Chalayan Mens S/S 2015 Capsule Collection - the Fashion Spot
 
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28-06-2014
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Chalayan Mens S/S 2015 Capsule Collection


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CHALAYAN MAN S/S 2015
MOOR’S CHORUS

Quote:
Chalayan introduces a men’s capsule collection of 22 styles for Spring/Summer 2015.

The collection consists of Moorish inspired weaves and jacquard patterns in light fresh colours seen in form of blousons, jackets, trousers, shorts and layered shirts providing rich ingredients for extensive texture mixing.

Prints are inspired by the idea of the “gaze” in Moorish environments where secret zones are looked at through apertures, in this instance revealing budding courgette flowers or hidden riad courtyards revealing shadows of tangerine trees on tiled floors. Another pivotal print is a display of tangerine trees themselves lined up in a Moorish water irrigation grid inspired by the church courtyards of buildings that were once mosques.

The collection is mainly smart/casual, with a minimal feel, whilst providing many ingredients for a more playful mix with prints and lightweight transparent fabrics.

The Chalayan man is someone who has a diverse range of interests and knows how to dress for the occasion but follows no particular rules.

The collection is conceived with a spirit of innovation, practicality and precision cutting combined with a sense of playfulness, inviting a variety of customer who can pick and choose to make the collection their own.
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28-06-2014
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The last three looks are very interesting

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28-06-2014
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I miss the overly-complicated, highly- conceptual, deadly-serious, even OTT-pretentiousness of his early collections for women. I think Hussein has missed the wave for so many seasons with his womenswear currently, and now this... This, is just so-- Sears. The colors, the cut, the styling-- complete with sunglasses, because sunglasses means spring, is frighteningly Sears-geezer. I don't get it.

The only high-fashion design element implemented are already done-- and to much stronger effect, by other designers: The shirt/jacket that transforms into the illusion of a shirt/ jacket that is wrapped around the waist was often used by Gaultier for men's, and even Tisci reintroduced it in his menswear, and in a much more interest fashion, than here. The jacket that transforms into a self-hanging piece off the wearer's back, resembling a backpack is such a distinctive design element from Helmut Lang, that here, it feels like a blatant rip-off.

Is Hussein paying homage to these designers? Is he being ironic by combining the definition of pedestrian clothes that is Sears with the innovation of visionary designers like Gaultier and Helmut...?

I really don't get it-- or the need for Chalayan menswear. At its very best, this looks like a student collection.

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28-06-2014
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i dunno....if you remember his previous menswear project some years ago it was similar in vein....very simple and accessible on the fore but up close and underneath it all,retained a lot of his technical and esoteric sensibilities. maybe this isn't quite on par with those collections but i do kind of enjoy this...i think i would wear much of this myself. also,i would love to see how he expands into autumn.

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31-07-2014
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HQs



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31-07-2014
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JUNE 26, 2014
LONDON
By Tim Blanks

Quote:
After a hiatus of some years, Hussein Chalayan's menswear is back by popular demand—and how we've missed it. Necessarily simpler than his womenswear, this collection still managed to reflect the same quirky sensuality as the Resort lineup that the designer was showing simultaneously: the same Moorish-tinged patterns, the same print of water irrigation systems, all looking leisure-like in short-sleeve shirts and Bermuda shorts. The pieces had the vague feel of the fifties that subtly infused Chalayan's resortwear.

Chalayan doesn't like men to wear "designed" clothes, so his focus here was on fabric and classic cut. But that doesn't mean he restrained himself from quintessential Chalayan-isms like the Transformer pieces: a shirt that turned itself inside out and elongated down around the waist, almost like a tribal skirt, or a smartly tailored black jacket with a white shirt stitched inside, which shrugged off to become something cape-like. Both items sound furiously designed, but their technical acuity saved them. The designer insisted they were very much part of the collection, and not the kind of showpieces his fans relish.
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04-08-2014
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i know several men who would love to be able to shrug off their suit jacket during the summer months...
it's a hugely practical thing as well as an interesting design idea...

these look like they are immaculately cut and constructed...

not a lot of gimmicks- just lovely menswear...
i like it...

the colours and fabrics feel very fresh and cooling for warm weather...

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Last edited by softgrey; 04-08-2014 at 03:41 PM.
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05-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey View Post
i know several men who would love to be able to shrug off their suit jacket during the summer months...
it's a hugely practical thing as well as an interesting design idea...

these look like they are immaculately cut and constructed...

not a lot of gimmicks- just lovely menswear...
i like it...

the colours and fabrics feel very fresh and cooling for warm weather...
A nice idea in theory but how the hell would you clean your poplin shirt after you've sweated in it for a good while? You possibly wouldn't want to dry clean your suit every time you wear it out, just because the shirt it comes with is not separable after all.

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06-08-2014
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Hmm- good point you have there tric!

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07-08-2014
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I'd hope it was detachable in some way, because outside of having to get the thing cleaned constantly, ironing that sounds like a nightmare.

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09-08-2014
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that's what chalayan renounced and what he decided.
it's not like he forgot about the skin and its metabolism.

although I guess it could still be something like a detachable lining which is extended into the shirt, even if it's really all stitched for a certain reason we cannot see from the pics at this moment, there should be places where that kind of crazy decision cannot be a big problem. for example it's tokyo. there are not a few people who keep the spirit called iki there ( wikipedia's explanation of the term doesn't help enough here. please check shuzo kuki's the structure of iki, if anyone is interested ).

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26-09-2014
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S/S 15 Women's Show



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