How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
01-10-2012
  76
V.I.P.
 
Not Plain Jane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Canada
Gender: femme
Posts: 10,613
Quote:
SEPTEMBER 30, 2012
PARIS
By Jo-Ann Furniss

Once, you worried for the Céline woman. She would stand there perfectly put-together—you imagined she never sat, that would be too undisciplined and unruly, and it would ruin the line of her clothes. She was anxious for the world to see how brilliant she was; yes, she knew about Bauhaus, both the movement and the band, in depth—had you not seen the color-blocking on her coat or her perfectly manicured iPod? It seemed she existed in a white box, not in the more rococo confines of Avenue Foch. Unlike Fragonard's lady in The Swing, she would not be showing her knickers anytime soon.

Really, there was nothing to worry about. The Céline woman who emerged at that Avenue Foch venue today was somewhat different: stylish, yet slovenly even, elegant in a dishabille way. Yes, you could imagine her sitting down; in fact, you could imagine her sprawled out on a couch. And the Céline woman was all the better for it.

A mood of looseness (in both senses of the term) and ease has been permeating many of the shows this season. And yet how the designer Phoebe Philo handled it was distinctly her own. As much was apparent as the first silhouette emerged, black, slightly oversize, trousers slightly half mast, not too perfect. And then there were the shoes: black fur-lined sandals in a Birkenstock vein, and that fur looked like mink with the models' glossy red toenails nestled in it. Perverse, like Méret Oppenheim's furry teacup. The track to accompany all of this? Depeche Mode's "Useless."

The shoes were key to this collection: furry, witty, unhinged. In a mostly black and white offering, they disrupted any notion of sobriety. Predominantly flat—yet with some also rather remarkable fur-covered stilettos—they were fuzzy flashes of color, fun, and oddness.

As for the clothes, there was something unfinished in those raw edges, or the backs of tops with excess material, or the unfinished seams; there was also a nod to Belgian deconstruction of the nineties. The slouchy, flat-front trousers with their crotches carelessly low, the trenchcoats slung over short dresses with full furry slippers—there was something of the walk of shame about the lot, as well as the nineties up-all-night attitude, when Helmut Lang clothes would be flashed and trashed in clubs. And yet it all really felt like Céline and Phoebe Philo.

Unlike most, this reviewer never imagined Philo as the Céline woman—well, who really could be? She was just so perfect, and not all authors of novels are their characters in any case. The designer had concocted an extreme and immaculate character for her collections, somebody to aspire to for her audience. Yet today she added a new chapter to her story, and it was one you couldn't help but think had sprung from real life. Philo defined her collection as being about "togetherness, beauty, friendship, and a journey." In this journey the Céline woman was humanized. For this viewer, it was the most compelling Céline collection yet.
style.com

__________________
Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
  Reply With Quote
 
01-10-2012
  77
V.I.P.
 
BerlinRocks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MilkyWay-Pluto-Earth
Gender: homme
Posts: 10,990
Luxurious artic Spa flipflop at Céline ? Nice move ...
Im sure we'll see a lot for casual errands at the grocery ...

I like thos heels that look like your foot is naked ! Feels a bit like Margiela in the early nineties. Or at least something he could do ... It's also something I feel is very surrealist 1930s. Sure those ones, though, will be in a LOT of editorials (better than the Birkenstock if you have to put Celine shoes in the editorials) ... And the furry shoes, too ... Very good to shoot a naked portrait, or to wear with casual jeans and a silk white shirt ...

But seriously I've been very distracted by the shoes ... So I hadn't seen the collection actually ... It's very comfy, isn't it ?

  Reply With Quote
01-10-2012
  78
fashion insider
 
jemina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,374
This shoes looks like chicken to me.

I probably won't remember anything else from this collection because I was so focus on this hideous shoes.

  Reply With Quote
01-10-2012
  79
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,803
I miss the 2010/2011 Celine, this is a hot mess, the Resort 2013 collection is VASTLY superior to this.

  Reply With Quote
01-10-2012
  80
MON
V.I.P.
 
MON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Philippines
Gender: homme
Posts: 6,165
Better than last season. But it`s still missing that spark.


Those shoes....

__________________
TWITTER: @mondimac | INSTAGRAM: @mondimac
  Reply With Quote
01-10-2012
  81
rising star
 
ogepma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: London
Gender: homme
Posts: 168
I think this is her weakest collection for Celine. I really loved the tailored pieces but I those draped/twisted numbers looked forced and pretentious to me. It looked like she had run out of ideas. And this also felt like a double dose of minimalism (its simplicity was a bit to aggressive, if that makes sense ). It was an ok collection for me. As for those shoes, as hideous as they may be, the sure look very comfortable!

  Reply With Quote
02-10-2012
  82
Geometric Discharge
 
Crying Diamonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: London
Gender: homme
Posts: 7,196
Admittedly, all of the pieces that incorporate that draped 'tied in a knot' look I despise.. but this is probably due to my fashion control freak nature, as is evident with my love for the exquisite tailoring also in this collection.
I agree with ogepma with thinking this is her weakest collection, due to the lack of desireable, or at least with what has been expected of Celine, trendsetting pieces. The drape and the net make the collection bad, the net looks cheap and poorly done especially in that plunging neck dress.
The shoes are the weakest part unfortunately, as much as I love Schiaparelli-esque shoes I hate the idea of Philo giving in to gimmicks, and she needn't! I imagine her designs sell incredibly well and they're never boring, so why did she need red mink shoes?
I think the redeeming factor was the fabric; could she have chosen a much more luxurious type of silk? It actually glimmered.. and when it wrapped together and tied around a neck it had that expensive weight of the silk used to make an Hermes scarf. If I go to Harrods this season I'll be visiting Celine to feel the fabric, not to be inspired by the designs, unfortunately.

  Reply With Quote
02-10-2012
  83
backstage pass
 
Shiru's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Gender: femme
Posts: 696
I'd buy some of those furry sandals and wear them with my pajamas or bathrobe at home...
But I'd pass on the rest of the collection.


Last edited by Shiru; 02-10-2012 at 03:47 PM.
  Reply With Quote
02-10-2012
  84
backstage pass
 
Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: london
Gender: homme
Posts: 514
@ # 76 thanks NPJ for posting Jo-Ann Furniss's excellent review. It seems Style.com have found themselves another decent writer besides Tim Blanks.

Re the footwear it was interesting to see mention of Muret Oppenheim. I went there last season regards Viktor&Rolf but the comparison is more on point in relation to shoes given their symbolism stretching back I suspect to Chaucerian bawdy. 'Cups' these days are of course generally presented sans 'fur' but the symbolism remains - applying fur connotes animalistic sexuality. So these are spa shoes sexualised. And I've already noted @ Prada and Rick Owens this season sexual references to Spa's. It's a confluence of the water/liquidshine materials trend and the movement toward eastern mysticism/spiritualism. These are Tantric Spa shoes.

I agree with Jo-Ann that the Celine woman having found a new ease is welcome. The have-it-all strictness of the Celine formulation now passed is an illusion. A stressful illusion. Relax already.

But not just deshabille, japonisme/eastern deshabille. Philo identified a knottedness at three of the Major Chakra - the throat chakra, the heart chakra and the root chakra. The vascillating dialogue between knottedness and being open at the heart - those deep decolettes of mesh - concluded @ #31 in knottedness. Still work to be done in moving from uptight fierceness to sweetness.

And how looks #3 and #5 sleeveless coatdresses resembled those of Prada's last season. Which observation stands not as critique but as flagging up a dialogue, a sharing of sensibility and message. For, eschewing retro, it's 60's or 90's incarnation, it's not a far step to stride (in fur infused spa shoe) from minimalism, via asceticism, to spiritualism.

Save that this is a movement (more than a trend, a movement) in which spiritual enlightenment and bodily pleasure arrive as one. Seek not power but bliss.

That which is waning is the particularly western form of sexual practise/style bound up with competitiveness and characterised by BDSM. That which is rising is tantric sex and spiritual awakening. A move from hate and hit to caress and cares. No longer knottedness nor ties that bind, no longer fierceness, but an openess to a new sweetness of heart.

  Reply With Quote
02-10-2012
  85
front row
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 261
I'm not sure about spas and chakras (or the subtle hints at, ugh, Fifty Shades of Gray). The footwear just seemed like an inverted notion of bedroom slippers, especially since this collection was slouchier, looser, more relaxed and carefree compared to the more meticulous and precise lines in her previous work. It's just an organic response to this idea of comfort. I think MulletProof and NotPlainJane are very much on point with regards to this season. Many seemingly "comfortable" collections forget to take into account the discomfort of their footwear, so the texture and softness of the fur here makes sense. That said, it's still very unattractive footwear and could have used some more design finesse.

This looks like it will be better in retail, but I think it's a solid collection nonetheless. I like the play with volume, texture, and fabric. This is an interesting reconfiguration of the shapes and silhouette she had already established for the house. The clothes here seem to breathe easier, and in turn allow the body to breathe, too.


Last edited by Uemarasan; 02-10-2012 at 06:32 PM.
  Reply With Quote
02-10-2012
  86
windowshopping
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Gender: femme
Posts: 35
Not Phoebe Philo's most directional collection for Céline IMO but certainly beautiful nonetheless. However, the shoes are simply heinous (but I'm sure they will be street style sensations.)

  Reply With Quote
06-10-2012
  87
backstage pass
 
shutterbug's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Vancouver
Gender: femme
Posts: 867
I see what she did there. Creating shoes so strange that I've been converted into thinking that Birkenstocks might not be such a bad idea in comparison. I envision them paired with loose pants and button up shirts. Thanks Phoebe for making it acceptable to be just a little less uptight.

__________________
[Pinterest]
  Reply With Quote
10-10-2012
  88
backstage pass
 
Phuel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Canada
Gender: homme
Posts: 728
Those shoes really are such a huge f*** you statement. I like it.

Phoebe's getting exactly the reaction she wants for putting those footwear out there. They're never going to see the light of day outside the show and editorials, so why the huge fuss...? But for those that must have it-- for whatever reason-- and if your feet never sweat, I'm sure they're available. I think they add a nice dose of decadence, frivolity and madness-- and just the right ugliness to the insanely luxurious and proper image of Celine.

I'm glad it's not all no-nonsense, strict, and wearability with Celine. Miuccia must be fuming it wasn't her and her team that put these furry footwear out there first.

  Reply With Quote
10-10-2012
  89
tfs star
 
GivenchyHomme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phuel View Post

I'm glad it's not all no-nonsense, strict, and wearability with Celine. Miuccia must be fuming it wasn't her and her team that put these furry footwear out there first.
I don't think you can really compare furry shoes to giant geisha platforms. It's kind of hard to top that kind of ugliness.

  Reply With Quote
10-10-2012
  90
tfs star
 
miguelalmeida's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lisbon
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,752
Usually she does collections that are very minimal and graphic with pop's of color, last season she put out a stellar collection. In this collections she put aside the graphic that was key (I think so) in her collections and played a lot with volume in a weird way, thoose knots in some models chests are very weird...really really weird
But the cool, easy and very intelectual spirit of the colothes is still there, but this collection needed something more to make a buzz and create excitement, other than the crazy cool shoes wich are pretty extraordinary

__________________
NATASHA POLY SASHAPIVOVAROVA MARIACARLABOSCONO JOANSMALLS LARASTONE AYMELINEVALADE NADJABENDER DARIAWERBOWY ANDREEADIACONU ANNAEWERS SORRENTI SIMS SUNDSBØ INES&VINOODH MERT&MARCUS ÅKRANS VANDERPERRE
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
2013, celine, paris, s or s
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:57 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.