who spoke from Paris: “Bouchra seemed a natural for our house, founded by a woman. I felt an immediate and very true connection when we met.”

In a phone call, Ms. Jarrar said, “I am honored to be part of the extraordinary history of the house, and all the great creators who came before me.”

Lanvin is the oldest couture house continually in existence in Paris. The appointment of Ms. Jarrar, 45, follows the controversial ouster of its long-term creative director, Alber Elbaz, in October, and a poorly received women’s wear collection created by the internal design team last week. A beloved fashion figure, Mr. Elbaz was widely seen as being almost irreplaceable.

However, the choice of Ms. Jarrar, who is respected for her distinctive and disciplined point of view, as expressed most often in an inventive way with a tuxedo suit, is a canny one. She has an impeccable fashion pedigree, having started her career under Jean Paul Gaultier, and then been studio director for Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, and head of couture design for Christian Lacroix. She opened her own brand in 2010, became a part of the official couture schedule in 2013 and is one of the few independent female designers working in Paris. Though slight and soft-spoken, she is known for a steely determination and has the good will of the industry.

In announcing the appointment, Ms. Huiban said: “Her timeless style is in agreement with the style and values of our house. Her talent, her rigor, her mastery of the body and materials will bring to the house of Lanvin a freshness and modernity while respecting its historic couture soul, a symbol of French elegance.”

According to Ms. Huiban, Ms. Jarrar plans to close her own brand to “devote herself to Lanvin.”

“It was her choice. She decided she wanted a bigger playing field.”


The appointment of Ms. Jarrar heralds the understanding of Lanvin management that whatever Lanvin becomes next, its aesthetic will necessarily be different from what it was under Mr. Elbaz. Ms. Jarrar is known for her tailoring, as well as her more functional approach to couture: Though the workmanship of her clothes is never less than perfect and she has a way with the flou, she eschews complicated ball gowns for more streamlined, cooler styles; her quintessential look is a razor-sharp pair of trousers with an elaborate, feathered perfecto jacket or vest.

In an internal memo seen by The New York Times, Ms. Jarrar said: “My wish is to bring to Lanvin harmony and coherence of a world for women, a world of our time. I rejoice in being part of this beautiful chapter in the life of the house with all its teams.”

Restoring internal harmony will be an important part of Ms. Jarrar’s job at Lanvin, which fell into some chaos after the ouster of Mr. Elbaz, to the point that the workers’ council sued the management. The case was settled in December by the Tribunal de Grande Instance, though the mood as been described as “poor” by current employees. Also on the to-do list is restoring profits, which have been on a downward trend, with a projected loss of 2.5 million euros, or about $2.8 million, in 2015 (the first since 2007).

It is a meaningful task, which is perhaps why Ms. Jarrar will not be involved in Lanvin’s men’s wear, now designed by Lucas Ossendrijver. Speaking on the phone, she reiterated her excitement at the opportunity of working with Lanvin’s ateliers, and her admiration for Mr. Elbaz.

“What happened before me, happened before,” Ms. Jarrar said. “Now I am starting my own chapter.”

Her first test will be the Resort 2016 precollection, to be unveiled in Paris in June.



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