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10-04-2009
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Carol Christian Poell 09 Milan
there is a variety of elements in his work, which makes his collection a cohesive complexbecause each of the elements interacts with the others in various ways.
but there should be a starting point. it produces a chain reaction of growth and sometimes branches out like a tree diagram.
it grows to necessarily determine the next move which defines it back more clearly.
like this way apparently it is allowed to expand until the deadline.
so I guess the weight reduction from the previous collection might have led him to minimization this time, or simplification.
maybe this is the original reason for total inevitability of this collection.
to be concrete, the glued hem seen last time had led to "self-edge".
when the point of the glued hem idea was developed further, it was to be more simplified and the answer was selvedge as un ultimate method of dealing with the edges of a garment, since it is done but is natural and simple enough without nothing being done, at the expense of the quadruple fabric needed for completing a self-edge garment.
then the self-edge series was born. shirt, coat, trousers, above all the jacket is nice. it's novel.
also perforations are called selvedge. so the "open seam" developed into "chain seam" that looks like the perforated line between stamps in some way with the heavy thread and wider gap,
which makes the seamed edges of pattern pieces come to light more clearly. he has some confidence in the finish of the edge as well as the line his cut describes.


the sevedge is the other weave pattern of a piece of fabric.
it's the coexistence of two aspects on one thing.
then the minimization was directed toward both unification and disparity.


at first, the unification turned the parts that would normally be separate into one piece:
- "seamless" knit series - evolved from the last spring and woven into the literal shape of "hands-up" or "splits sleeves"
- "no seam" boots
- "no seam triangle cut" oxfords, etc

and it was connected to the abnormal patternmaking with a continuous or elongated nature that is irrespective of the efficiency engineer standpoint,
- "spiral wrap"
- "semi-armhole"
- "splits jeans/trousers", and the like

also it can be seen in the form of a fusion of neighboring items such as:
- socks and shoes ( sort of rubber-soled socks in stretch deer skin with overlock lines in the toe, achilles's tendon, and the top. the details about the rubber sole are mentioned below. though this is a famous story, the stretch leather is something he invented years ago but didn't get a patent for )
- sleeves and gloves
- tops and shorts ( a bit like archaic shirt detail )
- leggings and sockshoes
- coat and scarf, etc.

as details:

- "balaclava high neck"
- "leather wedge goodyear" - the second outsole of leather on the normal leather sole including the heel, therefore its sole is flat, which forms an outline of wedge. maybe a joke on the custom of putting a rubber on a ready-made leather sole. it's funny but I'd say wearable in comparison with other joke pieces.
- "disparate gloves" - whose left hand is constructed in order that the third and little fingers can be snuggled up to each other in one place. there is a silver ring that is made for that intent too.
- "curved pocket" - it's an oneness of inside bag-like part and outside flap, that is, a simple flat bag with the top folded which is fitted into due area of the garment, edged with the "chain seam".


it ended up as uniformity. uniformity of thickness. a garment is structurally uneven in thickness, for instance in the pocket area.
but the area was made to be even with the other area, without any value deducted, through the details like "curved pocket".
as the representative of the collection, the "self-edge chain-seam curved pocket jacket" in matte black "denim" has a flat feel of totally new kind, which helps to create a peculiar minimal atmosphere as a whole while the jacket meets his full specification.
his minimalization does not make any hollow places in his designing.

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Last edited by runner; 10-04-2009 at 01:25 PM.
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10-04-2009
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the way the selvedge and the rest of the fabric are is the state that is ambiguous
as it can be considered as a thing that is incongruous as well as two things that are unified.
naturally he let his inward monomaniac sink in that direction of disparity too.
in its vision there is perhaps something like a shoreline, a vague boundary on earth between water and land,
brought into focus gradually, it's more like a substance that either is freezing or is thawing on the contrary.
then a block of half icy meat in a drip on a hook in a slaughterhouse.
two dirrerent textures, phases of one thing.
blurred interface.
this abstract concept is concretely perceivable in the irregular surface of a piece.

- for example, cordovan that has on one side both reverse texture and obverse texture,
the boots whose suede-like texture turns smoother as it goes further down to the toe.

- the fabric with phase transition, that is, its weave pattern is gradually changed.

- object dipping - products dipped in latex. it almost has the appearance of confectionery topped with icing. but technically in this case confectionery bottomed with icing.
it is representative of not only the process of phase transition but also the unsteady existence of the boundary.
the icing effect is done with leather bags, belts, shoes, socks, jackets, etc. as
- "dip-rubbered" series.
about "dip-rubbered" footwear, part of the point could be another joke as an official rubber put on the leather sole, spiked with hanging stalactites. a wicked kindness since it's all the more difficult to walk ( not a big problem really though, you can cut the spikes ).

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eventually the difference itself began to stand out and caught the inquiring eye and activated its imagination.
and a grown thought can no longer be continued without being embodied.
so it had to be incorporated into the designs that carry disparity ( rather than just asymmetry, maybe ).

- "semi-armhole" - this armhole related to the elements in the previous post as well has the structure consists of curve and straight line. also the arms are set inversely, like one shoulder facing forward while the other facing backward ( there is a simpler version of semi-armhole with shoulders set normally ).
the image would be similar to that of one's motion with the upper part of the body twisted.
and the center back seam line and/or the front opening line are askew, ( which had been called "skewed" in S/S 07 paranoid ).

- "splits jeans/trousers" - of kin to the said armhole. they too imply the image of giving further wrench around the hips. the back is cutting into the front and the front is cutting into the back. the fly set askew is extended to become the oblique 'center' seam on the left leg which parallels the side seam from the left and the back 'center' seam on the raised right leg.
the disparity of right and left as well as back and front is represented by the imbalanced borderlines of the seams.
and the splits design of this acrobatic pair creates some drop crotch effect. there are three variations: "low, middle, and high splits". the height is about the rise and "low splits" takes effect most heavily.

- "splits sleeves" - the sleeve version. the one hand-up design makes a sag under the arm ( "hands-up" available too ).these are some gymnastic interpretations of "paranoid " esque play on shapes/cuts.

- "disparate boots/derbies/oxfords" - a lopsided pair whose left last is funnily wider. not in an extremely obvious way. so might make you grin if noticed.

- "disparate leather gloves" - as mentioned in the post above, only the left glove is four-fingered. three variations: normal style (except the disparate), its open-figertip version, but each finger part is made of the mummified elastic that is used for the usual cuff part of the glove, and the fingerless version with only the opening for each finger left (the left glove's openings/fingerholes are four of course ). also again, as a relative, there is a ∞ silver ring(s), but only the ring for the little finger has a little missing part and a slight opening action ( like the antler action of a stag beetle ). and there are silver chain necklace, bracelet, and ring that consists of the links disparate in diameter and thickness.



finally the working of that mind had to reveal heterogeneousness that is inherent in a piece but is buried in silence. and set it apart.
it was cut into two ( the silver cutter knife necklace ).

- to take an example, the hems of a simple tank top. the parts on the edges of the neckline, side openings, and bottom, colored the same as the main body part.
the hem parts were differentiated from the body, with the perforations-looking gap by "chain-seam" dividing the two things. it's nice. unisex ans simple with that flat minimal feel, but interesting and just easy to wear. it is also provided with the awry center line that gradually makes the cute slight difference between right and left,
as "chain-seam disparate tank top".

- "unconstructed" footwear is another example.
a shoe has a shank that exists in secret. shank is metal. a foreign matter in a shoe.
and the shank was separated from the inside of a shoe and was made to be visible, set on the outsole.

- even the gloved sleeve from the past was disjointed again, and then it was jointed all the way anew. but this time the glove part was set in, not a seamless combination of the glove and sleeve, which delineates a boundary in the wrist and admits the two to be heterogeneous.
this might look more natural than the original model. so maybe easier to wear.



hands-up, splits, and diagonal parallel lines

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10-04-2009
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the aspects of unification and disparity converged on an image of spiral ( helix, strictly speaking ).
spiral looks as if it was sectioned, seen from one standpoint.
it does look like a pile of separate pieces.
but it is a long swirling continuity of one piece.

- "spiral jeans" - not the "twist" just to make sure
- "spiral wrap leather trousers"
- "spiral silver hands rings" , and so on



it's an abnormal devotion for different ways one thing can appear,
often two phases of a thing ( the silver ① coin necklace ),
a substance in a phase transition...in melting or freezing/solidifying ( the presentation in the refrigerator of slaughterhouse ).
but sometimes there is a certain latitude or looseness allowed in interpretation,
as it is typified by vitrification ( the items in fiberglass ) where actually there is not any clear phase change point. besides glass, another substance that has this kind of property is rubber ( the rubber icings ). these substances have a gradual transition between glassy state and rubber plateau.
it's like, while "chain-seam" stands for a boundary between one and another, there is also a backlash / play made by the gap of the "chain-seam" ( the flexibility of the stretch leather, lots of grey shades available as color variation ).

it seems to me that this activity is a means of thinking further rather than an expression of what was thought,
for that mind's own sake, whether its true nature is a paranoid, monomania, scientist, alchemist, fashion designer, tailor, cutter, artisan, or artist.
thinking is a matter of life to the mind.


pics will be up and new arrivals are coming.
until then, since they cannot be pictured by my words, I tried to mainly write down the intangible stuff that random pics or stores' buy might not convey enough, if anyone is interested,
something that makes the scatering elements connected,
even though there had to be descriptions of the pieces to make it as clear as possible
and this is rather a strange start of a thread.





if there is any image that is a dynamic representation of the whole thing, this could be close to it.
( as a narrative interface between liquid and air )

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Last edited by runner; 10-04-2009 at 01:37 PM.
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10-04-2009
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runner, wow. this is going to take many more braincells to soak in then i have right now at the end of the work day.

dying to see the jewelry... the helix, spiral concept sounds good.

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10-04-2009
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really wonderful insight...thank you for sharing this,runner!

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11-04-2009
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runner, this is brilliant.
really appreciate you taking the time to share all of this information.
wow.

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11-04-2009
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certainly seems to be a process-driven designer ^^
one idea leads to another...
and the act of doing, for inspiration

i'm glad to see i can understand the explanations now
now that i have also started some sewing/drafting of my own...
i wonder if people who don't know him can be interested in the clothes. a few times i feel the ideas are a bit like from the 'inside.' like when someone says an 'inside joke', only people in the same field as the person saying the joke could laugh at the joke. reminds me of when i read an architect who designs for architects. architect's architect.

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11-04-2009
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see that's what i feel people miss out on...the dynamics of the actual process. the ideas that regurgitate the layers of making beautiful,creative,well-crafted works. it just shows that for some this is truly a medium.

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11-04-2009
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wow! thanks for that...what an insight!

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13-04-2009
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you're welcome






Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
i'm glad to see i can understand the explanations now
now that i have also started some sewing/drafting of my own...
i wonder if people who don't know him can be interested in the clothes. a few times i feel the ideas are a bit like from the 'inside.' like when someone says an 'inside joke', only people in the same field as the person saying the joke could laugh at the joke. reminds me of when i read an architect who designs for architects. architect's architect.
although actually a certain designer, during its stay over here, was making a mad ccp search, it's not like he designs for designers.

the delight in a work can be increased by good knowledge, but cannot be produced by knowledge.
the delight has to be there by nature,
then, can be perceived by your mind that is opened and the senses that are sharpened.
maybe a work is usually based on this belief or romanticism, whatever it is, archtecture, music...
even if the person who made the work did it for herself/himself,
since we are all sharing basic feelings and some of this universe.

anyway in this case there are lots things his work is trying to reveal, given a chance.

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14-04-2009
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very good insights, indeed. His craftmanship is incomparable so reading about the process is a real eye-opener
Thanks, runner

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27-05-2009
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you're welcome kiddokiddo



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27-05-2009
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that leather knit combination... possibly the most sublime, and proportionally perfect silhouette I have ever seen. so pleasing to my eye.

i love how he defines the male figure; so precise, very gentle but still masculine.

thank you runner.

not convinced on those shoes.

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29-05-2009
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^ you're welcome


one more from mattotti.co.jp
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29-05-2009
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is the slaughter-house venue his showroom in milano? it's like the front page of his web site.

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